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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  fo    Historical  Microreproductions  /  institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


WrS 


* 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming,  features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  ure  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  tui  a  dt6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagee 

□    Cov 
Cou 


n 


□ 


Covv-rs  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
verture  restaur^e  et/ou  pelliculde 


I       I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


□    Coloured  maps/ 
Carte: 


rtes  g^ographiquus  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noi^e} 

□    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

[      I    Bound  with  other  material/ 
I — I    Relie  avec  d'autres  documents 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliura  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
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II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  iestaurat*on  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentairas  suppl6mentaires: 


\ 


D 
D 

□ 


D 


./ 


D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  fo.ned/ 
Pages  ddcolor^i^s,  tachet^es  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  detachees 

Showthroi-gh/ 
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Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  inegale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  fauillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fagon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


_ 

y/ 

12X 


16X 


2ax 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  filrn^  fut  reproduit  gr^ca  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


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possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
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filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  rep'oduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  f?  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copiss  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exomplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soil  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commengant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  cc  mporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminnnt  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning   "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernii^re  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
reqi'^red.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film^s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  lo  document  est  trop  grand  pour  §tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  ciich6,  il  est  film^  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droits, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

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B- 


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LEAVES 

FROM  THE  JOURNAL 


OF 


OUR  LIFE  m  the  HIGHLANDS, 

FROM  1848  TO  1861. 
ro  w„,c„  «.  p,..„,,  ,,„  ,„^^„  ^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^ 

JOURNAL  GIVING  AN  ACCOUNT  OF 
EARLIER    VISITS    TO    SCOTLAND. 
AND   TOURS    IN    ENGLAND    AND    IRELAND, 


AND 


VACHTING    EXCURSION! 


EDITED  BY  ARTHUR  HELPS. 


^^fV    YORK: 
HARPER.    BROTHERS.    PUBLISHERS 
TORONTO:    W.    c.    CHEWETT    &    cO 
1868. 


2734 


New  Edition  just  ready.     i2»io,  Cloth,  $2  00.     IVit/i  Portraits. 
Uniform  with  this  Volume. 


QUEEN  VICTORIA'S.  MEMOIR 

OF  THE 

PRINCE  CONSORT. 

The  Early  Years  of  His  Royal  Highness  the  Prince  Consort. 
Compiled,  under  the  Direction  of  Her  Majesty  the 
Queen,  by  Lieutenant-  General  the  Hon.  C.  Grey.  Two 
Portraits  on  Steel. 

A  very  extraordinary  record. — London  Revieiv. 
A  mute  appeal  to  our  better  nature. — Fraser''  Magazine. 

It  were  well  that  it  should  enter  into  every  household  in  England  and  America,  as  an 
example  of  goodness  and  of  stainless  hqnor. — Home  yourtial. 
A  unique  book  in  literary  history. — Round  Table. 

Published  by  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  New  York. 

B^r'  Sent  by  Mail,  postage  prepaid,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States,  on  receij>t 

0/  $2  00, 


TO 


THE  DEAR  MEMORY  OF  HIM 


WHO  MADE  THE  L,KE  OF  THE  WRITER   BRIGHT  AND  HAPPV, 


THESE   SIMPLE  RECORDS 


ARE  LOVINGLY  AND  GRATEFULLY  INSCRIBED. 


EDITOR'S  PREFACE.   • 


'  A 


The  circumstances  winch  liave  led  to  the  publi- 
cation of  this  volume  are  briefly  these.    « 

During  one  of  the  Editor's  official  visits  to  Bal- 
moral, her  Majesty  very  kindly  allowed  h^m  to  see 
several  extracts  from  her  journal  relating  to  excur- 
sions in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland.  He  was  much 
interested  by  them,  and  expressed  the  interest 
which  he  felt.  It  then  occurred  to  her  Majesty 
that  these  extracts,  referring,  as  they  did,  to  some 
of  the  happiest  hours  of  her  life,  might  be  made 
into  a  book,  to  be  printed  privately,  for  presenta- 
tion to  members  of  the  Royal  Family  and  her  Maj- 
esty's intimate  friends,  especially  to  those  who  had 
accompanied  and  attended  her  in  these  tours. 

It  was  then  suggested  to  her  Majesty  by  some 
persons,  among  them  a  near  and  dear  relative  of 
the  Queen,  and  afterward  by  the  Editor,  that  this 
work,  if  made  known  to  Others,  would  be  very  in- 
teresting to  them  as  well  as  to  the  Royal  Family 
and  to  her  Majesty's  intimate  friends.  The  Queen, 
however,  said  that  she  had  no  skill  whatever  in 


f 


VI 


Editor's  Preface. 


authorship ;  that  these  were,  for  the  most  part, 
mere  homely  accounts  of  excursions  near  home; 
and  that  she  felt  extremely  reluctant  to  publish 
any  thing  written  by  herself. 

To  this  the  Editor  respectfully  replied  that,  if 
printed  at  all,  however  limited  the  impressioi:,  and 
however  careful  the  selection  of  persons  to  whom 
copies  might  be  given,  some  portions  of  the  vol- 
vume,  or  quite  as  probably  incorrect  impressions 
of  its  contents,  might  find  their  way  into  the  pub- 
lic journals.  It  would  therefore,  he  thought,  be 
better  at  once  to  place  the  volume  within  the 
reach  of  her  Majesty's  subjects,  who  would,  no 
doubt,  derive  from  it  pleasure  similar  to  that 
which  it  had  afforded  to  the  Editor  himself 
Moreover,  it  would  be  very  gratifying  to  her  sub- 
jects, who  had  always  shown  a  sincere  and  ready 
sympathy  with  the  personal  joys  and  sorrows  of 
their  Sovereign,  to  be  allowed  to  know  how  her 
rare  moments  of  leisure  were  passed  in  her  High- 
land home,  when  every  joy  was  heightened,  and 
every  care  and  sorrow  diminished,  by  the  loving 
companionship  of  the  Prince  Consort.  With  his 
memory  the  scenes  to  which  this  volume  refers 
would  always  be  associated. 

Upon  these  considerations  her  Majesty  eventu- 
ally consented  to  its  publication. 


t 


Editor's  Preface. 


Vll 


While  the  book  was  being  printed,  the  Editor 
suggested  that  It  would  gain  in  interest  if  other 
extracts  were  added  to  it,  describing  her  Majesty's 
progresses  in  England,  Ireland,  and  the  Channel 
Islands. 

The  Queen  was  pleased  to  assent,  and  the  addi- 
tions were  accordingly  made. 

It  will  easily  be  seen  that  this  little  work  does 
not  make  any  pretension  to  be  more  than  such  a 
record  of  the  impressions  received  by  the  Royal  Au- 
thor in  the  course  of  these  journeys  as  might  here- 
after serve .  to  recall  to  her  own  mind  the  scenes 
and  circumstances  which  had  been  the  source  of 
so  much  pLasure.  All  references  to  political  ques- 
tions, or  to  the  affairs  of  government,  have,  for  ob- 
vious reasons,  been  studiously  omitted.  The  book 
is  mainly  confined  to  the  natural  expressions  of  a 
mind  rejoicing  in  the  beauties  of  natiu'e,and  throw- 
ing itself,  with  a  delight  rendered  keener  by  the 
rarity  of  its  opportunities,  into  the  enjoyment  of  a 
life  removed,  for  the  moment,  from  the  pressure  of 
public  cares. 


It  would  not  be  becoming  in  the  Editor  to 
dwell  largely  upon  the  merits  of  this  work.  He 
may,  however,  allude  to  the  picturesque  descrip- 


Vlll 


Editor's  Preface. 


tions  of  scenery  in  which  the  work  abounds ;  to 
the  simplicity  of  diction  throughout  it ;  and  to  tue 
perfect  faithfulness  of  narration  which  is  one  of  its 
chief  characteristics ;  for  in  every  page  the  writer 
describes  what  she  thinks  and  feels,  rather  than 
what  she  might  be  expected  to  think  and  feel. 

Moreover,  he  may  point  out  the  willingness  to 
be  pleased,  upon  which  so  much  of  the  enjoyment 
of  any  tour  depends ;  and  also  the  exceeding  kind- 
liness of  feeling — the  gratitude  even — with  which 
the  Royal  Tourists  recognize  any  attention  paid  to 
them,  or  any  manifestation  of  the  cordial  attach- 
ment felt  toward  them,  by  any  of  her  Majesty's 
subjects,  from  the  highest  to  the  humblest,  whom 
they  happen  to  meet  with  in  the  course  of  their 
journeys. 


The  Editor  thinks  that  he  should  not  be  doing 
justice  to  the  Royal  Author's  book — not  doing 
what,  if  it  were  any  other  person's  work  which 
was  intrusted  to  his  editing,  he  should  do — if  he 
Avere  to  forbear  giving  utterance  to  the  thoughts 
which  occurred  to  him  in  reference  to  the  notes 
to  the  volume. 

These  notes,  besides  indicating  that  peculiar 
memory  for  persons,  and  that  recognition  of  per- 
sonal attachment  which  have  been  very  noticeable 


JEdiior^s  Preface. 


IX 


in  our  sovereigns,  illustrate,  in  a  striking  manner, 
the  patriarchal  feeling  (if  one  may  apply  such  a 
word  as  "patriarchal"  to  a  lady)  which  is  so 
strong  in  the  present  occupant  of  the  throne. 
Perhaps  there  is  no  person  in  these  realms  who 
takes  a  more  deep  and  abiding  interest  in  the 
welfare  of  the  household  committed  to  his  charge 
than  our  gracious  Queen  does  in  hers,  or  who  feels 
more  keenly  what  are  the  reciprocal  duties  of 
masters  and  servants. 

Nor  does  any  one  wish  more  ardently  than  her 
Majesty  that  there  should  be  no  abrupt  severance 
of  class  from  class,  but  rather  a  gradual  blending 
together  of  all  classes,  caused  by  a  full  community 
of  interests,  a  constant  interchange  of  good  offices, 
and  a  kindly  respect  felt  and  expressed  by  each 
class  to  all  its  brethren  in  the  great  brotherhood 
that  forms  a  nation.  ♦ 

Those  whose  duty  it  has  been  to  attend  upon 
the  Queen  in  matters  of  business  must  have  no- 
ticed that  her  Majesty,  as  a  person  well  versed  in 
the  conduct  of  affairs,  is  wont  to  keep  closely  to 
the  point  at  issue,  and  to  speak  of  nothing  but 
what  is  directly  connected  with  the  matter  before 
her.  But  whenever  there  is  an  exception  to  this 
rule,  it  arises  from  her  Majesty's  anxious  desire  to 
make  some  inquiry  about  the  welfare  of  her  sub- 

A2 


f 


'I 


I'- 


X  Editor's  Preface. 

jects — to  express  her  sympathy  with  this  man's 
sorrow,  or  on  that  man's  bereavement — to  ask 
what  is  the  latest  intelligence  about  this  disaster, 
or  that  suffering,  and  what  can  be  done  to  remedy 
or  assuage  it — thus  showing,  unconsciously,  that 
she  is,  indeed,  the  Mother  of  her  People,  taking 
the  deepest  interest  in  all  that  concerns  them, 
without  respect  of  persons,  from  the  highest  to 
the  lowest. 

The  Editor  thinks  that  one  point  of  interest 
which  will  incidentally  be  disclosed  by  this  pub- 
lication is  the  aspect  of  the  Court  in  these  our 
times.  What  would  not  the  historian  give  to 
have  similar  materials  within  his  reach  when 
writing  about  the  reigns  of  the  great  Queen  Eliz- 
abeth or  the  good  Queen  Anne  ?  There  is  always 
something  in  the  present  which  has  the  appear- 
ance of  being  trivial  and  prosaic;  but  the  future 
historian  will  delight  in  having  details  before  him 
furnished  by  this  book  and  by  the  Life  of  the 
Prince  Consort,*  which  will  enable  him  fully  to 
describe  the  reign  of  Victoria,  and  justly  to  appre- 

*  A  work  which  has  met  with  a  very  cordial  reception 
from  the  public,  and  which,  from  what  the  Editor  has  seen, 
will  not  by  any  means  diminish  in  interest  as  it  proceeds 
to  describe  the  full  and  busy  life  of  the  Prince  as  a  man. 


m 


Edilor^s  Preface. 


XI 


ciate  the  private  life  of  a  Sovereign  whose  public 
life  will  enter  so  largely  into  the  annals  of  the 
nineteenth  century. 

One  more  remark  the  Editor  can  not  refrain 
from  making,  namely,  that  it  is  evident  that  her 
Majesty  never  takes  for  granted  the  services  and 
attentions  which  are  rendered  to  her,  and  which 
we  all  know  would  be  rendered  to  her  from  duti- 
ful respect  and  regard,  but  views  them  as  especial 
kindnesses  shown  to  herself,  and  to  which  she 
makes  no  claim  whatever  from  her  exalted  posi- 
tion as  a  Sovereign. 

This  latter  trait,  very  characteristic  of  the  Koyal 
x\uthor,  gives,  throughout,  an  additional  charm  to 
the  book,  which,  on  that  account  alone,  and  apart 
even  from  its  many  other  merits,  will,  the  Editor 
doubts  not,  be  gratefully  and  affectionately  wel- 
comed by  the  public. 

London,  e/anwary,  1868. 


■   iS:T|-a,j>Mi.-tfi^-^,^;.»M|Wi"iri1^ 


CONTENTS. 


Earlier  Visits  to  Scotlakd. 


DATE. 


PAOK 

17 


First  Visit  to  Scotland 29  Aug.  1842  

Visit  to  Blair  Athole 9  Sept.  1844  r>&. 

Tour  round  the  West  Coast  of  Scotland  and 

Visit  to  Ardverikie 11  Aug.  1847  7G 


Life  in  the  Highlands,  1848-1861. 

First  Impressions  of  Balmoral 

First  Ascent  of  Loch-na-Gar 

A  "Drive"  in  the  Balloch  Buie 

The  First  Stay  at  Alt-na-Giuthasach 

A  Beat  in  the  Abergeldie  Woods 

Visit  to  the  Dhu  Loch,  etc 

Ascent  of  Ben-na-Bhourd 

The  Gathering 

Salmon  Leistering 

Loch  Muich 

Torch-light  Ball  at  Corriemulzie 

Account  of  the  News  of  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton's Death 

Building  the  Cairn  on  Craig  Gowan,  etc 

Laying  the  Foundation-stone  of  our  New  House 

The  Kirk 

Arrival  at  the  New  Castle  at  Balmoral 

Impressions  of  the  New  Castle 

News  of  the  Fall  of  Sevastopol 

The  Betrothal  of  the  Princess  Roval 


8  Sept.  1848  .... 

..  105 

IGSept.  1848  .... 

..  107 

18  Sept.  1848  .... 

..  Ill 

30  Aug.  1849  .... 

..  113 

3  Sept.  1849  .... 

..  116 

11  Sept.  1849  .... 

..  118 

6  Sep^  1850  .... 

..  121 

12  Sept.  1850  .... 

..  123 

13  Sept.  18.50  .... 

..  125 

IG  Sept.  18.50  .... 

..  128 

10  Sept.  1852  .... 

..  130 

IGSept.  18.52  ... 

..  132 

11  Oct.  1852  ... 

..  136 

28  Sept.  18.53  .... 

..  141 

29  Oct.  1854  ... 

..  143 

7  Sept.  1855  ... 

..  144 

8  Sept.  18.55  ..: 

..  145 

10  Sept.  18.55  ... 

..  146 

29  Sept.  1855  ... 

..  148 

..4'**' 


XIV 


Contents 


m  '. 


The  Kirk 

Finding  the  Old  Castle  gone 

Gardens,  etc.,  round  the  New  Castle 

Love  for  Balmoral 

Opening  of  the  New  Bridge  over  the  Linn  of 

Dee 

Visits  to  the  Old  Women 

Visit  to  the  Prince's  Encampment  at  Feithort 

A  Fall  of  Snor.' 

A  scent  of  Morven 

The  Prince's  Return  from  Aberdeen 

Fete  to  the  Members  of  the  British  Association 

Expedition  to  Inchrory 

Ascent  of  Ben  Mulch  Dhui 

First  great  Expedition — To  Glen  Fishie  and 

Granto^vn 

Second  great  Expedition — To  Invermark  and 

Fettercaim 

Expedition  to  Loch  Avon 

Third  great   Expedition  —  To   Glen   Fishie, 

Dalwhiiiiiie,  and  Blair  Athole 

Last  Expedition 


DATE.  PAGE 

U  Oct.   1855  149 

30  Aug.  1856  150 

HI  Aug.  1856  150 

13  Oct.    1856  151 

8  Sept.  1857  152 

26  Sept.  1857  153 

6  Oct.  1857  155 

18  Sept.  1858  157 

14  Sept.  1859  162 

15  Sept.  1859  164 

22  Sept.  1859  164 

30  Sept.  1859  168 

7  Oct.  1859  171 

4  Sept.  l^iGO  175 

20  Sept.  1861  188 

28  Sept.  1861  200 

8  Oct.  1861  203 

16  Oct.  1861  217 


Tours  in  England  and  Ireland,  and  Yachting  Excursions. 

First  Visit  to  Ireland 2  Aug.  1849  227 

Yachting  Excursion 20  Aug.  1846  256 

Second  Yachting  Excursion 2  Sept.  1846  267 

\  isit  to  the  Lakes  of  Killarney 27  Aug.  1861  .282 


Directions  to  the  Binder. 

Balmoral  Castle  from  the  Southeast •> 

Balmorri  Castle  from  the  Northwest /  Frontispiece. 


PAOE 

149 
150 
150 
151 


152 

153 

155 

157 

1G2 

164 

164 

168 

171 


17^ 


188 
200 


203 


EARLIER   VISITS   TO   SCOTLAND. 


First  Visit  to  Scotland. 


} 


On  Board  the  Royal  Geor'ge  Yacht, 
Monday,  August  29, 1842. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  moruing  we  left  Windsor 
for  the  railroad,  the  Duchess  of  Norfolk,  Miss  Ma- 
tilda Paget,  General  Wemyss,  Colonel  Bouverie, 
and  Mr.  Anson  following  us.  Lord  Liverpool, 
Lord  Morton,  and  Sir  James  Clark,  who  also  ac- 
company us,  had  already  gone  on  to  Woolwich. 

We  reached  London  at  a  quarter  to  six,  got 
into  our  carriages,  and  arrived  at  Woolwich  before 
seven.  Albert  and  I  iramv^diately  stepped  into 
our  barge.  There  was  a  large  crowd  to  see  us 
embark.  The  Duke  of  Cambridge,  Lord  Jersey, 
Lord  Haddington,  Lord  Bloomfield,  and  Sir 
George  Cockburn  were  present  in  full  uniform. 
Sir  George  handed  me  into  the  barge.  It  was 
raining  very  hard  when  we  got  on  board,  and 
therefore  we  remained  in  our  sitting-room. 

I  annex  a  list  of  our  squadron : 


li    I 


18 


Life  in  the  Hiyhlands. 


1.  The  Bhip  "Pi(iue,"  80  guns. 

2.  The  sloop  "Daphne,"  18  guns  — (both  of 
which  join  us  at  the  Nore),  ' 

3.  Tlie  steam  vessel  "Salamander"  (with  the 
carriages  on  board). 

4.  The  steam  vessel  "  Rhadamanthus"  (Lord 
Liverpool  and  Lord  Morton  on  board). 

5.  The  steam  vessel  "  Monkey"  Tender,  which 
has  towed  us  till  nine  o'clock  (Mr.  Anson  and  the 
equerries  on  board). 

6.  The  steam  vessel  "Shearwater,"  which  is 
now  towing  us  (Sir  James  Clark  on  board). 

7.  The  steam  vessel  "  Black  Eagle"  (which  has 
the  ladies  on  board,  and  which  tows  us  in  front 
of  the  "  Shearwater"). 

8.  The  steam  vessel  "Lightning"  (with  the 
Jager  Benda,  and  our  two  dogs, "  Eos"  and  "  Cair- 
nach,"  on  board)  in  front,  which  has  gone  to  take 
our  barge  on  board  from  the  "  Pique." 

9.  The  steam  vessel "  Fearless"  (for  survey). 
This  composes  our  squadron,  besides  which  the 

Trinity-House  steamer  goes  with  us,  and  also  a 
packet.  Innumeidble  little  pleasure  steam-boats 
have  been  following  lis  covered  with  people. 


Life  in  the  JJiyhlunda. 


iy 


Tuesday^  August  30. 
We  heard,  to  our  great  distress,  that  we  had 
only  gone  58  miles  since  eight  o'clock  last  night. 
How  annoying  and  provoking  this  is!  We  re- 
mained on  deck  all  day  lying  on  sofas;  the  sea 
was  very  rough  toward  evening,  and  I  was  very 
ill.  We  reached  Flamhorougli  Head^  on  the  York- 
shire coast,  by  half  past  five. 


Wednesday^  August  31. 

At  ^\Q  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  heard,  to  our 
great  vexation,  that  we  had  only  been  going  three 
knots  an  hour  in  the  night,  and  were  50  miles 
from  8t.  Ahh's  Head. 

We  passed  Coquet  Island  and  Bamhorough 
Castle  on  the  Northumberland  coast,  which  I  was 
unfortunately  unable  to  see ;  but  from  my  cabin 
I  saw  Feme  Island,  with  Grace  Darling's  light- 
house on  it ;  also  Rocky  Islands  and  Holy  Island. 
At  half  past  five  I  went  on  deck,  and  immediate- 
ly lay  down.  We  then  came  in  sight  of  the 
Scotch  coast,  which  is  very  beautiful,  so  dark, 
rocky,  bold,  and  wild,  totally  unlike  our  coast. 
We  passed  St.  AhVs  Head  at  half  past  six.  Num- 
bers of  fishing-boats  (in  one  of  which  was  a  piper 


20 


Life  in  the  Highlanda. 


playing)  and  steamers  full  of  people  came  out 
to  meet  us,  and  on  board  of  one  large  steamer 
they  danced  a  reel  to  £  band.  It  was  a  beautiful 
evening,  calm,  with  a  fine  sunset,  and  the  air  so 
pure. 

One  can  not  help  noticing  how  much  longer  the 
days  are  here  than  they  were  in  England.  It 
was  not  really  dark  till  past  eight  o'clock,  and  on 
Monday  and  Tuesday  evening,  at  \Vindso7\  it  was 
nearly  dark  by  half  past  seven,  quite  so  before 
eight.  The  men  begged  leave  to  dance,  which 
they  did  to  the  sound  of  a  violin  played  by  a  lit- 
tle sailor-boy ;  they  also  sang. 

We  remained  on  deck  till  twenty-five  minutes 
to  nine,  and  saw  many  bonfires  on  the  Scotch 
coast  —  at  Dunhar  —  Lord  Haddington's  place, 
Tyningltame,  and  at  other  points  on  the  coast. 
We  let  off  four  rockets,  and  burned  two  blue- 
lights.  It  is  s^irprising  to  see  the  sailors  climb 
on  the  bowsprit  and  up  to  the  top  of  the  mast- 
head— this,  too,  at  all  times  of  the  day  and  night. 
The  man  who  carried  the  lantern  to  the  main-top 
ran  up  with  it  in  his  mouth  to  the  top.  They  are 
so  handy  and  so  well  conducted. 

We  felt  most  thankful  and  happy  that  we  were 
near  our  journey's  end. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


21 


Thursday y  September  1. 

At  a  quarter  to  one  o'clock  we  heard  the  an- 
chor let  down — a  welcome  sound.  At  seven  we 
went  on  deck,  where  \/e  breakfasted.  Close  ou 
one  side  were  Leitli  and  the  high  hills  towering 
over  Edhibiivg^  which  was  in  fog ;  and  on  the 
other  side  was  to  be  seen  the  Ide  of  May  (where, 
it  is  said  Macduff  held  out  against  Macbeth),  the 
Bam  liock  being  behind  us.  At  ten  minutes  past 
eight  we  arrived  at  Gvanton  Pier^  where  we  were 
met  by  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  Sir  Kobert  Peel, 
and  others.  They  came  on  beard  to  see  us,  and 
Sir  Robert  told  us  that  the  people  were  all  in  the 
highest  good-humor,  though  naturally  a  little  dis- 
appointed at  hpving  waited  for  us  yesterday. 
We  then  stepped  over  a  gangway  on  to  the  pier, 
the  people  cheering  and  the  Duke  saying  that  he 
begged  to  be  allowed  to  welcome  us.  Our  ladies 
and  gentlemen  had  landed  before  us,  safe  and 
well,  and  we  two  got  into  a  barouche,  the  ladies 
and  gentlemen  following.  The  Duke,  the  equer- 
ries, and  Mr.  Anson  rode. 

There  were,  however,  not  nearly  so  many  peo- 
ple in  JEdinhurg^  though  the  crowd  and  crush 
were  such  that  one  was  really  continually  in  fear 
of  accidents.     More  regularity  and  order  would 


22 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


have  been  preserved  had  there  not  been  some 
mistake  on  the  part  of  the  Provost  about  giving 
due  notice  of  our  approach.  The  impression  Edin- 
hurg  has  made  upon  us  is  very  great ;  it  is  quite 
beautiful,  totally  unlike  any  thing  else  I  have 
seen ;  and,  what  is  even  more,  Albert,  who  has 
seen  so  much,  says  it  is  unlike  any  thing  he  ever 
saw ;  it  is  so  regular — every  thing  built  of  mass- 
ive stone — there  is  not  a  brick  to  be  seen  any 
where.  The  High  Street,  which  is  pretty  steep, 
is  very  fine.  Then  the  Castle,  situated  on  that 
grand  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  town,  is  most 
striking.  On  the  other  side  the  Calton  Hill,  with 
the  National  Monument,  a  building  in  the  Gre- 
cian style;  JSfelson^s  Momiment;  Hums' s  Monu- 
ment;  the  Jail;  the  National  School,  etc.  —  all 
magnificent  buildings,  and  with  Arthmh  Seat  in 
the  background,  overtopping  the  whole,  form  al- 
together a  splendid  spectacle.  The  enthusiasm 
was  very  great,  and  the  people  very  friendly  and 
kind.     The  Royal  Archers  Body  Guard*  met  us 

*  The  Duke  of  Buccleuch  told  me  the  other  day  that  the 
Archers  Guard  was  established  by  James  I.,  and  was  com- 
posed of  men  who  were  mounted  and  armed  from  head  to 
foot,  and  who  were  bound  always  to  be  near  the  Sover- 
eign's person.  At  Flodden  Field,  King  James  IV. 's  body, 
it  is  said,  was  found  covered  and  surrounded  by  the  bodies 
of  the  Archers  Guard. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


23 


and  walked  with  us  the  whole  way  through  the 
town.  It  is  composed  entirely  of  noblemen  and 
gentlemen,  and  they  all  walked  close  by  the  car- 
riage, but  were  dreadfully  pushed  about.  Among 
them  were  the  Duke  of  Roxburgh  and  Lord  El- 
cho  on  my  side,  and  Sir  J.  Hope  on  Albert's  side. 
Lord  Elcho  (whom  I  did  not  know  at  the  time) 
pointed  out  the  various  monuments  and  places  to 
me  as  we  came  along.  When  we  were  out  of  the 
town  we  went  faster.  Every  cottage  is  built  of 
stone,  and  so  are  all  the  walls  that  are  used  as 


fences. 


The  country  and  people  have  quite  a  different 
character  from  England  and  the  English.  The 
old  women  wear  close  caps,  and  all  the  children 
and  girls  are  barefooted.  I  saw  several  handsome 
girls  and  children  with  long  hair ;  indeed,  all  the 
poor  girls,  from  sixteen  and  seventeen  down  to 
two  or  three  years  old,  have  loose  flowing  hair — 
a  great  deal  of  it  red. 

As  we  came  along  we  saw  Craigmillar  Castle^ 
a  ruin  where  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  used  to  live. 
We  reached  Dalkeith  at  eleven — a  large  house, 
constructed  of  reddish  stone,  the  greater  part  built 
by  the  Duchess  of  Monmouth,  and  the  park  is 
very  fine  and  large.  The  house  has  three  fronts, 
with  the  entrance  on  the  left  as  you  drive  up. 


24 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


The  Duchess  of  Buccleuch  arrived  directly  after 
us,  and  we  were  shown  up  a  very  handsome  stair- 
case to  our  rooms,  which  are  very  comfortable. 
We  both  felt  dreadfully  tired  and  giddy. 

We  drove  out  together.  The  park  is  very 
extensive,  with  a  beautiful  view  of  ArtJmrs  Seat 
and  the  Pentland  Hills ;  and  there  is  a  pretty 
drive  overhanging  a  deep  valley.  At  eight  we 
dined — a  large  party.  Every  body  was  very 
kind  and  civil,  and  full  of  inquiries  as  to  our 
voyage. 


Dalkeith  House ^  Friday^  September  2. 
At  breakfast  I  tasted  the  oatmeal  porridge, 
which  I  think  very  good,  and  also  some  of  the 
"Finnan  haddies."  We  then  walked  out.  The 
pleasure-grounds  seem  very  extensive  and  beauti- 
ful, wild  and  hilly.  We  walked  down  along  the 
stream  (the  River  Fslc)^  up  a  steep  bank  to  a  lit- 
tle cottage,  and  came  home  by  the  upper  part  of 
the  walk.  At  four  o'clock  we  drove  out  with  the 
Duchess  of  Buccleuch  and  the  Duchess  of  Nor- 
folk— the  Duke  and  equerries  riding,  the  others 
in  another  carriage.  We  drove  through  Dal- 
heith,  which  was  full  of  people,  all  running  and 
cheering. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


25 


Albert  says  tliat  many  of  the  people  look  like 
Germans.  The  old  women,  with  that  kind  of  cap 
which  they  call  a  "  mutch,"  and  the  young  girls 
and  children  with  flowing  hair,  and  many  of  them 
pretty,  are  very  picturesque ;  you  hardly  see  any 
women  with  bonnets. 

Such  a  thick  "  Scotch  mist"  came  on  that  we 
were  obliged  to  drive  home  through  the  village 
of  Lasswade,  and  through  Lord  Melville's  Park, 
which  is  very  fine. 


idge, 

the 

The 

LUti- 

the 
lit- 
of 
the 
[or- 
lers 
W- 
md 


Saturday  J  September  3. 
At  ten  o'clock  we  set  off — we  two  in  the  ba- 
rouche, all  the  others  following — for  Ediiibxirg. 
We  drove  in  under  Arthur's  Seat,  where  the 
crowd  began  to  be  very  great,  and  here  the  Guard 
of  Koyal  Archers  met  us ;  Lord  Elcho  walking 
near  me,  and  the  Duke  of  Koxburgh  and  Sir  J. 
Hope  on  Albert's  side.  We  passed  by  Holyrood 
Cliapel^  which  is  very  old  and  full  of  interest,  and 
Holyrood  Palace^  a  royal-looking  old  place.  The 
procession  moved  through  the  Old  Town  up  the 
High  St/reet,  which  is  a  most  extraordinary  street 
from  the  immense  height  of  the  houses,  most  of 
them  being  eleven  stories  high,  and  different  fam- 
ilies living  in  each  story.  Every  window  was 
crammed  full  of  people. 

B 


.26 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


\  t 


\\    ' 


They  showed  us  Knox's  House,  a  curious  old 
building,  as  is  also  the  Regent  Murray's  House, 
which  is  in  perfect  preservation.  In  the  Old 
Town  the  High  Church,  and  St.  PauVs  in  the 
New  Town,  are  very  fine  buildings.  At  the  bar- 
rier the  Provost  presented  us  with  the  keys. 

The  girls  of  the  Orphan  Asi/kim,  and  the 
Trades  in  old  costumes,  were  on  a  platform.  Far- 
ther on  was  the  JVew  OJiurch,  to  which — strange 
to  say,  as  the  church  is  nearly  finished  —  they 
were  going  to  lay  the  foundation-stone.  We  at 
length  reached  the  Castle,  to  the  top  of  which  we 
walked. 

The  view  from  both  batteries  is  splendid,  like 
a  panorama  in  extent.  We  saw  from  them  Her- 
tofs  Hospital,  a  beautiful  old  building,  built,  in 
the  time  of  James,  by  a  jeweler,  whom  Sir  Walter 
Scott  has  made  famous  in  his  Fortunes  of  Nigel. 
After  this,  we  got  again  into  the  carriages  and 
proceeded  in  the  same  way  as  before,  the  pressure 
of  the  crowd  being  really  quite  alarming ;  and 
both  I  and  Albert  were  quite  ten'ified  for  the 
Archers  Guard,  who  had  very  hard  work  of  it, 
but  w^ere  of  the  greatest  use.  They  all  carry  a 
bow  in  one  hand,  and  have  their  arrows  stuck 
through  their  belts. 

Unfortunately,  as  soon  as  we  were  out  of  Ed- 


Mi. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


27 


inburg^  it  began  to  rain,  and  continued  raining 
the  whole  afternoon  without  interruption.  We 
reached  Dalmeny, Lovd  Koseberry's,  at  two  o'clock. 
The  park  is  beautiful,  with  the  trees  growing 
down  to  the  sea.  It  commands  a  very  fine  view 
of  the  Forth,  the  Isle  of  May,  the  Bass  Bock,  and 
of  Edinburg,  but  the  mist  rendered  it  almost  im- 
possible to  see  any  thing.  The  grounds  are  very 
extensive,  being  hill,  and  dale,  and  ^wood.  TJie 
house  is  quite  modern:  Lord  Koseberry  built 
it,  and  it  is  very  pretty  and  comfortable.  We 
lunched  there.  The  Roseberry's  were  all  civility 
and  attention.  We  left  them  about  half  past 
three,  and  proceeded  home  through  Leitli. 

The  view  of  Bdlnhurg  from  the  road  before 
you  enter  Leith  is  quite  enchanting ;  it  is,  as  Al- 
bert said, "  fairy-like,"  and  what  you  would  only 
imagine  as  a  thing  to  dream  of,  or  to  see  in  a  pic- 
ture. There  was  that  beautiful  large  town,  all  of 
stone  (no  mingled  colors  of  brick  to  mar  it),  with 
the  bold  Castle  on  one  side,  and  the  Calton  Hill 
on  the  other,  with  those  high,  sharp  hills  of  Ar- 
tJiur'^s  Seat  and  Salisbury  Crags  towering  above 
all,  and  making  the  finest,  boldest  background 
imaginable.  Albert  said  he  felt  sure  the  Acropo- 
lis could  not  be  finer ;  and  I  hear  they  sometimes 
call  Edinburg  "  the  modern  Athens^    The  Arch- 


28 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


\ 


ers  Guard  met  us  again  at  LeifJi,  wliicli  is  not  a 
pretty  town. 

The  people  were  most  enthusiastic,  and  the 
crowd  very  great.  The  Porters  all  mounted,  with 
curious  Scotch  caps,  and  their  horsQs  decorated 
with  flowers,  had  a  very  singular  effect ;  but  the 
fishwomen  are  the  most  striking-looking  people, 
and  are  generally  young  and  pretty  women — yqvj 
clean  and  Vj^ry  Dutch-looking,  with  their  white 
caps  and  bright-colored  petticoats.  They  never 
marry  out  of  their  class. 

At  six  we  returned  well  tired. 


Simday^  Septetnher  4. 
We  walked  to  see  the  new  garden  which  is 
being  made,  and  saw  Mackintosh  there,  who  was 
formerly  gardener  at  Claremont.  The  view  of 
Dalkeith  (the  village,  or  rather  town)  from  thence 
is  extremely  picturesque,  and  Albert  says  very 
German-looking.  We  returned  over  a  rough  sort 
of  bridge,  made  only  of  planks,  which  crosses  the 
Eskj  and  which,  with  the  wooded  banks  on  each 
side,  is  excessively  pretty.  Received  from  Lady 
Lyttelton  good  accounts  of  our  little  children.  At 
twelve  o'clock  there  were  prayers  in  the  house, 
read  by  Mr.  Ramsay,  who  also  preached. 


•  I 


Lift  in  the  Highlands. 


29 


At  half  past  four  the  Duchess  drove  me  out  in 
her  own  phaeton,  with  a  very  pretty  pair  of  chest- 
nut ponies,  Albert  riding  with  the  Duke  and  Col- 
onel Bouverie.  We  drove  through  parts  of  the 
park,  through  an  old  wood,  and  along  the  banks 
of  the  South  Esk  and  the  North  Esk,  which  meet 
at  a  point  from  which  there  is  such  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  Pentland  Hills.  Then  we  drove,  by 
a  private  road,  to  Newhattle^  Lord  Lothian's  place. 
The  park  is  very  fine,  and  the  house  seems  large ; 
we  got  out  to  look  at  a  most  magnificent  beech- 
tree.  The  Soidh  Esk  runs  close  before  the  house, 
by  a  richly  wooded  bank. 

From  thence  we  went  to  Dalhousie^  Lord  Dal- 
housie's.  The  house  is  a  real  old  Scotch  castle, 
of  reddish  stone.  We  got  out  for  a  moment, 
and  the  Dalhousies  showed  us  the  drawing-room. 
From  the  window  you  see  a  beautiful  wooded 
valley,  and  a  peep  of  the  distant  hills. 

Lord  Dalhousie  said  there  had  been  no  British 
sovereign  there  since  Henry  IV.  We  drove  home 
by  the  same  way  that  we  came.  The  evening 
was — as  the  whole  day  had  been — clear,  bright, 
and  frosty,  and  the  Moorfoot  Hills  (another  range) 
looked  beautiful  as  we  were  returning.  It  was 
past  seven  when  we  got  home. 


w 


II 


30 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Monday.,  September  5. 
I  held  a  Drawing-room  at  Dalkeitli  to-day,  in 
the  gallery.  The  Ministers  and  Scotch  Officers 
of  State  were  in  the  room,  and  the  Royal  Archers 
were  in  attendance  in  the  room  and  outside  of  it, 
like  the  Gentlemen-at-Arms  in  London.  Before 
the  Drawing-room  I  received  three  addresses — 
from  the  Lord  Provost  and  Magistrates,  from  the 
Scotch  Church,  and  from  the  Universities  of  St. 
Andrews.,  Glasgow.,  and  Edinhurg  —  to  which  I 
read  answers.  Albert  received  his  just  after  I  did 
mine,  and  read  his  answers  beautifully. 


Tuesday.,  Septemher  G. 

At  nine  o'clock  we  left  Dalkeitli  as  we  came. 
It  was  a  bright,  clear,  cold,  frosty  morning.  As 
we  drove  along  we  saw  the  Penilands,  which 
looked  beautiful,  as  did  also  AriJmr's  Seat,  which 
we  passed  quite  close  by.  The  Salisbury  Crags., 
too,  are  very  high,  bold,  and  sharp.  Before  this 
we  saw  Graigmillar.  We  passed  through  a  back 
part  of  the  town  (which  is  most  solidly  built), 
close  by  HerMs  Hospital,  and  had  a  very  fine 
view  of  the  Castle. 

I  forgot  to  say  that,  when  we  visited  the  Castle, 


Life  in  the  Hiyhlands. 


81 


me. 
As 
lich 
lich 

lliis 
ick 
it), 
ne 

lie. 


wo  saw  the  Regalia,  which  are  very  old  and  curi- 
ous (they  were  lost  for  one  hundred  years) ;  also 
the  room  in  which  James  VI.  of  Scotland  and  the 
First  of  England  was  born  —  such  a  very,  very 
small  room,  with  an  old  prayer  written  on  the 
wall.  We  had  a  beautiful  view  oiMlinhurg  and 
the  Fm'tli.  At  Craigleith  (only  a  halfway  house, 
nine  miles)  we  changed  horses.  The  Duke  rode 
with  us  all  the  way  as  Lord  Lieutenant  of  the 
county  until  we  arrived  at  Dahneny^  where  Lord 
Hopetoun  met  us  and  rode  with  us.  At  eleven 
w^e  reached  the  South  Queensferry,  where  we  got 
out  of  our  carriage  and  embarked  in  a  little 
'steamer,  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  our  carriages 
going  in  another.  We  went  a  little  way  up  the 
Foiili  to  see  Hopetoun  House,  Lord  Hopetoun's, 
which  is  beautifully  situated  between  Hopetoun 
and  Dalmeny.  We  also  saw  Dundas  Castle,  be- 
longing to  Dundas  of  Dundas,  and  farther  on,  be- 
yond Hopetoun,  Blackness  Castle,  famous  in  his- 
tory. On  the  opposite  side  you  see  a  square  tow- 
er, close  to  the  water,  called  Rosytli,  where  Oliver 
Cromw^ell's  mother  was  said  to  have  bet  n  born, 
and  in  the  distance  Dunfermline,  where  Robert 
Bruce  is  buried.  We  passed  close  by  a  very 
pretty  island  in  the  Forth,  with  an  old  castle  on 
it,  called  Inchgarvie  ;  and  we  could  see  the  Forth 


i(ja-« 


32 


Life  in  the  Uiyhlands. 


winding  beautifully,  and  had  a  distant  glimpse  of 
Edinhurg  and  its  fine  Castle.  We  landed  safely 
on  the  other  side  at  North  Qiieensfervy^  and  got 
into  our  carriages.  Captain  Werayss,  elder  broth- 
er to  General  Wemyss,  rode  with  us  all  the  way 
beyond  Coiodenheatli  (eight  miles).  The  first  vil- 
lage we  passed  through?  on  leaving  the  Queens- 
ferry  was  Inverlceiiking.  We  passed  by  Sir  P. 
Durham's  property. 

We  changed  horses  at  Cowdenbeath.  At  a 
quarter  past  one  we  entered  Kinross-shire.  Soon 
after,  the  country  grew  prettier,  and  the  hills  ap- 
peared again,  partly  wooded.  We  passed  Loch 
Leven,  and  saw  the  castle  on  the  lake  from  which 
poor  Queen  Mary  escaped.  There  the  country  is 
rather  flat,  and  the  hills  are  only  on  one  sid^.  We 
changed  horses  next  at  Kinross.  Soon  after  this, 
the  mountains,  which  are  rather  barren,  began  to 
appear.  Then  we  passed  the  valley  of  GUn  Farg  ; 
the  hills  are  very  high  on  each  side,  and  complete- 
ly wooded  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  valley, 
where  a  small  stream  runs  '-n  one  side  of  the  road 
— it  is  really  lovely. 

On  leaving  this  valley  you  come  upon  a  beauti- 
ful view  of  Strathearn  and  Moncrieffe  Hill.  We 
were  then  in  Perthshire.  We  changed  horses  next 
at  the  Bridge  of  Earn  (12  miles).     At  half  past 


^ 


Life  in  the  Ilif/hlayids. 


1^3 


three  we  reached  Dupplin,  Lord  Kiiinoull's.  All 
the  time  the  views  of  the  hills,  and  dale^,  and 
streams  were  lovely.  The  last  part  of  the  road 
very  bad  traveling,  up  and  down  hill.  DvppUn 
is  a  very  fine  modern  house,  with  a  very  pretty 
view  of  the  hills  on  one  side,  and  a  small  water- 
fall close  in  front  of  the  house.  A  battalion  of 
the  42d  Highlanders  was  drawn  up  before  the 
house,  and  the  men  looked  '» ery  handsome  in  their 
kilts.  We  each  received  an  address  from  the  no- 
bility  and  gentry  of  the  county,  read  by  Lord 
Kinnoull ;  and  from  the  Provost  and  Magistrates 
oi  Perth.  We  then  lunch  3d.  The  Willoughbys, 
Kinnairds,  Ruthvens,  and  Lord  Mansfield,  and  one 
of  his  sisters,  with  others,  were  there.  After  lunch- 
eon we  walked  a  little  way  in  the  grounds,  and 
then  at  five  o'clock  we  set  off  again.  We  very 
soon  came  ijpon  Perth,  the  situation  of  which  is 
quite  lovely ;  it  is  on  the  Tay,  with  wooded  hills 
skirting  it  entirely  on  one  side,  and  hills  are  seen 
again  in  the  distance,  the  river  winding  beautifully. 
Albert  was  charmed,  and  said  it  put  him  in  mind 
of  the  situation  of  Basle.  The  town  itself  (which 
is  very  pretty)  was  immensely  crowded,  and  the 
people  very  enthusiastic;  triumphal  arches  had 
been  erecter-  in  various  places.  The  Provost  pre- 
sented me  with  the  keys,  aud  Albert  with  the 

B2 


>     { 


i!    I 


34 


Life,  in  the  Highlands. 


freedom  of  the  city.  Two  miles  beyond  is  Scone 
(Lord  Mansfield's),  a  fine-looking  house  of  reddish 
stone. 

Lord  Mansfield  and  the  Dowager  Lady  Mans- 
field received  us  at  the  door,  and  took  us  to  our 
rooms,  which  were  very  nice. 


Wednesday,  September'  7. 

We  walked  out,  and  saw  the  mound  on  which 
the  ancient  Scotch  kings  were  always  crowned; 
also  the  old  arch  with  James  VI.'s  arms,  and  the 
old  cross,  which  is  very  interesting. 

Before  our  windows  stands  a  sycamore  -  tree 
planted  by  James  VL  A  curious  old  book  was 
brought  to  us  from  Perth,  in  which  the  last  signa- 
tures are  those  of  James  I.  (of  England)  and  of 
Charles  L,  and  we  were-  asked  to  writ©  our  names 
in  it,  and  we  did  so.  Lord  Mansfiel  i  told  me  yes- 
terday that  there  were  some  people  in  the  town 
who  wore  the  identical  dresses  that  had  been  worn 
in  Charles  L's  time.  At  eleven  o'clock  we  set  off 
as  before.  We  drove  througri  part  of  Pertli,  and 
had  a  very  fine  view  of  Scone.  A  few  miles  on, 
we  passed  the  field  of  battle  of  Luncarty,  where 
tradition  says  the  Danes  were  beaten  by  Lord  Er- 
roll's  ancestor.     We  also  passed  Lord  Lynedoch's 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


86 


we 


s 


property.  We  then  clianged  horses  at  the  "  New 
Inn"  at  Aiichtergaven.  The  Grampians  came  now 
distinctly  into  view;  they  are,  indeed,  a  grand 
range  of  mountains. 

To  the  left  we  saw  TullylmgleSy  where  it  is  said 
the  Druids  used  to  sacrifice  to  Bel;  there  are  a 
few  trees  on  the  top  of  the  mountain. 

To  the  left,  but  more  immediately  before  us,  we 
saw  Birnam,  where  once  stood  Birnam  Wood,  so 
renowned  in  Macheth.  We  passed  a  pretty  shoot- 
ing place  of  Sir  W.  Stewart's,  called  Hohallion, 
nearly  at  the  foot  of  Birnam.  To  the  right  we 
saw  the  Stormont  and  Strathtay.  Albert  said,  as 
we  came  along  between  the  mountains,  that  to  the 
right,  where  they  were  wooded,  it  was  very  like 
Timringen,  and  on  the  left  more  like  Switzerland. 
MurtJily,  to  the  right,  which  belongs  to  Sir  W. 
Stewart,  is  in  a  very  fine  situation,  with  the  Tay 
winding  under  the  hill.  This  lovely  scenery  con- 
tinues all  along  to  Dmikeld.  Lord  Mansfield  rode 
with  us  the  whole  way. 

Just  outside  Dmikeld,  before  a  triumphal  arch. 
Lord  Glenlyon's  Highlanders,  with  halberds,  met 
us,  and  formed  our  guard — a  piper  playing  be- 
fore us.  Dunheld  is  beautifully  situated,  in  a 
narrow  valley,  on  the  banks  of  the  Tay.  We 
drove  in  to  where  the  Hicrhlanders  were  all  drawn 


36 


Lift  in  tlie  Highlands, 


illiiili 
iitl  I 


up,  in  the  midst  of  their  encampments,  and  where 
a  tent  was  prepared  for  us  to  lunch  in.  Poor  Lord 
Glenlyon  received  us;  but  he  had  suddenly  be 
come  totally  blind,  which  is  dreadful  for  him 
He  was  led  about  by  his  wife ;  it  was  very  mel 
aucholy.  His  blindness  w^as  caused  by  over-fa 
tigue.  The  Dowager  Lady  Glenlyon,  the  Mans 
fields,  Kinnoulls,  Buccleuchs,  and  many  others 
were  there.  We  walked  down  the  ranks  of  the 
Highlanders,  and  then  partook  of  luncheon ;  the 
piper  played,  and  one  of  the  Highlanders*  danced 
the  "sword  dance."  (Two  swords  crossed  are 
laid  upon  the  ground,  and  the  dancer  has  to  dance 
across  them  without  touching  them.)  Some  of 
the  others  danced  a  reel. 

At  a  quarter  to  four  we  left  Dunkeld  as  we 
came,  the  Highland  Guard  marching  wdth  us  till 
we  reached  the  outside  of  the  town.  The  drive 
was  quite  beautiful  all  the  way  to  Taymouth.j- 

*  Charlie  Chris'ae,  now  steward  to  the  present  Dowager 
Duchess  of  Athole. 

f  I  revisited  Taymouth  last  autumn,  on  the  3d  of  October, 
from  Dnnkeld  (incognita),  with  Louise,  the  Dowager  Duch- 
ess of  Athole,  and  Miss  Mac  Gregor.  As  we  could  not  have 
driven  through  the  grounds  without  asking  permission,  and 
we  did  not  wish  to  be  known,  we  decided  upon  not  attempt- 
ing to  do  so,  and  contented  ourselves  with  getting  out  at  a 
gate  close  to  a  small  fort,  into  which  we  were  led  by  a  wom- 


m 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


37 


iger 


|ber, 
ich- 


it  a 


Tlie  two  highest  hills  of  the  range  on  each  side 
are  (to  the  left,  as  you  go  on  after  leaving  Dun- 
held)  Craig-y-Barns  and  (to  the  right,  imme- 
diately above  DimMd)  Craigvinean.  The  Tay 
winds  along  beautifully,  and  the  hills  are  richly 
wooded.  We  changed  horses  first  at  Balana- 
gard  (nine  miles),  to  which  place  Captain  Mur- 
ray, Lord  Glenlyon's  brother,  rode  with  us.  The 
hills  grew  higher  and  higher,  and  Albert  said  it 
was  very  Swiss-looking  in  some  pai-ts.  High 
ribbed  mountains  appeared  in  the  distance,  high- 
er than  any  we  have  yet  seen.  This  was  near 
Aherfeldy  (nine  miles),  which  is  charmingly  situ- 
ated and  the  mountains  very  lofty.  At  a  quarter 
to  six  we  reached  Taymoutli.  At  the  gate  a 
guard  of  Highlanders,  Lord  Breadalbane's  men, 

an  from  the  gardener's  house,  near  to  which  we  had  stop- 
ped, and  who  had  no  idea  who  we  were. 

We  got  out,  and  looked  from  this  height  down  upon  the 
hojiise  below,  the  mist  having  cleared  away  sufficiently  to 
show  us  every  thing ;  and  then,  unknown,  quite  in  private, 
I  gazed — not  without  deep  emotion — on  the  scene  of  our 
i-eception  twenty-four  years  ago,  by  dear  Lord  Breadalban>3, 
in  a  princely  style,  not  to  be  equaled  in  grandeur  and  poetic 
cifect. 

•     Albert  nnd  I  were  then  only  twenty-three,  young  and 
happy.     How  many  are  gone  that  were  with  us  then ! 

I  was  very  thankful  to  have  seen  it  again. 

It  seemed  unaltered — 18G0. 


! 


38 


Lijt  in  the  Highlands. 


met  us.  Taymouth  lies  in  a  valley  surrounded 
by  very  high,  wooded  hills ;  it  is  most  beautiful. 
The  house  is  a  kind  of  castle,  built  of  granite. 
The  conp-d'oeil  was  indescribable.  There  were  a 
number  of  Lord  Breadalbane's  Highlanders,  all 
in  the  Campbell  tartan,  drawn  up  in  front  of  the 
house,  with  Lord  Breadalbane  himself  in  a  High- 
land dress  at  their  head,  a  few  of  Sir  Neil  Menzies' 
men  (in  the  Menzies  red  and  white  tartan),  a 
number  of  pipers  plajdng,  and  a  company  of  the 
92d  Highlanders,  also  in  kilts.  The  firing  of  the 
guns,  the  cheering  of  the  great  crowd,  the  pic- 
turesqueness  of  the  dresses,  the  beauty  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  with  its  rich  background  of 
wooded  hills,  altogether  formed  one  of  the  finest- 
scenes  imaginable.  It  seemed  as  if  a  great  chief- 
tain in  olden  feudal  times  was  receiving  his  sov- 
ereign. It  was  princely  and  romantic.  Lord  and 
Lady  Brea^lalbane  took  us  up  stairs,  the  ball  and 
stairs  being  lined  with  Highlanders.  * 

The  Gothic  staircase  is  of  stone  and  very  fine ; 
the  whole  of  the  house  is  newly  and  exquisitely 
furnished.  The  drawing-room,  especially,  is  splen- 
did. Thence  yvju  go  into  a  passage  and  a  library, 
which  adjoins  our  private  apartments.  They 
showed  us  two  sets  of  apartments,  and  we  chose 
those  which  are  on  the  right  hand  of  the  corridor 


Is 


lAfe  in  the  Highlands. 


89 


iely 
len- 

ley- 
)8e 
lor 


or  anteroom  to  the  library.  At  eight  we  dined. 
Staying  in  the  house,  besides  ourselves,  are  the 
Buccleuchs  and  the  two  Ministers,  the  Duchess  of 
Sutherland  and  Lady  Elizabeth  Leveson  Gower, 
the  Abercorns,  Roxburghs,  Kinnoulls,  Lord  Laud- 
erdale, Sir  Anthony  Maitland,  Lord  Lome,  the 
Fox  Maules,  Belhavens,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  William 
Russell,  Sir  J.  and  Lady  Elizabeth,  and  the  Misses 
Pringle,  and  two  Messrs.  Baillie,  brothers  of  Lady 
Breadalbane.  The  dining-room  is  a  fine  room  in 
Gothic  style,  and  has  never  been  dined  in  till  this 
day.  Our  apartments  also  are  inhabited  for  the 
first  time.  After  dinner  the  gardens  were  most 
splendidly  illuminated — a  whole  chain  of  lamps 
along  the  railings,  and  on  the  ground  was  'svritten 
in  lamps,  "  Welcome  Victoria — Albert." 

A  small  fort,  which  is  up  in  the  woods,  was  il- 
luminated, and  bonfires  were  burning  on  the  tops 
of  the  hills.  I  never  saw  any  thing  so  fairy-like. 
There  were  some  pretty  fireworks,  and  the  whole 
ended  by  the  Highlanders  dancing  reels,  which 
they  do  to  perfection,  to  the  sound  of  the  pipes, 
by  torchlight,  in  front  of  the  house.  It  had  a 
wild  and  very  gay  effect. 


ilil 


iil 


40 


Life  in  Hit  Highlands, 


TaymoutJi,  Thursday^  Septeniber  8. 

Albert  went  off  at  half  past  nine  o'clock  to 
shoot  with  Lord  Breadalbane.  I  walked  out  with 
the  Duchess  of  Norfolk  along  a  path  overlooking 
the  Tay^  which  is  very  clear,  and  ripples  and  foams 
along  over  the  stones,  the  high  mountains  form- 
ing such  a  rich  background.  We  got  up  to  the 
dairy,  which  is  a  kind  of  Swiss  cottage,  built  of 
quartz,  very  clean  and  nice.  From  the  top  of  it 
there  is  a  very  pretty  view  of  Loch  Tay^ 

We  returned  home  by  the  way  we  came.  It 
rained  the  whole  time,  and  very  hard  for  a  little 
while.  Albert  returned  at  half  past  threeo  He 
had  hcid  excellent  sport,  and  the  trophies  of  it 
were  spread  out  before  the  house — nineteen  roe- 
deer,  several  hares  and  pheasants,  and  three  brace 
of  grouse ;  there  was  also  a  capercailzie  that  had 
been  wounded,  and  which  I  saw  afterward  —  a 
magnificent  large  bird. 

Albert  had  been  near  Aherfeldy,  and  had  to 
shoot  and  walk  the  whole  way  back.  Lord  Bread- 
albane himself  beating,  and  300  Highlanders  out 
We  went  out  at  ^yq^  with  Lady  Breadalbane  and 
the  Duchess  of  Sutherland ;  we  saw  part  of  Loch 
Tay^  and  drove  along  the  banks  of  the  Tay  under 
fine  trees,  and  saw  Lord  Breadalbane's  American 
buffaloes. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


41 


Friday^  September'  9. 

Albert  off  again  after  nine  o'clock,  to  shoot. 
Soon  after  he  left  I  walked  out  with  the  Duchess 
of  Norfolk  across  the  iron  bridge,  and  along  a 
grass  walk  overhanging  the  Tay. 

Two  of  the  Highland  Guard  (they  were  sta- 
tioned at  almost  every  gate  in  the  park)  followed 
us,  and  it  looked  like  olden  times  to  see  them 
with  their  swords  drawn. 

We  then  walked  to  a  lodge  on  the  same  road. 
A  fat,  good-humored  little  woman,  about  forty 
years  old,  cut  some  flowers  for  each  of  us,  and  the 
Duchess  gave  her  some  money,  saying,  "PYom  her 
Majesty."  I  never  saw  any  one  more  surprised 
than  she  was;  she,  however,  came  up  to  me,  ajd 
said  very  warmly  that  my  people  were  delighted 
to  see  me  in  Scotland.  It  came  on  to  rain  very 
heavily  soon  afterward,  but  we  walked  on.  We 
saw  a  woman  in  the  river,  with  her  dress  tucked 
up  almost  to  her  knees,  washing  potatoes. 

The  rain  ceased  just  as  we  came  home,  but  it 
went  on  pouring  frequently.  Albert  returned  at 
twenty  minutes  to  three,  having  had  very  hard 
work  on  the  moors,  wading  up  to  his  knees  in 
bogs  every  now  and  then,  and  had  killed  nine 
brace  of  grouse.     We  lunched ;  then  we  went  to 


^2 


Lift  in  the  Hijhlands. 


the  drawing-room,  and  saw  from  the  window  the 
Highlanders  dancing  reels ;  but,  unfortunately,  it 
rained  the  whole  time.  There  were  nine  pipers 
at  the  castle ;  sometimes  one,  and  sometimes  three 
played.  They  always  played  about  breakfast- 
time,  again  during  the  morning  at  luncheon,  and 
also  whenever  we  went  in  and  out ;  again  before 
dinner,  and  during  most  of  dinner-time.  We  both 
have  become  quite  fond  of  the  bagpipes. 

At  a  quarter  past  five  we  drove  out  with  the 
Duchess  of  Buccleuch  and  the  Duchess  of  Suth- 
erland (poor  I^ady  Breadalbane  not  being  very 
well).  Lord  Breadalbane  riding  the  whole  time 
before  us.  We  took  a  most  beautiful  drive,  first 
of  all  along  part  of  the  lake  and  between  the  hills 
—  such  thorough  mountain  scenery  —  and  with 
little  huts,  so  low,  so  full  of  peat  smoke,  that  one 
could  hardly  see  any  thing  for  smoke.  We  saw 
£e7i  LawerSj  which  is  said  to  be  4000  feet  high, 
very  well ;  and  farther  on,  quite  in  the  distance, 
£en  More  —  also  the  Glevlyon,  and  the  Kiver 
l/yon,  and  many  fine  glens.  It  was  quite  dark 
when  we  came  home  at  half  past  seven.  At 
eight  we  dined;  Lord  and  Lady  Ruthven  and 
Lord  and  Lady  Duncan  dined  here.  After  din- 
ner came  a  number  of  people,  about  ninety,  and 
there  was  a  ball.     It  opened  with  a  quadrille, 


Life  in  the  Hiyldands. 


43 


which  I  danced  with  Lord  Breadalbane,  and  Al- 
bert with  the  Duchess  of  Buccleuch.  A  number 
of  reels  were  danced,  which  it  was  very  amusing 
and  pretty  to  see. 


Saturday,  Septemher  10. 
We  walked  to  the  dairy  and  back — a  fine 
bright  morning;  the  weather  the  two  preceding 
days  had  been  very  unfortunate.  I  drove  a  little 
way  with  Lady  Breadalbane,  the  others  walking, 
and  then  got  out,  and  each  of  us  planted  two 
trees,  a  fir  and  an  oak.  We  got  in  again,  and 
drove  with  the  whole  party  down  to  the  lake, 
where  we  embarked.  Lady  Breadalbane^  the 
Duchess  of  Sutherland,  and  Lady  Elizabeth  went 
by  land,  but  all  the  others  went  in  boats.  With 
us  were  Lord  Breadalbane,  and  the  Duchess  of 
Norfolk  and  Duchess  of  Buccleuch ;  and  two  pip- 
ers sat  on  the  bow  and  played  very  often.  I  have 
since  been  reading  in  The  Lady  of  the  Lake,  and 
this  passage  reminds  me  of  our  voyage : 

"  See  the  proud  pipers  on  the  bow, 
And  mark  the  gaudy  streamers  flow 
From  their  loud  chanters  down,  and  sweep 
The  furrow'd  bosom  of  the  deep. 
As,  rushing  through  the  lake  amain. 
They  plied  the  ancient  Higliland  strain." 


44 


Lift  in  the  Hiyhlands. 


Our  row  of  16  miles  up  Locli  Tay  to  Auchmoi'ey 
a  cottage  of  Lord  Breadalbane's,  near  the  end  of 
the  lake,  was  the  prettiest  thing  imaginable.  We 
saw  the  splendid  scenery  to  such  great  advantage 
on  both  sides — I^en  Lawers^  with  small  waterfalls 
descending  its  sides^  amid  other  high  mountains 
wooded  here  and  there ;  with  Kenmore  in  the  dis- 
tance; the  view,,  looking  back,  as  the  loch  winds, 
was  most  beautiful.  The  boatmen  sang  two  Gae- 
lic boat-songs,  very  wild  and  singular;  the  lan- 
guage so  guttural,  and  yet  so  soft.  Captain  Mc- 
Dougall,  who  steered,  and  who  is  the  head  of  the 
McDougalls,  showed  us  the  real  "brooch  of  Lorn," 
which  was  taken  by  his  ancestor  from  Robert 
Bruce  in  a  battle.  The  situation  oiAiwJimore  is 
exquisite ;  the  trees,  growling  so  beautifully  down 
from  the  top  of  the  mountains,  quite  into  the 
water,  and  the  mountains  all  round,  make  it  ^n 
enchanting  spot.  We  landed  and  lunched  in  the 
cottage,  which  is  a  very  nice  little  place.  The  day 
was  very  fine ;  the  Highlanders  were  there  again. 
We  left  Auchmore  at  twenty  minutes  past  three, 
having  arrived  there  at  a  quarter  before  three. 
The  kindness  and  attention  to  us  of  Lord  and  of 
Tiady  Breadalbane  (wL^  is  very  delicate)  were  un- 
bounded. We  passed  Killin,  where  there  is  a 
mountain  stroam  running  over  large  stones,  and 
forming  waterfalls. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


45 


ii 


JX 


in. 

36, 


> 


The  country  we  came  to  now  was  very  wild, 
beginning  at  Gleti  Doclmrt,  through  uliich  the 
Dochart  flows ;  nothing  but  moors  and  very  high 
rocky  mountains.  We  came  to  a  small  lake 
called,  I  think,  Laragilly^  amid  the  wildest  and 
finest  scenery  we  had  yet  seen.  Glen  Ogle^  which 
is  a  sort  of  long  pass,  putting  one  in  mind  of  the 
prints  of  the  Kyher  Pass,  the  road  going  for  some 
^vay  down  hill  and  up  hill,  through  these  very 
high  mountains,  and  the  escort  in  front  looking 
like  mere  specks  from  the  great  height.  We  also 
saw  Pen  Voirlich.  At  Locli  Earn  Heat!  we 
changed  horses.  Lord  Breadalbane  rode  with  us 
the  whole  way  up  to  this  point,  and  then  he  put 
his  Factor  (in  Highland  dress)  up  behind  our  car- 
riage. It  came  on  to  rain,  and  rained  almost  the 
whole  of  the  rest  of  the  time.  We  passed  along 
Loch  Earn,  which  is  a  very  beautiful  long  lake 
skirted  by  high  mountains,  but  is  not  so  long  or 
so  large  as  Loch  Tay.  Just  as  we  turned  and 
went  by  St.  Fillans,  the  view  of  the  lake  was  very 
fine.  There  is  a  large  detached  rock  with  rich 
verdure  on  it,  which  is  very  striking. 

We  also  saw  Glenartney,  the  mountain  on 
which  Lord  Willoughby  has  his  deer  forest.  Wo 
passed  by  Sir  D.  Dundas's  place,  Dunira,  before 
we  changed  horses  at  Comrie,  for  the  last  time. 


46 


Life,  in  the  Highlands. 


and  then  by  Mr.  Williams's,  and  by  Oclitertyrey 
Sir  W.  Keith  Murray's. 

Triumphal  arches  were  erected  in  many  places. 
We  passed  through  Crieff^  and  a  little  past  seven 
reached  Drummond  Castle,  by  a  very  steep  ascent. 
Lord  Willoughby  received  us  at  the  door,  and 
showed  us  to  our  rooms,  which  are  small,  but  nice. 
Besides  Lord  and  Lady  Willoughby  and  the  two 
Misses  Willoughby,  and  our  own  people,  the  din- 
ner-party was  composed  of  the  Duchess  of  Suth- 
erland and  Lady  Elizabeth  L.  Gower,  Lord  and 
Lady  Carington,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Heathcote,  the  Duke 
de  Kichelieu,  Lord  Ossulston,  Mr.Drummond,  and 
the  officers  of  the  Guard. 


f 


!i 


Drummond  Castle,  Smiday,  September  11. 

We  walked  in  the  garden,  which  is  really  very 
fine,  with  i;eiTaces,  like  an  old  French  garden. 
Part  of  the  old  castle  and  the  archway  remains. 

.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  hai  prayers  in  the  draw- 
ing-room, which  were  read  by  a  young  clergyman, 
who  preached  a  good  sermon. 

It  poured  the  w^hole  afternoon,  and,  after  writ- 
ing, I  read  to  Albert  the  three  first  cantos  of  The 
Lay  of  the  Last  Mhistrel,  which  delighted  us  both ; 
and  then  we  looked  over  some  curious,  fine  old 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


47 


prints  by  Ridinger.  At  eight  we  dined.  The 
Duchess  of  Sutherland  and  Lady  Elizabeth  had 
gone;  but  Lord  and  Lady  Abercorn  and  Lord 
and  Lady  Kiunoull  and  their  daughter  added  to 
the  party. 


Mmiday^  Septemher  1 2. 

Albert  got  up  at  five  o'clock  to  go  out  deer- 
stalking. I  walked  out  with  the  Duchess  of 
Norfolk 

All  the  Highlanders  (Lord  Willoughby's  peo- 
ple, 110  in  number)  were  d  iwn  up  in  the  court, 
^oung  Mr.  Willoug!iby  and  Major  Drummond  be- 
ing at  their  head,  and  I  walked  round  with  Lady 
Willoughby.  All  the  arms  they  wore  belonged 
to  Lord  Willouglft>y ;  and  there  was  one  double- 
hilted  sword  which  had  been  at  the  battle  of 
Bannockhnrn.  I  hear  that  at  Dunkeld  there  were 
nearly  900  Highlanders,  500  being  Atliole  men  ; 
and,  altogether,  with  the  various  Highlanders  who 
were  on  guard,  there  were  1000  men. 

At  length — a  little  before  three — to  my  joy, 
Albert  returned,  dreadfully  sunburnt,  and  a  good 
deal  tired ;  he  had  shot  a  stag.  He  said  the  ex- 
ertion and  difficulty  were  very  great.  He  had 
changed  his  dress  at  a  small  farm-house.     GUn- 


48 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


artney  is  ten  miles  from  Drummorid  Castle;  he 
drove  there.  Campbell  of  Monzie  (pronounced 
"  Monie"),  a  young  gentleman  who  has  a  place 
near  here,  went  with  him,  and  was,  Albert  said, 
extremely  active.  To  give  some  description  of 
this  curious  sport,  I  will  copy  an  extract  from  a 
letter  Albert  has  written  to  Charles,*  giving  a 
short  account  of  it : 

^'Without  doubt  deer- stalking  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  of  pursuits.  There  is  not  a  tree 
or  a  bush  behind  which  you  can  hide  yourself  .  . 
One  has,  therefore,  to  be  constantly  on  the  alert 
in  order  to  circumvent  them,  and  to  keep  under 
the  hill  out  of  their  wind,  crawling  on  hands  and. 
knees,  and  dressed  entirely  in  gray." 

At  half  past  four  we  drove  out  with  Lady  Wil- 
loughby  and  the  Duchess  of  BuA;leuch.  We  drove 
through  Fern  Toioer  (belonging  to  the  widow  of 
the  first  Sir  D.  Baird),  where  we  stopped  the  car- 
riage ;  then  to  Ahercairny,  Major  Moray's.  We 
got  out  there  a  moment  to  look  at  the  very  fine 
house  he  is  building,  then  drove  home  by  Monzie 
(Campbell  of  Monzie's)  and  Sir  W.  Murray's,  and 
had  a  veiy  good  view  of  the  Highland  hills — a 
very  fine  day.  At  eight  we  dined.  The  Belha- 
vens,  Seftons,  Cravens,  Campbell  of  Monzie,  and 

*  My  half-brother,  Prince  Leiningen,  who  died  in  1856. 


%■ 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


49 


various  others,  composed  the  party.  After  dinner 
more  people  came — several  in  kilts ;  and  many 
reels  were  danced :  Campbell  of  Monzie  is  an  ex- 
ceedingly good  dancer.  We  danced  one  country 
dance — I  with  Lord  WilloughLy,  and  Albert  with 
Lady  Carington. 


n 


a 


mm 


Tuesday^  Septe7nher  13. 

We  had  to  start  early,  and  therefore  got  up 
soon  after  seven  o'clock ;  breakfast  before  eight. 
At  nine  we  set  off.  The  morning  was  very  foggy 
and  hazy.  We  passed  near  Lord  Strath allan's 
place,  and  stopped  for  a  moment  where  old  Lady 
Strathallan  was  seated.  Lord  Willoughby  rode 
with  us  the  whole  way  till  we  arrived  here.  Soon 
after  this  we  came  to  a  very  extraordinary  Roman 
encampment  at  ArdocJi,  called  the  "Lindrum." 
Albert  got  out,  but  I  remained  in  the  carriage, 
and  Major  Moray  showed  it  to  him.  They  say  it 
is  one  of  the  most  perfect  in  existence. 

We  changed  horses  at  Greenhaning^  and  passed 
through  Dunblane.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  reached 
Stirling.,  where  the  crowd  was  quite  fearful,  and 
the  streets  so  narrow  that  it  was  most  alarming ; 
:>nd  order  was  not  veiy  well  kept.  Up  to  the 
Castle,  the  road  or  street  is  dreadfully  steep :  we 

C 


50 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


:rJi 


I  I  Hi 


had  a  foot  procession  before  us  the  whole  way, 
and  the  heat  was  intense.  The  situation  of  the 
Castle  is  extremely  grand ;  but  I  prefer  that  of 
Mlinhurg  Castle.  Old  Sir  Archibald  Christie  ex- 
plained every  thing  to  us  very  well.  We  were 
shown  the  room  where  James  II.  killed  Douglas, 
and  the  window  out  of  which  he  was  thrown. 
The  ceiling  is  most  curious.  A  skeleton  was  found 
in  the  garden  only  twenty -five  years  ago,  and  there 
appei^rs  to  be  little  doubt  it  was  Douglas's.  From 
the  terrace  the  view  is  very  extensive,  but  it  was 
so  thick  and  hazy  that  we  could  not  see  the  High- 
land hills  well.  Sir  A.  Christie  showed  us  the 
field  of  the  battle  of  Bannockhurn;  and  the 
"  Knoll,"  close  under  the  walls  of  the  Castle,  from 
which  the  ladies  used  to  watch  the  tournaments : 
all  the  embankments  yet  reiliain.  We  also  saw 
Knox's  pulpit. 

We  next  passed  through  Falkirh,  and  changed 
horses  at  Callander  Parh,  Mr.  Forbes's,  both  he 
and  Sir  Michael  Bruce  having  ridden  with  us 
from  beyond  Stirling.  We  passed  Lord  Zetland 
on  the  road,  and  shortly  after  reaching  Linlith- 
gow, where  we  changed  horses.  Lord  Hopetoun 
met  us.  Unfortunately,  we  did  not  see  the  Palace, 
which,  I  am  told,  is  well  worth  seeing.  The  Duke 
of  Buccleuch  met  us  soon  after  this,  and,  accompa- 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


51 


nied  by  a  large  number  of  his  tenants,  rode  with 
us  on  horseback  to  Dalkeith.  We  changed  horses 
at  Ki7'hliston,  and  lastly  at  the  outskirts  of  Edin- 
hwg.  There  were  a  good  many  people  assembled 
at  Edinburg  ;  but  we  were  unable  to  stop.  We 
reached  Dalkeith  at  half  past  five. 

The  journey  was  65  miles,  and  I  was  very  tired, 
and  felt  most  happy  that  we  had  safely  anived 
here. 


:e 


Dalkeith,  Wednesday^  Sq>tember  14. 

This  is  our  last  day  in  Scotland ;  it  is  really  a 
delightful  country,  and  I  am  very  sorry  to  leave 
it.  We  walked  out  and  saw  the  fine  green-house 
the  Duke  has  built,  all  in  stone,  in  the  Renaissance 
style.  At  half  past  three  )'clock  we  went  out 
with  the  Duchess  of  Buccleuch,  only  Colonel  Bou- 
verie  riding  with  us.  We  drove  through  MehnUe 
Park,  and  through  one  of  the  little  collier  villages 
(of  which  there  are  a  great  many  about  Dalkeith), 
called  Loanhead,  to  Rosslyn. 

We  got  out  at  the  chapel,  which  is  in  excellent 
preservation ;  it  was  built  in  the  fifteenth  centuiy, 
and  the  architecture  is  exceedingly  rich.  It  is  the 
burying-place  of  the  family  of  Lord  Rosslyn,  who 
keeps  it  in  repair.     Twenty  Barons  of  Rosslyn  are 


52 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


buried  there  in  armor.  A  great  crowd  had  col- 
lected about  the  chapel  when  we  came  out  of  it. 

From  Itosslyn  we  then  drove  to  Hawthornden, 
which  is  also  beautifully  situated  at  a  great  height 
above  the  river.  To  our  great  surprise  we  found 
an  immense  crowd  of  people  there,  who  must  have 
run  over  from  Ilossly7i  to  meet  us. 

We  got  out,  and  went  down  into  some  of  the 
very  curious  caves  in  the  solid  rock,  where  Sir 
Alexander  Ramsay  and  his  brave  followers  con- 
cealed themselves,  and  held  out  for  so  long  a  time. 
The  Duchess  told  us  there  were  mary  of  these 
caves  all  along  the  river  to  JRosslyn. 

We  came  home  through  Bonnyrigg^  another 
collier  village,  and  through  Dalkeitli. 


Thui'sday^  Sefptemher  15. 
We  breakfasted  at  half  past  seven  o'clock,  and 
at  eight  we  set  off,  with  the  Duchess  of  Buccleuch, 
Lord  Liverpool,  and  Lord  Hardwicke  following. 
The  ladies  and  equerries  had  embarked  earlier. 
The  day  was  very  bright  and  fine.  The  arrange- 
ments in  Edinlntrg,  through  which  we  had  to 
pass,  were  extremely  well  managed,  and  excellent 
order  was  kept.  We  got  out  of  the  carriage  on 
the  pier,  and  went  at  once  on  board  the  "Tri- 


Life  in  the.  Highlands. 


58 


icli, 

ler. 

|ge- 

to 

mi 

Ion 

\\- 


dent,"  a  large  steam-boat  belonging  to  the  Gener- 
al Steam  Navigation  Company.  The  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Buccleuch,  Lady  J.  Scott,  the  Emlyns, 
Lord  Cawdoi,  and  Lady  M.  Campbell,  came  on 
board  with  us,  and  we  then  took  leave  of  them. 
Wj  both  thanked  the  Duke  and  Duchess  for  their 
extreme  kinaness,  attention,  and  hospitality  to  us, 
which  really  were  very  great — indeed,  we  had  felt 
ourselves  quite  at  home  at  Dalkeith. 

As  the  tair  shores  of  Scotland  receded  more  and 
more  from  our  view,  we  felt  quite  sad  that  this 
very  pleasant  and  interesting  tour  was  ever ;  but 
we  shall  never  forget  it. 

On  board  the  "  Trident"  (where  the  accommo- 
dation for  us  was  much  larger  and  better  than  on 
board  the  "  Royal  George,"  and  which  was  beau- 
tifully fitted  up)  were  Admiral  Sir  E.  Bruce,  a 
pleasant  old  man.  Commander  Bullock,  and  three 
other  officers.  The  '' Khadamanthus,"  with  some 
servants  and  carriages,  set  off  last  night,  as  w^ell  as 
the  "  Shearwater,"  with  Lord  Liverpool  and  Lord 
Hardwicke  on  board. 

The  "  Salamander"  (with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Anson 
on  board),  the  "Fearless,"  and  the  "•  Royal  George" 
yacht  set  off  at  the  same  time  with  us,  but  the 
wind  being  against  us,  we  soon  lost  sight  of  the 
yacht,  and,  not  very  long  after,  of  all  our  steam- 


64 


lAfe  171  the  Highlands, 


I  i 


l\ 


ers  except  the  "  Monarch,"  which  belongs  to  the 
General  Steam  Navigation  Company,  and  had 
some  of  our  horses  on  board.  It  started  nearly 
at  the  same  time,  and  was  the  only  one  which 
could  keep  up  with  us.  We  passed  TantaUon 
Castle^  a  grand  old  ruin  on  the  coast,  and  quite 
close  to  the  Bass  B,oc\  which  is  very  fine,  and 
nearly  opposite  TantaUon,  It  was  entirely  cov- 
ered with  sea-gulls  and  island  geese,  which  swarm 
in  thousands  and  thousands,  quite  whitening  its 
sides,  and  hovering  above  and  around  it. 

At  two  o'clock  we  passed  the  famed  St.  AWs 
Head,,  which  we  had  so  longed  to  see  on  our  first 
voyage  to  Scotland.  I  read  a  few  stanzas  out  of 
Marmion^  giving  an  account  of  the  voyage  of  the 
nuns  to  Holy  Island,,  and  saw  the  ruins  of  the 
convent  on  it;  then  Bamborougli  Castle,,  and  a 
little  farther  on  the  Feme  Islands.  We  were 
very  sorry  to  hear  that  poor  Grace  Darling  had 
died  the  night  before  we  passed  the  first  time. 


!£■ 


1 


Friday,  September  16„ 

We  heard  that  we  had  passed  Flamhorough 

Head  at  half  past  fiYQ  in  the  morning.     The 

"  Black  Eagle"  we  passed  at  half  past  eight  last 

night,  and  we  could  only  just  see  her  smoke  by 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


65 


the  time  we  came  on  deck.  At  half  past  nine 
I  followed  Albert  on  deck ;  it  was  a  fine,  bright 
morning.  We  had  some  coffee,  and  walked  about; 
we  were  then  quite  in  the  open  sea ;  it  was  very- 
fine  all  day.  At  five  we  were  close  to  the  ^'Rhad- 
amanthus,"  which  had  been  in  sight  all  day.  We 
had  a  very  pleasant  little  dinner  on  deck,  in  a 
small  tent  made  of  flags,  at  half  past  five.  We 
passed  Yarmouth  at  about  a  quarter  to  six — very 
flat  —  and  looking,  Albert  said,  like  a  Flemish 
town.  We  walked  up  and  down  on  deck,  ad- 
miring the  splendid  moonlight,  which  was  reflect- 
ed so  beautifully  on  the  sea. 

We  went  below  at  half  past  seven,  and  I  read 
the  fourth  and  fifth  cantos  of  The  Lay  of  the  Last 
Minstrel  to  Albert,  and  then  we  played  on  the 
piano. 


Saturday^  September  17. 
At  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  were 
awakened  by  loud  guns,  which,  however,  were 
welcome  sounds  to  us,  as  we  knew  that  we  were 
at  the  J^ore,  the  entrance  of  the  river.  About 
six  we  heard  the  "  Rhadamanthus"  had  just  pass- 
ed us,  and  they  said  we  were  lying  off  Southend, 
in  order  to  let  the  "  Black  Eagle"  come  up.  It 
was  a  very  bright  day,  though  a  little  hazy. 


56 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


The  shipping  in  the  river  looked  very  pretty 
as  we  passed  along.  At  ten  minutes  past  ten  we 
got  into  the  barge  and  landed.  The  Duchess  of 
Norfolk  and  Miss  Matilda  Paget  and  the  equer- 
ries were  all  there,  but  the  others  we  knew  noth- 
ing of.  Sir  James  Clark  had  been  on  board  the 
"  Trident"  with  us.  We  drove  off  at  once  to  the 
railway  terminus,  and  reached  Windsor  Castle  at 
half  past  twelve  o'clock. 


Visit  to  Blair  Athole. 

Monday  J  September  9, 1844. 
We  got  up  at  a  quarter  to  six  o'clock.  We 
breakfasted.  Mamma  came  to  take  leave  of  us ; 
Alice  and  the  baby*  were  brought  in,  poor  little 
things,  to  wish  us  "good-by."  Then  good  Bertief 
came  down  to  see  us,  and  VickyJ  appeared  as 
"voyageuse,"  and  was  all  impatience  to  go.  At 
seven  we  set  off  with  her  for  the  railroad,  Vis- 

*  Prince  Alfred,  then  only  five  weeks  old. 
f  Name  by  which  the  Prince  of  Wales  is  always  called 
in  his  family. 
X  Victoria,  Princess  Royal. 


^iHI 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


57 


countess  Canning  and  Lady  Caroline  Cocts  in 
our  carriage.  A  very  wet  morning.  We  got 
into  the  carriage  again  at  Paddingtoii^  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Woolwich,  v/liich  we  reached  at  nine. 
Vicky  was  safely  put  into  the  boat,  and  then 
carefully  carried  on  deck  of  the  yacht  by  Ren- 
wick  *  the  sergeant-footman,  whom  we  took  with 
us  in  the  boat  on  purpose.  Lord  Liverpool,  Lord 
Aberdeen,  and  Sir  James  Clark  met  us  on  board. 
Sir  Robert  Peel  was  to  have  gone  with  us,  but 
could  not,  in  consequence  of  his  little  girl  being 
very  ill. 


Blair  Athole,  Wednesday,  September  11. 
At  six  o'clock  we  inquired  and  heard  that  we 
were  in  the  port  oi  Dundee.  Albert  saw  our  oth- 
er gentlemen,  who  had  had  a  very  bad  passage. 
Tuesday  night  they  had  a  dreadful  storm.  Dun- 
dee is  a  very  large  place,  and  the  port  is  large  and 
open  ;  the  situation  of  the  town  is  veiy  fine,  but 
the  town  itself  is  not  so.  The  Provost  and  peo- 
ple had  come  on  board,  and  wanted  us  to  land 
later,  but  we  got  this  satisfactorily  arranged.  At 
half  past  eight  we  got  into  our  barge  with  Vicky, 

*  Now  pensioned :   promoted  to  Gentleman  Porter  in 
1854.     A  very  good  servant,  and  a  native  of  Galashiels. 

C  2 


58 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


:  ■ 


n 


W 


w 


w 

1 1 


and  our  ladies  and  gentlemen.  The  sea  was 
bright  and  blue ;  the  boat  danced  along  beauti- 
fully.    We  had  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  row. 

A  staircase,  covered  with  red  cloth,  was  arranged 
for  us  to  land  upon,  and  there  were  a  great  many 
people ;  but  every  thing  was  so  well  managed  that 
all  crowding  was  avoided,  and  only  the  Magis- 
trates were  below  the  platform  where  the  people 
were.  Albert  walked  up  the  steps  with  me,  1 
holding  his  arm  and  Vicky  his  hand,  amid  the 
loud  cheers  of  the  people,  all  the  way  to  the  car- 
riage, our  dear  Vicky  behaving  like  a  grown-up 
person — not  put  out,  nor  frightened,  nor  nervous. 
We  got  into  our  post-chaise,  and  at  the  same  time 
Renwick  took  Vicky  up  in  his  arms  and  put  her 
in  the  next  carriage  with  her  governess  and  nurse. 

There  was  a  great  crowd  in  Dundee^  but  every 
thing  was  very  well  managed,  and  there  would 
have  been  no  crowding  at  all,  had  not,  as  usual, 
about  twenty  people  begun  to  run  along  with  the 
carriage,  and  thus  forced  a  number  of  others  to 
follow.  About  three  miles  beyond  Dundee  we 
stopped  at  the  gate  of  Lord  Camperdown's  place: 
here  a  triumphal  arch  had  been  erected,  and  Lady 
Camperdown,  and  Lady  Duncan  and  her  little 
boy,  with  others,  were  all  waiting  to  welcome  us, 
and  were  very  civil  and  kind.     The  little  boy, 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


59 


le: 


IS, 


beautifully  dressed  in  the  Highland  dress,  was 
carried  to  Vicky,  and  gave  her  a  basket  with  fruit 
and  flowers.  I  said  to  Albert  I  could  hardly  be- 
lieve that  our  child  was  traveling  with  us — it  put 
me  so  in  mind  of  myself  when  I  was  the  "  little 
Princess."  Albert  observed  that  it  was  always 
said  that  parents  lived  their  lives  over  again  in 
their  children,  which  is  a  very  pleasant  feeling. 

The  country  from  here  to  Oiipar  Angus  is  very 
well  cultivated,  and  you  see  hills  in  the  distance. 
The  harvest  is  only  now  being  got  in,  but  is  very 
good,  and  every  thing  much  greener  than  in  M^- 
gland.  Nothing  could  be  quieter  than  our  jour- 
ney, and  the  scenery  is  so  beautiful !  It  is  very 
different  from  England:  all  the  houses  built  of 
stone ;  the  people  so  different — sandy  hair,  high 
cheek-bones ;  children  with  long  shaggy  hair,  and 
bare  legs  and  feet ;  little  boys  in  kilts.  Near  Dun- 
heldy  and  also  as  you  get  more  into  the  HigMands, 
there  are  prettier  faces.  Those  jackets  which  the 
girls  wear  are  so  pretty ;  all  the  men  and  women, 
as  well  as  the  children,  look  very  healthy. 

Cupar  Angus  is  a  small  place — a  village — 14 
miles  from  Dundee.  There  you  enter  Perthshire. 
We  crossed  the  River  IsUi^  which  made  me  think 
of  my  poor  little  dog  "  Isla."  For  about  five  or 
six  miles  we  went  along  a  very  pretty  but  rough 


60 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


ml 


KnI 


I  i 


I 

iii 

*!  nil 


cross-road,  with  the  Granvpiuns  in  the  distance. 
We  saw  Birnam  Wood  and  Sir  W.  Stewart's 
place  in  that  fine  valley  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river.  All  along  such  splendid  scenery,  and 
Albert  enjoyed  it  so  much — rejoicing  in  the  beau- 
ties of  nature,  the  sight  of  mountains,  and  the 
pure  air. 

The  peeps  oiDmikeld^  with  the  River  Tay  deep 
in  the  bottom,  and  the  view  of  the  bridge  and  ca- 
thedral, surrounded  by  the  high  wooded  hills,  as 
you  approached  it,  were  lovely  in  the  extreme. 
We  got  out  at  an  inn  (which  was  small,  but  very 
clean)  at  Dunkeldy  and  stopped  to  let  Vicky  have 
some  broth.  Such  a  charming  view  from  the  win- 
dow !  Vicky  stood  and  bowed  to  the  people  out 
of  the  window.  There  never  was  such  a  good 
traveler  as  she  is,  sleeping  in  the  carriage  at  her 
usual  times,  not  put  out,  no^-  frightened  at  noise 
or  crowds,  but  pleased  and  amused.  She  never 
heard  the  anchor  go  at  night  on  board  ship,  but 
slept  as  sound  as  a  top. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Dunheld,  which  is  20  miles 
from  Blaii\  and  15  from  Cu/par  Angus,  we  met 
Lord  Glenlyon  in  a  carriage ;  he  jumped  out,  and 
rode  with  us  the  whole  way  to  Blair — and  a  most 
beautiful  road  it  is.  Six  miles  on,  in  the  woods 
to  the  left,  we  could  see  Kinnaird  House,  where 


* 


I 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


61 


the  late  Lady  Glenlyon  (Lord  Glenlyon's  mother, 
who  died  about  two  or  three  months  ago)  used 
to  live.  Then  we  passed  the  point  of  Logierait, 
where  there  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  castle 
— the  old  Regality  Court  of  the  Dukes  of  Athole. 
At  Moulinearn  we  tasted  some  of  the  ''''Athole 
brose,"  which  was  l)rought  to  the  carriage. 

We  passed  Pitloelirie^  a  small  village,  FaskaUy^ 
a  very  pretty  place  of  Mr.  Butter's,  to  the  left,  and 
then  came  to  the  Pass  of  KilUecranMe^  w^hich  is 
quite  magnificent ;  the  road  winds  along  it,  and 
you  look  down  a  great  height,  all  wooded  on  both 
sides,  the  Garry  rolling  below  it.  I  can  not  de- 
scribe how  beautiful  it  is.  Albert  was  in  perfect 
ecstasies.  Lude^  Mr.  Mclnroy's,  to  the  right,  is 
very  pretty.  Blair  AtJiole  is  only  four  or  five 
miles  from  the  Killiecranhie  Pass.  Lord  Glen- 
lyon has  had  a  new  approach  made.  The  house 
is  a  large  plain  white  building,  surrounded  by 
high  hills,  which  one  can  see  from  the  windows. 
Lord  and  Lady  Glenlyon,  with  their  little  boy, 
received  us  at  the  door,  and  showed  us  to  our 
rooms,  and  then  left  us. 


'ii 


\ '' 


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i  ; 


If,  L 


Hi 


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G2 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Blair  Castle,  Blair  Atlwle, 
Thursday,  Septemhei 


•12.) 


We  took  a  delightful  walk  of  two  hours.  Im- 
mediately near  the  house  the  scenery  is  very 
wild,  which  is  most  enjoyable.  The  moment  you 
step  out  of  ihe  house  you  see  those  splendid  hills 
all  round.  We  went  to  the  left  through  some 
neglected  pleasure-grounds,  and  then  through  the 
wood,  along  a  steep  winding  path  overhanging 
the  rapid  stream.  These  Scotch  streams,  full  of 
stones,  and  clear  as  glass,  are  most  beautiful :  the 
peeps  between  the  trees,  the  depth  of  the  shadows, 
the  mossy  stones,  mixed  with  sh  te,  -etc.,  which 
cover  the  banks,  are  lovely;  at  every  turn  you 
have  a  picture.  We  were  up  high,  but  could  not 
get  to  the  top;  Albert  in  such  delight;  it  is  a 
happiness  to  see  him,  he  is  in  such  spirits.  We 
came  back  by  a  higher  drive,  and  then  went  to  the 
Factor's  house,  still  higher  up,  where  Lord  and 
Lady  Glenlyon  are  living,  having  given  Blair  up 
to  us.  We  walked  on  to  a  corn-field  where  a 
number  of  women  were  cutting  and  reaping  the 
oats  ("  shearing"  r.s  they  call  it  in  Scotlmid),  with 
a  splendid  view  of  the  hills  before  as,  so  rural  and 
romantic,  so  unlike  our  daily  Windsor  walk  (de- 
lightful as  that  is) ;  and  this  change  does  such 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


68 


good — as  Albert  observes,  it  refreshes  one  for  a 
long  time.  We  then  went  into  the  kitchen-garden, 
and  to  a  walk  from  which  there  is  a  magnificent 
view.  This  mixture  of  great  wildness  and  art  is 
perfection. 

At  a  little  before  four  o'clock  Albert  drove  me 
out  in  the  pony  phaeton  till  nearly  six — such  a 
drive!  Eeally  to  be  able  to  sit  in  one's  pony 
carriage,  and  to  see  such  wild,  beautiful  scenery 
as  we  did,  the  farthest  point  being  only  five  miles 
from  the  house,  is  an  immense  delight.  We  drove 
along  Glen  TiU^  through  a  wood  overhanging  the 
Eiver  Tilt^  which  joins  the  Garry ^  and  as  we  left 
the  wood  we  came  upon  such  a  lovely  ^^ew — 
Ben-y-Glilo  straight  before  us — and  under  these 
liigh  hills  the  Kiver  Tilt  gushing  and  winding 
over  stones  and  slates,  and  the  hills  and  mount- 
ains skirted  at  the  bottom  with  beautiful  trees — 
the  whole  lit  up  by  the  sun — and  the  air  so  pure 
and  fine ;  but  no  description  can  at  all  do  it  jus- 
tice, or  give  an  idea  of  what  this  drive  was. 

Oh !  what  can  equal  the  beauties  of  nature ! 
What  enjoyment  there  is  in  them !  Albert  en- 
joys it  so  much ;  he  is  in  ecstasies  here.  He  has 
inherited  this  love  for  nature  from  his  dear  father. 

We  went  as  far  as  the  Marhle  Lodge.,  a  keeper's 
cottage,  and  came  back  the  same  way. 


I  i:  :'■ 


m 


f  « 


i 


64 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Monday,  September  16. 

After  our  luncLeon  at  half  past  three,  Albert 
drove  me  (Lord  Glenlyon  riding  with  us)  to  the 
Falls  of  tlie  Brua/r.  We  got  out  at  the  road,  and 
walked  to  the  upper  falls,  and  down  again  by  the 
path  on  the  opposite  side.  It  is  a  walk  of  three 
miles  round,  and  a  very  steep  ascent;  at  every 
turn  the  view  of  the  rushing  falls  is  extremely 
fine,  and  looking  back  on  the  hills,  which  were  so 
clear  and  so  beautifully  lit  up,  with  the  rapid 
stream  below,  was  most  exquisite.  We  threw 
stones  down  to  see  the  effect  in  the  water.  The 
trees  which  surround  the  falls  were  planted  by 
the  late  Duke  of  Athole  in  compliance  with 
Burns's  "P^^^V^6>?^."* 

The  evening  was  beautiful,  and  we  feasted  our 
eyes  on  the  ever-changing,  splendid  views  of  the 
hills  and  vales  as  we  drove  back.  Albert  said 
that  the  chief  beauty  of  the  mountain  scenery  con- 
sisted in  its  frequent  changes.  We  came  home  at 
six  o'clock. 


'if- 


*  The  Mumble  Petition  of  Bruar  Water  to  the  Noble 
Duke  of  Athole. 


:-^;i 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


65 


id 
a- 
it 


Tuesday  J  Septemher  17. 

At  a  quarter  to  four  o'clock  we  drove  out,  Al- 
bert driving  me,  and  the  ladies  and  Lord  Glenlyon 
following  in  another  carriage.  We  drove  to  the 
Pass  of  Killiecranhie,  which  looked  in  its  greatest 
beauty  and  splendor,  and  appeared  quite  closed, 
so  that  one  could  not  imagine  how  one  was  to  get 
out  of  it.  We  drove  over  a  bridge  to  the  right, 
where  the  view  of  the  pass  both  ways,  with  the 
Garry  below,  is  beautiful.  We  got  out  a  little 
way  beyond  this  and  walked  on  a  mile  to  the 
Falls  of  the  Tum'^iel^  the  stream  of  which  is  fa- 
mous for  salmon :  these  falls,  however,  are  not  so 
fine,  or  nearly  so  high,  as  those  of  the  Bruar.  We 
got  home  at  half  past  six ;  the  day  was  fast  fading, 
and  the  lights  were  lovely. 

We  watched  two  stags  fighting  just  under  our 
window ;  they  are  in  an  inclosure,  and  roar  inces- 
santly. 


Ic 


Wednesday.,  Septemher  18. 
At  nine  o'clock  we  set  off  on  ponies  to  go  up 
one  of  the  hills,  Albert  riding  the  dun  pony  and 
I  the  gray,  attended  only  by  Lord  Glenlyon's  ex- 
cellent servant,  Sandy  McAra,  in  his  Highland 


l\ 


66 


|hii 

I!  Ill 


8^" 


vf 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


dress.  We  went  out  by  the  back  way  across  the 
road,  and  to  the  left  through  the  ford,  Sandy  lead- 
ing my  pony  and  Albert  following  closely,  the 
water  reaching  up  above  Sandy's  knees.  We 
then  went  up  the  hill  of  TuUochj  first  straight  up 
a  very  steep  cabbage-field,  and  then  in  a  zigzag 
manner  round,  till  we  got  up  to  the  top ;  the  po- 
nies scrambling  up  over  stones  and  every  thing, 
and  never  making  a  false  step ;  and  the  view  all 
round  being  splendid  and  most  beautifully  lit  up. 
We  went  up  to  the  very  highest  top,  which  can 
not  be  seen  from  the  house  or  from  below ;  and 
from  hei'e  the  view  is  like  a  panorama:  you  see 
the  Mills  of  tlie  Brum',  Ben-y-Chat^  Ben  Vrachie, 
Ben-y-GhlOj  the  Killiecranhie  Bass^  and  a  whole 
range  of  distant  hills  on  the  other  side,  which  one 
can  not  at  all  see  from  below.  In  the  direction 
of  Taymoutli  you  also  see  Balnacardoch^  the  first 
stage  from  Blair.  Blair  itself  and  the  houses  in 
the  village  looked  like  little  toys  from  the  great 
height  we  were  on.  It  was  quite  romantic.  Here 
we  were,  with  only  this  Highlander  behind  us 
holding  the  ponies  (for  we  got  off  twice  and 
walked  about) — not  a  house,  not  a  creature  near 
us,  but  the  pretty  Highland  sheep,  with  their 
horns  and  black  faces — up  at  the  top  of  Tullocli^ 
surrounded  by  beautiful  mountains. 


'M 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


67 


We  came  back  the  same  way  that  we  went,  and 
stopped  at  the  ford  to  let  the  ponies  drink  before 
we  rode  through.  We  walked  from  inside  the 
gate,  and  came  home  at  half  past  eleven — the  most 
delightful,  most  romantic  ride  and  walk  I  ever 
had.  I  had  never  been  up  such  a  mountain,  and 
then  the  day  was  so  fine.  The  hill  of  Tulloch 
is  covered  with  grass,  and  is  so  delightfully  soft 
to  walk  upon. 


Thursday^  September  19. 
Albert  set  off,  immediately  after  luncheon,  deer- 
stalking, and  I  was  to  follow  and  wait  below  in 
order  to  see  the  deer  driven  down.  At  four 
o'clock  I  set  off  with  Lady  Glenlyon  and  Lady 
Canning,  Mr.  Oswald  and  Lord  Charles  Wellesley 
riding,  by  the  lower  Gle7i  Tilt  drive.  We  stopped 
at  the  end,  but  were  still  in  the  wood ;  Sandy  was 
looking  out  and  watching.  After  waiting  we 
were  allowed  to  come  out  of  the  carriage,  and 
came  upon  the  road,  where  we  saw  some  deer  on 
the  brow  of  the  hill.  We  sat  down  on  the 
ground,  Lady  Canning  and  I  sketching,  and  Sandy 
and  Mr.  Oswald,  both  in  Highland  costume  (the 
same  that  they  all  wear  here,  viz.,  a  gray  cloth 
jacket  and  waistcoat,  with  a  kilt  and  a  Highland 


68 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


m 


It 


ti!ii 


ii 


bonnet),  lying  on  tlie  grass  and  looking  through 
glasses.  After  waiting  again  some  time,  we  were 
told  in  a  mysterious  whisper  that "  they  were  com- 
ing," and  indeed  a  great  herd  did  appear  on  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  and  came  running  down  a  good 
way,  when,  most  provokingly,  two  men  who  were 
walking  on  the  road — which  they  had  no  business 
to  have  done — suddenly  came  in  sight,  and  then 
the  herd  all  ran  back  again,  and  the  sport  was 
spoiled.  After  waiting  some  little  while  we  ob- 
served Albert,  Lord  Glenlyon,  and  the  keepers  on 
the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  we  got  into  the  carriage, 
drove  a  little  way,  went  over  the  bridge,  where 
there  is  a  shepherd's  "shiel,"  and  got  out  and 
waited  for  them  to  join  us,  which  they  did  almost 
immediately,  looking  very  picturesque  with  their 
rifles.  My  poor  Albert  had  not  even  fired  one 
shot  for  fear  of  spoiling  the  whole  thing,  but  had 
been  running  about  a  good  deal.  The  group  of 
keepers  and  dogs  was  very  pretty.  After  talking 
and  waiting  a  little  while,  we  walked  some  way 
on,  and  then  Albert  drove  home  with  us. 


Saturday^  Sej>temher  21. 
After  breakfast  Albert  saw  Lord  Glenlyon,  who 
proposed  that  he  should  go  deer-stalking,  and  that 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


69 


I  should  follow  him.  At  twenty  minutes  to  eleven 
we  drove  off  with  Lady  Canning  for  Glen  Tilt. 
The  day  was  glorious,  and  it  would  have  been  a 
pity  to  lose  it,  but  it  was  a  long,  hard  day's  work, 
though  extremely  delightful  and  enjoyable,  and 
unlike  any  thing  I  had  ever  done  before.  I  should 
have  enjoyed  it  still  more  had  I  been  able  to  be 
with  Albert  the  w^hole  time. 

We  drove  nearly  to  Peter  Fraser's  house,  which 
is  between  the  Alarble  Lodge  and  Forest  Lodge. 
Here  Albert  and  1  walked  about  a  little,  and 
then  Lady  Canning  and  we  mounted  our  ponies 
and  set  off  on  our  journey.  Lord  Glenlyon  leading 
my  pony  the  whole  way,  Peter  Fraser,  the  head- 
keeper  (a  wonderfully  active  man),  leading  the 
way ;  Sandy  and  six  other  Highlanders  carrying 
rifles  and  leading  dogs,  and  the  rear  brought  up 
by  two  ponies  with  our  luncheon-box.  Lawley,* 
Albert's  Jager,  was  also  there,  carrying  one  of  Al- 
bert's rifles ;  the  other  Albert  slung  over  his  right 
shoulder,  to  relieve  Lawley.  So  we  set  off,  and 
wound  round  and  round  the  hill,  which  had  the 
most  picturesque  effect  imaginable.    Such  a  splen- 

*  A  very  good  man.  His  health  obliged  him  to  give  up 
being  a  Jager  in  1848;  he  was  then  appointed  a  Pago,  in 
which  position  he  continued  till  he  died,  in  November, 
1865. 


70 


Life  in  the,  Highlands. 


i  I 


m  i 


did  view  all  round,  finer  and  more  extensive  the 
higher  we  went !  The  day  was  delightful,  but 
the  sun  very  hot.  We  saw  the  highest  point  of 
Ben-y-Glilo^  which  one  can  not  see  from  below, 
and  the  distant  range  of  hills  we  had  seen  from 
Tulloeh  was  beautifully  softened  by  the  slightest 
haze.  We  saw  Loch  Vacli.  The  road  was  very 
good,  and  as  we  ascended  we  had  to  speak  in  a 
whisper,  as  indeed  we  did  almost  all  day,  for  fear 
of  coming  upon  deer  unawares.  The  wind  was, 
however,  right,  which  is  every  thing  here  for  the 
deer.  I  wish  we  could  have  had  Landseer  with 
us  to  sketch  our  party,  with  the  background,  it 
was  so  pretty,  as  were  also  the  various  "  halts," 
etc.     If  I  only  had  had  time  to  sketch  them  ! 

We  stopped  at  the  top  of  the  Olirianan^  whence 
you  look  down  an  immense  height.  It  is  here 
that  the  eagles  sometimes  sit.  Albert  got  off  and 
looked  about  in  great  admiration,  and  walked  on 
a  little,  and  then  remounted  his  pony.  We  then 
went  nearly  to  the  top  of  Cairn  Clilaniain^  and 
here  we  separated,  Albert  going  off  with  Peter, 
Lawley,  and  two  other  keepers,  to  get  a  "  quiet 
shot "  as  they  call  it ;  and  Lady  Canning,  Lord 
Glenlyon,  and  I  went  up  quite  to  the  top,  which 
is  deep  in  moss.  Here  we  sat  down,  and  staid 
some  time  sketching  the  ponies  below.  Lord  Glen- 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


71 


liet 


lid 


Ij^oii  and  Sandy  remaining  near  us.  The  view- 
was  quite  beautiful,  nothing  but  mountains  all 
around  us,  and  the  solitude,  the  complete  soli- 
tude, very  impressive.  We  saw  the  range  of  Mar 
Forest  J  and  the  inner  range  to  the  left,  receding 
from  us  as  we  sat  facing  the  hill,  called  Scarsach, 
w^here  the  counties  of  Pertli^  Aherdeen^  and  Inver- 
ness join.  My  pony  was  brought  up  for  me,  and 
we  then  descended  this  highest  pinnacle,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  a  level  to  meet  Albert,  whom  I  descried 
coming  toward  us.  We  met  him  shortly  after; 
he  had  had  bad  luck,  I  am  sorry  to  say.  We  then 
sat  down  on  the  grass  and  had  some  luncheon ; 
then  I  walked  a  little  with  Albert,  and  we  got  on 
our  ponies.  As  we  went  on  toward  home  some 
deer  were  seen  in  Glen  Chroime,  which  is  called 
the  "Sanctum,"  where  it  is  supposed  that  there 
are  a  great  many.  Albert  went  off  soon  after 
this,  and  we  remained  on  Sron  a  Giro  for  an 
hour,  I  am  sure,  as  Lord  Glenlyon  said  by  so  do- 
ing we  should  turn  the  deer  to  Albert,  whereas 
if  we  went  on  we  should -disturb  and  spoil  the 
whole  thing.  So  we  submitted.  Albert  looked 
like  a  little  speck  creeping  about  on  an  opposite 
hill.  We  saw  four  herds  of  deer,  two  of  them 
close  to  us.     It  was  a  beautiful  sight. 

Meanwhile  I  saw  the  sun  sinking  gradually, 


72 


M 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


and  I  got  quite  alarmed  lest  we  should  be  be- 
nighted, and  we  called  anxiously  for  Sandy,  who 
had  gone  away  for  a  moment,  to  give  a  signal  to 
come  back.  We  then  began  our  descent, ''  squint- 
ing" the  hill,  the  ponies  going  as  safely  and  se- 
curely as  possible.  As  the  sun  went  down  the 
scenery  became  more  and  more  beautiful,  the  sky 
crimson,  golden-red,  and  blue,  and  the  hills  look- 
ing purple  and  lilac,  most  exquisite,  till  at  length 
it  set,  and  the  hues  grew  softer  in  the  sky  and 
the  outlines  of  the  hills  sharper.  I  never  saw 
any  thing  so  fine.  It  soon,  however,  grew  very 
dark. 

At  length  Albert  met  us,  and  he  told  me  he 
had  waited  all  the  time  for  us,  as  he  knew  how 
anxious  I  should  be.  He  had  been  very  unlucky, 
and  had  lost  his  sport,  for  the  rifle  would  not  go 
off  just  when  he  could  have  shot  some  fine  harts; 
yet  he  was  as  merry  and  cheerful  as  if  nothing 
had  happened  to  disappoint  him.  We  got  down 
quite  safely  to  the  bridge ;  our  ponies  going  most 
surely,  though  it  was  quite  dusk  when  we  were  at 
the  bottom  of  the  hill.  We  walked  to  the  Mavhle 
Lodge^  and  then  got  into  the  pony  carriage  and 
drove  home  by  very  bright  moonlight,  which  made 
every  thing  look  \  ery  lovely ;  but  the  road  made 
one  a  little  nervous. 


Life,  in  the  Highlands. 


78 


We  saw  a  flight  of  ptannigan,  with  thoir  white 
wings,  on  the  top  of  Sron  a  Cliro ;  also  plovers, 
grouse,  and  pheasants.  We  were  safely  home  by 
a  quarter  to  eight. 


very 


he 


m 


how 

ucky, 

M, 

ot  go 

1 

larts ; 

m 

thing 

M 

down 

'« 

most 
3re  at 

i 

^arhle 

)  and 

made 

made 

Tuesday^  October  1. 

At  a  quarter  past  eight  o'clock  we  started,  and 
were  very,  very  sorry  to  leave  Blair  and  the  dear 
Iliglilands  !  Every  little  trifle  and  every  spot  I 
had  become  attached  to ;  om-  life  of  (juiet  and  lib- 
erty, every  thing  was  so  pleasant,  and  all  the  High- 
landers and  people  who  went  with  us  I  had  got 
to  like  so  much.  Oh !  the  dear  hills,  it  made  me 
very  sad  to  leave  them  behind  1 

Lord  Glenlyon  rode  with  us,  and  we  went  back 
exactly  the  same  road  we  came — through  Killie- 
cranMe,  Pitlochrie,  saw  Logierait^  etc.  The  bat- 
tle of  Killiecranhie  was  fought  in  a  field  to  your 
left,  as  you  come  from  Blair  and  before  you  come 
to  the  pass ;  and  Lord  Dundee  was  shot  in  a  gar- 
den immediately  above  the  field  at  Urrard  (for- 
merly called  ^m?w^),  which  belongs  to  Mr.  Stew- 
art of  Urrard;  the  Stewarts  of  Urrard  used  for- 
merly to  live  on  Craig  Urrard.  We  reached 
Duiikdd  at  half  past  eleven.  Mr.  Oswald  and  Mr. 
Patrick  SmaU  Keir,  with  a  detachment  of  Iligh- 

D 


74 


II 


r^ai.l 


■An 

1!'! 
i  ■  ' 


Life  in  Hie  Highlands. 


landers,  were  there.  We  drove  up  to  the  door  of 
the  cottage  at  Duiikeld  and  got  out  there.  It  is 
beautifully  situated,  and  the  cottage  is  very  pret- 
ty, with  a  good  view  of  the  river  from  the  win- 
dows. Craig-y-Banu  is  a  fine  rocky  hill  to  the 
left  as  you  drive  from  Blair. 

We  walked  to  look  at  the  beginning  of  the  new 
liouse  which  the  late  Duke  of  Athole  commenced, 
but  which  has  been  left  unfinished,  and  also  at  a 
beautiful  larch-tree,  the  first  that  was  brought  to 
Scotland.  I  rode  back  on  "  Arghait  Bhean"^*  for 
the  last  time,  and  took  a  sad  leave  of  him  and  of 
faitliful  Sandy  McAra.  We  walked  into  the  ruins 
of  the  old  cathedral  and  into  that  part  which  the 
late  Duke  fitted  up  for  service,  and  where  there 
is  ji  fine  monument  of  him.  I  should  never  have 
recognized  the  grounds  oiBunheld,  so  different  did 
they  look  without  the  encampment.f  Beautiful 
as  Diuikeld  is,  it  does  not  approach  the  beauty 
and  wildness  of  Blair. 

After  twelve  o'clock  we  set  off  again,  and,  to 
our  astonishment,  Lord  Glenlyon  insisted  upon 
riding  on  with  us  to  Dundee,  which  is  50  miles 
from  Blair!  Captain  J.  Murray  also  rode  with 
us  from  Dunkeld.     It  made  me  feel  sad  to  see  the 

*  This  pony  was  given  to  me  by  the  Duke  of  Athole  in 
1847,  and  is  now  alive  at  Osborne.  f  Vide  page  36. 


I 


Life  in  the  llirjldands. 


76 


country  becoming  flatter  and  flatter.  There  was 
a  great  crowd  at  Ciq^ar  Angus^  and  at  Dundee  a 
still  larger  one,  and  on  the  pier  the  crush  was  very 

great. 

We  took  leave  of  Lord  Glenlyon  with  real  re- 
gret, and  he  seemed  quite  unhappy  at  our  going. 
No  one  could  be  more  zealous  or  kinder  than  he 

was. 

There  was  a  fearful  swell  when  we  went  in  the 
barge  to  the  yacht. 


Thirsday^  October  3. 

The  English  coast  appeared  terribly  flat.  Lord 
Aberdeen  was  quite  touched  when  I  told  him  I 
was  so  attached  to  the  dear,  dear  IligldandSj  and 
missed  the  fine  hills  so  much.  There  is  a  great 
peculiarity  about  the  Highlands  and  Highlanders, 
and  they  are  such  a  chivalrous,  fine,  active  people. 
Our  stay  among  them  was  so  delightful.  Inde- 
pendently of  the  beautiful  scenery,  there  was  a 
quiet,  a  retirement,  a  wildness,  a  liberty,  and  a  sol- 
itude that  had  such  a  charm  for  us. 

The  day  had  cleared  up  and  was  brigiit,  but 
the  air  very  heavy  and  thick,  quite  different  from 
the  mountain  air,  which  was  so  pure,  light,  and 
brisk.    At  two  o'clock  we  reached  Woolwich^  and 


76 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


shortly  after  diserabarked.  We  proceeded  straight 
to  the  railroad,  and  arrived  at  Windsor  Castle  at 
a  few  minutes  past  four. 


Wii 


Tour  round  the  West  Coast  of  Scotland, 
AND  Visit  to  Aedverikie. 

Wednesday  J  August  11, 1847. 

We  proceeded  from  the  Osborne  Pier  on  board 
the  yacht.  Our  two  eldest  children,  my  brother 
Charles,  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Norfolk,  Lord 
Grey  (Secretary  of  State),  Lady  Jocelyn,  General 
Wemyss,  Sir  James  Clark,  aiid  Miss  Hildyard, 
accompanied  us. 

We  have  with  us  the  following  steamers :  The 
"  Black  Eagle,"  "  Garland,"  "  Undine,"  "  Fairy," 
r.ud  "  Scourge"  (war  steamers).  The  two  equer- 
ries are  on  board  the  "  Black  Eagle." 

We  were  soon  under  weigh,  and  as  Osborne 
vanished  from  our  sight,  I  thought  of  our  poor 
children  left  behind. 


I 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


17 


The 


7> 


On  hoard  the  Vidoi'ia  and  Alherty 
in  Dartmouth  IIarho7\ 

Thursday  J  August  12. 
I  have  not  much  to  relate.  Our  voyage  has 
not  been  what  we  intended,  mats  l"ho7nme  propose 
et  Dieii  dispose;  for,  instead  of  being  at  Falmouth j 
we  are  only  at  Dartmouth  !  We  started  at  five 
o'clock,  aixd  soon  after  feU  the  vessel  stop,  and  on 
inquiring,  heard  that  the  fog  was  so  thick  it  was 
impossible  to  proceed.  At  last  Captain  Smithett 
was  sent  out  in  the  "  Garland"  to  report  on  the 
state  of  the  weather,  and  he  soon  returned,  say- 
ing that  all  was  clear  enough  to  proceed  outside 
The  NeedUs  (we  were  in  A  lum  Bay) ;  so  we 
started  again,  and  after  breakfast  we  came  en 
deck,  where  I  remained  working  and  talking, 
fee]ing  quite  unwell;  but  toward  one  the  ground 
swell  had  increased,  and  we  decided  to  run  into 
the  harbor  we  now  are  in. 


On  Board  the  Victoria  and  Albert^  ^ 
Milford  Haven,  South  Wales,       V     . 
Saturday,  August  14.  ) 
Arrived  here   this   afternoon   at  five.     I  will 
give  an  account  of  what  has  passed  since  leaving 


f  I 


"m 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Dartmouth.  Thursday  evening,  after  dining  witli 
Charles,  we  went  on  deck,  and  found  the  whole 
town  illuminated,  and  the  effect  of  its  curious 
high  houses  running  down  quite  into  the  still  sea, 
which  reflected  the  illumination,  was  lovely,  the 
night  being  so  fine  and  calm. 


,  Friday,  August  13. 

"We   started  at  four,  and  reached  the  Soilly 
Islands  at  three  in  the  afternoon;  it  had  been 


very  rough.  The  numerous  little  'rocky  islands, 
in  the  midst  of  which  we  a^e  lying,  are  very 
curious. 

8f.  Mary'' 8,  the  principal  island,  has  a  little 
town,  a  church,  and  a  small  harbor.  Exactly 
opposite,  on  the  Isle  of  Tresco,  is  Mr.  Smith's 
house :  he  has  the  lease  of  all  the  islands  from 
the  Duchy  of  Cornwall.  Farther  to  the  left  is 
8t,  AgneSy  with  a  light-house  and  innumerable 
rocks. 

Albert  (who,  as  well  as  Charles,  has  not  been 
unwell,  while  I  suffered  very  much)  went  with 


i  1 


?f  » 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


II 
1 


Charles  and  Bertie  to  see  one  of  the  islands.  The 
children  recover  from  their  sea-sickness  directly. 
When  Albert  and  the  others  returned,  soon  after 
five,  we  vi^ent  with  our  ladies  and  gentlemen  in 
the  barge  across  the  harbor — where,  blue  as  the 
sea  was,  it  was  still  rather  rough — and  landed  at 
a  little  pier  at  St.  Mary's.  The  harbor,  surmount- 
ed by  the  old  fort  of  the  Stai'  Castle,  reminded  me 
of  the  harbor  oi  St.Heliers.  We  got  into  a  pony 
carriage  belonging  to  Mr.  Smith,  with  Charles  and 
Lady  Jocelyn,  and  drove  through  the  place,  which 
looks  like  a  small  fishing  town,  and  then  round 
the  fortifications  of  the  castle,  where  there  is  a 
very  pretty  walk  overhanging  the  sea,  the  rock 
being  covered  with  fern,  and  heath,  and  furze. 
The  extensive  view  of  the  islands  and  rocks 
around  is  very  beautiful.  The  town  is  built 
upon  a  very  narrow  strip  of  land,  with  a  small 
bay  on  either  side.  We  got  out  at  the  old  cas- 
tle, which  bears  the  date  of  one  of  the  Edwf.rds. 
The  view  from  the  battlements  is  very  fine.  We 
returned  the  same  way  Ave  went,  a  little  before 
seven. 

Saturday,  August  \L 
We  started  at  five  o'clock,  and  the  yacht  then 
began  to  roll  and  pitch  dreadfully,  and  I  felt  again 


80 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


m 


m 


.  I 


m 

1 

1 

1   1 

i. 

f--- 

^  • 

■>. 

^  i 


very  unwell ;  but  I  came  on  deck  at  three  in  the 
afternoon ;  the  sea  then  was  like  glass,  and  we 
Avere  close  to  the  Welsh  coast. 

This  harbor,  Milford  Haven^  is  magnificent ; 
the  largest  "we  have ;  a  fleet  might  lie  here.  We 
are  anchored  just  off  Milford.  Pembroke  in  front, 
in  the  distance.  The  cliffs,  which  are  reddish- 
brown,  are  not  very  high.  Al- 
bert and  Charles  went  in  the  "  Fai- 
ry" to  Pemhrohe,  and  I  sketched. 
Numbers  of  boats  came  out,  with 
Welsh  women  in  their  cuiious 
high  -  crowned  men\s  hat,«  •  nnfl 
7"^BeFtie  was  much  cheered,  for  the 
people  seemed  greatly  pleased  to 
see  the  "  Prince  of  Wales."  Albert  returned  at 
a  quarter  to  eight. 

A  very  pretty  dairy-maid,  in  complete  Welsh 
costume,  was  brought  on  board  for  me  to  see. 
We  found  Milford  illuminated  when  we  went  on 
deck,  and  bonfires  burning  every  where. 


Simday,  Angnst  lo. 
"^76  started  again  at  four  o'clock,  but  this  time 
had  a  beautiful  day,  with  the   sea   smooth  the 
whole  way.    About  eleven  we  saw  the  mountain- 


■.<f^rk 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


81 


ous  coast  of  Caernarvonsliire ;  tlie  hills,  whicli 
are,  in  fact,  high  mountains,  are  bold  and  finely- 
shaped,  and,  Albert  said,  reminded  him  much 
of  Iscliia^  with  the  beautiful  deep  blue  sea  and 
bright  sky. 

Having  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  the  Menai 
StraitSj^YQ  all  left  the  "Victoria  and  Albert,"  and 
went  on  board  the  "  Fairy."  The  "  Victoria  and  Al- 
bert," with  the  "  Black  Eagle"  (the  two  equerries 
having  joined  us),  the  "  Undine,"  and  "  Scourge," 
proceeded  round  the  Isle  of  Anglesea  by  Holy- 
head^ and  in  the  "  Fairy,"  accompanied  by  the 
"  u-ariand,^^  we  went  into  tne  Siram.  As  we  en- 
tered,  the  view  of  the  fine  mountains,  with  their 
rich  verdure — Snoivdoii  rising  splendidly  in  the 
midst — and  of  the  fields  and  woods  below,  was 
reaUy  glorious.  To  the  left  the  country  is  ex- 
tremely flat.  Then  Caernarvon  came  in  sight, 
with  its  grand  old  castle  so  finely  situated.  We 
stopped  for  a  few  moments  off  here,  but  did  not 
land.  The  mountains  disappeared  for  a  while, 
and  then  reappeared  more  beautiful  than  ever. 
We  passed  close  to  Flas  Neioijdd^  where  we  had 
spent  six  weeks  fifteen  years  ago.  I  felt  as  if  I 
remembered  it  all  very  well,  but  admired  the 
scenery  even  more  than  I  had  expected  from  my 
previous  recollection.  .      ^ 

D2 


82 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


We  passed  the  famous  Swilly  liocTcs^  ana  saw 
the  works  they  are  making  for  the  tube  for  the 
railroad,  and  then  went  under  the  Menai  Bridge^ 
and  stopped  immediately  on  the  other  side. 
There  were  crowds  of  loyal  people  in  steamers 
and  boats,  playing  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  and 
cheering  tremendously.  Albert  and  Charles  land- 
ed and  walked  over  the  bridge.  When  they  re- 
turned we  went  on  again,  and  stopped  in  a  most 
beautiful  spot,  with  almost  Swiss  scenery,  oppo- 
site Penvhyn  Castle,  Colonel  Douglas  Pennant's 
(which  I  saw  in  the  la+^  possf  ?sor's  time  unfin- 
ished), and  near  Bangor,  with  its  wooded  banks, 
through  which  one  can  see  the  high  road  to  Beau- 
maris. The  purple  hills,  with  the  verdure  below, 
and  the  blue  sea,  were  extremely  picturesque. 

Albert  and  Charles  went  to  see  Penrhyn.  As 
soon  as  they  returned  we  dined  below  in  the 
"  Fairy,"  and  at  eight  we  returned,  with  the  chil- 
dren and  all  our  people,  to  the  "  Victoria  and  Al- 
bert"  The  evening  was  beautiful,  and  the  day 
very  successful. 


Monday,  August  16. 
We  woke  soon  after  four  o'clock,  when  getting 
under  weigh,  and  were  surprised  to  feel  the  yacht 
stop  not   an   hour   after.     Something  had  gone 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


m 


wrong  witli  the  paddle-wheel — -just  as  happened 
last  year—and  it  took  full  two  hours  to  set  it 
light.  Then  at  seven  we  started  afresh.  A  beau- 
tiful morning,  with  a  very  smooth  sea.  By  half 
past  ten  we  were  in  sight  of  the  Isle  of  Man, 
which  is  a  fine  island,  with  bold  hills  and  cliffs. 
A  little  before  twelve  we  reached  the  point  of  the 
bay  on  which  is  the  to^vn  of  Douglas,  very  pret- 
tily situated,  with  a  picturesque  castle  near  the 
light-house,  on  the  extreme  point  of  the  bay.  We 
stopped  off  here  for  ten  minutes  or  a  quarter  of 
an  hour — the  rocks  were  covered  with  people. 
From  Douglas  to  Damsay  Day  the  hills  and  cliffs 
are  high  and  bold,  though  Ramsay  itself  is  low. 

For  about  two  hours  we  were  out  of  sight  of 
land,  and  I  was  below  writing.  When  I  came  on 
deck  at  three  o'clock  the  Scotch  coast  w^as  quite 
close ;  the  Mull  of  Galloioay,  and  then  Wigtown- 
shire,  Albert  declared  he  saw  the  Irish  coast,  but 
I  could  not  descry  it.  At  ^\^,  we  came  in  sight 
.of  Loch  Dyan,  and  saw,  to  the  left,  Ailsa  Craig 
rising  more  than  1000  feet  perpendicularly  from 
the  sea.  Loch  Ryan  is  very  fine,  and  the  hills 
and  glens  are  lovely,  particularly  little  Glen  Fin- 
nie.  The  loch  is  very  large,  and  the  hills  here  are 
very  high  and  wooded.  The  little  town  is  called 
Stranraer,  .    . 


84 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


I 


IS;    I 


Tuesday  ^  August  17. 

At  six  o'clock  we  began  to  move.  A  beautiful 
morning.  At  about  eight  we  were  close  to  the 
Ailsa  llock  or  Craig ^  the  formation  of  which  is 
very  curious.  There  were  thousands  and  thou- 
sands of  birds  —  gannets  —  on  the  rock,  and  we 
fired  a  gun  off  three  times  in  order  to  bring  them 
in  reach  of  a  shot — Albert  and  Charles  tried,  but 
in  vain.  We  next  came  in  sight  of  the  beautiful 
Isle  of  Arran.  The  finest  point  is  when  you  are 
before  the  Hohj  Island^  and  in  sight  of  the  Goat- 
fell  range  of  mountains.  The  highest  is  about 
2800  feet :  they  are  peculiarly  fine  from  their  bold 
pointed  outlines.  Before  them  is  LamlasTi,  Aft- 
er passing  Holy  Island  we  came  to  Brodick  Bay, 
which  is  beautiful,  with. high  hills  and  a  glen;  in 
front  of  which,  and  surrounded  by  wood,  is  the 
castle  which  Lord  Douglas  is  building.  Not  long 
after  this  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Isle  of  Bute,  and 
entered  the  Clyde,  the  view  of  which  from  Mr. 
Stuart's  and  Lord  Bute's  property  is  beautiful: 
high  wooded  banks,  the  river  opening  out  and 
widening,  surrounded  by  the  distant  mountains. 
A  small  place  to  the  right  called  Largs  is  very 
prettily  situated. 

At  half  past  twelve  we  reached  Greenock,  the 


* 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


85 


port  of  Glasgoiv,  The  shore  and  the  ships  were 
crowded  with  people,  there  being  no  less  (as  I 
since  learned)  than  thirty-nine  steamers,  overfilled 
with  people,  which  almost  all  followed  lis !  Such 
a  thing  never  was  seen.  Add  to  these  steamers 
boats  and  ships  of  all  descriptions,  moving  in  all 
directions,  but  not  getting  out  of  the  way !  We, 
however,  got  safe  on  board  the  "  Fairy,"  and 
steamed  up  the  Clyde:  it  was  hazy,  and  i^e  could 
not  see  the  distance  well.  We  passed  the  small 
town  of  Port  Glasgoio^  and  about  one  o'clock 
were  at  Dumharton  Castle.  Its  situation  is  very 
fine,  the  rock  rising  straight  out  of  the  river,  the 
mountains  all  round,  and  the  town  oi  Dumharton 
behind  it,  making  it  very  picturesque.  We  land- 
ed just  })elow  the  Castle,  and  went  with  Charles 
and  the  children  in  a  carriage  to  the  fort.  There 
was  a  great  cro^vd,  but  excellent  order  kept.  We 
went  to  the  battery,  but  had  to  mount  many  steps 
to  get  to  it.  Wallace  was  confined  here ;  and  it 
was  one  of  the  last  castles  which  held  out  for 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots.  From  the  battery  there  is 
a  very  extensive  view  of  the  Clyde  and  iJimihar- 
ton,  and  we  ought  to  have  been  able  to  see  I^en 
Lomond,  but  it  was  in  mist. 

We  got  back  to  the  "  Fairy"  by  half  past  two, 
and  returned  to  Gre^noch,  escorted  by  nineteen 


hi 


m 


iii 


11 


ill! 


86 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


steamers.  Steamed  past  Greenock.,  and  went  on 
toward  Locli  Long.,  passing  Hoseneath  to  the  riglit, 
where  the  present  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Argyll 
live.  Loch  Long  is  indeed  splendid,  15  miles  in 
length,  surrounded  by  grand  hills,  with  such  beau- 
tiful outlines,  and  very  green — all  so  different 
trom  the  eastern  part  of  Scotland — the  loch  wind- 
ing along  most  beautifully,  so  as  to  seem  closed  at 
times.  Charles  said  it  reminded  him  of  Switzer- 
land and  the  Tyrol.  The  finest  point  of  Locli 
Long  is  looking  toward  Loch  Goil.  We  had  a 
very  good  sight  of  the  mountain  called  The  Coh- 
5/^r,the  top  of  which  resembles  a  man  sitting  and 
mending  his  shoe !  At  the  end  of  the  loch  we 
got  a  glimpse  of  Ben  Lomond,  and  were,  in  fact, 
very  near  Loch  Lomond. 

We  returned  as  we  eame.  There  was  no  sun, 
and  once  or  twice  a  little  mist,  but  still  it  was 
beautiful.  We  went  on  to  Mothsay,  which  we 
reached  at  eight  o'clock,  and  immediately  went  on 
board  the  "Victoria  and  Albert,"  greatly  tired,  but 
much  amused  and  interested. 

The  children  enjoy  every  thing  extremely,  and 
bear  the  novelty  and  excitement  wonderfully. 
The  people  cheered  the  "  Duke  of  Kothsay"*  very 

*  A  title  belonging  to  the  eldest  son  of  the  Sovereign 
of  Scotland,  and  therefore  held  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  as 


s^l 


i 


Life  in  the  Ilvjhlands. 


87 


much,  and  also  calLd  for  a  cheer  for  the  "Priucess 
of  Great  Britain."  Every  where  the  good  High- 
landers are  very  enthusiastic.  Hothsay  is  a  pretty 
little  town,  built  round  a  fine  bay,  ^vith  hills  in 
the  distance,  and  a  fine  harbor.  When  we  went 
on  deck  after  dinner,  we  found  the  whole  town 
brilliantly  illuminated,  with  every  window  lit  up, 
which  had  a  very  pretty  effect. 


i 


Wednesday^  Augiist  18. 
A  bright  fresh  morning,  the  hills  slightly  tipped 
with  clouds.  At  eight  o'clock  we  all  went  on 
board  the  "Fairy,"  and  went  up  the  KyUs  of  .Bvte, 
which,  as  you  advance,  become  very  fine,  the  hills 
lying  so  curiously  one  behind  the  other,  sometimes 
apparently  closing  up  all  outlet. 


oldefit  son  of  the  Queen,  the  representative  of  the  ancient 
Kings  of  Scotland, 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  .^AIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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88 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


!i  ri 


"We  saw  Arran  to  the  left,  looking  very  grand 
in  tlie  distance.  We  have  been  turning  about  a 
good  deal  since  yesterday,  for  we  went  by  Arran 
and  Holy  Island,  and  then  left  Little  and  Great 
Cumhray  to  our  left,  and  went  up  to  Dnmharton 
and  back,  and  on  to  Locli  Long,  and  then  to  Itoth- 
say , leaving  Arra7i  to  our  left;  then,  after  passing 
Arran,  we  entered  Locli  lyne.  I,  however,  had  a 
headache,  and  was  obliged  to  lie  down  below,  and 
only  came  on  deck  again  when  v/e  were  within  an 
hour  oilnverary,  where  the  lake  widens,  and  the 
hills  on  either  side  are  very  green  and  undulat- 
ing, but  not  veiy  high. 

The  approach  to  Inverary  is  splendid ;  the  loch 
is  very  wide ;  straight  before  you  a  fine  range  of 
mountains  splendidly  lit  up — green,  pink,  and 
lilac;  to  the  left, the  little  town  oi Inverary  ;  and 
above  it,  surrounded  by  pine  woods,  stands  the 
Castle  of  Inverary,  square,  with  turrets  at  the 
corners. 

Our  reception  was  in  the  true  Highland  fash- 
ion. The  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Argyll  (dear 
Lady  Elizabeth  Leveson  Gower),  the  Duchess  of 
Sutherland,  Lord  Stafford,  Lady  Caroline  Leveson 
Gower,  and  the  Blantyres,  received  us  at  the  land- 
ing-place, which  was  all  ornamented  with  heather. 
The  Celtic  Sociery,  including  Campbell  of  Islay, 


I 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


89 


his  two  sons  (one  grown  up  and  the  other  a  very 
pretty  little  boy),  with  a  number  of  his  men,  and 
several  other  Campbells,  were  all  drawn  up  near 
to  the  carriage.  We  got  into  a  carriage  with  the 
two  Duchesses,  Charles  and  the  Duke  being  on 
the  box  (we  had  left  the  children  on  board  the 
"  Fairy"),  and  took  a  beautiful  drive  among  mag- 
nificent trees,  and  along  a  glen  where  we  sawJ^en 
81ieerai\  etc.  The  weather  was  particularly  fine, 
and  we  were  much  struck  by  the  extreme  beauty 
oilnverary.^  presenting  as  it  does  such  a  combina- 
tion of  magnificent  timber,  with  high  mountains, 
and  a  noble  lake. 

The  pipers  walked  before  the  carriage,  and  the 
Highlanders  on  either  side,  as  we  approached  the 
house.  Outside  stood  the  Marquis  of  Lorn,  just 
two  years  old,  a  dear,  white,  fat,  fair  little  fellow 
with  reddish  hair,  but  very  delicate  features,  like 
both  his  father  and  mother :  he  is  such  a  merry, 
independent  little  child.  He  had  a  black  velvet 
dress  and  jacket,  with  a  "  sporran,"  scarf,  and  High- 
land bonnet.  We  lunched  at  tw^o  with  our  hosts, 
the  Highland  gentlemen  standing  with  halberds 
in  the  room.  We  sent  for  our  children,  who  ar- 
rived during  luncheon  time.  We  left  Iiiverary 
before  three,  and  took  the  children  with  us  in  the 
carriage.     The  Argylls,  the  Duchess  of  Suther- 


90 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


land,  and  the  others,  accompanied  us  on  board  the 
"  Fairy,"  where  we  took  leave  of  them. 

The  light  on  the  hills  was  beautiful  as  we 
steamed  down  Loch  Fyne.  At  five  we  reached 
LocJigilp^  and  all  landed  at  Locligilplieadj  a  small 
village  where  there  were  numbers  of  people,  and, 
among  others.  Sir  John  P.  Orde,  who  lent  his  car- 
liage  and  was  extremely  civil.  We  a:nd  our  peo- 
ple drove  through  the  village  to  the  Crinan  Canal, 
where  we  entered  a  most  magnificently  decorated 
barge,  drawn  by  three  horses,  ridden  by  postillions 
in  scarlet.  We  glided  along  very  smoothly,  and 
the  views  oi"  the  hills — the  range  of  Cruaclian — 
were  very  fine  indeed ;  but  the  eleven  locks  we 
had  to  go  through — (a  very  curious  process,  first 
passing  several  by  rising,  and  then  others  by  go- 
ing down) — were  tedious,  and  instead  of  the  pas- 
sage lasting  one  hour  and  a  half,  it  lasted  upward 
of  two  hours  and  a  half,  therefore  it  was  nearly 
eight  o'clock  before  we  reached  Loch  Crinan. 
We  instantly  went  on  board  the  "Victoria  and 
Albei-t,"  but  it  was  too  late  to  proceed  to  Ohan  ; 
we  had,  therefore,  to  lengthen  our  voyage  by  a 
day,  and  spent  the  night  at  Crinan.  It  is  a  very 
fine  spot,  hills  all  round,  and,  in  the  distance,  those 
of  the  island  of  Jwa.  The  yacht  had  had  a  good 
passage  round  the  Mull  of  Cantire.    We  dined 


$  I 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


91 


with  Charles,  and  went  on  deck ;  and  the  blaze 
of  the  numerous  bonfires  —  the  half  moon,  the 
stars,  and  the  extreme  stillness  of  the  night — had 
a  charming  effect. 


Tlmi'sday,  August  19. 

A  beautiful  day.  At  nine  o'clock  we  left  Cri- 
nan,  proceeding  to  the  right,  up  splendid  passes, 
with  myriads  of  islands,  and  such  enchanting 
views  that  I  can  not  enumerate  them.  We  pass- 
ed first  up  the  So^tnd  of  Jura,  where  numbers  of 
peoj)le  hiet  us  in  small  boats  decorated  with  little 
flags ;  then  up  the  Pass  of  Kerrera  to  Ohan,  one 
of  the  finest  spots  we  have  seen,  with  the  ruins 
of  the  old  Castle  of  DunoUy  and  a  range  of  high 
mountains  in  the  distance.  To  the  left,  after  leav- 
ing Chan,  we  saw  the  Isle  of  Kerrera,  and  t'^  the 
right  Dunstaffnage  Castle,^Yhellce  came  the  famous 
stone  which  supports  the  ''  Coronation  Chair,"  in 
which  the  sovereigns  are  crowned  at  Westminster 
Abbey.  Alexander  II.  is  said  to  be  buried  here. 
We  passed  close  by  the  flat  rock,  called  TheZady^s 
Hoch,  on  which  a  McLean  left  his  wife,  hoping  she 
would  be  washed  away — she  was  saved,  however. 

We  then  came  into  the  Souiid  of  Mull  by  To- 
bermory, a  small  place  prettily  situated,  and  from 


92 


Lijk  in  the  Highlands. 


thence  the  views  continued  beautiful.  At  one 
o'clock  we  were  in  sight  of  the  Isles  of  Rum^Eig^ 
and  Mack  (rather  large  islands,  which  Lord  Salis- 
bury bought  a  few  years  ago).  Next  we  passed 
the  long,  flat,  curious  islands  of  Coll  and  Tiree. 
The  inhabitants  of  these  islands  have,  unhappily, 
been  terrible  sufferers  during  the  last  winter  from 
famine.  A  little  farther  on  we  saw,  to  our  right, 
the  Tresliinislh  IsleSj  very  curiously-shaped  rocks : 
one  is  called  TJie  Dutclimcm^s  Cap^  and  has  the 
most  strange  shape, thus: 


x\t  three  we  anchored  close  before  Staff a^  and 
immediately  got  into  the  barge  with  Charles,  the 
children,  and  the  rest  of  our  people,  and  rowed 
toward  the  ca\  e.  As  we  rounded  the  point,  the 
wonderful  basaltic  formation  came  in  sight.  The 
appearance  it  presents  is  most  extraordinary ;  and 
when  we  turned  the  corner  to  go  into  the  re- 
nowned FingaVs  Cave^  the  effect  was  splendid, 
like  a  great  entrance  into  a  vaulted  hall :  it 
looked  almost  awful  as  we  entered,  and  the  barge 
heaved  up  and  down  on  the  swell  of  the  sea.  It 
is  very  high,  but  not  longer  than  227  feet,  and 


Lift  in  the  Highlands. 


9a 


narrower  than  1  expected,  being  only  40  feet 
wide.  The  sea  is  immensely  deep  in  the  cave. 
The  rocks,  under  water,  were  all  colors — pink, 
blue,  and  green — which  had  a  most  beautiful  and 
varied  effect.  It  was  the  first  time  the  British 
standard,  with  a  Queen  of  Great  Britain,  and  her 
husband  and  children,  had  ever  entered  FingaVs 
Cav€j  and  the  men  gave  three  cheers,  which 
sounded  very  impressive  there.  We  backed  out, 
and  then  went  on  a  little  farther  to  look  at  the 
other  cave,  not  of  basaltic  formation,  and  at  the 
point  called  TJie  Herdsman.  The  swell  was  be- 
ginning to  get  up,  and  perhaps  an  hour  later  we 
could  not  have  gone  in. 

We  returned  to  the  yacht,  but  Albert  and 
Charles  landed  again  at  Staffa.  They  returned 
in  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  and  we  then  went 
on  to  Io,ia :  here  Albert  and  Charles  landed,  and 
were  absent  an  hour.  I  and  the  ladies  sketched. 
We  saw  from  the  yacht  the  ruins  of  the  old 
cathedral  oiSt.  Oran.  When  Albert  and  Charles 
returned,  they  said  the  ruins  were  very  curious : 
there  had  been  two  monasteries  there,  and  fine  old 
crosses  and  tombs  of  ancient  kings  were  still  to 
be  seen.  I  must  see  it  some  other  time.  On  Al- 
bert's return  we  went  on  again,  and  reached  To- 
hermory  at  nine.    The  place  was  all  illuminated. 


94 


Life  in  the  IlifjJdands. 


\.Z-. 


i 


Friday^  August  20. 

A  wet  morning  when  we  rose  at  half  past 
seven,  and  it  was  pouring  with  rain  when  we  left 
Tohermory  at  half  past  eight.  I  went  down,  and 
drew  and  painted.  It  cleared  up  about  half  past 
ten,  and  I  came  on  deck.  The  scenery  in  Loch 
Linnhe  was  magnificent — such  beautiful  mount- 
ains. From  Loch  Linnhe  we  entered  Loch  Eil, 
and  passed  the  entrance  of  Loch  Leven  to  the 
right,  at  the  end  of  which  is  Glencoe,  so  famous 
for  its  beautiful  scenery,  and  for  the  horrible  mas- 
sacre of  the  Macdonalds  in  William  III.'s  time. 

A  little  before  one  we  arrived  at  Fort  William, 
a  very  sipall  place.  The  afternoon  was  very 
bright,  and  the  scenery  fine.  After  luncheon 
Albert  and  Charles  set  off  in  the  "  Fairy"  to  see 
Glencoe.  They  returned  at  twenty  minutes  past 
seven,  and  Albert  thought  Glencoe  was  very  fine, 
though  not  quite  so  much  so  as  he  had  expected. 
They  had  driven  in  an  extraordinary  carnage, 
with  seats  for  thirty.  The  people,  who  recog- 
nized Albert,  were  so  loyal  that  they  took  the 
horses  out  and  insisted  on  drawing  the  carriage. 

The  evening  was  excessively  cold  and  showery. 

I  am  quite  sorry  we  shall  have  to  leave  our 
yacht  to-morrow,  in  which  we  have  been  so  com- 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


95 


fortably  Loused,  and  that  this  delightful  voyage 
and  tour  among  the  AVestern  Lochs  and  Isles  is 
at  an  end — they  are  so  beautiful,  and  so  full  of 
poetry  and  romance,  traditions,  and  historical  as- 
sociations. 


ArdvenMe,  Loch  Laggan,  \ 
Sat urday,  A ugust  21.  ) 
Alas!  a  very  wet  morning.  We  were  ready 
long  before  nine  o'clock,  I'ut  had  to  wait,  as  our 
carriages  were  not  ready.  At  last  we  all  landed 
at  Foi't  William,  where  thcrre  was  a  great  gather- 
ing of  Highlanders  in  theii'  different  tartans,  with 
Lord  Lovat  and  Mr.  Stuart  Mackenzie  at  their 
head.  We  got  into  our  carriage  with  Charles  and 
the  two  children ;  there  was  a  great  crowd  to  see 
us  off.  We  went  by  a  very  wild  and  lonely  road, 
the  latter  part  extremely  fine,  with  mountains 
and  streams  that  reminded  us  of  Gle7i  Tilt.  We 
changed  horses  only  once,  and  came  at  length  in 
sight  oiLocli  Laggan.  It  is  a  beautiful  lake  (small 
in  comparison  to  what  we  have  seen)  surrounded 
by  very  fine  mountains:  the  road  by  its  side  is 
extremely  pretty.  We  saw  Lord  Abercorn's 
house  of  Ardverikie  long  before  we  came  to  it. 
At  Laggan  there  is  only  a  small  inn,  and  at  the 
end  of  the  lake,  r  ferry.     Here,  in  spite  of  the 


96 


Life  in  the  Hiffhlands. 


ii  ti 


pouring  rain,  were  assembled  a  number  of  High- 
landers, with  Macpherson  of  Cluny  (always  call- 
ed Cluny  Macpherson)  and  three  dear  little  boys 
of  his,  Davidson  of  Tulloch,  and  others,  with  Lord 
Abercorn,  in  full  Highland  dress.  We  stepped 
out  of  our  carriage  and  stood  upon  the  floating 
bridge,  and  so  crossed  over  in  two  or  three  min- 
utes. We  then  drove  on,  in  our  pony  carriages, 
to  Archerikie,  and  arrived  there  in  ubout  twenty 
minutes.  It  is  quite  close  to  the  lake,  and  the 
view  from  the  windows,  as  I  now  write,  though 
obscured  by  rain,  is  very  beautiful,  and  extremely 
wild.  There  is  not  a  village,  house,  or  cottage 
within  four  or  ^ve  miles :  one  can  only  get  to  it 
by  the  ferry,  or  by  rowing  across  the  lake.  The 
house  is  a  comfortable  shooting  lodge,  built  of 
stone,  with  many  nice  rooms  in  it.  Stags'  horns 
are  placed  along  the  outside  and  in  the  passages, 
and  the  walls  of  the  drawing-room  and  anteroom 
are  ornamented  with  beautiful  drawings  of  stags, 
by  Landseer. 

There  is  little  to  say  of  our  stay  at  Ardverihie  ; 
the  country  is  very  fine,  but  the  weather  was 
most  dreadful. 

On  the  28th,  about  five  o'clock,  Albert  drove 
me  out  across  the  ferry,  along  the  Kingussie  road, 
and  from  here  the  scenery  v/as  splendid :  high 


I 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


97 


bold  hills,  with  a  good  deal  of  wood ;  glens,  with 
the  Pattock^  and  a  small  waterfall;  the  moadows 
here  and  there,  with  people  making  hay,  and  cotta- 
ges sprinkled  sparingly  about,  reminded  us  much 
of  Thiwingen.  We  drove  to  the  small  farm  where 
Colonel  Macpherson  now  lives,  called  Strathna- 
shiey  and  back  again,  16  miles  in  all.  We  were 
delighted  with  the  scenery,  which  is  singularly 
beautiful,  wild,  and  romantic,  with  so  much  fine 
wood  about  it,  which  greatly  enhances  the  beau- 
ty of  a  landscape. 


Thursday  y  September  16. 
Albert  left  at  six  this  morning  to  go  to  Iiiver 
ness  and  see  the  Caledonian  Canal. 


Friday  y  September  17. 
At  tv/o  o'clock  I  left  Ardverikie  with  the  chil- 
dren, and  reached  Fort  William  at  half  past  six, 
where  I  had  the  happiness  of  finding  Albert  on 
board  the  yacht.  All  had  gone  off  well ;  but  the 
weather  had  been  very  bad.  Albert  said  Dock- 
four  was  beautiful,  the  house  new  and  very  ele- 
gant, with  a  fine  garden,  and  Mr.  and  Lady  Geor- 
gina  Baillie  very  pleasant  people. 

E 


wr 


1 


I 


98 


Life  in  the  Uigldamls. 


Albert  had  to  go  to  InvernesSy  and  to  stay  for  a 
ball  that  was  held  there ;  and  he  was  every  where 
extremely  well  received.  This  morning  he  saw 
the  Falls  of  Foyer s^  which,  he  tells  me,  are  veiy 
grand  indeed,  and  of  a  great  height ;  and  he  says 
that  the  Caledonian  Canal  is  a  most  remarkable 
work. 


jit 


'^ 


s 


Loch  By an^  Saturday ySejytemherl^. 
At  five  o'clock  we  left  Fort  William.  Rather 
a  fine  morning,  but  very  squally,  and  the  sea 
rough,  even  where  we  were.  When  we  came  on 
deck  we  were  close  to  the  Isle  of  Jtcra,  which  has 
such  a  fine,  bold  outline.  We  went  on  to  ZocJi 
Grinan^  where  we  got  into  the  barge :  here  it  was 
very  rough  and  pouring  with  rain,  so  unlike  the 
beautiful  evening  when  w^e  were  here  a  month 
ago.  We  landed  at  Grinan.  Mr.  Malcolm,  whose 
castle  is  just  opposite,  received  us  there,  and  we 
entered  the  canal -boat  at  ten.  We  proceeded 
more  quickly  than  the  last  time  ;  the  people  kept 
running  along  as  before,  and  there  was  a  piper  at 
each  lock.  It  rained  almost  the  whole  time.  We 
reached  Locligilpliead  at  twelve,  in  pouring  rain, 
and  embarked  on  board  the  *'  Black  Eagle."  The 
yacht  had  again  to  go  round  the  Mull  of  Cantire 


?. 

) 


i-iijvi' 


Life  ill  the  Uijldands. 


1)0 


an^  meet  us  at  Campheltown,     What  a  contrast 
to  the  weather  ^ve  liad  when  we  came ! 

We  got  under  ^veigh,  and  proceeded  by  Kil- 
hrannan  Sound  and  Arran.  We  went  on  deck 
for  a  little  while,  but  were  driven  below  by  the 
rain ;  later,  however,  it  was  possible  to  keep  on 
deck.  We  reached  Camfpheltoicn^  a  small  and  not 
I)retty  place,  at  the  foot  of  Cantire,  at  twenty  min- 
utes to  five.  About  half  an  hour  after  we  arrived 
the  yacht  came  in,  with  the  "Garland,"  "Fairy," 
and  "Scourge,"  and  we  immediately  w^ent  on 
board.  They  had  had  a  very  bad  passage,  and 
Captain  Crispin  said  he  was  very  glad  that  w^e 
had  not  been  on  board  the  "Victoria  and  Albert." 
This  rather  alarmed  us  for  the  next  day's  voyage, 
the  more  so  as  the  evening  was  squally  and  the 
sky  very  unpromising.  There  was  a  long  consul- 
tation as  to  what  was  to  be  done,  and  at  last  it 
was  decided  that  we  should  start  at  four  in  the 
morning,  and  if  it  were  very  rough,  we  should 
either  run  into  Loch  Ryan,  the  Mull  of  Galloivay, 
the  Bay  of  Eamsay,  or  into  Douglas  in  the  Isle 
of  Man. 


Loch  Ryan,  Sunday,  September  19. 
We  set  off  at  four  o'clock,  the  yacht  rolling 
considerably ;   but  it  was  quite  bearable ;   how- 


n 


100 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


ever,  at  seven  they  came  to  shut  down  tlie  port- 
lioleo,  expecting  a  heavy  sea,  and  Lord  Adolphus 
saw  Albert,  who  had  just  got  up,  and  said  it 
would  be  ^:"ery  rough ;  upon  which  it  was  de- 
cided to  put  back  a  little  Avay,  and  to  go  into 
Loch  Hyan ;  we  accordingly  did  so,  and  anchor- 
ed there  at  half  past  eight — such  a  dreary,  rainy 
day — one  could  hardly  recognize  what  was  so 
fine  when  we  were  last  in  here. 

Both  now,  and  the  time  before  when  we  were 
in  Loch  Hyan,  Lord  Orkney  very  civilly  sent  us 
game  and  all  sorts  of  things. 

At  twelve  o'clock  Lord  Adolphus  read  the 
short  sea  service.  We  then  talked  over  our  voy- 
age, and  w^hat  could  be  done ;  the  day  w^as  very 
wretched,  pouring  with  rain  and  blowing  hard. 
It  was  at  last  decided  tx)  start  again  at  three,  and 
get  this  evening  to  the  Mull  of  Galloivay^  \^hich 
would  only  take  us  three  hours,  though  it  would 
probably  be  rough.  As  soon  as  we  were  out  of 
the  loch  the  yacht  began  to  pitch,  and  the  sea 
was  dreadfully  rough.  I  was  very  ill.  Albert, 
however,  stood  it  perfectly,  and  the  children  very 
tolerably.  Presently  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
Mull  of  Galloway,  a  great  rock  v*^ith  a  light-house 
on  it ;  and  this  was  our  last  glimpse  of  dear  Scot- 
land. ^ 


ii  1 1 


■f 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


101 


Monday^  Septemher  20. 

At  six  o'clock  we  got  under  weigh,  and  after 
considerable  "rockings,"  wliicli  lasted  for  neai'ly 
two  hours,  we  were  near  the  Isle  of  Man,  in 
smooth  water,  and  at  half  past  eight  anchored  in 
Hamscuj  Bay. 

Albert  went  on  shore,  and  meantime  the  Bish- 
op of  Sodor  and  Man,  with  others,  came  on  board. 
Albert  returned  at  twelve.  At  one  o'clock  we 
started  again.  We  had  to  go  slowly  at  first,  as 
our  paddle-wheel  again  got  wrong,  and  because 
we  should  otherwise  have  arrived  before  we  were 
expected. 

We  anchored,  at  seven  in  Fleetivood  Harbor ; 
the  entrance  was  extremely  narrow  and  difficult. 
We  were  lashed  close  to  the  pier,  to  prevent  our 
being  turned  by  the  tide;  and  when  I  went  on 
deck  there  was  a  great  commotion,  such  running 
and  calling,  and  pulling  of  ropes,  etc.  It  was  a 
cheerless  evening,  blowing  hard. 


Tuesday,  Septemher  21. 
At  ten  o'clock  we  landed,  and  proceeded  by 
rail  to  London. 


f 


!i 


|i!l 


! 


LIFE  IN  THE  HIGHLANDS, 


1848   TO    1861. 


Land  of  brown  heath  and  shaggy  wood, 

Land  of  the  mountain  and  the  flood, 

Land  of  my  sires !  what  mortal  hand 

Can  e'er  untie  the  fihal  band 

That  knits  me  to  thy  rugged  strand ! 

Still,  as  I  view  each  well-known  scene, 

Think  what  is  now,  and  what  hath  been. 

Seems  as,  to  me,  of  all  bereft. 

Sole  friends  thy  woods  and  streams  are  left; 

And  thus  I  love  them  better  still, 

Even  in  extremity  of  ill. 

The  Lay  of  the  Last  Minstrel. 


N 


FlKST  LrPRESSIONS   OF  BaL5[0RAL. 


Balmoral,  Friday,  Septemher  8, 1848. 

We  arrived  at  Balmoral  at  a  quarter  to  three. 
It  is  a  pretty  little  castle  in  the  old  Scottish  style. 
There  is  a  picturesque  tower  and  garden  in  front, 
with  a  high  wooded  hill ;  at  the  back  there  is 
wood  down  to  the  Dee,  and  the  hills  rise  all 
around. 

There  is  a  nice  little  hall,  with  a  billiard -^oom ; 
next  to  it  is  the  dining-room.  Up  stairs  (ascend- 
ing by  a  good  broad  staircase),  immediately  to 
the  right,  and  above  the  dining-room,  is  our  sit- 
ting-room (formerly  the  dining-room),  a  fine  large 
room,  next  to  which  is  our  bedroom,  opening  into 
a  little  dressing-room,  which  is  Albert's.  Oppo- 
site, down  a  few  steps,  are  the  children's  and  Miss 
Hildyard's  three  rooms.  The  ladies  live  below, 
and  the  gentlemen  up  stairs. 

We  lunched  almost  immediately,  and  at  half 
past  four  we  walked  out,  and  went  up  to  the  top 
of  the  wooded  hill  opposite  our  windows,  where 

E2 


r 


;  i 


'11! 


iii 


•  t 


106 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


there  is  a  cairn,  and  up  wliicli  there  is  a  pretty- 
winding  path.  The  view  from  here,  looking  down 
upon  the  house,  is  charming.  To  the  left  you  look 
toward  the  beautiful  hills  surrounding  Locli-na- 
Gar^  and  to  the  right,  toward  Ballater,  to  the  glen 
(or  valley)  along  which  the  Dee  winds,  with  beau- 
tiful wooded  hills,  which  reminded  us  very  much 
of  the  Thilringerwald.  It  was  so  calm  and  so 
solitary,  it  did  one  good  as  one  gazed  around ;  and 
the  pure  mountain  air  was  most  refreshing.  All 
seemed  to  breathe  freedom  and  peace,  and  to  make 
one  forget  the  world  and  its  sad  turmoils. 

The  scenerj^  is  wild,  and  yet  not  desolate ;  and 
every  thing  looks  much  more  prosperous  and  cul- 
tivated than  at  Laggan.  Then  the  soil  is  delight- 
fully dry.  We  walked  ])eside  the  Dee,  a  beauti- 
ful, rapid  stream,  which  is  close  behind  the  house. 
The  view  of  the  hills  toward  Invercauld  is  exceed- 
ingly fine. 

When  I  came  in  at  half  past  ^^'x,  Albert  went 
out  to  try  his  luck  with  some  stags  which  lay 
quite  close  in  the  woods,  but  he  was  unsuccessful. 
They  come  down  of  an  evening  quite  near  to  the 
house. 


'MW 


Life  in  the  HigJdanda, 


107 


le 


First  Ascent  of  Loch-na-Gar. 

Saturday y  Septetiit^er  16, 1848. 
At  half  past  nine  o'clock  Albert  and  I  set  off 
in  a  post-chaise,  and  drove  to  the  bridge  in  the 
wood  oiBallocli  Bide^  about  five  miles  from  Bal- 
moral^ where  our  ponies  and  people  were.  Here 
we  mounted,  and  were  attended  by  a  keeper  of 
Mr.  Farquharson's  as  guide,  Macdonald*  —  who, 
with  his  shooting-jacket,  and  in  his  kilt,  looked  a 
picture — Grantf  on  a  pony,  v/ith  our  luncheon  in 

*  A  Jiiger  of  the  Prince's,  who  came  from  Fort  Augus- 
tus in  the  west :  he  was  remarkably  tall  and  handsome. 
The  poor  man  died  of  consumption  at  Windsor,  in  May, 
1860.  His  eldest  son  was  Attache  to  the  British  Legation 
in  Japan.  The  third  son,  Archie,  is  Jager  to  the  Prince  of 
Wales,  and  was  for  a  year  with  the  beloved  Prince. 

f  Head  keeper.  He  had  been  nearly  twenty  years  with 
Sir  Robert  Gordon,  nine  as  keeper ;  he  was  born  in  Brae- 
mar  in  the  year  1810.  He  is  an  excellent  man,  most  trust- 
Avorthy,  of  singular  shrewdness  and  discretion,  and  most 
devotedly  attached  to  the  Prince  and  myself.  He  has  a 
line  intelligent  countenance.  The  Prince  was  very  fond  of 
him.  He  has  six  sons — the  second,  Alick,  is  wardrobe-man 
to  our  son  Leopold :  all  are  good,  well-disposed  lads,  and 
getting  on  well  in  their  different  occui^ations.  His  moth- 
er, a  fine,  hale  old  woman  of  eighty  years,  "  stojifi"  in  a 
small  cottage  which  the  Prince  built  for  her  in  our  village. 


108 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


I 


v  f 


:  I  : 


two  baskets,  and  Batterbury*  on  another  pony. 
We  went  througli  that  beautiful  wood  for  about 
a  mile,  and  then  turned  and  began  to  ascend  grad- 
ually, the  view  getting  finer  and  finer ;  no  road, 
but  not  bad  ground — moss,  heather,  and  stones. 
Albert  saw  some  deer  when  we  had  been  out 
about  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  and  ran  off  to 
stalk  them,  while  I  rested ;  but  he  arrived  just  a 
minute  too  late.  He  waited  for  me  on  the  other 
side  of  a  stony  little  burn,  which  I  crossed  on  my 
pony,  after  our  faithful  Highlanders  had  moved 
some  stones  and  made  it  easier.  We  then  went 
on  a  little  way,  and  I  got  off  and  walked  a  bit, 
and  afterward  remounted,  Macdonald  leading  my 
pony.  The  view  oi  Ben-iia-Bliourd^  and  indeed 
of  all  around,  was  very  beautiful ;  but  as  we  rose 
higher  we  saw  mist  over  Locli-na-Gar.  Albert 
left  me  to  go  after  ptarmigan,  and  went  on  with 
Grant,  while  the  others  remained  with  me,  taking 
the  greatest  care  of  me.  Macdonald  is  a  good 
honest  man,  and  was  indefatigable,  and  poor  Bat- 
terbury  was  very  anxious  also. 

He  himself  lives  in  a  pretty  lodge  called  Croft,  a  mile  from 
Balmoral,  which  the  Prince  built  for  him. 

*  A  groom  (now  dead  some  years)  who  followed  me  in 
his  ordinary  dress,  with  thin  boots  and  gaiters,  and  seemed 
any  thing  but  happy.     He  was  replaced  by  a  gillie. 


Life  in  Vie  Highlands. 


101) 


I  saw  ptarmigan  get  up,  and  Albert  fire;  lie 
then  disappeared  from  my  sight,  and  I  rode  on. 
It  became  ccld  and  misty  when  we  were  on  Loch- 
iKV-Gar.  In  half  an  hour,  or  rather  less,  Albert 
rejoined  me  with  two  ptarmigan,  having  come  up 
by  a  shorter  way.  Here  it  was  quite  soft,  easy 
walking,  and  we  lo  ked  down  on  two  small  lochs 
called  Na  Nian^  which  were  very  striking,  being 
so  high  up  in  the  hills.  Albert  was  tired,  and 
remounted  his  pony ;  I  had  also  been  walking  a 
little  way.  The  ascent  commenced,  and  with  it  a 
very  thick  fog,  and  when  we  had  nearly  reached 
the  top  of  Locli-na-Gar  the  mist  drifted  in  thick 
clouds  so  as  to  hide  every  thing  not  within  one 
hundred  yards  of  us.  Near  the  peak  (the  fine 
point  of  the  mountain  which  is  seen  so  well  from 
above  Grant's  house)  we  got  off  and  walked,  and 
climbed  up  some  steep  stones  to  a  place  where 
we  found  a  seat  in  a  little  nook,  and  had  some 
luncheon.  It  was  just  two  o'clock,  so  we  had 
taken  four  hours  going  up. 

But,  alas !  nothing  whatever  to  be  seen ;  and  it 
was  cold,  and  wet,  and  cheerless.  At  about 
twenty  minutes  after  two  we  set  off  on  our  way 
downward,  the  wind  blowing  a  hurricane,  and  the 
mist  being  like  rain,  and  every  thing  quite  dark 
with  it.     Bowman  (Mr.  Farquharson's   keeper) 


m 


no 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


nil 


I 


'  ! 


I 


II; 


in! 


and  Macdonald,  who  preceded  us,  looked  like 
ghosts.  We  walked  some  way  till  I  was  quite 
breathless,  and  remounted  my  pony,  well  wrapped 
up  in  plaids;  and  we  came  down  by  the  same 
path  that  Albert  had  come  up,  which  is  shorter, 
but  steelier ;  the  pony  went  delightfully,  but  the 
mist  made  me  feel  cheerless. 

Albert  kept  ahead  a  little  while  for  ptarmigan, 
but  he  gave  it  up  again.  When  we  had  gone  on 
about  an  hour  and  a  quarter  or  an  hour  and  a 
half,  the  fog  disappeared  like  magic,  and  all  was 
sunshine  below,  about  one  thousand  feet  from  the 
top  I  should  say.  Most  provoking — and  yet  one 
felt  happy  to  see  sunshine  and  daylight  again. 

The  view,  as  one  descends,  overlooking  Inver- 
oaxild  and  the  wood  which  is  called  Balloch  13uie, 
is  most  lovely.  We  saw  some  deer  in  the  wood 
below.  We  rode  on  till  after  we  passed  the 
burn,  and  had  nearly  got  to  the  wood.  We  came 
another  way  down,  by  a  much  rougher  path ;  and 
then,  from  the  road  in  the  wood,  we  walked  up 
to  the  Falls  of  the  Garhlialt^  which  are  beautiful. 
The  rocks  are  very  grand,  and  the  view  from  the 
little  bridge,  and  also  from  a  seat  a  little  lower 
down,  is  extremely  pretty.  We  found  our  car- 
riages in  the  road,  and  drove  home  by  six  o'clock. 

We  met  Captain  Gordon,  and  then  Lord  John 


m 


Life  in  ike  Highlands. 


Ill 


Russell  and  Sir  James  Clark.  They  had  come  to 
look  after  us,  and  when  we  got  liome  we  found 
the  two  ladies  at  the  door  waiting  most  anxiously 
for  us. 


A  "Drive"  in  the  B.vllocii  Buie. 


September  18, 1848. 
At  a  quarter  past  ten  o'clock  we  set  off  in  a 
post-chaise  with  Bertie,  and  drove  beyond  the 
house  of  Mr.  Farquharson's  keeper  in  the  Ballooh 
Buie.  We  then  mounted  our  ponies,  Bertie  rid- 
ing Grant's  pony  on  the  deer-saddle,  and  beii.g 
led  by  a  gillie.  Grant  walking  by  his  side.  Mac- 
donald  and  several  gillies  were  with  us,  and  we 
were  preceded  by  Bowman  and  old  Arthur  Far- 
quharson,  a  dter-stalker  of  Invercauld's.  They 
took  us  up  a  beautiful  j^ath  winding  through  the 
trees  and  heather  in  the  Ballocli  Buie  /  but  when 
we  had  got  about  a  mile  or  more  they  discovered 
deer.  A  "  council  of  war"  was  held  in  a  whisper, 
and  we  turned  back  and  went  the  whole  way 
down  again,  and  rode  along  to  the  keeper's  lodge, 
where  we  turned  up  the  glen  immediately  below 
Qraifj  Daign^  through   a   beautiful  part   of  the 


112 


Life  in  the  Hi j^' lands. 


wood,  and  went  on  along  the  track  till  we  came 
to  the  foot  of  tlie  craig,  where  we  all  dismounted. 
We  scrambled  up  an  almost  perpendicular  place 
to  where  there  was  a  little  box,  made  of  hurdles, 
and  interwoven  with  branches  of  fir  and  heather, 
about  five  feet  m  height.  There  we  seated  our- 
selves with  Bertie,  Macdonald  lying  in  the  heather 
near  us,  watching  and  quite  concealed ;  some  had 
gone  round  to  beat,  and  others  again  were  at  a 
little  distance.  We  sat  quite  still,  and  sketched 
a  little;  I  doing  the  landscape  and  some  trees,  Al- 
bert drawing  Macdonald  as  he  lay  there.  This 
lasted  for  nearly  an  hour,  when  Albert  fancied  he 
heard  a  distant  sound,  and,  in  a  few  minutes,  Mac- 
donald whispered  that  he  saw  stags,  and  that  Al- 
bert should  wait  and  take  a  steady  aim.  We  then 
heard  them  coming  past.  Albert  did  not  look 
over  the  box,  but  through  it,  and  fired  through 
the  branches,  and  then  again  over  the  box.  The 
deer  retreated ;  but  Albert  felt  certain  he  had  hit 
a  stag.  He  ran  uj)  to  the  keepers,  and  at  that 
moment  .hey  called  from  below  that  they  "  had 
got  him,"  and  Albert  ran  on  to  see.  I  waited  for 
a  bit,  but  soon  scrambled  on  with  Bertie  and  Mac- 
donald's  help ;  and  Albert  joined  me  directly,  and 
we  all  went  down  and  saw  a  magnificent  stag, "  a 
royal,"  which  had  dropped,  soon  after  Albert  had 


Life  in  the  Ilifjhlamls. 


113 


hit  Lim,  at  one  of  the  men's  feet.  The  sport  was 
successful,  and  every  one  was  delighted,  Macdon- 
aid  and  the  keepers  in  particular ;  the  former  say- 
ing "  that  it  was  her  Majesty's  coming  out  that 
had  brought  the  good  luck."  I  was  supposed  to 
have  "  a  lucky  foot,"  of  which  the  Highlanders 
"  think  a  great  deal."  We  walked  down  to  the 
l)lace  we  last  came  up,  got  into  the  carriage,  and 
were  home  by  half  past  two  o'clock. 


The  First  Stay  at  Alt-na-Giutiiasach. 


August  80, 1849. 
After  writing  our  letters,  we  set  off  on  our  po- 
nies, with  Miss  Dawson,  Macdonald,  Grant,  Bat- 
terbury,  and  Hamis  Coutts ;  Hamis  is  Gaelic  for 
James,  and  is  pronounced  "  Hamish."  The  road 
has  been  improved  since  last  year,  and,  though  it 
is  still  very  rough,  there  are  no  fords  to  pass,  nor 
real  difficulties  any  longer.  We  rode  the  whole 
way,  and  Albert  only  walked  the  last  two  miles. 
He  took  a  Gaelic  lesson  during  our  ride,  asking 
Macdonald,  who  speaks  it  with  great  purity,  many 
words,  and  making  him  talk  to  Jemmie  Coutts. 


^vae 


!i 


114 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Albert  lias  already  picked  up  raauy  words ;  but 
it  is  a  very  difficult  language,  for  it  is  pronounced 
in  a  totally  different  way  from  that  in  wliicli  it  is 
written. 

We  arrived  at  our  little  "botbie"  at  two  o'clock, 
and  were  amazed  at  the  transformation.  There 
are  t^vo  huts,  and  to  the  one  in  which  we  live  a 
wooden  addition  has  been  made.  We  have  a 
charming  little  dining-room,  sitting-room,  bed- 
room, and  dressing-room,  all  en  suite ;  and  there 
is  a  little  room  where  Caroline  Dawson  (the  Maid 
of  Honor)  sleeps,  one  for  her  maid,  and  a  little 
pantry.  In  the  other  house,  which  is  only  a  few 
yards  distant,  is  the  kitchen,  where  the  people 
generally  sit,  a  small  room  where  the  se^wants 
dine,  and  another,  which  is  a  sort  of  store-room, 
and  a  loft  above  in  which  the  men  sleej^.  Marga- 
ret French  (my  maid),  Caroline's  maid,  Lohlein* 
(Albert's  valet),  a  cook,  Shacklef  (a  footman),  and 
Macdonald,  are  the  only  people  with  us  in  the 

*  This  faithful  and  trusty  valet  nursed  his  dear  master 
most  devotedly  through  his  sad  illness  in  December,  1861, 
and  is  now  always  with  me  as  my  personal  groom  of  the 
chambers  or  valet.  I  gave  him  a  house  near  Windsor 
Castle,  where  he  resides  when  the  Court  arc  there.  He  is 
a  native  of  Coburg.  His  father  has  been  for  fifty  years 
Furster  at  Fti^bach,  close  to  Coburg. 

f  Who  was  very  active  and  efficient.    He  is  now  a  Page. 


Lift  in  the  Highlands. 


115 


,* 


liouse,  old  John  Gordon  and  Lis  wife  excepted. 
Our  rooms  are  delightfully  papered,  the  ceilings 
as  well  as  wails,  and  veiy  nicely  furnished.  We 
lunched  as  soon  as  we  arrived,  and  at  three 
walked  down  (about  twenty  minutes'  walk)  to 
the  loch  called  "  Muich,"  which  some  say  means 
"  darkness"  or  "  sorrow."  Here  we  found  a  laro^e 
boat,  into  which  we  all  got,  and  Macdonald,  Dun- 
can, Grant,  and  Coutts  rowed ;  old  John  Gordon 
and  two  others  going  in  another  boat  with  the 
net.  They  rowed  up  to  the  head  of  the  loch,  to 
where  the  Maicli  runs  down  out  of  the  Dim  Loch, 
which  is  on  the  other  side. 

The  scenery  is  beautiful  here,  so  wild  and  grand 
— real  severe  Highland  scenery,  with  trees  in  the 
hollow.  We  had  various  scrambles  in  and  out 
of  the  boat  and  along  the  shore,  and  saw  three 
hawks,  and  caught  seventy  trout.  I  wish  an  art- 
ist could  have  been  there  to  sketch  the  scene ;  it 
was  so  picturesque — the  boat,  the  net,  and  the 
people  in  their  kilts  in  the  water  and  on  the 
shore.  In  going  back,  Albert  rowed  and  Mac- 
donald steered ;  and  the  lights  were  beautiful. 

We  came  home  at  a  quarter  past  seven.  At 
eight  we  dined,  Lohlein,  Macdonald,  and  Shackle 
waiting  on  us.  After  dinner  we  played  Avith 
Caroline  Dawson  at  Avhist  with  dummy,  and  aft- 


If. 


116 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


erward  walked  round  the  little  garden.  The  si- 
lence and  solitude,  only  interrupted  by  the  wav- 
ing of  the  fir-trees,  were  very  solemn  and  striking. 


iin 


l!  i 


A  Beat  ie  the  Abergeldie  Woods. 


Septemher  3, 1849. 

At  a  quarter  past  eleven  we  drove  (the  three 
gentlemen  going  in  another  carriage)  to  the  road 
along  which  we  went  with  Lord  Portman  the 
other  day,  and  up  to  a  small  path,  v/here  I 
mounted  my  pony,  Albert  and  the  others  walk- 
ing. We  came  to  Geannaclioil^  and  Albert  was 
much  pleased  with  the  splendid  view.  The  lights 
were  most  beautiful,  but  the  heat  was  overpower- 
ing, and  the  sun  burning. 

We  turned  to  the  right  when  out  on  the  moors, 
where  I  got  off  and  walked ;  and  we  seated  our- 
selves behind  a  large  stone,  no  one  but  Macdouald 
witn  us,  who  loaded  the  guns,  and  gave  notice 
w^en  any  thing  was  to  be  seen,  as  he  lay  upon 
the  ground.  The  gentlemen  were  below  in  the 
road ;  the  wood  was  beat,  but  nothing  came,  so 
we  walked  on,  and  came  down  a  beautiful  thick- 


'^^ 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


117 


was 


ly-wooded  glen ;  and  after  a  good  deal  of  scram- 
bling to  get  tliere,  and  to  get  up  one  side  of  the 
glen,  we  sat  down  again.  We  then  scrambled 
over  to  the  opposite  side,  where  we  again  con- 
cealed ourselves ;  in  this  beat  Albert  shot  a  roe, 
and  I  think  would  have  shot  more  had  they  not 
been  turned  back  by  the  sudden  appearance  of 
an  old  woman,  who,  looking  like  a  witch,  came 
along  through  the  wood  with  two  immense 
crutches,  and  disturbed  the  whole  thing.  Al- 
bert killed  the  roe  just  as  she  was  coming  along, 
and  the  shot  staiiled  her  very  much ;  she  was 
told  to  come  down,  whicli  she  did,  and  sat  be- 
low in  the  glen,  motionless,  having  covered  her 
head  with  her  handkerchief.  When  two  of  the 
beaters  came  down  and  were  told  to  take  up  the 
roe,  they  first  saw  the  old  woman,  and  started, 
and  stared  with  horror — which  was  very  amus- 
ing to  see.  I  rode  a  little  way  afterward,  and 
then  we  seated  ourselves  behind  a  bush,  in  the 
rear  of  the  wood,  close  to  the  distillery ;  but  this 
beat  brought  nothing.  Albert  killed  a  young 
black  cock  before  we  came  to  the  second  beat. 
We  were  home  at  a  quarter  past  three  o'clock. 


iljl 


.118 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


'•li 


! 


Visit  to  the  Diiu  Loch,  etc. 


Sejytemher  11, 1849. 


The  mornmg  was  very  fine.     I  heard  the  chil- 
some 


clren  repeat 


poetry  in  German,  and  then  at 


ten  o'clock  we  set  off  with  Lady  Douro  in  our 
carriage,  and  drove  on  beyond  Inch  Bohhard^ 
changing  horses  near  Birhhallj  and  stopping  for 
a  moment  at  the  Linn  of  Midcli  j  here  we  found 
the  ponies,  which  we  mounted,  forded  the  river, 
and  were  almost  immediately  at  the  hut.  We 
stopped  there  only  for  an  instant,  and  remounted 
our  ponies  directly ;  Grant,  Macdonald  (who  led 
my  pony  the  whole  time,  and  was  extremely  use- 
ful and  attentive),  Jemmie  Coutts  (leading  Lady 
Douro's  pony),  Charlie  Coutts,  and  John  Brown 
going  with  us,  old  John  Gordon  leading  the  way. 
It  was  half  past  twelve  when  we  began  ascend- 
ing the  hill  immediately  behind  the  house,  and 
proceeded  along  over  the  hills  to  a  great  height, 
whence  the  view  was  very  fine,  quite  overhang- 
ing the  loch,  and  commanding  an  extensive  view 
of  Glen  MuicJi  beyond  on  the  opposite  side.  The 
road  got  worse  and  worse.  It  was  particularly 
bad  when  we  had  to  pass  the  Burn  of  the  Glas- 
salt,  which  falls  into  the  loch,  and  was  very  full. 


•'■Jt 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


111). 


849. 
le  cliil- 
hen  at 
in  our 
Mard^ 
Ing  for 
found 
river, 
.     We 
)iinted 
ho  led 
y  use- 
Lady 
^rown 
5  way. 
3cend- 
,  and 
eight, 
liang- 
view 

The 
ilarly 
Crlm- 

full. 


There  had  been  so  much  rain  that  the  burns  and 
rivers  were  very  full,  and  the  ground  quite  soft. 
We  rode  over  the  Strone  Hill.,  the  wind  blowing 
dreadfully  hard  when  we  came  to  the  top.  Al- 
bert walked  almost  from  the  first,  and  shot  a  hare 
and  a  grouse ;  he  i)ut  up  a  good  many  of  them. 
We  walked  to  a  little  hollow  immediately  above 
the  Dim  Locli^  and  at  half  past  three  seated  our- 
selves there,  and  had  some  very  welcome  lunch- 
eon. The  loch  is  only  a  mile  in  length,  and  very 
wild ;  the  hills,  which  are  very  rocky  and  precip- 
itous, rising  perpendicularly  from  it. 

In  about  half  an  hour  we  began  our  journey 
homeward.  We  came  straight  down  beside  the 
Muich,  which  falls  in  the  most  beautiful  way  over 
the  rocks  and  stones  in  the  glen.  We  rode  do^vn, 
and  only  had  to  get  off  to  cross  the  Glassaltj 
wliich  was  an  awkward  ford  to  scramble  over. 
The  road  was  rough,  but  certainly  far  less  soft 
and  disagreeable  than  the  one  we  came  by.  I 
rode  "  Lochnagar"  at  first,  but  changed  him  for 
Colonel  Gordon's  pony,  as  I  thought  he  took  fright 
at  the  bogs;  but  Colonel  Gordon's  was  broken- 
winded,  and  struggled  very  much  in  the  soft 
ground,  which  was  very  disagreeable. 

We  were  only  an  hour  coming  down  to  the 
boat.     The   evening  was  very  fine,  but  it  blew 


I 


120 


Life,  in  the  Highlands. 


very  hard  on  the  lake,  and  the  men  could  not 
pull,  and  I  got  so  alarmed  that  I  begged  to  land, 
and  Lady  Douro  was  of  my  opinion  that  it  was 
much  better  to  get  out.  We  accordingly  landed, 
and  rode  home  along  a  sort  of  sheep-path  on  the 
side  of  the  lake,  which  took  us  three  quarters  of 
an  hour.  It  was  very  rough  and  very  narrow,  for 
the  hill  rises  abruptly  from  the  lake ;  we  had  sev- 
en hundred  feet  above  us,  and  I  suppose  one  hun- 
dred feet  below.  However,  we  arrived  at  the  hut 
quite  safely  at  twenty  minutes  to  seven,  thankful 
to  have  got  through  all  our  difficulties  and  ad- 
ventures, which  are  always  very  pleasant  to  look 
back  upon. 

We  dined  a  little  before  eight  with  Lady 
Douro,  and  played  two  rubbers  of  whist  w^ith  her. 

Old  John  Gordon  amused  Albert  by  saying,  in 
speaking  of  the  bad  road  we  had  gone, "  It's  some- 
thing steep  and  something  rough,"  and  "this  is 
the  only  best,"  meaning  that  it  was  very  bad, 
which  was  a  characteristic  reply. 


lid  not 
o  land, 
it  was 
Landed, 
on  the 
ters  of 
ow,  for 
ad  sev- 
le  liun- 
he  hut 
ankful 
rid  ad- 
o  look 

Lady 
:h  her. 
mg,  in 
some- 
;his  is 
bad, 


Life  in  the  Highlands.  121 


Ascent  of  Ben-na-Biiourd. 

Sefytemher  G,  1850. 
At  half  past  ten  o'clock  we  set  off  with  Lady 
Douro  and  Ernest  Leiningen,^'  and  drove  to  In- 
vercauld^  alDOut  three  quai*ters  of  a  mile  beyond 
the  house,  where  we  found  our  people  and  ponies, 
together  with  Arthur  Farquharson,  Sliewin,  and 
others.  We  then  walked  a  little  way,  after  which 
we  mounted  our  ponies  and  began  the  ascent  to- 
ward Ben-na- Bliourd ;  Macdonald  leading  my 
pony,  good  little  "  Lochnagar,"  and  James  Coutts 
Lady  Douro's.  There  is  an  excellent  path,  almost 
a  narrow  road,  made  up  to  within  the  last  two 
miles  and  a  half,  which  are  very  steep  and  rocky. 
The  scenery  is  beajLitiful.  We  first  rode  up  a 
glen  (where  a  stone  of  the  house  in  which  Finla, 
the  first  of  the  Farquharsons,  was  born,  is  still 
shown)  through  which  the  Glassalt  runs.  Far- 
ther on  comes  a  very  narrow,  rocky,  and  precipi- 
tous glen,  called  the  Sluggan,  said  to  mean  the 
"swallow,"  or  "swallowing."  Some  little  dis- 
tance after  this  the  country  opens  widely  before 
j'Ou,  with  Ben-na-Blioxivd  rising  toward  the  left ; 
and  then  you  enter  the  Forest  of  Mai\  which  the 

*  Our  nephew. 

F 


1  !. 


IIMI 


l! 


N 


122 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


m 


m 


fiij 


V.       ;    t 


Duke  of  Leeds  rents  from  Lord  Fife.  There  is  a 
very  pretty  little  shooting-box,  called  Sluggan 
Chttage,  which  is  half  way  from  Livercauld  to  the 
top  oi  Ben-nOrBliourd.  Below  this  is  the  Qiioicli, 
which  w^e  forded.  The  last  bit  of  the  real  road  is 
a  long  steep  ascent  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  the  name 
of  which  means  the  "  Tooth's  craig."  (Macdonald 
translated  all  the  names  for  us.)  The  ascent,  aft- 
er the  path  ceases,  is  very  stony ;  in  fact,  nothing 
but  bare  granite.  Albert  had  walked  a  great 
deal,  and  we  ladies  got  off  after  it  became  more 
uneven,  and  'when  we  were  no  longer  very  far 
from  the  top.  We  came  upon  a  number  of 
"  cairngorms,"  which  we  all  began  picking  up, 
and  found  some  very  j)retty  ones.  At  the  top, 
which  is  perfectly  flat,  the  ground  is  entirely  com- 
posed of  stones  or  wet  swampy  moss,  and  the 
granite  seems  to  have  stopped  just  a  few  feet  be- 
low. We  sat  down  at  a  cairn  and  had  our  lunch- 
eon. The  wind  was  extremely  cold,  but  when- 
ever we  got  out  of  it  the  air  was  very  hot.  The 
view  from  the  top  was  magnificent  and  most  ex- 
tensive: Ben-na-Bliourd  h  3940  feet  high.  We 
saw  Ben-y-Gklo  very  clearly.  Cairngorm  and  Ben 
Muich  Dliui  quite  close,  but  in  another  direction ; 
the  Moray  Firih^  and,  through  the  glass,  ships 
even  could  be  seen ;  and  on  the  other  side  rose 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


123 


jre  IS  a 
luggan 

to  the 
^uoicli, 
road  is 
s  name 
donald 
jnt,  aft- 
othing 

great 
i  more 
jry  far 
)er   of 

e  top, 
Y  com- 
d  the 
jet  be- 
lunch- 
when- 

The 
st  ex- 

We 
.  Ben 
tion; 
ships 

rose 


Locli-na-GaVy  still  the  jewel  of  all  the  mountains 
here. 

After  luncheon  we  began  our  downward  prog- 
ress, and  walked  the  whole  of  the  steep  part  till 
we  reached  the  path ;  we  came  down  very  quick- 
ly, my  pony  making  great  haste,  though  he  had 
half  a  mind  to  kick.  Albert  found  some  beauti- 
ful little  rock  crystals  in  the  Sliiggan^  and  walked 
the  remainder  of  the  way;  we  ladies  left  our 
horses  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  we  met 
the  carriage.  The  whole  distance  from  Inver- 
cauld  to  the  top  of  Ben-tia-Bhourd  is  nine  miles, 
so  we  must  have  been  at  least  18  miles  riding 
and  walking.  It  has  been  a  delightful  expe- 
dition. It  was  six  o'clock  when  we  reached  the 
carriage,  and  we  were  at  home  at  a  little  past 
seven. 


The  Gathering. 


Septemler  12,1850. 

We  lunched  early,  and  then  went  at  half  past 

two  o'clock,  with  the  children  and  all  our  party, 

except  Lady  Douro,  to  the  Gathering  at  the  Castle 

of  Brae7)iar,  as  we  did  last  year.    The  Duffs,  Far- 


\\\ 


m    I 


124 


Life  in  the  Highland^'. 


quLarsons,  the  Leeds's,  and  those  staying  with 
them,  and  Captain  Forbes*  and  forty  of  his  men 
who  had  come  over  from  Strath  Don^  were  there.f 
Some  of  our  people  were  there  also.  There  were 
the  usual  games  of  "  putting  the  stone,"  "  throwing 
the  hammer"  and  "  caber,"  and  racing  up  the  hill 
of  Craig  Cheimnichy  which  was  accomplished  in 
less  than  six  minutes  and  a  half;  and  we  were  all 
much  pleased  to  see  our  gillie  Duncan, J  who  is 
an  active,  good-looking  young  man,  win.  He  was 
far  before  the  others  tho  wliole  way.  It  is  a  fear- 
ful exertion.  Mr.  Farquharson  brought  him  up 
to  me  afterward.  Eighteen  or  nineteen  started, 
and  it  looked  very  j)retty  to  see  them  run  off  in 
their  different  colored  kilts,  with  their  white  shirts 

*  Now  Sir  Charles  Forbes,  of  Castle  Newe. 

f  A  work  recently  published,  entitled  Highlanders  of 
Scotland^  by  Kenneth  Macleay,  Esq.,  R.S.A.,  contains  ex- 
cellent portraits  of  some  of  the  men  of  these  and  other  of 
the  principal  Highland  clans,  as  well  as  of  the  Retainers 
of  the  Royal  Household. 

\  One  of  our  keepers  since  1851 :  an  excellent,  intelligent 
man,  much  liked  by  the  Prince.  He,  like  many  others,  spit 
blood  after  running  the  race  up  that  steep  hill  in  this  short 
space  of  time,  and  he  has  never  been  so  strong  since.  The 
running  up  hill  has  in  consequence  been  discontinued.  He 
lives  in  a  cottage  at  the  back  of  Craig  Gowan  (command- 
ing a  beautiful  view)  called  Robrech,  which  the  Prince 
built  for  him. 


iMi 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


125 


g  with 
lis  men 
there.f 
'e  were 
rowing 
he  hill 
hed  in 
ere  all 
vho  is 
fe  was 
a  fear- 
im  up 
;arted, 
off  in 
shirts 

rs  of 
ns  ex- 
ler  of 
ainers 

igent 
?,  spit 
sliort 

The 

He 
land- 
rince 


(the  jackets  or  doublets  they  take  off  for  all  the 
games),  and  scramble  up  through  the  wood,  emerg- 
ing gradually  at  the  edge  of  it,  and  climbing  the 
hill. 

After  this  we  went  into  the  castle  and  saw 
some  dancing ;  the  prettiest  was  a  reel  by  Mr. 
Farquharson's  children  and  some  other  children, 
and  the  "  Ghillie  Galium"  beautifully  danced  by 
John  Athole  Farquharson,  the  fourth  son.  The 
twelve  children  were  all  there,  including  the  baby, 
who  is  two  years  old. 

Mamma,  Charles,  and  Ernest  joined  us  at  jBrcie- 
mai\  Mamma  enjoys  it  all  very  much ;  it  is  her 
first  visit  to  Scotland.    We  left  after  the  dancing. 


Salmon  Leistering. 


September  13, 1850. 
We  walked  with  Charles,  the  boys,  and  Vicky 
to  the  river  side  above  the  bridge,  where  all  our 
tenants  were  assembled  with  pjles  and  spears,  or 
rather  "  leisters,"  for  catching  salmon.  They  all 
went  into  the  river,  walking  up  it,  and  then  back 
again,  poking  about  under  all  the  stones  to  bring 
fish  up  to  where  the  men  stood  with  the  net.     It 


ill 


11 


126 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


had  a  very  pretty  effect ;  about  one  Luntlred  men 
wadiug  through  the  river,  some  in  kilts  with  poles 
and  spears,  all  very  much  excited.  Not  succeed- 
ing the  first  time,  we  wxnt  higher  up,  and  moved 
to  three  or  four  different  places,  but  did  not  get 
any  salmon,  one  or  two  escaping.  Albert  stood 
on  a  stone,  and  Colonel  Gordon  and  Lord  James 
Murray  waded  about  the  whole  time.  Duncan, 
in  spite  of  all  his  exertions  yesterday,  and  having 
besides  walked  to  and  from  the  Gathering,  was 
the  whole  time  in  the  w^ater.  Not  fiir  from  the 
laundry  there  was  another  trial,  and  here  we  had 
a  great  fright.  In  one  place  there  was  a  very 
deep  pool,  into  which  two  men  very  foolishly 
went,  and  one  could  not  swim ;  we  suddenly  saw 
them  sink,  and  in  one  moment  they  seemed  drown- 
ing, though  surrounded  by  people.  There  was  a 
cry  for  help,  and  a  general  rush,  including  Albeii;, 
toward  the  spot,  which  frightened  me  so  much, 
that  I  grasped  Lord  Carlisle's  arm  in  great  agony. 
However,  Dr.  Kobertson*  swam  in  and  pulled  the 
man  out,  and  all  '^as  safely  over;  but  it  was  a 
horrid  moment. 

*  The  gentleman  who  has  had  from  the  beginning  the 
entire  management  of  our  property  at  Balmoral,  etc.  He 
is  highly  esteemed,  and  is  a  most  amiable  man,  who  has 
carried  out  all  the  Prince's  and  my  wishes  admirably. 


i 


'# 


■an 


Life  in  the  IIir\lands. 


127 


the 
He 

has 


A  salmon  was  speared  here  by  one  of  the  men, 
after  A\liicli  we  walked  to  the  fo^'d,  or  quarry, 
where  we  were  very  successful,  seven  salmon  be- 
ing caught,  some  in  the  net,  and  some  speared. 
Though  Albert  stood  in  the  water  some  time,  he 
caught  nothing;  but  the  scene  at  this  beautiful 
spot  was  exciting  and  picturesque  in  the  extreme. 
I  wished  for  Land  seer's  pencil.  The  sun  was  in- 
tensely hot.  We  did  not  get  back  till  after  three 
o'clock,  and  then  took  luncheon.  The  Duchess 
of  Gordon  came  to  see  us  afterward ;  and  while 
she  was  still  with  us,  Captain  Forbes  (who  had 
asked  permission  to  do  so)  marched  through  the 
grounds  with  his  men,  the  pipers  going  in  front. 
They  stopped,  and  cheered  three  -  times  -  three, 
throwing  up  their  bonnets.  They  then  marched 
off,  and  we  listened  with  pleasure  to  the  distant 
shouts  and  the  sound  of  the  pibroch. 

We  heard  afterward  that  our  men  had  carried 
all  Captain  Forbes's  men  on  their  backs  through 
the  river.  They  saw  the  fishing  going  on,  and 
came  to  the  water's  edge  on  the  opposite  side; 
and  on  being  greeted  by  our  people,  said  they 
w^ould  come  over,  on  w^hich  ours  wxnt  across  in 
one  moment  and  carried  them  over — Macdonald 
at  their  head  carrying  Captain  Forbes  on  his  back. 
This  was  very  couiteous,  and  worthy  of  chivalrous 
times. 


''! 


'"I 
I 


I 


i 


i 


128  Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Locii  Muicn. 

Septemher  16, 1850. 

We  reached  the  hut  at  three  o'clock.     At  half 

past  four  we  walked  down  to  the  loch,  and  got 

into  the  boat  with  our  people ;  Duncan,  Brown,* 

*  The  same  who,  in  1858,  became  my  regular  attendant 
out  of  doors  every  where  in  the  Highlands;  who  com- 
menced as  gillie  in  1849,  and  was  selected  by  Albert  and 
me  to  go  with  my  carriage.  In  1851  he  entered  our  service 
permanently,  and  began  in  that  year  leading  my  pony^  and 
advanced  step  by  step  by  his  good  conduct  and  intelligence. 
His  attention,  care,  and  faithfulness  can  not  be  exceeded ; 
and  the  state  of  my  health,  which  of  late  years  has  been 
sorely  tried  and  weakened,  renders  such  qualifications  most 
valuable,  and,  indeed,  most  needful  in  a  constant  attendant 
upon  all  occasions.  He  has  since,  most  deservedly,  been 
promoted  to  be  an  uppei'  servant,  and  my  permanent  per- 
sonal attendant.  (December,  1805.)  He  has  all  the  inde- 
pendence and  elevated  feelings  peculiar  to  the  Highland 
race,  and  is  singularly  straightforward,  simple-minded,  kind- 
hearted,  and  disinterested ;  always  ready  to  oblige ;  and  of 
a  discretion  rarely  to  be  met  with.  He  is  now  in  Ills  forti- 
eth year.  His  father  was  a  small  farmer,  who  lived  at  the 
Bush  on  the  opposite  side  to  Balmoral.  He  is  the  second 
of  nine  brothers,  three  of  whom  lia v e  died,  two  are  in  Aus- 
tralia and  New  Zealand,  two  are  living  in  the  neighborliood 
of  Balmoral,  and  the  youngest,  Archie  (Archi^bald),is  valet 
to  our  son  Leopold,  and  is  an  excellent,  trustworthy  young 
man. 


^ 


^: 


L^fc  in  the  Highlands. 


129 


P.  Cotes  *  and  Leys  rowing.  They  rowed  mostly 
toward  the  opposite  side,  wliicli  is  very  fine  in- 
deed, and  deeply  furrowed  by  the  torrents,  which 
form  giens  and  corries  vrhere  birch  and  alder  trees 
grow  close  to  the  water's  edge.  We  landed  on  a 
sandy  spot  below  a  fine  glen,  through  whicli  flows 
the  Black  Burn.  It  was  very  dry  here,  but  still 
very  picturesque,  Avith  alder-trees  and  mountain 
ash  in  full  fruit  overhancjiufy  it.  We  afterward 
landed  at  our  usual  place  at  the  head  of  the  loch, 
which  is  magnificent,  and  rode  back.  A  new  road 
has  been  made,  and  an  excellent  one  it  is,  winding 
alonsj  above  the  lake. 

The  moon  rose,  and  was  beautifully  reflected 
on  the  lake,  which,  witli  its  steep  green  hills, 
looked  bvely.  To  add  to  the  beauty,  poetry, 
and  wildness  of  the  scene.  Cotes  played  in  the 
boat ;  the  men,  who  row  very  quickly  and  well 
now,  giving  an  occasional  shout  when  he  played 
a  reel.  It  reminded  me  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's 
lines  in  The  Lady  of  the  Lahe : 

"  Ever,  as  on  they  bore,  more  loud 
And  louder  rung  the  pibroch  proud. 
At  first  tlie  sound,  by  distance  tame, 
Mellow'd  along  tho  waters  came, 

*  Now,  since  some  years,  piper  to  Farquharson  of  Invcr- 
cauld. 

F2 


i^il 


130  Life  in  the  Higlilands. 

And,  lingering  long  by  cape  and  bay, 
Wail'd  every  harsher  note  away." 

We  were  home  at  a  little  past  seven;  and  it  was 
so  still  and  pretty  as  we  entered  the  wood,  and 
saw  the  light  flickering  from  our  humble  little 
abode. 


it 


Torch -LIGHT  Ball  at  Cokriemulzie. 

Se]ptem'her  10,  loo^. 

We  dined  at  a  quarter  past  six  o'clock  in 
morning  gowns  (not  ordinary  ones,  but  such  as 
are  worn  at  a  "  breakfast"),  and  at  seven  started 
for  Corriemulzie  for  a  torch-light  hall  in  the  open 
air.  I  wore  a  white  bonnet,  a  gray  watered  silk, 
and  (according  to  Highland  fashion)  my  plaid 
scarf  over  my  shoulder,  and  Albert  his  Highland 
dress,  w^hich  he  wears  every  evening.  We  drove 
in  the  post-chaise,  the  two  ladies.  Lord  Derby, 
and  Colonel  Gordon  following  in  the  other  car- 
riage. 

It  was  a  mild  though  threatening  evening,  but 
fortunately  it  kept  fine.  We  arrived  there  at  half 
past  eight,  by  which  time,  of  course,  it  was  quite 
dark.     Mr.  and  Lady  Agnes  Duff  received  us  at 


•msmtsmaammmmim 


1 


Life  ill  tiie  lligldauds. 


131 


the  door,  and  then  took  us  at  once  through  the 
house  to  the  open  space  where  the  ball  was, 
which  was  hid  from  our  view  till  the  curtains 
were  drawn  asunder.  It  was  really  a  beautiful 
and  most  unusual  sight.  All  the  company  were 
assembled  there.  A  space  about  one  hundred 
feet  in  length  and  sixty  feet  in  width  was  board- 
ed, and  entirely  surrounded  by  Highlanders  bear- 
ing torches,  which  were  placed  in  sockets,  and 
constantly  replenished.  There  were  seven  pipers 
playing  together,  Mackay'"'  leading,  and  they  re- 
ceived us  with  the  usual  salute  and  three  cheers, 
and  "  Nis  !  nis  !  nis  ! "  (  pronounced  "  Neesh  ! 
neesh !  neesh !"  the  Highland  "  Hip !  hip !  hip !") 
and  again  cheers;  after  which  came  a  most  ani- 
mated reel.  There  were  above  sixty  people,  ex- 
clueive  of  the  Highlanders,  of  whom  there  were 
also  sixty ;  all  the  Highland  gentlemen,  and  any 
who  were  at  all  Scotch,  were  in  kilts,  the  ladies 
in  evening  dresses.  The  company  and  the  High- 
landers danced  pretty  nearly  alternately.  There 
were  two  or  three  sword  dances.    We  were  upon 

*  My  Piper  from  the  year  1843,  considered  almost  the 
first  in  Scotland,  who  was  recommended  by  the  Murquis 
of  Breadalbanc ;  he  mifortunately  went  out  of  his  mind  in 
the  year  1854,  and  died  in  1855.  A  brother  of  his  was 
Piper  to  the  Duke  of  Sussex. 


132 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


a  hautpaSj  over  wliicli  there  was  a  canopy.  Tlie 
whole  thing  was  admirably  done,  and  very  well 
worth  seeing.  Albert  was  delighted  with  it.  I 
must  not  omit  to  mention  a  reel  danced  by  eight 
Highlanders  holding  torches  in  their  hands. 

We  left  at  half  past  nine  o'clock,  and  were  home 
by  a  little  past  eleven.  A  long  way  certainly 
(14  miles,  I  believe). 


Account  of  the  News  of  tiie  Duke  of 
Wellington's  Death. 


Alt-na-GkUliasacli^  ] 

Thursday^  Septemher  16, 1852.  j 

We  were  startled  this  morning  at  seven  o'clock 
by  a  letter  from  Colonel  Phipps,  inclosing  a  tele- 
graphic dispatch  with  the  report,  from  the  sixth 
edition  of  the  Bun^  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington's 
death  the  day  before  yesterday,  which  report,  how- 
ever, we  did  not  at  all  believe.  Would  to  God 
that  we  had  been  right,  and  that  this  day  had  not 
been  cruelly  saddened  in  the  afternoon. 

We  breakfasted  with  Miss  Seymour ;  and  after 
writing  and  reading,  we  started  at  a  quarter  to 


H. 

>;i1 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


133 


eleven  with  her  and  our  Highland  party.  The 
day  was  not  cold,  and  would,  in  fact,  have  been 
veiy  fine  if  it  had  not  been  for  a  constant  suc- 
cession of  very  slight  showers,  or  clouds  coming 
down.  We  walked  along  the  loch,  the  road  up 
to  which  is  excellent.  It  has  been  widened,  and 
would  admit  of  a  carriage.  We  arrived  at  the 
Alt-7ia-Dearg,  a  small  burn  and  fall,  which  is  very 
fine  and  rapid.  Up  this  a  winding  path  has  been 
made,  upon  which  we  rode,  though  some  parts  are 
rather  steep  for  riding.  The  burn  falls  over  red 
granite ;  aad  in  the  ravine  grow  birch,  mountain 
ash,  and  alder.  We  got  ofi^,  and  walked  a  good 
long  way  on  the  top  of  the  very  steep  hills  over- 
hanging the  loch,  to  the  Stron,  and  the  Moss  of 
Mon  Elpie^  whence  you  overlook  all  the  coun- 
try belonging  to  Lord  Panmure,  Mount  Keen,  the 
Ogilvie  Hills,  etc.  We  stopped  to  rest  a  little 
while — though  the  walking  is  excellent,  so  hard 
and  dry — on  a  point  overlooking  the  Sliiel  of  the 
Glassalt  and  the  head  of  the  loch.  Here  I  sud- 
denly missed  my  watch,  which  the  dear  old  Duke 
had  given  me ;  and,  not  being  certain  whether  I 
had  put  it  on  or  not,  I  asked  Mackenzie*  to  go 
back  and  inquire.  We  walked  on  until  we  reached 

*  One  of  our  keepers,  and  a  very  ^ood  man;  he  lives  at 
Alt-na-Giuthasach. 


134 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


;i 


p 


tlie  higlier  part  of  the  Glassalt^  which  we  stepped 
across.  We  had  passed  over  the  tops  of  these 
hills  on  that  expedition  to  the  Dhu  Loch  three 
years  ago,  when  the  ground  was  so  soft  that  po- 
nies could  scarcely  get  along,  the  roads  were  so 
very  bad. 

Then  we  began  the  descent  of  the  Glassaltj 
along  which  another  path  has  been  admirably 
made.  From  here  it  is  quite  beautiful,  so  wild 
and  grand.  The  falls  are  equal  to  those  of  the 
Bruar  at  Blair ^  and  are  150  feet  in  height,  the 
whole  height  to  the  fovot  of  the  loch  being  500 
feet.  It  looked  very  picturesque  to  see  the  ponies 
p.nd  Highlanders  winding  along.  We  came  down 
to  the  Sliiel  of  the  Glassalt,  lately  built,  where 
there  is  a  charming  room  for  us,  commanding  a 
most  lovely  view.  Here  we  took  the  cold  lunch- 
eon which  we  had  bi'ought  with  us,  and  after  that 
we  mounted  our  ponies,  and  rode  to  the  Dhu 
Loc\  along  a  beautiful  path  which  keeps  well 
above  the  burn,  that  rushes  along  over  flat  great 
slabs  of  stone.  The  scenery  is  exquisite.  We 
passed  a  small  fall  called  the  Burn  of  the  Spullan 
("  spout").  In  half  or  three  quarters  of  an  hour 
we  were  at  the  wild  and  picturesque  Dhu  Loch. 

We  got  off  our  ponies,  and  I  had  just  sat  down 
to  sketch,  when  Mackenzie  returned,  saying  my 


m 


Life  in  the  Higalands, 


135 


so 


■» 


I 

1 


watch  was  safe  at  home,  and  bringing  letters ; 
among  them  there  was  one  from  Lord  Derby, 
which  I  tore  opei>,  and,  alas !  it  contained  the  con- 
firmation of  the  fatal  news  :  that  England'' s,  or 
rather  BritcMs  pride,  her  glory,  her  hero,  the 
greatest  man  she  ever  had  produced,  was  no 
more !  Sad  day !  Great  and  irreparable  nation- 
al loss ! 

Lord  Derby  inclosed  a  few  lines  from  Lord 
Charles  Wellesley,  saying  that  his  dear  great  fa- 
ther had  died  on  Tuesday  at  three  o'clock,  after  a 
few  hours'  illness  and  no  suffering.  God's  will  be 
done !  The  day  must  have  come :  the  Duke  was 
eighty-three.  It  is  well  for  him  that  he  has  been 
taken  when  still  in  the  possession  of  his  great 
mind,  and  without  a  long  illness — out  what  a 
loss  !  One  can  not  think  of  this  country  without 
"  the  Duke" — our  immortal  hero  ! 

In  him  centred  almost  every  earthly  honor  a 
subject  could  j)ossess.  His  position  was  the  high- 
est a  subject  ever  had — above  party — looked  up  to 
by  all — revei^^.d  by  the  whole  nation — the  friend 
of  the  Sovereign ;  and  lioio  simply  he  carried  these 
honors !  With  what  singleness  of  purpose,  what 
straightforwardness,  what  courage,  were  all  the 
motives  of  his  actions  guided.  The  Crown  never 
possessed — and  I  fear  never  loill — so  devoted^  loy- 


136 


Life  in  the  Highlands, 


al,  and  faithful  a  subject,  so  standi  a  supporter ! 
To  us  (who,  alas  !  have  lost,  now,  so  many  of  our 
valued  and  experienced  friends)  his  los3  is  irrep- 
arable^ for  his  readiness  to  aid  and  advise,  if  it 
could  be  of  use  to  us,  and  to  overcome  any  and 
every  difficulty,  was  unequaled.  To  Albert  he 
showed  the  greatest  kindness  and  the  utmost  con- 
fidence. His  experience  and  his  knowledge  of 
the  past  were  so  great  too ;  he  was  a  link  which 
connected  us  with  by-gone  times,  with  the  last 
century.  Not  an  eye  will  be  dry  in  the  whole 
country. 

We  hastened  down  on  foot  to  the  hi  ad  of  Loch 
Muich,  and  then  rode  home,  in  a  heavy  shower, 
to  Alt-na-Giutliasach.  Our  whole  enjoyment  was 
spoiled ;  a  gloom  overhung  all  of  us. 

We  wrote  to  Lord -Derby  and  Lord  Charles 
Wellesley. 


Building  the  Caien  on  Ceaig  Gowan,  etc. 


Monday,  Ocloher  11, 185S>. 
This  day  has  been  a  very  happy,  lucky,  and 
memorable  one — our  last !     A  fine  morning. 


■I 


Life  in  the  Ilijldands. 


137 


Albert  had  to  see  Mr.Walpole,  and  therefore  it 
was  nearly  eleven  o'clock  before  we  could  go  up 
to  the  top  of  Craig  Gowan^  to  see  the  cairn  built, 
w^hich  was  to  commemorate  our  taking  possession 
of  this  dear  place,  the  old  cairn  having  been  pulled 
down.  W  eset  off  with  all  the  children,  ladies, 
gentlemen,  and  a  few  of  the  servants,  including 
Macdonald  and  Grant,  who  had  not  already  gone 
up ;  and  at  the  Moss  Ilouse^  which  is  half  way, 
Mackay  met  us,  and  preceded  us,  playing,  Duncan 
and  Donald  Stewart*  going  before  him,  to  the 
highest  point  of  Cndg  Gowan^  where  were  assem- 
bled all  the  servants  and  tenants,  with  their  wives, 
and  children,  and  old  relations.  All  our  little 
friends  were  there  —  Mary  Symons  and  Lizzie 
Stewart,  the  four  Grants,  and  several  others. 

I  then  placed  the  first  stone,  after  which  Albert 
laid  one,  then  the  children,  according  to  their  ages. 
All  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  placed  one;  and 
then  every  one  came  forward  at  once,  each  person 
carrying  a  stone  and  placing  it  on  the  cairn.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Anderson  were  there ;  Mackay  played ; 


*  One  of  the  keepers,  whom  we  found  here  in  1848.  He 
is  an  excellent  man,  and  was  much  liked  by  the  Prince ;  he 
always  led  the  dogs  when  the  Prince  went  out  stalking. 
He  lives  in  the  Western  Lodge,  close  to  Grant's  house, 
which  was  built  for  him  by  the  Prince. 


138 


Lift  in  the  Highlands. 


ill  i 


ill 

Iff 


and  whisky  was  given  to  all.  It  took,  I  am  sure, 
an  liour  building;  and  while  it  was  going  on,  some 
merry  reels  were  danced  on  a  stone  opposite.  All 
the  old  people  (even  the  gardener's  wife  from 
Coi'Me  Hall,  near  Ahei^geldie)  danced;  and  many 
of  the  children,  Mary  Symons  and  Lizzie  Stewart 
especially,  danced  so  nicely,  the  latter  with  her 
hair  all  hanging  down.  Poor  dear  old  "  Monk," 
Sir  Robert  Gordon's  faithful  old  dog,  was  sitting 
there  among  ue  all.  At  last,  when  the  cairn, 
w^hich  is,  I  think,  seven  or  eight  feet  high,  was 
nearly  completed,  Albert  climbed  up  to  the  top 
of  it,  and  placed  the  last  stone,  after  which  three 
cheers  were  given.  It  was  a  gay,  pretty,  and 
touching  sight,  and  I  felt  almost  inclined  to  cry. 
The  view  was  so  beautiful  over  the  dear  hills ;  the 
day  so  fine ;  the  whole  -so  ge7nuthlicli.  Meiy  God 
bless  this  place,  and  allow  us  yet  to  see  it  and  en- 
joy it  many  a  long  year ! 

After  luncheon,  Albert  decided  to  walk  through 
the  wood  for  the  last  time,  to  have  a  last  chance, 
and  allowed  Vicky  and  me  to  go  with  him.  At 
half  pttSt  three  o'clock  we  started,  got  out  at 
Grant's,  and  walked  up  part  of  Carrop,  intending 
to  go  along  the  upper  path,  when  a  stag  was 
heard  to  roar,  and  we  all  turned  into  the  wood. 
We  crept  along,  and  got  into  the  middle  path. 


in 


■TiTmiwiifn 


^ 


LiJq  in  the  Ilujhlands. 


139 


It 
g 


■4* 


Albert  soon  left  us  to  go  lower,  and  we  sat  down 
to  wait  for  him ;  presently  we  heard  a  shot — then 
complete  silence — and,  after  another  pause  of 
some  little  time,  three  more  shots.  This  was 
again  succeeded  by  complete  silence.  We  sent 
some  one  to  look,  who  shortly  after  returned,  say- 
ing the  stag  had  been  twice  hit,  and  they  were 
after  him.  Macdonald  next  went,  and  in  about 
five  minutes  we  heard  "Solomon"  give  tongue, 
and  knew  he  had  the  stag  at  bay.  We  listened 
a  little  while,  and  then  began  moving  down,  hop- 
ing to  arrive  in  time ;  but  the  barking  had  ceased, 
and  Albert  had  already  killed  the  stag ;  anu  on 
the  road  he  lay,  a  little  way  beyond  Invergelder — 
the  beauty  that  we  had  admired  yesterday  even- 
ing. He  was  a  magnificent  animal,  and  I  sat  down 
and  scratched  a  little  sketch  of  him  on  a  bit  of 


140 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


paper  that  Macdonald  had  iu  his  pocket,  which  I 
put  on  a  stone,  while  Albert  and  Vicky,  with  the 
others,  built  a  little  cairn  to  mark  the  spot.  We 
heard,  after  I  had  finished  ray  scrawl,  and  the  car- 
riage had  joined  us,  that  another  stag  had  been 
seen  near  the  road ;  and  we  had  not  gone  as  far 
as  the  "Irons"*  before  we  saw  one  below  the 
road,  looking  so  handsome.  Albert  jumped  out 
and  fired — the  animal  fell,  but  rose  again,  and 
went  on  a  little  way,  and  Albert  followed.  Very 
shortly  after,  however,  we  heard  a  cry,  and  ran 
down  and  found  Grant  and  Donald  Stewart  pull- 
ing up  a  stag  with  a  very  pretty  head.  Albert 
had  gone  on.  Grant  went  after  him,  anc^  and 
Vicky  remained  with  Donald  Stewart,  the  stag, 
and  the  dogs.  I  sat  down  to  sketch,  and  poor 
Vicky  unfortunately  seated  herself  on  a  wasp's 
nest,  and  was  much  stung.  Donald  Stewart  res- 
cued her,  for  I  could  not,  being  myself  too  much 
alarmed.  Albert  joined  us  in  twenty  minutes,  un- 
aware of  having  killed  the  stag.  What  a  delight- 
ful day !  but  sad  that  it  should  be  the  last  day ! 


*  These  "Irons"  .are  the  levers  of  an  old  saw-mili  which 
was  pulled  down,  and  they  were  left  there  to  be  sold — ^be- 
tween thirty  and  forty  years  ago  —  and  have  n'imained 
there  ever  since,  not  being  considere^l  worth  selling,  on  ac- 
count of  the  immense  trouble  of  transporting  them. 


Life  ill  Uic  IlifjIdamU, 


141 


Home  by  half  past  six.     We  found  our  beautiful 
stag  Lad  arrived,  and  admired  liini  much. 


Laying  the  Foundation-stone  of  our 
New  House. 


Septemher  28, 1853. 
A  fine  morning  early,  but  when  we  walked  out 
at  half  past  ten  o'clock  it  began  raining,  and  soon 
poured  down  wit'.jut  ceasing.  Most  fortunately 
it  cleared  up  before  tw^o,  and  the  sun  shone  bright- 
ly for  the  ceremony  of  laying  the  foundation-stone 
of  the  new  house.  Mamma  and  all  her  party  ar- 
rived from  Abergeldie  a  little  before  three.  I  an- 
nex the  Programme  of  the  Ceremony,  which  was 
strictly  adhered  to,  and  was  really  very  interest- 
ing: 

PROGE^VMatE. 

The  stone  being  prepared  anil  cuspended  over  that  upon 
which  it  is  to  rest  (in  which  will  be  a  cavity  for  the  bottle 
containing  the  parchment  and  the  coins), 

The  workmen  will  be  placed  in  a  semicircle  at  a  little 
distance  from  the  stone,  and  the  women  and  home  servants 
in  an  inner  semicircle. 

Her  Majesty  the  Queen,  and  His  Royal  Highness  the 


n 


n 


|i) 


142 


//{/e  in  the  Highlands. 


Prince,  accomi^anicd  by  the  Royal  Children,  Her  Royal 
Highness  the  Duchess  of  Kent,  and  attended  by  Her  Maj- 
esty's guests  and  suite,  will  proceed  from  the  house.  ' 

Her  Majesty,  the  Prince,  and  the  Royal  Family  will 
stand  oil  the  south  side  of  the  stone,  the  suite  being  behind 
and  on  each  side  of  the  Royal  party. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Anderson  will  then  pray  for  a  blessing  on 
the  work.  Her  Majesty  will  affix  her  signature  to  the 
parchment,  recording  the  day  upon  which  the  foundation- 
stone  was  laid.  Her  Majesty's  signature  will  be  followed 
by  that  of  the  Prmcc  and  the  Royal  Children,  the  Duchess 
of  Kent,  and  any  others  that  Her  Majesty  may  command, 
and  the  parchment  will  be  placed  in  the  bottle. 

One  of  each  of  the  current  coins  of  the  present  leign 
will  also  be  placed  in  the  bottle,  and  the  bottle,  having 
been  sealed  up,  will  be  placed  in  the  cavity.  The  trowel 
will  then  be  delivered  to  Her  Majesty  by  Mr.  Smith  of 
Aberdeen,  the  architect,  and  the  mortar  having  been 
Bjiread,  the  stone  will  be  lowered. 

The  level  and  square  will  then  be  applied,  and  their  cor- 
rectness ha\  ing  been  ascertained,  the  mallet  will  be  deliv- 
ered to  Her  Majesty  by  Mr.  Stuart  (the  clerk  of  the  works), 
when  Her  Majesty  will  strike  the  stone  and  declare  it  to  be 
laid.  The  cornucopia  will  be  placed  upon  the  stone,  and 
the  oil  and  wine  poured  out  by  Her  Majesty. 

The  pipes  will  play,  and  Her  Majesty,  tvith  the  Royal 
Family,  will  retire. 

As  soon  after  as  it  can  be  got  ready,  the  workmen  will 
proceed  to  their  dinner.  After  dinner,  the  following  toasts 
will  be  given  by  Mr.  Smith : 

"The  Queen." 

"  The  Prince  and  the  Royal  Family." 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


143 


"Prosperity  to  the  house,  and  happiness  to  the  inmates 
of  Balmoral." 

The  workmen  will  then  leave  the  dinner-room,  and 
amuse  themselves  upon  the  green  with  Highland  games 
till  seven  o'clock,  when  a  dance  will  take  place  in  the  ball- 
room. 

We  walked  round  to  tlie  spot,  preceded  by 
Mackay.  Mr.  Anderson*  made  a  very  appropri- 
ate prayer.  The  wind  was  very  high,  but  else  ev- 
ery  thing  went  off  as  well  as  could  possibly  be 
desired. 

The  workmen  and  people  all  gave  a  cheer  when 
the  whole  was  concluded.  In  about  three  quar- 
ters of  an  hour's  time  we  went  in  to  see  the  peo- 
pie  at  their  dinner,  and  after  this  walked  over  to 
Orai(/  Gowa7i  for  Albert  to  get  a  chance  for  black 
game. 

We  dressed  early,  and  went  for  twenty  minutes 
before  dinner  to  see  the  people  dancing  in  tho 
ballroom,  which  they  did  with  the  greatest  spirit. 


The  Kiek. 

October  29, 1854. 
We  went  to  Kirk,  as  usual,  at  twelve  o'clock. 
*  The  Minister  of  Crathie :  he  died  November,  1866. 


lU 


Life  in  the  Hijhlands. 


The  service  \v*as  performed  by  the  Kev.  Norman 
McLeod,  of  Glasgoio,  son  of  Dr.  McLeod,  and  any 
thing  finer  I  never  heard.  The  sermon,  entirely 
extempore,  was  quite  admirable ;  so  simple,  and 
^  et  so  eloquent,  and  so  beautifully  argued  and 
put.  The  text  was  from  the  account  of  the  com- 
ing of  Nicodemus  to  Christ  by  night ;  St.  John, 
chaj)ter  iii.  Mr.  McLeod  showed  in  the  sermon 
how  we  all  tried  to  please  self,  and  live  for  that, 
and  in  so  doing  found  no  rest.  Christ  had  come 
not  only  to  die  for  us,  but  to  show  how  we  were 
to  live.  The  second  prayer  was  very  touching ; 
his  allusions  to  us  were  so  simple,  saying,  after 
his  mention  of  us, "  bless  their  children."  It  gave 
me  a  lump  in  my  throat,  as  also  when  he  prayed 
for  "  the  dying,  the  wounded,  the  widow^  and  the 
orphans."  Every  one  came  back  delighted ;  and 
how  satisfactory  it  is  to  come  back  from  church 
with  such  feelings !  The  servants  and  the  High- 
landers— all — were  equally  delighted. 


Arrival  at  the  New  Castle  at  Balmoral. 


September  7, 1855. 
At  a  quarter  past  seven  o'clock  we  arrived  at 


Life  in  the  Hujldands. 


145 


dear  Balmoral.  Strange,  very  strange,  it  seemed 
to  me  to  di'ive  past,  indeed  through  the  old  house, 
the  connecting  part  between  it  and  the  offices  be- 
ing broken  through.  The  new  house  looks  beau- 
tiful. The  tower  and  the  rooms  in  the  connect- 
ing part  are,  however,  only  half  finished,  and  the 
offices  are  still  unbuilt,  therefore  the  gentlemen 
(except  the  Minister*)  live  in  the  old  house,  and 
so  do  most  of  the  servants ;  there  is  a  long  wood- 
en passage  which  connects  the  new  house  with 
the  offices.  An  old  shoe  was  thrown  after  us  into 
the  house,  for  good  luck,  when  we  entered  the 
hall.  The  house  is  charming ;  the  rooms  delight- 
ful ;  the  furniture,  papers,  every  thing  perfection. 


# 


Impkessions  of  the  New  Castle. 

September  8, 1855. 
The  view  from  the  windows  of  our  rooms,  and 
from  the  library,  drawing-room,  etc.,  below  them, 
of  the  valley  of  the  Dee,  with  the  mountains  in 
the  background,  which  one  never  could  see  from 
the  old  house,  is  quite  beautiful.     We  walked 

*  A  Cabinet  Minister  is  always  in  attendance  u))on  tin- 
Queen  at  Balmoral. 

G 


146 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


about,  and  alongside  the  river,  and  looked  at  all 
that  has  been  done,  and  considered  all  that  has  to 
be  done,  and  afterward  we  went  over  to  the  poor 
dear  old  house,  and  to  our  rooms,  which  it  was 
quite  melancholy  to  see  so  deserted,  and  settled 
about  things  being  brought  over. 


! 


.^     I 


n 


!  News  of  the  Fall  of  Sevastopol. 

-  Se^jtemheT  \^^V^^^, 

Mamma,  and  her  lady  and  gentleman,  to  dinner. 
All  were  in  constant  expectation  of  more  tele- 
graphic dispatches.  At  half  past  ten  o'clock  two 
arrived — one  for  me,  and  one  for  Lord  Granville. 
I  began  reading  mine,  which  was  from  Lord  Clar- 
endon, with  details  from  Marshal  Pelissier  of  the 
farther  destruction  of  the  Russian  ships;  and 
Lord  Granville  said,  "  I  have  still  better  news ;" 
on  which  he  read,  "  From  General  Simpson — 8e- 
vctsUypol  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Allies^  God  be 
praised  for  it !  Our  delight  was  great ;  but  we 
could  hardly  believe  the  good  news,  and,  from 
having  so  long,  so  anxiously  expected  it,  one  could 
not  realize  the  actual  fact. 


Life,  in  the,  Highlands. 


147 


the 
id 

be 
we 
om 

Id 


Albert  said  they  should  go  at  once  and  light 
the  bonfire  which  had  been  prepared  when  the 
false  report  of  the  fall  of  the  town  arrived  last 
year,  and  had  remained  ever  since,  waiting  to  be 
lit.  On  the  5th  of  November,  the  day  of  the  bat- 
tle of  Inkermann,  the  wind  upset  it,  strange  to 
say;  and  now  again,  most  strangely,  it  only  seem- 
ed to  wait  for  our  return  to  be  lit. 

The  new  house  seems  to  be  lucky  indeed,  for, 
from  the  first  moment  of  our  arrival,  we  have  had 
good  news.  In  a  few  minutes  Albert  and  all  the 
gentlemen,  in  every  species  of  attire,  sallied  forth, 
followed  by  all  the  servants,  and  gradually  by  all 
the  population  of  the  village  —  keepers,  gillies, 
workmen — up  to  the  top  of  the  cairn.  We  wait- 
ed, and  saw  them  light  it,  accompanied  by  general 
cheering.  The  bonfire  blazed  forth  brilliantly, 
and  we  could  see  the  numerous  figures  surround- 
ing it — some  dancing,  all  shouting ;  Ross*  play- 
ing his  pipes,  and  Grant  and  Macdonald  firing  off 
guns  continually ;  while  poor  old  Francois  d'Al- 
bertauQonf  lighted  a  number  of  squibs  below,  the 
greater  part  of  which  would  not  go  off.     About 

*  My  Piper  since  1854;  he  h.id  served  seventeen  years 
in  the  42d  Highlanders — a  very  respectable,  good  man. 

f  An  old  servant  of  Sir  II.  Gordon's,  who  had  charge  of 
the  house,  and  was  a  native  of  Alsace.     He  died  in  1858. 


!  : 


I     ! 


U8 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


three  quarters  of  an  hour  after,  Albert  came 
down,  and  said  the  scene  had  been  wild  and  ex- 
citing beyond  every  thing.  The  people  had  been 
drinking  healths  in  whisky,  and  were  in  great 
ecstasy.  The  whole  house  seemed  in  a  wonder- 
ful state  of  excitement.  The  boys  were  with 
difficulty  awakened,  and  when  at  last  this  was 
the  case,  they  begged  leave  to  go  up  to  the  top 
of  the  cairn. 

We  remained  till  a  quarter  to  twelve ;  and,  just 
as  I  was  undressing,  all  the  people  came  down 
under  the  windows,  the  pipes  playing,  the  people 
singing,  firing  off  guns,  and  cheering — first  for  me, 
then  for  Albert,  the  Emperor  of  the  French,  and 
the  "  downfall  of  Sevastopol^ 


The  Betrothal  of  the  Princess  Koyal. 


i 


September  29, 1855. 
Our  dear  Victoria  was  this  day  engaged  to 
Prince  Frederick  William  of  Prussia,  who  had 
been  on  a  visit  to  us  since  the  14th.  He  had 
already  spoken  to  us,  on  the  20th,  of  his  wishes ; 
but  we  were  uncertain,  on  account  of  her  extreme 


Life  in  the  Hiyldands. 


149 


youth,  whether  he  should  speak  to  her  himself,  or 
wait  till  he  came  back  again.  However,  we  felt 
it  was  better  he  should  do  so ;  and  dui'iug  our 
ride  up  Craig-na-Ban  this  afternoon,  he  picked  a 
piece  of  white  heather  (the  emblem  of  "  good 
luck"),  which  he  gave  to  her,  and  this  enabled 
him  to  make  an  allusion  to  his  hopes  and  wishes 
as  they  rode  down  Glen  Girnocli^  which  led  to 
this  happy  conclusion. 


The  Kirk. 


October  U,lSi)5. 
To  Kirk  at  twelve  o'clock  The  Kev.  J.  Caird, 
one  of  the  most  celebrated  preachers  in  Scotland, 
performed  the  service,  and  electiified  all  present 
by  a  most  admirable  and  beautiful  sermon,  which 
lasted  nearly  an  hour,  but  which  kept  one's  at- 
tention riveted.  The  text  was  from  the  twelfth 
chapter  of  Komans,  and  the  eleventh  verse :  ^^JVot 
slothful  in  business  /  fervent  in  gpirit ;  serving  the 
Lordr  He  explained,  in  the  most  beautiful  and 
simple  manner,  what  real  religion  is;  how  it  ought 
to  pervade  every  action  of  our  lives;  not  a  thing 


n 

1 

t 

1 

, 

' 

;. 

i 

1 

;1 

r 

1 


150 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


only  for  Sundays,  or  for  our  closet ;  not  a  thing  to 
drive  us  from  the  world ;  not  "a  perpetual  moping 
over  '  good'  books,"  but "  being  and  doing  good ;" 
"letting  every  thing  be  done  in  a  Christian  spirit." 
It  was  as  fine  as  Mr.  McLeod's  sermon  last  year, 
and  sent  us  home  much  edified. 


Feeding  the  Old  Castle  Gone. 

August  30, 1856. 
On  arriving  at  Balmoral  at  seven  o'clock  iu 
the  evening,  we  found  the  tower  finished  as  well 
as  the  offices,  and  the  poor  old  house  gone !     The 
effect  of  the  whole  is  very  fine. 


Gardens,  etc.,  round  the  New  Castle. 

August  31, 1856. 
We  walked  along  the  river  and  outside  the 
house.    The  new  offices  and  the  yard  are  excel- 
lent ;  and  the  little  garden  on  the  west  side,  with 


m 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


161 


the  eagle  fountain  which  the  King  of  Prussia  gave 
me,  and  which  used  to  be  in  the  graen-house  at 
Windsor,  is  extremely  pretty,  as  are  also  the 
flower-beds  under  the  walls  of  the  side  which 
faces  the  Dee.  There  are  sculptured  arms  on  the 
different  shields,  gilt,  which  has  a  very  good 
effect ;  and  a  bas-relief  under  our  windows — not 
gilt  —  representing  St.  Hubert,  with  St.  Andrew 
on  one  side  and  St.  George  on  the  other  side,  all 
done  by  Mr.  Thomas.* 


Love  for  Balmoral. 


October  13, 1856. 
Every  year  iny  heart  becomes  more  fixed  in 
this  dear  Paradise,  and  so  much  more  so  now  that 
all  has  become  my  dearest  Albert's  own  creation, 
own  work,  own  building,  own  laying  out,  as  at 
Osborne;  and  his  great  taste,  and  the  impress 
of  his  dear  hand,  have  been  stamped  every  where. 
He  was  very  busy  to-day,  settling  and  arranging 
many  things  for  next  year. 

*  He  died  in  March,  1862.     The  Prince  had  a  high  opin- 
ion of  his  taste. 


\H 


Il 


I 


II 


152  //?/e  in  the  JJiyhlamld. 


Opening  of  the  New  Bridge  over  the 
Linn  of  Dee. 

September  8, 1857. 

At  half  past  one  o'clock  we  stai*ted  in  "  High- 
land state" — Albert  in  a  royal  Stuart  plaid,  and 
I  and  the  girls  in  skirts  of  the  same — with  the 
ladies  (who  had  only  returned  at  five  in  the 
morning  from  the  ball  at  Mar  Lodge)  and  gentle- 
men, for  the  Ia7i?i  of  Dee,  to  open  the  new  bridge 
there.  The  valley  lookc^  beautiful.  A  triumph- 
al arch  was  erected,  at  which  Lord  Fife  and  Mr. 
Brooke  received  us,  and  walked  near  the  carnage, 
pipers  playing  —  the  road  lined  with  Duff  men. 
On  the  bridge  Lady  Fife  received  us,  and  we  all 
drank  in  whisky  "  prosperity  to  the  bridge."  The 
view  of  the  linn  is  very  nne  from  it. 

All  the  company  and  a  band  were  outside  a 
tent  on  the  bank  overlooking  the  bridge.  Here 
we  took  some  tea,  talked  with  the  compr.ny,  and 
then  drove  back  by  Mar  Lodge,  the  Fifes  preced- 
ing us  to  the  end  of  the  grounds.  The  same  peo- 
ple were  there  as  at  the  Gatherings — the  Camp- 
dens,  Errolls,  Airlies,  old  Lacy  Duff,  and  Mr.  and 
Lady  L.  Brooke,  and  others.  We  were  home  at 
half  past  five,  not  without  having  some  rain  by 
the  way. 


i 


:l 


I 


•    I 


Life  in  the  lliyldanda. 


163 


\\ 


Visits  to  the  Old  Women. 

Saturday^  Septemhei*  26, 1857. 

Albert  Went  out  with  Alfred  for  the  day,  and  I 
walked  out  with  the  two  girls  and  Lady  Church- 
ill ;  stopped  at  the  shop  and  made  some  purchases 
for  poor  people  and  others ;  drove  a  little  way,  got 
out  and  walked  up  the  hill  to  Balnacroft,  Mrs.  P. 
Farquharson's,  and  she  walked  round  with  us  to 
some  of  the  cottages  to  show  me  where  the  poor 
people  lived,  and  to  tell  them  who  I  was.  Before 
we  went  into  any  we  met  an  old  woman,  who, 
Mrs.  Farquharson  said,  was  very  i:)oor,  eighty-eight 
years  old,  and  mother  to  the  fonner  distiller.  I 
gave  her  a  \varm  petticoat,  and  the  tears  rolled 
down  her  old  cheeks,  and  she  shook  my  hands, 
and  prayed  God  to  bless  me :  it  was  very  touching. 

I  went  into  a  small  cabin  of  old  Kitty  Kear's, 
who  is  eighty-six  years  old — quite  erect,  and  who 
welcomed  us  with  a  great  air  of  dignity.  She  sat 
down  and  spun.  I  gave  her,  also,  a  warm  petti- 
coat ;  she  said, "  May  the  Lord  ever  attend  ye  and 
yours,  here  and  hereafter ;  and  may  the  Lord  be 
a  guide  to  ye,  and  keep  ye  fi'om  all  harm."  She 
was  quite  surprised  at  Vicky's  height ;  great  in- 
terest is  taken  in  her.     We  went  on  to  a  cottage 

G2 


164 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


M 


(formerly  Jean  Gordon's)  to  visit  old  widow  Sy- 
mons,  who  is  "  past  fourscore,"  with  a  nice  rosy 
face,  but  was  bent  quite  double ;  she  was  most 
friendly,  shaking  hands  with  us  all,  asking  which 
was  I,  and  repeating  many  kind  blessings :  "  May 
the  Lord  attend  ye  with  mirth  and  with  joy ;  may 
He  ever  be  with  ye  in  this  world,  and  when  ye 
leave  it."  To  Vicky,  when  told  she  was  going  to 
be  married,  she  said, "  May  the  Lord  be  a  guide  to 
ye  in  your  future,  and  may  eveiy  happiness  attend 
ye."  She  was  very  talkative ;  and  when  I  said  I 
hoped  to  see  her  again,  she  expressed  an  expecta- 
tion that "  she  should  be  called  any  day,"  and  so 
did  Kitty  Kear.* 

We  went  into  three  other  cottages — to  Mrs. 
Symons's  (daughter-in-law  to  the  old  widow  liv- 
ing next  door),  who  had  an  "  unwell  boy ;"  then 
across  a  little  burn  to  another  old  woman's ;  and 
afterward  peeped  into  Blair  the  fiddler's.  We 
drove  back,  and  got  out  again  to  visit  old  Mrs. 
Grant  (Grant's  mother),  who  is  so  tidy  and  clean, 
and  to  whom  I  gave  a  dress  and  handkerchief,  and 
she  said,  "You're  too  kind  to  me ;  you're  over  kind 
to  me ;  ye  give  me  more  every  year,  and  I  get  old- 
er every  year."  After  talking  some  time  with  her, 
she  said, "  I  am  happy  to  see  ye  looking  so  nice." 

*  She  died  in  January,  1 865. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


155 


She  had  tears  in  her  eyes,  and  speaking  of  Vicky's 
going,  said, "  I'm  very  sorry,  and  1  think  she  is  sor- 
ly  hersel' ;"  and,  having  said  she  feared  she  would 
not  see  her  (the  Princess)  again,  said, "  I  am  very 
sorry  I  said  that,  but  I  meant  no  harm ;  I  always 
say  just  what  I  think,  not  what  is  fut"  (fit).  Dear 
old  lady ;  she  is  such  a  pleasant  person, 

Keally  the  affection  of  these  good  people,  who 
are  so  hearty  and  so  happy  to  see  you,  taking  in- 
terest in  every  thing,  is  very  touching  and  grati 


k    1 


Visit  to  the  Prince's  Encampment  at  Feitiiort. 

Tuesday,  October  6, 1857. 
At  twelve  o'clock  I  drove  off  with  the  two  girls 
to  the  "  Irons,"  where  we  mounted  our  ponies,  and 
rode  up  (Brown  and  Robertson  attending  on  foot) 
through  the  Corrie  Buie,  along  the  pretty  new 
path  through  Feithluie  to  the  foot  of  the  very 
steep  ascent  to  Feithort,  where  we  got  off  and 
walked  up,  and  suddenly,  when  nearly  at  the  top 
of  the  path,  came  upon  Albert's  little  encamp- 
ment, which  was  just  at  the  edge  of  the  wir.ding 
path. 


^  H  I 

''i 
«-■■ 

i  '■' 


i  i' 


II 

M 


ii 


166 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Albert  was  still  absent,  ha  ^ing  gone  out  at  six 
o'clock,  but  Lohlein  and  some  of  the  gillies  were 
there.  The  little  house,  with  shelves  for  keeping 
a  few  boxes  (no  seat),  and  a  little  stove,  was  not 
at  all  uncomfortable ;  but  the  wind  was  dread- 
fully high,  and  blew  in.  We  waited  for  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  when  Albert  arrived ;  he  had 
been  out  since  six  o'clock,  shot  three  stags,  but 
only  got  one  bad  one.  The  fine  one,  yesterday 
evening,  had  cost  him  much  trouble.  The  night 
had  been  bHterly  cold  and  windy;  but  he  had 
slept.  We  lunched  in  the  little  "  housie"  at  the 
open  door.  There  was  a  second  hut  for  the  peo- 
ple.    Luncheon  over,  we  walked  down  and  across 


'••  * 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


157 


the  greater  part  of  the  JBalloch  Buie,,  mounting 
our  ponies  wherever  it  was  wet.  We  saw  deer 
as  we  came  lower  down,  and  all  of  a  sudden  a  stag 
was  seen  quite  close  by  the  path  ;  Albert  shot 
him,  and  he  fell  at  once.  He  had  very  fine  horns, 
a  royal  on  one  side. 

Then  they  t)eat  up  to  the  Craig  Daign.  Poor 
Albert  was  much  tired,  and  had  to  walk  all  the 
time,  as  he  had  no  pony ;  we  rode  part  of  the  way. 
Then  the  knver  part  of  the  road  was  driven.  As 
we  were  sitting  by  a  tree  close  to  Albert  a  stag 
came  out,  and  Albeii:  killed  him  at  one  shot.  A 
fine  day,  though  at  times  it  has  been  very  cold. 
We  got  home  at  half  past  six. 


A  Fall  of  Sn^ow. 


September  18, 1858. 
Alas !  the  last  day !  When  we  got  up  the 
weather  seemed  very  hopeless.  Every  thing  was 
white  with  snow,  which  lay  at  least  an  inch  on 
the  ground,  and  it  continued  snowing  heavily,  as 
it  had  done  since  five  this  m.orning.  I  wished  we 
might  be  snowed  up,  and  unable  to  move.     How 


11 


iii  I 

lift  I 


h  i!if 


158 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


happy  I  should  have  been  could  it  have  been  so ! 
It  continued  snowing  till  half  past  ten  or  eleven, 
and  then  it  began  to  clear  up.  The  hills  appear- 
ed quite  white ;  the  sun  came  out,  and  it  became 
splendidly  bright.  Albert  was  going  to  have 
the  woods  driven — which  are  not  properly  called 
Carrop  WoodSy  but  Garmaddie  Woods  —  but  had 
first  to  ride  round  Craig  Gowan  with  Dr.  Robert- 
son to  see  Hohrecliy  the  place  where  Duncan's  new 
house  16  to  be  built,  which  is  above  the  village, 
opposite  Ci^aig  Lairagliain^  with  a  most  splendid 
view ;  and  at  Grant's  house  I  was  to  meet  him. 

At  one  o'clock  I  left  with  Alice  and  Lenchen* 
for  Grant's,  where  we  met  Albert,  who  joined  us 
in  the  carriage :  the  day  was  truly  splendid.  We 
got  out  at  the  river,  and  were  going  down  to 
Nelly's  Bushy  when  a  stag  was  heard  roaring  very 
near ;  so  we  had  to  stop,  and,  with  our  plaids  and 
cloaks  to  sit  upon,  really  avoided  getting  very  wet. 
We  waited  till  Albert  was  near  to  the  stag,  saw  it 
move,  heard  Albert  fire  twice,  and  the  stag  turn, 
stop,  and  then  disappear.  Albert  fired  again,  but 
the  stag  had  crossed  the  Dee'^  so  we  turned  up 
on  to  the  road,  and  went  into  the  dear  old  Corrie 
Buie;  Albeii;  turning  oif  to  see  if  there  were  any 
deer  near,  while  we  waited  for  him.     We  then 

*  Princess  Helena. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


169 


came  to  a  place  which  is  always  wet,  but  which 
was  particularly  bad  after  the  late  rain  and  snow. 
There  was  no  pony  for  me  to  get  on ;  and  as  I 
wished  not  to  get  my  feet  wet  by  walking  through 
the  long  grass,  Albert  proposed  I  should  be  car- 
ried over  in  a  plaid ;  and  Lenchen  was  first  car- 
ried over ;  but  it  was  held  too  low,  and  her  feet 
dangled ;  so  Albert  suggested  the  plaid  should  be 
put  round  the  men's  shoulders,  and  that  I  should 
sit  upon  it ;  Brown  and  Duncan,  the  two  strongest 
and  handiest,  were  the  two  who  undertook  it,  and 
I  sat  safely  enough  with  an  arm  on  each  man's 
shoulder,  and  was  carried  successfully  over.  All 
the  Highlanders  are  so  amusing,  and  really  pleas- 
ant and  instructive  to  talk  to — women  as  well  as 
men — and  the  latter  so  gentlemanlike.*    Albert's 

*  A  similar  view  to  that  given  in  the  text  is  admirably- 
expressed  by  the  Reverend  Frederick  W.  Robertson  in  his 
Lectures  on  Literary  and  Social  Topics,  and  his  description 
of  a  Tyrolese  'm  even  more  applicable  to  a  Highlander. 

"  My  companion  was  a  Tyrolese  chamois-hunter,  a  man 
who,  in  point  of  social  position,  might  rank  with  an  En- 
glish laborer.  I  fear  there  would  be  a  difficulty  in  En- 
glanc  in  making  such  a  companionship  pleasurable  and 
easy  to  both  parties ;  there  would  be  a  painful  obsequi- 
ousness, or  else  an  insolent  familiarity  on  the  one  side, 
constraint  on  the  other.  In  this  case  there  was  nothing 
of  that  sort.  We  walked  together  and  ate  together.  He 
had  all  the  independence  of  a  man,  but  he  knew  the  court- 


13 


r 


% 


160 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


shots  were  heard  close  by  while  we  were  at  lunch- 
eon, and  there  was  a  general  rush  of  all  the  peo- 
ple. Albeii:  joined  us  soon  after ;  he  had  had  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  in  stalking  his  stag,  which 
he  had  been  after  several  days,  but  had  killed 
him  at  one  shot.  He  was  brought  for  us  to  see : 
a  very  light-colored  one,  with  fine  straight  horns, 
of  extraordinary  thickness.  After  this  we  walked 
on  for  a  beat  quite  round  Carro]^  ;  and  the  view 
was  glorious !    A  little  shower  of  snow  had  fallen, 

esy  which  was  due  to  a  stranger ;  and  when  we  parted  for 
the  n.'ght,  he  took  his  leave  with  a  politeness  and  dignity 
which  would  have  done  no  discredit  to  the  most  finished 
gentleman.  The  reason,  as  it  seemed  to  me,  was  that  his 
character  hnd  been  moulded  by  the  sublimities  of  the  forms 
of  the  outward  nature  amid  which  he  lived.  It  was  im- 
possible to  see  the  clouds  wreathing  themselves  in  that 
strange  wild  way  of  theirs  round  the  mountain  crests,  till 
the  hills  seemed  to  become  awful  things,  instinct  with  life 
— it  was  impossible  to  walk,  as  we  did  sometimes,  an  hour 
or  two  before  sunrise,  and  see  the  morning's  beams  gilding 
with  their  pure  light  the  grand  old  peaks  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  valley,  while  we  ourselves  were  still  in  deepest 
shade,  and  look  on  that  man,  his  very  exterior  in  harmony 
with  all  aroimd  him,  and  his  calm  eye  resting  on  all  that 
wondrous  spectacle,  without  a  feeling  that  these  things 
had  had  their  part  in  making  him  what  he  was,  and  that 
you  were  in  a  country  in  which  men  were  bound  to  be 
polished,  bound  to  be  more  refined,  almost  bound  to  be 
better  men  than  elsewhere." 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


161 


but  was  succeeded  by  brilliant  sunshine.  The 
hills  covered  with  snow,  the  golden  birch-trees  on 
the  lower  brown  hills,  and  the  bright  afternoon 
sky,  were  indescribably  beautiful.  The  following 
lines*  admirably  portray  what  I  then  saw : 

"  The  gorgeous  briglit  October, 

Then  when  brackens  are  changed,  and  heather  blooms  are 
fjided, 

And  amid  russet  of  heather  and  fern,  green  trees  are  bonnie ; 

Alders  are  green,  and  oaks ;  the  rowan  scarlet  and  yellow ; 

One  great  glory  of  broad  gold  pieces  appears  the  aspen. 

And  the  jewels  of  gold  that  were  hung  in  the  hair  of  the 
birch-tree, 

Pendulous,  here  and  there,  her  coronet,  necklace,  and  ear- 
rings, 

Cover  her  now,  o'er  and  o'er;  she  is  weary  and  scatters 

them  from  her." 

Oh !  how  I  gazed  and  gazed  on  God's  glorious 
works  wiih  a  sad  heart,  from  its  being  for  the  last 
time,  and  tried  to  carry  the  scene  away,  well  im- 
planted and  fixed  in  my  mind,  for  this  effect  with 
the  snow  we  shall  not  often  see  again.  We  saw 
it  like  this  in  1852,  but  we  have  not  seen  it  so 
since,  though  we  have  often  had  snow-storms  and 
showers,  with  a  little  snow  lying  on  the  highest 
hills. 

*  Tlie  Bothie  of  Tober-na-Vuolich.    By  Ai*thur  Hugh 
Clough. 


« 


b 


162 


Ldje  in  the  Highlands. 


Ascent  of  Morven. 

September  14, 1859. 

I  felt  very  low-spirited  at  my  dearest  Albert 
having  to  leave  at  one  o'clock  for  Aberdeen^  to 
preside  at  the  meeting  of  the  British  Association. 

I,  with  Alice,  the  two  ladies,  Lord  Charles  Fitz- 
roy,  and  Brown,  left  shortly  before  for  Morven, 
We  took  post-horses  at  the  foot  of  Gairn^  and 
drove  by  the  right  side  of  the  glen,  along  a  new 
good  road,  avoiding  the  ford,  and  by  half  past 
two  we  were  at  the  foot  of  Morven^  not  far  from 
the  shooting-lodge  there.  Here  we  mounted  our 
ponies,  and  our  caravan  started  with  the  gillies — 
Jemmie  Coutts,  an  old  acquaintance,  now  keeper 
at  the  lodge,  leading  the  way.  About  half  way, 
at  a  burn-side,  we  stopped,  seated  ourselves  on 
plaids  on  the  fine  springy  turf,  and  took  luncheon; 
then  walked  about,  sketched,  mounted  our  ponies, 
and  rode  up  to  the  top,  which  was  rather  steep 
and  soft — "foggy,"  as  Brown  called  it,  which  is 
the  Highland  expression  for  mossy — my  little 
pony,  being  so  fat,  panted  dreadfully.  Morven  is 
2700  feet  high,  and  the  view  from  it  moie  mag- 
nificent than  can  be  described,  so  large  and  yet  so 
near  every  thing  seemed,  and  such  seas  of  mount- 


Life  ill  the  Ilicjhlands. 


163 


tiins  with  blue  lights,  and  the  color  so  wonder- 
fully beautiful.  We  looked  down  upon  the  Duke 
of  Richmond's  property,  and  saw  the  mountain 
called  the  Buck  of  Cahrach,  and  still  farther  on 
the  Slate  Hills;  to  the  east,  Aberdeen  and  the 
blue  sea,  and  we  could  even  see  the  ships  with 
the  naked  eye:  the  table-land  between  Tarland 
and  Ballater 'y  and  stretching  out  below,  due 
south,  Mount  Keen.  To  the  southwest,  Loch-na- 
Gar  /  to  the  west,  Ben  A^an  and  Ben-narBTiourd 
— "  the  land  of  QairnJ''  as  they  call  it — and  Mu- 
ich;  and  Deeside  in  the  foreground.  It  was  en- 
chanting! "We  walked  down  to  where  we  had 
lunched^  and  rode  to  the  bottom.  Here  we  found 
a  fire,  also  tea  with  cakes,  etc.,  which  had  been 
very  kindly  prepared  for  us  by  a  lady  and  gentle- 
man, the  daughter  and  son  of  Sir  J.  G.  RatcliflP, 
living  in  the  shooting-lodge.  We  drank  the  tea, 
and  left  in  the  carriage  at  half  past  six  o'clock, 
reaching  Balmoral  at  half  past  seven.  So  sad 
not  to  find  my  darling  Husband  at  home. 


IG-i  Lift  in,  Ihe  Iliyhlandti. 


The  Piunce's  Returtt  from  Aberdeen. 

Septemher  15, 1859. 
I  heard  by  telegram  last  night  that  Albert's 
reception  was  admirable,  and  that  all  was  going 
off  as  well  as  possible.  Thank  God.  I  ascended 
Loc/i-na-Gar  with  Alice,  Helena,  Bertie,  Lady 
Churchill,  Colonel  Bruce,  and  our  usual  attend- 
ants, and  returned  after  six  o'clock.  At  ten 
minutes  past  seven  arrived  my  beloved  Albert. 
All  had  gone  off  most  admirably;  he  had  seen 
many  learned  people ;  all  were  delighted  with  his 
speech ;  the  recejition  most  gratifying.  Bancliory 
House  (Mr.  Thomson's),  where  he  lodged  (four 
miles  from  Aberdeen),  was,  he  said,  very  comfort- 
able. 


Fete  to  the  Mejibers  of  the  British 
Association. 

September  22, 1859. 
The   morning  dawned  brightly.     Suddenly  a 
very  high  wind  arose  which  alarmed  us,  but  yet 
it  looked  bright,  and  we  hoped  the  wind  ^vould 


i 


m 


Lij'e  in  the  Highlands. 


165 


keep  off  the  rain ;  but  after  breakfast,  while  watch- 
ing the  preparations,  showers  began,  and  from 
half  past  eleven  a  fearful  down-pour,  with  that 
white  curtain-like  appearance  which  is  so  alarm- 
ing ;  and  this  lasted  till  half  past  twelve.  I  was 
in  despair;  but  at  length  it  began  to  clear,  just  as 
the  neighbors  with  their  families,  and  some  of  the 
farmers  opposite  (the  Herrons,  Duncans,  Brown's 
father  and  brothers),  arrived,  and  then  came  the 
huge  omnibuses  and  carriages  laden  with  "  philos- 
ophers." At  two  o'clock  we  were  all  ready.  Al- 
bert and  the  boys  were  in  their  kilts,  and  I  and 
the  girls  in  royal  Stuart  skirts  and  shawls  over 
black  velvet  bodies.  ' 

It  was  a  beautiful  sight  in  spite  of  the  frequent 
slight  showers  which  at  first  tormented  us,  and 
the  very  high,  cold  wind.  There  were  gleams  of 
sunshine,  which,  with  the  Highlanders  in  their 
brilliant  and  picturesque  dresses,  the  wild  notes 
of  the  pipes,  the  band,  and  the  beautiful  back- 
ground of  mountains,  rendered  the  scene  wild  and 
striking  in  the  extreme.  The  Farquharson's  men 
headed  by  Colonel  Farquharson,  the  Duff's  by 
Lord  Fife,  and  the  Forbes's  men  by  Sir  Charles 
Forbes,  had  all  mr^rched  on  the  ground  before  we 
came  out,  and  were  drawn  up  just  opposite  to  us, 
and  the  spectators  (the  people  of  the  country) 


!!•-», 


i. 


I 


166 


Idfe  in  the  Highlands. 


!i 


u, 

!iii. 


behind  them.  We  stood  on  the  terrace,  the  com- 
pany near  us,  and  the  "  savants,"  also,  on  either 
side  of  us,  and  along  the  slopes,  on  the  grounds. 
The  games  began  about  three  o'clock : 

1.  "  Throwing  the  Hammer." 

2.  "  Tossing  the  Caber." 

3.  "  Putting  the  Stone." 

We  gave  prizes  to  the  three  best  in  each  of  the 
games.  We  walked  along  the  terrace  to  the  large 
marquee,  talking  to  the  people,  to  where  the  men 
were  "  putting  the  stone."  After  this  returned  to 
tlie  upper  terrace,  to  sp<^  the  race,  a  pretty,  wild 
sight;  but  the  men  looked  very  cold, with  noth- 
ing but  their  shirts  and  kilts  on ;  they  ran  beau- 
tifully. They  wrapped  plaids  round  themselves, 
and  then  came  to  receive  the  prizes  from  me. 
Last  of  all  came  the  dancing — reels  and  "  Ghillie 
Galium."  The  latter  the  judges  could  not  make 
up  their  minds  about;  it  was  danced  over  and 
over  again ;  and  at  last  they  left  out  the  best  dan- 
cer of  all !  They  said  he  danced  "  too  well !" 
The  dancing  over,  we  left  amid  the  loud  cheers  of 
the  people.  It  was  then  about  half  past  fiYe. 
We  watched  from  the  window  the  Highlac  lers 
marching  away,  the  different  people  walking  off, 
and  four  weighty  omnibuses  filling  with  the  sci- 


iftjj  1^ 


1    iC' 


Life,  in  the  Jlighlands. 


167 


entific  men.  We  bhWj  and  talked  to,  Professor 
Owen,  Sir  David  Brewster,  Sir  John  Bowring, 
Mr.  J.  Roscoe,  and  Sir  John  Eoss.* 

When  almost  all  were  gone,  we  took  a  short 
walk  to  warm  ourselves.  Much  pleased  at  every- 
thing having  gone  off  well.  The  Duke  of  Rich- 
mond, Sir  R.  Murchison,  General  Sabine,  Mr.  Thom- 
son of  Bancliory  House,  and  Professor  Phillipps, 
Secretaiy  of  the  Association,  all  of  whom  slept 
here,  were  additions  to  the  dinner-party.  I  sat 
between  our  cousin  Philip  (Count  of  Flanders) 
and  the  Duke  of  Richmond.  All  the  gentlemen 
spoke  in  very  high  terras  of  my  beloved  Albert's 
admirable  speech,  the  good  it  had  done,  and  the 
general  satisfaction  it  had  caused. 

We  could  see  the  fire  of  the  Forbes's  encamp- 
ment on  the  opposite  side. 

*  During  the  feti ,  wo  heard  from  Sir  R.  Murchison  and 
others  that  news  had  been  received  this  morning  of  tho 
finding  of  poor  Sir  John  Franklin's  remains — or,  rather,  of 
the  things  belonging  to  him  and  his  party. 


168 


Life  in  the  Uiijhlanils. 


Expedition  to  Inciikory. 


I 


II: 


m 


!5:i     ■ 


li 


-     i!|' 


liii 


;.  [ 


!! 


S€])temher  30, 1859. 

At  twenty  minutes  past  eleven  we  started  with 
Helena  and  Louise  in  the  socialjle,  Grant  on  the 
box,  for  Loch  Bulig^  passing  the  farms  of  Blair- 
glass  and  of  Dall  Dounie^  and  the  shooting-lodge 
of  Corndavon^  ten  miles  distant.  Here  we  found 
our  ponies  (mine  being  "Victoria"),  and  rode 
along  the  edge  of  the  lake,  up  a  beautiful  glen, 
by  a  path  winding  through  the  valley,  which  ap- 
peared frequeatly  closed.  We  then  rode  along  a 
small  river  or  l)urn,  of  which  no  one  knew  the 
name,  none  of  our  party  having  ever  been  there 
before.  The  hills  were  sprinkled  with  birch-trees, 
and  there  was  grass  below  in  the  valley ;  we  saw 
deer.  As  we  approached  IncJirory  (a  shooting- 
lodge  of  Lord  H.  Bentinck's)  the  scenery  became 
finer  and  finer,  reminding  us  of  Glen  Tilt^  and  was 
most  beautiful  at  Inclirorv,  with  the  fine  broad 
water  of  the  Avon  flowing  down  from  the  mount- 
ains. 

We  inquired  of  the  people  at  Inchrory  whether 
there  was  any  way  of  getting  round  over  the  hills 
by  Gairn  Shielj  and  they  said  there  was,  but  that 
the  distance  was  about  1 1  miles.     Neither  Grant 


Life  in  the  Ilirjhlands. 


169 


nor  Brown  had  been  that  way.  However,  we  ac- 
cepted it  at  once,  and  I  was  delighted  to  go  on  (t 
Timproviste^  traveling  about  in  these  enchanting 
hills  in  this  solitude,  with  only  our  good  High- 
landers with  us,  who  never  make  difficulties,  but 
are  cheerful,  and  happy,  and  merry,  and  ready  to 
talk,  and  run,  and  do  any  thing.  So  on  we  went, 
turning  up  above  Inclirory  l)y  a  winding  road  be- 
tween hillocks,  and  commanding  a  glorious  view 
toward  Laganaid.  Here,  on  a  little  grassy  knoll, 
we  lunched  in  a  splendid  position. 

After  our  luncheon,  and  walking  a  little  w\ay, 
we  remounted,  and  proceeded  by  the  so-called 
"Brown  Cow"  (on  the  other  side  of  which  we  had 
driven)  over  a  moor,  meeting  a  shepherd,  out  of 
whom  Grant  could  get  little  information.  Soon 
we  came  to  corn-fields  in  the  valley ;  passed  Mi- 
vancM  and  Inclimore,  and  got  on  to  a  good  road, 
on  ^vhich  Brown  and  Grant  "  traveled"  at  a  icon- 
derful  pace,  upward  of  five  miles  an  hour  with- 
out stopping ;  and  the  former  with  that  vigorous, 
light,  elastic  tread  which  is  quite  astonishing. 
We  passed  Dal-na-Dam])li  Shiel  (a  shooting-lodge 
of  Sir  Charles  Forbes),  and  went  along  the  old 
"Military  Road,"  leaving  Cochhridge,  a  small  strag- 
gling "  toun,"  which  is  on  the  road  to  Inverness^ 
to  our  left,  and  the  old  Castle  of  Corgarf  to  om* 

H 


SBB 


170 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


ricrlit.  We  looked  over  into  Donside.  The  road 
was  soon  left  for  a  mountain  one  in  the  hills, 
above  one  of  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Doiij 
and  was  wild  and  desolate ;  we  passed  Dal  Chou- 
par  and  Dal  Vown,  and,  as  we  ascended,  we  saw 
Tornahoisli^  at  a  distance  to  the  left.  After  going 
along  this  hill-track,  over  some  poor  and  tottering, 
bridges,  we  joined  the  road  by  which  we  had 
driven  to  Tornalioisli.  It  was  fast  getting  dark, 
but  was  very  fine.  I  and  the  girls  got  off  and 
walked  sharply  some  little  distance.  Albert  had 
walked  farther  on.  Grant  riding  his  pony  mean- 
time. P.  Robertson  and  Kennedy,  besides  those 
I  have  named,  carried  the  basket  alternately. 

We  remounted  our  ponies,  and  Brown  led  mine 
on  at  an  amazing  pace  up  the  Glasclwil  Hill,,  and 
we  finally  reached  Gaivn  Sliiel  after  seven,  quite 
in  the  dark.  There,  at  the  small  public  house,  we 
found  the  carriage,  and  drove  off  as  soon  as  we 
could ;  the  ponies  were  to  be  given  half  a  feed, 
and  then  to  come  on.  We  had  to  drive  home 
very  slowly,  as  the  road  is.  not  good,  and  very 
steep  in  parts. 

A  mild  night.  Home  by  ten  minutes  past 
eight,  enchanted  with  our  day.  How  I  w  isli  we 
could  travel  about  in  this  way,  and  see  all  the 
wild  spots  in  the  Higlilands !    We  had  gone  35 


11 


Life  in  ike  Highlands. 


171 


miles,  having  ridden  19  and  a  half!     The  little 
girls  were  in  great  glee  the  whole  time. 


AscEiTT  OF  Ben  Muicii  Dnui. 


35 


;       '  Friday,  October  n,\m^. 

Breakfast  at  half  past  eight.  At  ten  minutes 
to  nine  we  started  in  the  sociable,  with  Bertie, 
and  Alice,  and  our  usual  attendants.  Drove 
along  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The  day 
very  mild  and  promising  to  be  fine,  though  a  lit- 
tle heavy  over  the  hills,  which  we  anxiously 
watched.  At  Castleton  we  took  four  post-horses, 
and  drove  to  the  Sliiel  of  the  Derry,  that  beauti- 
ful spot  where  we  were  last  year — which  Albert 
had  never  seen  —  and  arrived  there  just  about 
eleven.  Our  ponies  were  there  "with  Kennedy, 
Kobertson,  and  Jemmie  Smith.  One  pony  carried 
the  luncheon-baskets.  After  all  the  cloaks,  etc., 
had  been  placed  on  the  ponies,  or  carried  by  the 
men,  we  mounted  and  began  our  "journey."  I 
was  on  "  Victoria,"  Alice  on  "  Dobbins."  George 
McHardy,  an  elderly  man  who  knew  the  country 
(and  acts  as  a  guide,  carrying  luggage  for  people 


if  ■ 


III 


172 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


11. fi 


across  the  liills  "on  beasts"  wliicli  he  keeps  for 
that  purpose),  led  the  way.  We  rode  (my  pony 
being  led  by  Brown  most  of  the  time  both  going 
up  and  down)  at  least  four  miles  up  Glen  Derry^ 
which  is  very  fine,  with  the  remnants  of  a  splen- 
did forest,  Cairn  Derry  being  to  the  right,  and 
the  Derry  Water  running  below.  The  track  was 
very  bad  and  stony,  and  broken  up  by  cattle  com- 
ing down  for  the  "Tryst."  At  the  end  of  the 
glen  we  crossed  a  ford,  passed  some  softish  ground, 
and  turned  up  to  the  left  by  a  very  rough,  steep, 
but  yet  gradual  ascent  to  Gorric  Etdmr.  which  is 
in  a  very  wild,  rugged  spot,  with  magnificent  prec- 
ipices, a  high  mountain  to  &^  right  called  Ben 
Main,  while  to  the  left  was  Cairngorm  of  Derry. 
When  we  reached  the  top  of  this  very  steep  as- 
cent (we  had  ber»n  ris'ng,  though  almost  imper- 
ceptibly, from  the  Derry  Shiel),  we  came  upon  a 
loch  of  the  same  name,  which  reminded  us  of 
Zoch  -  7ia  -  Gar  and  of  Lovh  ■  na  •  Nian.  You  look 
from  here  on  to  other  wild  hills  and  corries — on 
Ben  A' an,  etc.  We  ascended  v  jiy  gradually,  but 
l)ecame  so  enveloped  in  mist  that  we  could  see 
nothing  —  hardly  those  just  before  us!  Albert 
had  walked  a  good  deal,  and  it  was  very  cold. 
The  mist  got  worse ;  and  as  we  walked  along  the 
stony,  but  almost  flat  ridge  of  Ben  Muich  Dlixd, 


I 


t 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


173 


we  hardly  knew  whether  we  were  on  level  ground 
or  the  top  of  the  mountain.  HoAvever,  I  and  Alice 
rode  to  the  very  top;  and  here,  at  a  cairn  of 
stones,  we  lunched,  in  a  piercing  cold  wind. 

Just  as  we  sat  down,  a  gust  of  wind  came  and 
dispersed  the  mist,  which  had  a  most  wonderful, 
effect,  like  a  dissolving  view — and  exhibited  the 
grandest,  wildest  scenery  imaginable !  We  sat  on 
a  ridge  of  the  cairn  to  take  our  luncheon,  our  good 
people  being  grouped  with  the  ponies  near  us. 
Lunc.  leon  over,  Albert  van  off  with  Alice  to  the 
ridge  to  look  at  the  splendid  view,  and  sent  for 
me  to  follow.  I  did  so,  but  not  without  Grant's 
help,  for  there  were  quantities  of  large  loose  stones 
heaped  up  together  to  walk  upon.  The  wind  was 
fearfully  high,  but  the  \dew  was  well  worth  see- 
ing. I  can  not  describe  all,  but  we  saw  where  the 
Dee  rises  between  the  mountains  called  the  Well 
of  Dee — Den-y-Glilo — and  the  adjacent  Tuountains, 
Ben  Vrachie — then  Ben-na-Blioim'd — Ben  A^an^ 
etc. — and  such  magnificent  wild  rock«,  precipices, 
and  corries.  It  had  a  sublime  and  solemn  effect 
— so  wild,  so  solitary — no  one  but  ourselves  and 
our  little  party  there. 

Albert  went  on  farther  with  the  children,  but  I 
returned  with  Grant  to  my  seat  on  the  cairn,  as  I 
could  not  scramble  about  well.     Soon  after,  we 


It 


If 


174 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


w 


h ' 


t' 


all  began  \valking  and  looking  for  "  cairngorms  " 
and  found  some  small  ones.  The  mist  had  en- 
tirely cleared  away  below,  so  that  we  saw  all  the 
beautiful  views.  Ben  Muicli  Dhui  is  4297  feet 
high,  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  Scotland.  I 
and  Alice  rode  part  of  the  way,  walking  wherev- 
er it  was  very  steep.  Albert  and  Bertie  walked 
the  whole  time.  I  had  a  little  whisky  and  water, 
as  the  people  declared  pure  water  would  be  tOvO 
chilling.  We  then  rode  on  without  getting  off 
again,  Albert  talking  so  gayly  mth  Grant ;  upon 
which  Brown  observed  to  me  in  simple  Highland 
phrase, "  It's  very  pleasant  to  walk  with  a  person 
who  is  always  *  content.' "  Yesterday,  in  speak- 
ing of  dearest  Albert's  sport,  when  I  observed  he 
never  was  cross  after  bad  luck,  Brown  said, 
"  Every  one  on  the  estate  says  there  never  was  so 
kind  a  master ;  I  am  sure  our  only  wish  is  to  give 
satisfaction."     I  said  they  certainly  did.* 

By  a  quarter  past  six  o'clock  we  got  down  to 
the  Sliiel  of  tJie  Derry^  where  we  found  some  tea, 
which  we  took  in  the  "  shiel,"f  and  started  again 

*  We  were  ahvays  in  the  habit  of  conversing  with  the 
Highlanders,  with  whom  one  comes  so  much  m  contact  in 
the  Highlands.  The  Prince  highly  appreciated  the  good- 
breeding,  simplicity,  and  intelligence,  which  make  it  so 
pleasant,  and  even  instructive  to  talk  to  them. 

f  "  Shiel"  means  a  small  shooting -lodge. 


11 


Life  in  the  Iliglilands. 


176 


by  moonlight  at  about  half  past  six.  We  reached 
Castletoii  at  half  past  seven,  and  after  this  it  be- 
came cloudy.  At  a  quarter  past  eight  precisely 
we  were  at  Balmoral,  much  delighted  and  not  at 
all  tired,  every  thing  had  been  so  well  aiTanged, 
and  so  quietly,  without  any  fuss.  Never  shall  I 
forget  this  day,  or  the  impression  this  very  grand 
scene  made  upon  me — truly  sublime  and  impress- 
ive ;  such  solitude ! 


First  Great  Expedition — To  Glen  Fisiue  and 

GllANTOWN. 


J 


Hotel  Grantoivn, 
Tuesday,  Septemher  4, 1860. 
Arrived  this  evening  after  a  most  interesting 
tour ;  I  ^Y\\\  recount  the  events  of  the  day.  Break- 
fasted at  Balmoral  in  our  own  room  at  half  past 
seven  o'clock,  and  started  at  eight  or  a  little  past, 
with  Lady  Churchill  and  General  Grey,  in  the  so- 
ciable (Grant  and  Brown  on  the  box  as  usual),  for 
Castleton,  where  w^e  changed  horses.  We  went  on 
five  miles  beyond  the  Linn  of  Dee,  to  ihe  Shep- 
hercVs  Shiel  of  Geldie,  or,  properly  speaking,  6^m/72/, 
where  we  found  our  ponies  and  a  guide,  Charlie 


m<:>L 


^Ill 


176 


Life  In  the  Uighlands. 


Siewarfc.  We  mounted  at  once,  aii  1  rode  up 
along  the  Geldie,  wliicli  Ave  Lad  to  ford  frequently 
to  avoid  tlie  bogs,  and  rode  on  for  two  hours  up 
Glen  Geldiej  over  a  moor  which  was  so  soft  and 
boggy  in  places  that  we  had  to  get  off  several 
times.  The  hills  were  wild,  but  not  very  high, 
bare  of  trees,  and  even  of  heather  to  a  great  ex- 
tent, and  not  picturesque  till  we  approached  the 
F'tsliie,  and  turned  to  the  right  uj)  to  the  glen 
which  we  could  see  in  the  distance.  The  Fishie 
and  Geldie  rise  almost  on  a  level,  with  very  little 
distance  between  them.  ThoiFishie  is  a  fine  rapid 
stream,  full  of  stones.  As  you  approach  the  glen, 
which  is  very  narrow,  the  scenery  becomes  very 
fine,  particularly  after  fording  the  Mcliard^  a  very 
d'ep  ford.  Grant,  on  his  pony, led  me  through: 
our  men  took  off  their  shoes  and  stockings  to  get 
across.  From  this  point  the  narrow  path  winds 
along  the  base  of  the  hills  oi  Oraig-na-G()ar — the 
rocks  of  the  "Goat  Craig;"  Craig-na-Cailluclh ;  and 
Stron-na-Barin — "  the  nose  of  the  queen."  The 
rapid  river  is  overhung  by  rocks,  with  trees,  birch 
and  fir ;  the  hills,  as  you  advance,  rise  very  steeply 
on  both  sides,  with  rich  rocks  and  corries,  and  oc- 
casional streamlets  falling  from  very  high,  while 
the  path  winds  along,  rising  gradually  higher  and 
higher.     It  is  quite  magnificent ! 


i, 


VB\ 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


177 


We  stopped  when  we  came  to  a  level  spot 
among  the  trees.  The  native  firs  are  particularly- 
fine;  and  the  whole  is  grand  in  the  extreme.  We 
lunched  here — a  charming  spot — at  two  o'clock, 
and  then  pursued  our  journey.  We  walked  on  a 
little  way  to  where  the  valley  and  glen  widen  out, 
and  where  there  is  what  they  call  here  a  green 
"  hard."  We  got  on  our  ponies  again  and  crossed 
the  Fisliie  (a  stream  we  forded  many  times  in  the 
course  of  the  day)  to  a  place  where  the  finest  fir- 
trees  are,  amid  some  of  the  most  beautiful  scenery 
possible. 

Then  we  came  upon  a  most  lovely  spot — the 
scene  of  all  Landseer  s  glory — and  where  there  is 
a  little  encampment  of  wooden  and  turf  huts,  built 
by  the  late  Duchess  of  Bedford ;  now  no  longer 
belonging  to  the  family,  and,  alas !  all  falling  into 
decay — among  splendid  fir-trees,  the  mountains 
rising  abruptly  from  the  sides  of  the  valley.  We 
were  quite  enchanted  with  the  beauty  of  the 
view.  Tliis  place  is  about  seven  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Fisliie.  Emerging  from  the  wood, 
we  came  upon  a  good  road,  with  low  hills,  beau- 
tifully heather-colored,  to  the  left;  those  to  the 
right,  high  and  wooded,  with  noble  corries  and 
waterfalls. 

We  met  Lord  and  Lady  Alexander  Eussell  at 

H  2 


il 


1<  I 


m 


'M 


_  j 

iiw  It  <  M 


178 


Z^e  m  the  Highlands. 


a  small  farm-house  just  as  we  rode  out  of  tlie 
wood,  and  had  some  talk  with  them.  They  feel 
deeply  the  ruin  of  the  place  where  they  formerly 
lived,  as  it  no  longer  belongs  to  them.  We  rode 
on  for  a  good  long  distance,  12  miles,  till  we  came 
to  the  ferry  of  the  Spey.  Deer  were  being  driven 
in  the  woods,  and  we  heard  several  shots.  We 
saw  fine  ranges  of  hills  on  the  Spey-sidey  or  Stratli- 
spey,  and  opening  to  our  left  those  near  Loch 
Laggan,  We  came  to  a  wood  of  larch ;  from 
that  upon  cultivated  land,  with  Kinrara  toward 
our  right,  where  the  monument  to  the  late  Duke 
of  Gordon  is  conspicuously  seen  ou  a  hill,  which 
was  perfectly  crimson  with  heather. 

Before  entering  the  larch  wood,  Lord  Alexan- 
der Russell  caught  us  up  again  in  a  little  pony 
carriage,  having  to  go  the  same  way,  and  he  was 
so  good  as  to  explain  every  thing  to  us.  lie 
showed  us  "The  Duke  of  Argyll's  Stone" — a 
cairn  on  the  top  of  a  hill  to  our  right,  celebrated, 
as  seems  most  probable,  from  the  Marquis  of  Ar- 
gyll having  halted  there  with  his  army.  We 
camo  to  another  larch  wood,  when  I  and  Lady 
Churchill  got  off  our  ponies,  as  we  were  very  stiff 
from  riding  so  long ;  and  at  the  end  of  this  wood 
we  came  upon  Locli  Incli^  which  is  lovely,  and  of 
which  I  should  have  liked  exceedingly  to  have 


U 


\ 


Life  in  the  Ilighlands. 


179 


taken  a  sketch,  but  we  were  pressed  for  time  and 
Lurried.  The  light  was  lovely ;  and  some  cattle 
were  crossing  a  narrow  strip  of  grass  across  the 
end  of  the  loch  nearest  to  us,  wliich  really  made 
a  charming  picture.  It  is  not  a  wild  lake — quite 
tlie  contrary ;  no  high  rocks,  but  woods  and  blue 
hills  as  a  background.  About  a  mile  from  this 
was  the  ferry.  There  we  parted  from  our  ponies, 
only  Grant  and  Brown  coming  on  with  us.  Walk- 
er, the  police  inspector,  met  us,  1)  it  did  not  keep 
with  us.  He  had  been  sent  to  order  every  thing 
in  a  quiet  way,  without  letting  people  suspect 
who  we  were :  in  this  he  entirely  succeeded.  The 
ferry  was  a  very  rude  affair;  it  was  like  a  boat 


"•"- — _ 

.  .        .    -;-=■--. — issrvt—  .       -■  ,i^^^l-  -  -_-'bi- — -^ ;    '  —  V  — 

— .:;  v";:  J  " 

■■■■   _^-^'v— '-—-■-■- --"i-^--^ — :z     "     •'-    -  -^■^*-- 

" T_ •;.— 

-^^                  -     •^-j^.-A.      £^   '"^'^   ^  -"" 

"•^^^-,--.^- 

-:-;- ^iz:— : f^trVtk    JHmi  / frti Mfl M^ mBt 

-J-   ""— ^ 

1^                                         -..:.— 

■-^^--^-z     yfk^  'W&^^mmtlm^^ 

^C^-"=^  ,                            —■-''^,:i. 

^^Lm:-.r^:"                                            ,  -•'^"'.__ 

■bsSr.i 

^5«:,    -      -r     ~  ■!;«■»  |'^||lig|g||Jl^^ 

rrr^J-^^^^     * 

' — . L"t:—      ~-  -  ..      ~     •- "^^ .        --'''- 

nzs^tt".!^       -'^  .  ■■- 

or  cobble,  but  we  could  only  stand  on  it,  and  it 
was  moved  at  one  end  by  two  long  oars  plied  by 
the  ferryman  and  Brown,  and  at  the  other  end  by 
a  long  sort  of  beam,  Avhich  Grant  took  in  hand. 


»! 


I 


— -^--■»-- — 


1  ' 


f 


180 


Life  in  the  Hijldands. 


A  few  seconds  brought  us  over  to  the  road,  where 
there  were  two  shabby  vehicles,  one  a  kind  of 
barouche,  into  which  Albert  and  I  got.  Lady 
Churchill  and  General  Grey  into  the  other — a 
break ;  each  with  a  pair  of  small  and  rather  mis- 
erable horses,  driven  by  a  man  from  the  box. 
Grant  was  on  our  carriage,  and  BroAvn  on  the 
other.  We  had  gone  so  far  40  miles,  at  least 
20  on  horseback.  We  had  decided  to  call  oUi'- 
selves  Lord  and  Lady  Cliurcliill  and  party ^  Lady 
Churchill  passing  as  Miss  Spencer,  and  General 
Grey  as  Dr.  Grey  !  Brown  once  forgot  this,  and 
called  me  "Your  Majesty"  as  I  was  getting  into 
the  carriage;  and  Grant  on  the  box  once  called 
Albert  "  Your  Royal  Highness,"  which  set  us  off 
laughing,  but  no  one  observed  it. 

We  had  a  long  three  hours'  drive;  it  was  six 
o'clock  when  we  got  into  the  carriage.  We  were 
soon  out  of  the  wood,  and  came  upon  the  Bade- 
noclh  road,  passing  close  by  J^inrarct.,  but  unfortu- 
nately not  through  it,  which  we  ought  to  have 
done.  It  was  very  beautiful — fine  wooded  hills 
—  the  high  Cairngorin  range  and  Ben  Mnicli 
Dliui  unfortunately  much  obscured  by  the  mist 
on  the  top — and  the  broad  Spey  flowing  into  the 
valley,  with  cultivated  fields  and  fine  trees  below. 
Most  striking,  however,  on  our  whole  long  jour- 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


181 


ney,  was  the  utter,  and,  to  me,  very  refreshing  soli- 
tude. Hardly  a  habitation !  and  hardly  meeting 
a  soul !  It  gradually  grew  dark.  We  stopped 
at  a  small  half-way  house  for  the  horses  to  take 
some  water,  and  the  few  people  about  stared 
vacantly  at  the  two  simple  vehicles. 

The  mountains  gradually  disappeared  —  the 
evening  was  mild,  with  a  few  drops  of  rain.  On 
and  on  we  went,  till  at  length  we  saw  lights,  and 
drove  through  a  long  and  straggling  "  toun,"  and 
turned  down  a  small  court  to  the  door  of  the  inn. 
Here  we  got  out  quickly,  Lady  Churchill  and  Gen- 
eral Grey  not  waiting  for  us.  We  went  up  a  small 
staircase,  and  were  shown  to  our  bedroom  at  the 
top  of  it — very  small,  but  clean — with  a  large  four- 
post  bed  which  nearly  filled  the  whole  room.  Op- 
posite was  the  drawing  and  dining  room  in  one — 
very  tidy  and  well -sized.  Then  came  the  room 
where  Albert  dressed,  which  was  very  small.  The 
two  maids  (Jane  Shackle*  was  with  me)  had  driv- 
en over  by  another  road  in  the  wagonette,  Stewart 
driving  them.  Made  ourselves  "  clean  and  tidy," 
and  then  sat  down  to  our  dinner.  Grant  and 
Brown  were   to  have  waited   on  us,  but  were 


"  bashful,"  and  did  not.     A  ringleted  woman  did 

*  One  of  my  wardrobe  maids,  and  daughter  to  the  Pago 
mentioned  earlier.       ,  .  v  , 


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182 


Life  in  the  Highlands, 


every  thing ;  and,  when  dinner  was  over,  removed 
the  cloth  and  placed  the  bottle  of  wine  (our  own 
which  we  had  brought)  on  the  table  with  the 
glasses,  which  was  the  old  English  fashion.  The 
dinner  was  very  fair,  and  all  very  clean  —  soup, 
"hodge-podge,"  mutton -broth  with  vegetables, 
which  I  did  not  much  relish,  fowl  with  white 
sauce,  good  roast  lamb,  very  good  potatoes,  be- 
sides one  or  two  other  dishes,  which  I  did  not 
taste,  ending  with  a  good  tart  of  cranberries.  Aft- 
er dinner  I  tried  to  write  part  of  this  account  (but 
the  talking  round  me  confused  me),  while  Albert 
played  at  "  Patience ;"  then  went  away  to  begin 
undressing,  and  it  was  about  half  past  eleven 
when  we  got  to  bed. 


Wednesday,  Septemher  5. 
A  misty,  rainy  morning.  Had  not  slept  very 
soundly.  We  got  up  rather  early,  and  sat  work- 
ing and  reading  in  the  drawing-room  till  the 
breakfast  was  ready,  for  which  we  had  to  wait 
some  little  time.  Good  tea  and  bread  and  butter, 
and  some  excellent  porridge.  Jane  Shackle  (who 
was  very  useful  and  attentive)  said  that  they  had 
all  supped  together,  namely,  the  two  maids,  and 
Grant,  Brown,  Stewart,  and  Walker  (who  was  still 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


183 


there),  and  were  very  merry  in  tlie  "  commercial 
room."  The  people  were  very  amusing  about  us. 
The  woman  came  in  while  they  were  at  their 
dinner,  and  said  to  Grant,  "  Dr.  Grey  wants  you," 
which  nearly  upset  the  gravity  of  all  the  others : 
then  they  told  Jane,"  Your  lady  gives  no  trouble ;" 
and  Grant  in  the  morning  called  up  to  Jane, "  Does 
his  lordship  want  me?"  One  could  look  on  the 
street,  which  is  a  very  long,  wide  one,  with  de- 
tached houses,  from  our  window.  It  was  perfect- 
ly quiet ;  no  one  stirring  except  here  and  there  a 
man  driving  a  cart,  or  a  boy  going  along  on  his 
errand.  General  Grey  bought  himself  a  watch  in 
a  shop  for  £2  ! 

At  length,  at  about  ten  minutes  to  ten  o'clock, 
we  started  in  the  same  carriages  and  the  same 
way  as  yesterday,  and  drove  up  to  Castle  Grant, 
Lord  Seafield's  place — a  fine  (not  Highland-look- 
ing) park,  with  a  very  plain-looking  house,  like  a 
factory,  about  two  miles  from  the  town.  It  was 
drizzling  almost  the  whole  time.  We  did  not 
get  out,  but  drove  back,  having  to  pass  through 
Grantown  again,  where  evidently  "  the  murder  was 
out,"  for  all  the  people  were  in  the  street,  and  the 
landlady  waved  her  pocket-handkerchief,  and  the 
ringleted  maid  (who  had  curl-papers  in  the  morn- 
ing) waved  a  flag  from  the  window.     Our  coach- 


,;:■)! 


''1 

't 


M  ;«1 


1 


:  ■: 


iii 


1.   :. 

I: 

i 


184 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


man  evidently  did  not  observe  or  guess  any  thing. 
As  we  drove  out  of  the  town,  turning  to  our  I'ight 
through  a  wood,  we  met  many  people  coming  into 
the  town,  which  the  coachman  said  was  for  a  fu- 
neral. We  passed  over  the  Spey  by  the  Bridge  of 
Spey.  It  continued  provokingly  rainy,  the  mist 
hanging  veiy  low  on  the  hills,  which,  however,  did 
not  seem  to  be  very  high,  but  were  pink  with 
heather.  We  stopped  to  have  the  cover  of  leath- 
er put  over  our  carriage,  which  is  the  fashion  of 
all  the  flys  here.  It  keeps  out  the  rain,  however, 
very  well. 

The  first  striking  feature  in  this  country  is  the 
Pass  of  Dal  Dliu,  above  which  the  road  winds — 
a  steep  corrie,  with  gi'een  h^'lls.  We  stopped  at  a 
small  inn,  with  only  one  other  house  near  it ;  and 
here  the  poor  wretchedly-jaded  horses  got  a  little 
water,  and  waited  for  about  ten  minutes.  Far- 
ther on  we  came  to  a  very  steep  hill,  also  to  a  sort 
of  pass  called  Glen  Bruin.,  with  green  hills,  evi- 
dently of  slate  formation.  Here  we  got  out,  and 
walked  down  the  hill,  and  over  the  Bridge  of 
Bruin^  and  partly  up  another  hill,  the  road  wind- 
ing amazingly  after  this  up  and  down  hill.  We 
then  came  in  sight  of  the  Avon,  winding  below 
the  hills,  and  again  got  out  at  a  little  wood  before 
the  Bridge  of  Avon ;  the  river  is  fine  and  clear 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


185 


ar 


here.  We  re-entered  our  carriages  (Lady  Church- 
ill and  I  for  this  short  time  together),  and  drove 
about  a  mile  farther  up  a  hill  to  Tomantoid^  our 
poor  horses  being  hardly  able  to  drag  themselves 
any  longer,  the  man  whipping  them  and  whistling 
to  them  to  go  on,  which  they  could  not,  and  I 
thought  every  instant  that  they  would  stoj)  in  the 
village.  We  took  four  hours  to  drive  these  14 
miles ;  for  it  was  two  o'clock  when  we  were  out- 
side the  town,  and  got  oul  to  mount  our  ponies. 
Tomaiitoul  is  the  most  tumble-down,  poor-looking 
place  I  ever  saw — a  long  street  with  three  inns, 
miserable,  dirty-looking  houses  and  people,  and  a 
sad  look  of  wretchedness  about  it.  Grant  told 
me  that  it  was  the  dirtiest,  poorest  village  in  the 
whole  of  the  IligJdands. 

We  mounted  our  ponies  a  short  way  out  of  the 
town,  but  only  rode  for  a  few  minutes,  as  it  was 
past  two  o'clock.  We  came  upon  a  beautiful 
view,  looking  down  upon  the  Avon  and  up  a  line 
glen.  There  we  rested"  and  took  luncheon.  While 
Brown  was  unpacking  and  arranging  our  things, 
I  spoke  to  him  and  to  Grant,  who  was  helping, 
about  not  having  waited  on  us,  as  they  ought  to 
have  done,  at  dinner  last  night  and  at  breakfast, 
as  we  had  wished ;  and  Brown  answered  he  was 
afraid  he  should  not  do  it  rightly ;  I  replied  we 


j 


186 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


did  not  wisli  to  have  a  stranger  in  the  room,  and 
tliey  must  do  so  another  time. 

Luncheon  (provisions  of  which  we  had  taken 
with  us  from  home  yesterday)  finished,  we  started 
again,  walked  a  little  way  till  we  were  overtaken 
by  the  men  and  ponies,  and  then  rode  along  Avon- 
side,  the  road  winding  at  the  bottom  of  the  glen, 
which  is  in  part  tolerably  wide,  but  narrows  as  it 
turns,  and  winds  around  toward  Inchrory^  where 
it  is  called  Glen  Avon.  The  hills,  sloping  down 
to  the  river  side,  are  beautifully  green.  It  was 
very  muggy  —  quite  oppressive,  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  road  deep  and  sloppy,  till  we  came 
uj)on  the  granite  formation  again.  In  order  to 
get  on,  as  it  was  late,  and  we  had  eight  miles  to 
ride,  our  men — at  least  Brown  and  two  of  the 
others — walked  before  us  at  a  fearful  rate,  so  that 
we  had  to  trot  to  keep  up  at  all.  Grant  rode  fre- 
quently on  the  deer  pony;  the  others  seemed, 
however,  a  good  deal  tired  with  the  two  long 
days'  journey,  and  were  glad  to  get  on  Albert's  or 
the  General's  pony  to  give  themselves  a  lift; ;  but 
their  willingness,  readiness,  cheerfulness,  indefati- 
gableness,  are  very  admirable,  and  make  them  most 
delightful  servants.  -As  for  Grant  and  Brown, 
they  are  perfect — discreet,  careful,  intelligent,  at- 
tentive,  ever  ready  to  do  what  is  wanted ;  and  the 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


187 


latter,  particularly,  is  handy,  and  willing  to  do  ev- 
ery thing  and  any  thing,  and  to  overcome  every 
difficulty,  which  makes  him  one  of  my  best  serv- 
ants any  where. 

We  passed  by  Inchrory^  seeing,  as  we  approach- 
ed, two  eagles  towering  splendidly  above,  and 
alighting  on  the  top  of  the  hills.  From  Inclirory 
we  rode  to  Locli  Bulicj^  which  was  beautifully  lit 
up  by  the  setting  sun.  From  Tomantoul  we  es- 
caped all  real  rain,  having  only  a  slight  sprinkling 
every  now  and  then.  At  Locli  Bulig  we  found 
our  carriage  and  four  ponies,  and  drove  back  just 
as  we  left  yesterday  morning,  reaching  Balmoral 
safely  at  half  past  seven. 

What  a  delightful,  successful  expedition !  Dear 
Lady  Churchill  was,  as  usual,  tt  oroughly  amiable, 
cheerful,  and  ready  to  do  every  thing.  Both  she 
and  the  General  seemed  entirely  to  enjoy  it  and 
enter  into  it,  and  so  I  am  sure  did  our  people. 
To  my  dear  Albert  do  we  owe  it,  for  he  always 
thought  it  would  be  delightful,  having  gone  on 
many  similar  expeditions  in  former  days  himself 
He  enjoyed  it  very  much.  We  .heard  since  that 
the  secret  came  out  through  a  man  recognizing 
Albert  in  the  street  yesterday  morning ;  then  the 
crown  OTi  the  dog-cart  made  them  think  that  it 
was  some  one  from  Balmoral^  tho  ugh  they  never 


H 


188 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


suspected  that  it  could  be  ourselves !  "  The  lady 
must  be  terrible  rich,"  the  woman  observed,  as  I 
had  so  many  gold  rings  on  my  firgers !  I  told 
Lady  Churchill  she  had  on  many  more  than  I  had. 
When  they  heard  who  it  was,  they  were  ready  to 
drop  with  astonishment  and  fright.  I  fear  I  have 
but  poorly  recounted  this  very  amusing  and  nev- 
er to  be  forgotten  expedition,  which  will  always 
be  remembered  with  delight. 

I  must  pay  a  tribute  to  our  ponies.     Dear  "  Fy- 
vie"  is  perfection,  and  Albert's  ecpially  excellent. 


Second  Geeat  Expedition — To  Invermark 

AND   FeTTERCAIRN. 

Friday^  Se^temher  20, 1861. 
Looked  anxiously  at  the  weather  at  seven 
o'clock — ^there  had  been  a  little  rain,  there  was 
still  mist  on  the  hills,  and  it  looked  doubtfal. 
However,  Albert  said  it  would  be  best  to  keep  to 
the  original  arrangements,  and  so  we  got  up  early, 
and  by  eight  the  sun  shone,  and  the  mist  began 
to  lift  every  where.  We  breakfasted  at  half  past 
eight,  and  at  half  past  nine  we  started  in  two  so- 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


189 


ciables — Alice  and  Louis*  with  us  in  the  first,  and 
Grant  on  the  box;  Lady  Churchill  and  General 
Grey  in  the  second,  and  Brown  on  the  box.  We 
drove  to  the  Bridge  of  Miticli^  where  w^e  found 
our  six  ponies  and  five  gillies  (J.  Smith,  J.  Mor- 
gan, Kennedy,  C.  Stewart,  and  S.  Campbell),  We 
rode  up  the  peat-road  over  the  hill  of  Polacli  and 
down  it  again  for  about  four  miles,  and  then  came 
to  a  very  soft  bit ;  but  still,  with  careful  manage- 
ment, we  avoided  getting  into  any  of  the  bogs, 
and  I  remained  on  my  pony  all  the  time.  Albert 
and  Louis  had  to  get  off  and  walk  for  about  two 
hundred  yards.  The  hills  of  Locli-na-Gar  were 
very  hazy,  but  Mount  Keen  was  in  great  beauty 
before  us,  and  as  we  came  dov\Ti  to  the  Glen  of 
Corrie  Vruacli,  and  looked  down  Glen  Tanar,  the 
scenery  was  grand  and  wild.  Mount  Keen  is  a 
curious  conical-shaped  hill,  with  a  deep  corrie  in 
it.  It  is  nearly  3200  feet  high,  and  we  had  a  very 
steep,  rough  ascent  over  the  shoulder,  after  cross- 
ing the  Tanar  Water.  It  was  six  and  a  half  miles 
from  the  Bridge  of  Muicli  to  Corrie  Yruacli, 

When  we  were  on  the  level  ground  again,  where 
it  was  hard  and  dry,  we  all  got  off  and  walked  on 
over  the  shoulder  of  the  hill.  We  had  not  gone 
far  when  we  descried  Lord  Dalhousie  (whom  Gen- 

*  Prince  Louis  of  Hesse. 


"I! 


190 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


! 


eral  Grey  had  in  confidence  informed  of  our  com- 
ing) on  a  pony.  He  welcomed  us  on  the  border 
of  his  "  March,"  got  off  his  pony  and  walked  with 
us.  After  walking  some  little  time  Alice  and  I 
remounted  our  ponies  (Albert  riding  some  part 
of  the  time)  and  turned  to  the  left,  when  we  came 
in  sight  of  a  new  country,  and  looked  down  a  very 
fine  glen — Glen  Marh.  We  descended  by  a  very 
steep  but  winding  j)ath,  called  The  La  lde)\  very 
grand  and  wild :  the  water  running  through  it  is 
called  The  Ladder  Burn.  It  is  very  fine  indeed, 
and  very  striking.  There  is  a  small  forester's 
lodge  at  the  very  foot  of  it.  The  pass  is  quite  a 
narrow  one;  you  wind  along  a  very  steep  and 
rough  path,  but  still  it  was  quite  easy  to  ride  on 
it,  as  it  zigzags  along.  We  crossed  the  burn  at 
the  bottom,  where  a  picturesque  group  of "  shear- 
ers" were  seated,  chiefly  women,  the  older  ones 
smoking.  They  were  returning  from  the  south  to 
the  north,  whence  they  came.  We  rode  up  to  the 
little  cottage,  and  in  a  little  room  of  a  regular 
Highland  cabin,  with  its  usual  "  press  bed,"  we 
had  luncheon.  This  place  is  called  Lnvermar\ 
and  is  four  and  a  half  miles  from  Carrie  Yruach. 
After  luncheon  I  sketched  the  fine  view.  The 
steep  hill  we  came  down  immediately  opposite  the 
keeper's  lodge  is  called  Craig  Loestoch,  and  a  very 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


191 


fine  isolated  craggy  hill  which  rises  to  the  left, 
overtopping  a  small  and  wild  glen,  is  called  the 
Hill  of  Doun, 

We  mounted  our  ponies  a  little  after  three,  and 
rode  down  Glen  Marh^  stopping  to  diink  some 
water  out  of  a  very  pure  well,  called  The  White 
Wellj  and  crossing  the  Mark  several  times.  As 
we  approached  the  Manse  of  Lodi  Lee,  the  glen 
widened,  and  the  old  Castle  of  Invermarh  came 
out  extremely  well,  and,  surrounded  by  woods  and 
corn-fields, in  which  the  people  were  "shearing," 
looked  most  picturesque.  We  turned  to  the  right, 
and  rode  up  to  the  old  iniined  castle,  which  is  half 
covered  with  ivy.  We  then  rode  up  to  Lord  Dal- 
housie's  shooting-lodge,  where  we  dismounted.  It 
is  a  new  and  veiy  pretty  house,  built  of  granite, 
in  a  very  fine  position  overlooking  the  glen,  with 
wild  hills  at  the  back  Miss  Maule  (now  Lady 
C.  Maule)  was  there.  We  passed  through  the 
drawing-room,  and  went  on  a  few  yards  to  the 
end  of  a  walk  whence  you  see  Loch  Lee,  a  wild 
but  not  large  lake  closed  in  by  mountains,  with  a 
farm-house  and  a  few  cottages  at  its  edge.  The 
hall  and  dining-room  are  very  prettily  fitted  up 
with  trophies  of  sport,  and  the  walls  paneled  wdth 
light  wood.  We  had  a  few  of  the  very  short 
showers  which  hung  about  the  hills.     We  then 


\P: 


ti- ' 


i 


192 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


got  into  our  carriages.  The  carriage  we  were  in 
was  a  sort  of  double  dog-cart  which  could  carry 
eight,  but  was  very  narrow  inside.  We  drove 
along  the  glen — down  by  the  JSforthesk  (the  Etj 
and  Marh  meeting  become  the  N^orthesJc)^  passing 
to  the  right  another  very  pretty  glen  —  Glen 
Effacli^  much  wooded,  and  the  whole  landscape 
beautifully  lit  up.  Before  us  all  was  light  and 
bright,  and  behind  the  mist  and  rain  seemed  to 
come  down  heavily  over  the  mountains. 

Farther  on  we  passed  Poul  ^Iceinnie  Bridge 
and  Tarf  Bridge^  both  regular  steep  Highland 
bridges.  To  the  right  of  the  latter  there  is  a  new 
Free  Kirk — farther  on  Captain  TVemyss's  Tietrea% 
a  sti'ange-looking  place — to  the  left,  Mill  Bane — 
and,  on  a  small  eminence,  the  Castle  of  Audi  Mill, 
which  now  resembles  an  old  farm-house,  but  has 
traces  of  a  teiTace  garden  remaining.  The  hills 
round  it  and  near  the  road  to  the  left  w^ere  like 
small  mounds.  A  little  farther  on  again  we  came 
to  a  wood,  where  we  got  out  and  walked  along 
Major  McBiro'ifs  Burn.  The  path  winds  along 
through  the  wood  just  above  this  most  curious 
narrow  gorge,  which  is  unlike  any  of  the  other 
lynns ;  the  rocks  are  very  peculiar,  and  the  burn 
very  narrow,  with  deep  pools  comj^letely  overhung 
by  wood.    It  extends  some  way.    The  woods  and 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


193 


and 


ground'^  might  be  in  Wales,  or  even  in  Ilawthotm- 
den.  We  walked  through  the  wood  and  a  little 
way  along  the  road  till  the  carriages  overtook  us. 
We  had  three  miles  farther  to  drive  to  Fettercai7'7i, 
in  all  40  miles  from  Balmoral.  We  came  upon  a 
flat  country,  evidently  much  cultivated,  but  it  was 
too  dark  to  see  any  thing. 

At  a  quarter  past  seven  o'clock  we  reached  the 
small  quiet  town,  or  rather  village,  of  Fettercairn, 
for  it  was  very  small — not  a  creature  stimng,  and 
we  got  out  at  the  quiet  little  inn, "  Ramsay  Anns," 
quite  unobserved,  and  went  at  once  up  stairs. 
There  was  a  very  nice  drawing-room,  and  next  to 
it  a  dining-room,  both  very  clean  and  tidy ;  then 
to  the  left  our  bedroom,  which  was  excessively 
small,  but  also  very  clean  and  neat,  and  much 
better  furnished  than  at  Grantown.  Alice  had 
a  nice  room  the  same  size  as  ours;  then  came  a 
mere  morsel  of  one  (with  a  "press  bed"),  in  which 
Albert  dressed ;  and  then  came  Lady  Churchill's 
bedroom  just  beyond.  Louis  and  General  Grey 
had  rooms  in  a  hotel  called  "The  Temperance 
Hotel,"  opposite.  We  dined  at  eight  —  a  very 
nice,  clean,  good  dinner.  Graut  and  Brown  wait- 
ed. They  were  rather  nervous,  but  General  Grey 
and  Lady  Churchill  carved,  and  they  had  only  to 
change  the  plates,  which  Brown  soon  got  into  the 


194 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


W 


i   ! 


way  of  doing.  A  little  girl  of  the  house  came  in 
to  help,  but  Grant  turned  her  round  to  prevent 
her  looking  at  us !  The  landlord  and  landlady 
knew  who  we  were,  but  710  one  else  except  the 
coachman,  and  they  kej^t  the  secret  admirably. 

The  evening  being  bright  and  moonlight,  and 
very  still,  we  all  went  out,  and  walked  through 
the  whole  village,  a\  here  not  a  creature  moved — 
through  the  principal  little  square,  in  the  middle 
of  which  was  a  sort  of  pillar  or  Town  Cross  on 
steps,  and  Louis  read,  by  the  light  of  the  moon, 
a  proclamation  for  collections  of  charities  which 
was  stuck  on  it.  We  walked  on  along  a  lane  a 
short  way,  hearing  nothing  whatever — not  a  leaf 
moving — but  the  distant  barking  of  a  dog  !  Sud- 
denly we  heard  a  drum  and  fif  3S !  We  were 
greatly  alarmed,  fearing  we  had  been  recognized ; 
but  Louis  and  General  Grey,  who  went  back,  saw 
nothing  whatever.  Still,  as  we  walked  slowly 
back,  we  heard  the  noise  from  time  to  time,  and 
when  we  reached  the  inn  door  we  stopped,  and 
saw  six  men  march  up  with  fifes  and  a  drum  (not 
a  creature  taking  any  notice  of  them),  go  down 
the  street,  and  back  again.  Grant  and  Brown 
were  out,  but  had  no  idea  what  it  could  be.  Al 
bert  asked  the  little  maid,  and  the  answer  was, 
'•  It's  just  a  band,"  and  that  it  walkc  1  about  in 


I  i 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


195 


this  way  twice  a  week.  How  odd !  It  went  on 
playing  some  time  after  we  got  home.  We  sat 
till  half  past  ten  working  and  Albert  reading, 
and  then  retired  to  rest. 


Saturday^  September  21. 

Got  to  sleep  after  two  or  three  o'clock.  The 
morning  was  dull  and  close,  and  misty,  with  a  lit- 
tle rain ;  hardly  any  one  stirring ;  but  a  few  peo- 
ple at  their  work.  A  traveler  had  arrived  at 
night,  and  wanted  to  come  up  into  the  dining- 
room,  which  i 3  the  "  commercial  travelers'  room," 
and  ley  had  difficulty  in  telling  him  he  could 
not  stop  there.  He  joined  Grant  and  Brown  at 
their  tea,  and  on  his  asking  "  What's  the  matter 
here  f  Grant  answered,  "  It's  a  wedding  party 
from  Aherdeenr  At  "  The  Temperance  Hotel" 
they  were  very  anxious  to  know  whom  they  had 
got.  All,  except  General  Grey,  breakfasted  a  lit- 
tle before  nine.  Brown  acted  as  my  servant, 
brushing  my  skirt  and  boots,  and  taking  any  mes- 
sage, and  Grant  as  Albert's  valet. 

At  a  quarter  to  ten  we  started  the  same  way  as 
before,  except  that  we  were  in  the  carriage  which 
Lady  Churchill  and  the  General  had  yesterday. 
It  was  unfortunately  misty,  and  we  could  see  no 


■  i 


!|i 


M: 


ir: 


;,,t 


fit, 


mi 


^ 


196 


Life  in  the  Highlands, 


distance.  Tlie  people  had  just  discovered  who  we 
were,  and  a  few  cheered  us  as  we  went  along. 
We  passed  close  to  Fettercairn^  Sir  J.  Forbes's 
house ;  then,  farther  on  to  the  left,  Fasqiie,  be- 
longing to  Sir  T.  Gladstone,  Who  has  evidently 
done  a  great  deal  for  the  country,  having  built 
many  good  cottages.  We  then  came  to  a  very 
long  hiU,  at  least  four  miles  in  length,  called  the 
Cawnie  Month^  whence  there  is  a  very  fine  view, 
but  which  was  entirely  obscured  by  a  heavy  driv- 
ing mist.  We  walked  up  part  of  it,  and  then  for 
a  little  while  Alice  and  I  sat  alone  in  the  carriage. 
We  next  came  to  the  Spittal  JBridge,  a  curious 
high  bridge,  with  the  Dye  Water  to  the  left,  and 
the  Spittal  Burn  to  tLe  right.  Sir  T.  Gladstone's 
shooting-place  is  close  to  tl^ie.  Bridge  of  Dye,  where 
we  changed  carriages'  again,  re-entering  the  double 
dog-cart — Albert  and  I  inside,  and  Louis  sitting 
behind.  We  went  up  a  hill  again  and  ^scw  Mount 
Battock  to  the  noi-thwest,  close  to  Sir  T.  Glad- 
stone's shooting -lodge.  You  then  come  to  an 
open  country,  with  an  extensive  view  toward  Ab- 
erdeen, and  to  a  very  deep,  rough  ford,  where  you 
pass  the  Feugli  at  a  place  called  White  Stones.  It 
is  very  pretty,  and  a  fine  glen  with  wood.  About 
two  miles  farther  to  the  northwest,  on  the  left,  is 
Fi/nzean  ;  and  a  little  beyond  is  "  King  Durdun's 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


197 


Stone,"  as  they  call  it,  by  the  roadside — a  large, 
heavy,  ancient  stone,  the  history  of  which,  how- 
ever, we  have  not  yet  discovered.  Then  we  passed 
Mary's  Well,  to  the  left  of  which  is  Ballogie 
House,  a  fine  property  belonging  to  Mr.  Dyce 
Nicole  The  harvest  and  every  thing  seemed  pros- 
perous, and  the  countiy  was  very  pretty.  We  got 
out  at  a  very  small  village  (where  the  horses  had 
some  water,  for  it  was  a  terribly  long  stage),  and 
walked  a  little  way  along  the  road.  Alice,  Lady 
Churchill,  and  I  went  into  the  house  of  a  tailor, 
which  was  very  tidy,  and  the  woman  in  it  most 
friendly,  asking  us  to  rest  there,  but  not  dreaming 
who  we  were. 

We  drove  on  again,  watching  ominous-looking 
clouds,  which,  however,  cleared  off  afterward.  We 
saw  the  woods  of  Lord  Huntly's  forest,  and  the 
hills  which  one  sees  from  the  road  to  Ahoyne. 
Instead  of  going  on  to  Ahoyne  we  turned  to  the 
left,  leaving  the  B  ndge  of  Ahoyne  (which  we  had 
not  seen  before)  to  the  right.  A  little  beyond 
this,  out  of  sight  of  all  habitations,  we  found  the 
postmaster,  with  another  carriage  for  us.  This 
was  22  miles  from  Fettercairn.  We  crossed  the 
Tanar  Water,  and  drove  to  the  ]eft  up  Glen  Tanar 
— a  really  beautiful  and  richly-wooded  glen,  be- 
tween high  hills — part  of  Lord  Huntly's  forest. 


t*;' 


I;  I 

1 


V 


198 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


We  drove  on  about  six  miles,  and  then  stopped, 
as  it  was  past  two,  to  get  our  luncheon.  The  day 
kept  quite  fair  in  spite  of  threatening  clouds  and 
gatheiing  mist.  The  spot  where  we  lunched  was 
very  pretty.  This  over,  we  walked  on  a  little, 
and  then  got  into  the  carriages  again,  and  drove 
to  the  end  of  the  glen — out  of  the  trees  to  Mtt- 
nocJi,  on  to  a  keeper's  house  in  the  glen — a  very 
lonely  place,  where  our  ponies  were.  It  was 
about  four  when  we  arrived.  A  wretched  idiot 
girl  was  here  by  herself,  as  tall  as  Lady  Churchill, 
but  a  good  deal  bent,  and  dressed  like  a  child, 
with  a  pinafore  and  short-cut  hair.  She  sat  on 
the  ground  with  her  hands  round  her  knees,  rock- 
ing herself  to  and  fro,  and  laughing ;  she  then  got 
up  and  walked  toward  us.  General  Grey  put 
himself  before  me,  and  she  went  up  to  him,  and 
began  taking  hold  of  his  coat,  and  putting  her 
hand  into  his  pockets,  which  set  us  all  off  laugh- 
ing, sad  as  it  was.  An  old  man  walked  up  hasti- 
ly soon  after,  and  on  Lady  Churchill  asking  him 
if  he  knew  that  poor  girl,  he  said,  "Yes,  she  be- 
longs to  me ;  she  has  a  weakness  in  her  mind ;" 
and  led  her  off  hurriedly. 

We  walked  on  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  then 
mounted  our  ponies  a  little  higher  up,  and  then 
proceeded  across  the  other  shoulder  of  the  hill 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


199 


we  had  come  down  yesterday — crossed  the  boggy 
part,  and  came  over  the  Polach  just  as  in  going. 
The  mist  on  the  distant  hills,  Mcnmt  Keen^  etc., 
made  it  feel  chilly.  Coming  down  the  peat  road* 
to  the  Bridge  of  Muicli,  the  view  of  the  valleys 
of  Muich^  Gairrij  and  Ballater  was  beautiful.  As 
we  went  along  I  talked  frequently  with  good 
Grant. 

We  found  my  dearest  mother's  sociable,  a  fine 
large  one,  which  she  has  left  to  Albert,  waiting 
to  take  us  back.  It  made  me  very  sad,  and  filled 
my  eyes  with  tears.  Oh,  in  the  midst  of  cheer- 
fulness, I  feel  so  sad  !  But  being  out  a  great  deal 
here,  and  seeing  new  and  fine  scenery,  does  me 
good. 

We  got  back  to  Bahnoral,  much  pleased  with 
our  expedition,  at  seven  o'clock.  We  had  gone 
4  J  miles  to-day,  and  40  yesterday — in  all,  82. 

*  Grant  told  me  in  May,  1862,  that  when  the  Prince  stop- 
ped behind  with  him,  looking  at  the  Choils  which  he  intend- 
ed as  a  deer-forest  for  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  giving  his 
directions  as  to  the  planting  in  Glen  Muich,  he  said  to 
Grant,  "You  and  I  may  be  dead  and  gone  before  that." 
In  less  than  three  months,  alas !  his  words  were  verified  as 
regards  himself  I  He  was  ever  cheerful,  but  ever  ready  and 
prepared. 


3 


m 


I  1 


i     ^ 


i   i; 


200  I4fe  in  the  Highlajids. 


Expedition  to  Loch  Avon. 

Saturday^  September  28, 1861. 

Looked  out  very  anxiously.  A  doubtful  morn- 
ing; still  gleams  of  sunshine  burst  through  the 
mist,  and  it  seemed  improving  all  round.  We 
breakfasted  at  a  quarter  to  eight,  with  Alice  and 
Louis,  in  our  sitting-room,  and  started  at  half  past 
eight ;  Louis  and  Alice  with  us,  Grant  and  Bro^vn 
on  the  box,  as  usual.  The  morning  greatly  im- 
proved.   - 

We  drove  along  the  north  side  of  the  river,  the 
day  clearing  very  much,  and  becoming  really  fine. 
We  took  post-horses  at  Castleton^  and  drove  up  to 
the  Derry  (the  road  up  Glen  I/aie  very  bad  in- 
deed) ;  and  here  we  mounted  our  ponies,  and 
proceeded  the  usual  way  up  Glen  Derry,  as  far 
as  where  the  path  turns  up  to  Loch  Mchan.  In- 
stead of  going  that  way,  we  proceeded  straight 
on — a  dreadfully  rough,  stony  road,  though  not 
steep,  but  rougher  than  any  thing  we  ever  rode 
upon  before,  and  terrible  for  the  poor  horses'  feet. 
We  passed  by  two  little  lakes  called  the  Dlioolo- 
charts,  opposite  to  where  the  glen  runs  down  to 
Inchrory,  and  after  crossing  them  there  was  a 
short  boggy  bit,  where  I  got  off  and  walked  some 


Life  in  the  Highlands, 


201 


way  on  the  opposite  side,  along  the  "brae"  of  the 
hill,  on  the  other  side  of  which  th  e  loch  lies,  and 
then  got  on  again.  It  was  i3o  saturated  with  wa- 
ter that  the  moss,  and  grass,  and  every  thing  were 
soaked ;  not  very  pleasant  riding,  particularly  as 
it  was  along  the  slope  of  the  hill.  We  went  on 
and  on,  nearly  two  miles  from  the  foot  of  this  hill, 
expecting  to  see  the  loch,  but  another  low  hill  hid 
it  from  us,  till  at  length  we  came  in  sight  of  it, 
and  nothing  could  be  grander  and  wilder — the 
rocks  are  so  grand  and  precipitous,  and  the  snow 
on  Ben  Muich  Dliui  had  such  a  fine  effect. 

We  saw  the  spot  at  the  foot  oiLocli  Etclian  to 
which  we  scrambled  last  year,  and  looked  down 
upon  Loch  Avon.  It  was  very  cold  and  wdndy. 
At  length,  at  a  quarter  past  two,  we  sat  down  be- 
hind a  large  stone,  a  little  above  the  loch  (unfor- 
tunately, we  could  not  go  to  the  extreme  end, 
where  the  water  rushes  into  it).  We  lunched  as 
quickly  as  we  could,  and  then  began  walking  back, 
and  crossed  the  hill  higher  up  than  in  coming.  I 
walked  for  some  time,  but  it  was  not  easy,  from 
the  great  wet  and  the  very  uneven  ground.  Good 
Louis  helped  me  often ;  Albert  and  Alice  running 
along  without  assistance.  Remounted  my  pony^, 
which,  as  well  as  Albert's,  went  beautifully,  care- 
fully led  by  that  most  attentive  of  servants.  Brown. 

12 


ir 


u 

r- 


i  ' 


i  fill 


ffi 


202 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


I  had  again  to  get  off  before  we  crossed  by  the 
Dhoolochans,  but  after  that  we  rode  back  the 
whole  way. 

We  had  the  same  guide,  Charlie  Stewart,  who 
took  us  to  Glen  Fisliie  last  year,  and  who  walks 
wonderfully.  We  had  two  slight  showers  going 
down,  and  saw  that  there  had  been  much  more 
rain  below.  We  found  the  Ford  of  tlie  Derry 
very  deep,  nearly  up  to  the  ponies'  girths;  and 
the  roughness  and  stoniness  of  the  road  is  beyond 
every  thing,  but  the  ponies  picked  their  way  like 
cats.  We  were  down  at  the  Derry  by  nearly  six 
o'clock,  the  distance  to  Loch  Avon  being  ten 
miles.  Found  our  carriage  there :  it  was  already 
getting  darkish,  but.  still  it  was  quite  light  enough 
to  enable  the  postboys  to  see  their  way. 

At  the  bridge  at  Mar  Lodge  Brovm  lit  the 
lanterns.  We  gave  him  and  Grant  our  plaids  to 
put  on,  as  we  always  do  when  they  have  walked 
a  long  way  with  us  and  drive  afterward.  We 
took  our  own  horses  at  Castleton,  and  reached 
Balmoral  at  ten  minutes  past  eight,  much  pleased 
with  the  success  of  our  expedition,  and  really  not 
tired.     We  dined  enfamille. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


203 


Third  Great  Expedition — To  Glen  Fisiiie, 
Dalwhinnie,  and  Blair  Atiiole. 

Tuesday^  October  8, 18G1. 

The  morning  was  dull  and  rather  overcast; 
however,  we  decided  t'^  go.  General  Grey  had 
gone  on  before.  We  three  ladies  drove  in  the 
sociable;  Albert  and  Louis  in  a  carriage  from 
Castleton.  The  clouds  looked  heavy  and  dark, 
though  not  like  mist  hanging  on  the  mountains. 
Down  came  a  heavy  shower ;  but  before  we  reach- 
ed Castleton  it  cleared;  blue  sky  appeared;  and, 
as  there  was  much  wind,  Grant  thought  all  would 
be  well,  and  the  flay  very  fine.  Changed  horses 
at  Castleton^  and  drove  beyond  the  Linn  of  Dee 
to  the  Giuly  or  Geldie  Water — just  where  last 
year  we  mounted  our  ponies,  18  miles  from  Bal- 
moral. Here  we  found  our  ponies — "Inchrory" 
for  me,  and  a  new  pony  for  Alice  —  a  tall  gray 
one,  ugly,  but  safe.  The  others  rode  their  usual 
ones.  The  same  guide,  Charlie  Stewart,  was  there, 
and  a  pony  for  the  luncheon  panniers,  and  a  spare 
one  for  Grant  and  others  to  ride  in  turn. 

We  started  about  ten  minutes  past  eleven,  and 
proceeded  exactly  as  last  year,  fording  the  Geldie 
at  first  very  frequently.     The  ground  was  wet,  but 


't  f 


H  « 


(     ! 


rf' 


1:41 


J! 


I 


204 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


•   «!      if. 


I     € 


not  worse  than  last  year.  We  had  gone  on  very 
well  for  about  an  hour,  when  the  mist  thicliened 
all  round,  and  down  came  heavy,  or  at  least  beat- 
ing rain,  with  wind.  With  the  help  of  an  umbrel- 
la, and  waterproofs  and  a  plaid,  I  kept  quite  dry. 
Dearest  Albert,  who  walked  from  the  tima  the 
ground  became  boggy,  got  very  wet,  but  was  none 
the  worse  for  it,  and  we  got  through  it  much  better 
than  before,  we  ladies  never  having  to  get  off  our 
ponies.  At  length,  at  two  o'clock,  just  a««  we  were 
entering  that  beautiful  Glen  FisMe,  which  at  its 
commencement  reminds  one  of  Mclnroy's  Burn, 
it  cleared,  and  became  quite  fine  and  very  mild. 
Brown  waded  through  the  Etchard  leading  my 
pony,  and  then  two  of  the  others,  who  were  riding 
together  on  another  pony,  dropped  the  whole  bun- 
dle of  cloaks  into  the  water ! 

The  falls  of  the  Stron-na-Barin,  with  that  nar- 
row, steep  glen  which  you  ride  up,  crossing  at  the 
bottom,  were  in  great  beauty.  We  stopped  be- 
fore we  entered  the  wood,  and  lunched  on  the 
bank  overhanging  the  river,  where  General  Grey 
joined  us,  and  gave  us  an  account  of  his  arrange- 
ments. We  lunched  rather  hurriedly;  remount- 
ed our  ponies  and  rode  a  short  way,  till  we  came 
near  to  a  very  steep  place,  not  very  pleasant  to 
ride.    So  fine !  numberless  little  burns  running 


Ldfe  in  the  Highlands. 


205 


down  in  cascades.  We  walked  a  short  way,  and 
then  remounted  our  ponies ;  but,  as  we  were  to 
keep  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  not  by  the  In- 
vereshie  huts,  wie  had  to  get  off  for  a  few  hundi'ed 
yards,  the  path  being  so  narrow  as  to  make  it  ut- 
terly unsafe  to  ride.  Alice's  pony  already  began 
to  slip.  The  huts,  surrounded  by  magnificent  fir- 
trees,  and  by  quantities  of  juniper-bushes,  looked 
lovelier  than  ever,  and  we  gazed  with  sorrow  at 
their  utter  ruin.  I  felt  what  a  delightful  little 
encampment  it  must  have  been,  and  how  enchant- 
ing to  live  in  such  a  spot  as  this  beautiful  solitary 
wood,  in  a  glen  surrounded  by  the  high  hills.  We 
got  off,  and  went  into  one  of  the  huts  to  look  at  a 
fresco  of  stags  of  Landseer's,  over  a  chimney-piece. 
Grant,  on  a  pony,  led  me  through  the  Fishie  (all 
the  fords  are  deep)  at  the  foot  of  the  farm-houses, 
where  we  met  Lord  and  Lady  Alexander  Eussell 
last  year,  and  where  we  this  time  found  two  car- 
riages. We  dismounted  and  entered  them,  and 
were  off  at  ^yq  o'clock — we  were  to  have  started 
at  four. 

We  four  drove  together  by  the  same  way  as  we 
rode  last  year  (and  nothing  could  be  rougher  for 
driving)  quite  to  the  second  wood,  which  led  us 
past  Locli  Inch  ;  but  we  turned  short  of  the  loch 
to  the  left  along  the  high  road.     Unfortunately, 


rm. 


i  i  lit' 


i 


i 


4; 


ill 


'.      '5 


206 


Llfii  in  the  Hu^' lands. 


by  this  time  it  was  nearly  dark,  and  we  therefore 
lost  a  great  deal  of  the  fine  scenery.  We  had  rid- 
den 15  miles.  We  drove  along  the  road  over  sev- 
eral bridges — the  Bridije  of  CarVy  close  below  the 
ruined  Castle  of  Jlutlwen,  which  we  could  just  de- 
scry in  the  dus/: — and  on  a  long  wooden  bridge 
over  the  Spey  to  an  inn  at  Kingussie^  a  very  strag- 
gling place  with  very  few  cottages.  Already,  be- 
fore we  arrived  there,  we  were  struck  by  people 
standing  at  their  cottage  doors,  and  evidently 
looking  out,  which  made  us  believe  we  were  ex- 
pected. At  Kingussie  there  was  a  small,  curious, 
chattering  crowd  of  people,  who,  however,  did  not 
really  make  us  out,  but  evidently  suspected  who 
we  were.  Grant  and  Brown  kept  them  off  the 
carriages,  and  gave  them  evasive  answers,  direct- 
ing them  to  the  wrong  carriage,  which  was  most 
amusing.  One  old  gentleman,  with  a  high  wide- 
awake, was  especially  inquisitive. 

We  started  again,  and  went  on  and  on,  passing 
through  the  village  oi  Newton  of  Benchai\  where 
the  footm'  n  McDonald*  comes  from.  Here  the 
8]pey  is  crossed  at  its  junction  with  the  Truim, 
and  then  the  road  ascends  for  ten  miles  more  to 

*  He  died  at  Abergeldie  last  year  of  consumption ;  and 
his  widow,  an  excellent  person,  daughter  of  Mitchell,  the 
hlacksmith  at  Balmoral,  is  now  my  wardrobe  maid. 


f   f? 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


207 


Dahohinnie.  It  hecame  cold  and  windy,  with  oc- 
casional rain.  At  length,  and  not  till  a  quarter  to 
nine,  we  reached  the  inn  of  Dalwhimiie^  29  miles 
from  where  we  had  left  our  ponies,  which  stands 
by  itself,  away  from  any  village.  Here,  again, 
there  were  a  few  people  assembled,  and  I  thought 
they  knew  us ;  but  it  seems  they  did  not,  and  it 
was  only  when  we  arrived  that  one  of  the  maids 
recognized  me.  She  had  seen  me  at  Aberdeen  and 
Edlnhurg.  We  went  up  stairs :  the  inn  was  much 
larger  than  at  Fettercaivn^  but  not  nearly  so  nice 
and  cheei^ful;  there  was  a  drawing-room  and  a 
dining-room ;  and  we  had  a  very  good-sized  bed 
room.  Albert  h^d  a  dressing-room  of  equal  size 
Mary  Andrews*  (who  was  very  useful  and  effi 
cient)  and  Lady  Churchill's  maid  had  a  room  to 
gether,  every  one  being  in  the  house ;  but,  unfor- 
tunately, there  was  hardly  any  thing  to  eat,  and 
there  was  only  tea,  and  two  miserable  starved 
Highland  chickens,  without  any  potatoes!  No 
pudding,  and  no  fun ;  no  little  maid  (the  two 
there  not  wishing  to  come  in),  nor  our  two  people 
— who  were  wet,  and  drying  our  and  their  things 
— to  wait  on  us !     It  was  not  a  nice  supper ;  and 

*  One  of  my  wardrobe  maids — now  dresser  to  Princess 
Helena  (Princess  Christian).  Her  father  was  thirty-eight 
years  with  my  dear  uncle  the  King  of  the  Belgians. 


I-  : 


I        *•, 


I 


Ml 


i  A 


208  Life  in  the  Highlands. 

tlie  evening  was  wet.  As  it  was  late  we  soon  re- 
tired to  rest.  Maiy  and  Maxted  (Lady  Cbiirch- 
ill's  maid)  had  been  dining  below  witli  Grant, 
Brown,  and  Stewart  (who  came,  the  same  as  last 
time,  with  the  maids)  in  the  "  commercial  room" 
at  the  foot  of  the  stairs.  They  had  only  the  rem- 
nants of  our  two  starved  chickens ! 


Wednesday,  Octoher  ^. 

A  bright  morning,  whicli  was  very  charming. 
Albert  found,  on  getting  up,  that  Cluny  Mac- 
pherson,  with  his  piper  and  two  ladies,  had  ar- 
rived quite  early  in  the  morning ;  and,  while  we 
were  dressing,  we  heard  a  drum  and  fife,  and  dis- 
covered that  the  newly-formed  volunteers  had  ar- 
rived, all  indicating  that  we  were  discovered. 
However,  there  was  scarcely  any  population,  and 
it  did  not  signify.  The  fat  old  landlady  had 
put  on  a  black  satin  dress,  with  white  ribbons 
and  orange  flowers !  We  had  breakfast  at  a 
quarter  to  nine  o'clock ;  at  half  past  nine  we 
started.  Cluny  was  at  the  door  with  his  wife 
and  daughters  with  nosegays,  and  the  volunteers 
were  drawn  up  in  front  of  the  inn.  They  had  all 
assembled  since  Saturday  afternoon  ! 

We  drove  as  we  did  yesterday.     Fine  and  very 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


209 


wild  scenery,  liigli  wild  hills,  and  no  habitations. 
We  went  by  the  Pass  of  Dimmouchter^  with  fine 
hills  on  both  sides  and  in  front  of  us ;  passed  be- 
tween two,  the  oie  on  our  left  called  Tlw  Boar 
of  Badenocli^  and  that  on  the  right  Tlw  Athoh 
Sow,  The  Pass  of  Drumouchter  separates  Perth- 
shire from  Inverness-shire, 

Again,  a  little  farther  on,  we  came  to  Locli 
Garry,  which  is  very  beautiful — but  the  mist 
covered  the  farthest  hills,  and  the  extreme  dis- 
tance was  clouded.  There  is  a  small  shooting- 
lodge,  or  farm,  charmingly  situated,  looking  up 
the  glen  on  both  sides,  and  with  the  loch  in 
front:  we  did  not  hear  to  whom  it  belonged. 
We  parsed  many  drovers,  without  theu'  herds 
and  flocks,  returning.  Grant  told  us,  from  Pal- 
Mrh.  We  had  one  very  heavy  shower  after  Loch 
Garry,  and  before  we  came  to  Dahiacardoch  Inn, 
13  miles  from  Dal/iohiivnie.  The  road  goes  beside 
the  Garry.  The  country  for  a  time  became  flat- 
ter, but  was  a  good  deal  cultivated.  At  Dalna- 
cardoch  Inn  there  was  a  suspicion  and  expectation 
of  our  arrival.  Four  horses  with  smart  postil- 
lions were  in  waiting ;  but,  on  General  Grey's 
saying  that  this  was  not  the  party,  but  the  one 
for  whom  only  two  horses  had  been  ordered,  a 
shabby  prir   of  horses   were   put  in,  a   shabby 


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210 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


driver  driving  from  the  box  (as  tLroiighout  tLis 
journey),  and  off  we  started. 

The  Garry  is  very  fine,  rolling  along  over  large 
stones — like  the  Quoicli  and  the  FisJiie^  and  form- 
ing perpetual  falls,  with  birch  and  mountain  ash 
growing  down  to  the  water's  edge.  We  had 
some  more  heavy  showers.  A  few  miles  from 
Dalnacardocli  the  Duke  of  A  thole  (in  his  kilt 
and  shooting-jacket,  as  usual)  met  us  on  a  pretty 
little  chestnut  pony,  and  rode  the  whole  time  near 
the  carriage.  He  said  there  "Vfere  vague  suspi- 
cions and  rumors  of  our  coming,  but  he  had  told 
no  one  any  thing.  There  was  again  a  shower, 
but  it  cleared  when  we  came  in  sight  of  Ben-y- 
GMo,  and  the  splendid  Pass  of  Killieeraifikie^ 
which,  with  the  birch  all  golden — not,  as  on  Dee- 
side,  bereft  of  leaves — looked  very  beautiful. 

We  passed  by  the  BruoA^  and  the  road  to  the 
Falls  of  the  Bruar^  but  could  not  stop.  The  Duke 
took  us  through  a  new  approach,  which  is  ex- 
tremely pretty,  but  near  which,  I  can  not  help  re- 
gretting, the  railroad  will  come,  as  well  as  along 
the  road  by  which  we  drove  through  the  Pass  of 
JJrumoucJiter.  The  Duke  has  made  great  im- 
provements, and  the  path  looked  beautiful,  sur- 
rounded as  it  is  by  hills;  and  the  foliage  still 
full,  though  in  all  its  autumn  tints — the  whole 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


211 


being  lit  up  with  bright  sunshine.  We  drove 
through  an  avenue,  and  in  a  few  minutes  more 
were  at  the  door  of  the  old  castle.  A  thousand 
recollections  of  seventeen  years  ago  crowded  upon 
me — all  seemed  so  familiar  again  !  No  one  there 
except  the  dear  Duchess,  who  stood  at  the  door, 
and  whom  I  warmly  embraced ;  and  Miss  Mac 
Gregor.  How  well  I  recognized  the  hall,  with  all 
the  sportirg  trophies :  and  the  staircase,  which  we 
went  up  at  once.  The  Duchess  took  us  to  a  room 
which  I  recognized  immediately  as  the  one  where 
Lady  Canning  lived.  There  we  took  off  our  things 
— then  went  to  look  at  the  old  and  really  very 
handsome  rooms  in  which  we  had  lived — the  one 
in  which  Vicky  had  slept  in  two  chairs,  then  not 
four  years  old !  In  the  dining-room  we  took  some 
coffee,  which  was  most  welcome ;  and  then  we 
looked  at  all  the  stags'  horns  put  up  in  one  of 
the  corridors  below ;  saw  the  Duke's  pet  dog,  a 
smooth-haired  black  terrier,  very  fat;  and  then 
got  into  the  carriage,  a  very  peculiar  one,  viz.,  a 
boat — a  mere  boat  (which  is  very  light),  put  on 
four  wheels,  drawn  by  a  pair  of  horses  with  a 
postillion.  Into  this  we  four  got,  with  the  Duke 
and  Duchess  and  the  dog — Lady  Churchill,  Gener- 
al Grey,  and  Miss  Mac  Gregor  going  in  another  car- 
riage, with  our  two  servants  on  the  box,  to  whom 


ill 


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212 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


all  this  was  new  and  a  great  treat.  The  morning 
was  beautiful.  It  was  half  past  twelve.  We 
drove  up  by  the  avenue  and  about  a  favorite  walk 
of  ours  in  '44,  passed  through  the  gate,  and  came 
on  to  Glen  Tilt,  which  is  most  striking,  the  road 
winding  along  first  on  one  side  of  the  Tiltj  and 
then  on  the  other ;  the  fine  high  hills  rising  very 
abruptly  from  each  side  of  the  rapid,  rocky,  stony 
Kiver  Tilt — the  trees,  chiefly  birch  and  alder,  over- 
hanging the  water. 

We  passed  the  Marble  Lodge  in  which  one  of 
the  keepers  live,  and  came  to  Forest  Lodge.,  where 
the  road  for  cairiages  ends,  and  the  glen  widens. 
There  were  our  ponies,  which  had  passed  the  right 
at  Bainocli  or  Beynoch  (a  shooting  "shiel"  of 
Lord  Fife's).  They,  came  over  this  morning,  but, 
poor  beasts,  without  having  had  any  corn  !  For- 
est Lodge  is  eight  miles  from  Blair.  There  v/e 
took  leave  of  the  dear  Duchess,  and  saw  old  Peter 
Frazer,  the  former  head  keeper  there,  now  walk- 
ing with  the  aid  of  two  sticks !  The  Duke's  keep- 
ers were  there,  his  pipers,  and  a  gentleman  staying 
on  a  visit  with  him. 

It  was  b£»rely  two  o'clock  when  we  started,  we 
on  our  ponies,  the  Duke  and  his  men  (twelve  alto- 
gether) on  foot — Sandy  McAra,  now  head  keeper, 
grown  old  and  gray,  and  two  pipers,  preceded  us, 


Ldfe  in  the  Highlands, 


213 


over- 


the  two  latter  playing  alternately  the  whole  time, 
which  had  a  most  cheerful  effect.  The  wild 
strains  sounded  so  softly  amid  those  noble  hills ; 
and  our  caravan  winding  along — our  people  and 
the  Duke's  all  in  kilts,  and  the  ponies,  made  alto- 
gether a  most  picturesque  scene. 

One  of  the  Duke's  keepers,  Donald  Macbeath, 
is  a  Guardsman,  and  was  in  the  Crimea.  He  is  a 
celebrated  marksman,  and  a  fine-looking  man,  as 
all  the  Duke's  men  are.  For  some  little  time  it 
was  easy  riding,  but  soon  we  came  to  a  rougher 
path,  more  on  the  "  brae"  of  the  hill,  where  the 
pony  required  to  be  led,  which  I  always  have 
done,  either  when  it  is  at  all  rough  or  bad,  or 
when  the  pony  has  to  be  got  on  faster. 

The  Duke  walked  near  me  the  greatei  part  of 
the  time,  amusingly  saying,  in  reference  to  former 
times,  that  he  did  not  offer  to  lead  me,  as  he  knew 
I  had  no  confidence  in  him.  I  replied,  laughing- 
ly, "  Oh  no,  only  I  like  best  being  led  by  the  per- 
son I  am  accustomed  to." 

At  length,  about  three,  we  stopped  and  lunched 
at  a  place  called  Dalcronachie,  looking  up  a  glen 
toward  Loch  Loch^  on  a  high  bank  overhanging 
the  Tilt.  Looking  back,  the  view  was  very  fine ; 
so,  while  the  things  were  being  unpacked  for 
lunch,  we  sketched.     We  brought  our  own  lunch- 


I  \\ 


'    5 


f   ' 


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as 


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214 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


eon,  and  the  remainder  was,  as  usual,  given  to  the 
men,  but  this  time  there  were  a  great  many  to 
feed.  After  luncheon  we  set  off  again.  I  walk- 
ed a  few  paces ;  but,  as  it  was  very  wet,  and  the 
road  very  rough,  by  Albert's  desii'e  I  got  on 
again.  A  very  few  mir  utes  brought  us  to  the  cel- 
ebrated ford  of  the  Tarff  {Poll  Tarff  it  is  called), 
which  is  very  deep,  and,  after  heavy  rain,  almost 
impassable.  The  Duke  offered  to  lead  the  pony 
on  one  side,  and  talked  of  Sandy  for  the  other 
side,  but  I  asked  for  Brown  (whom  I  have  far  the 
most  confidence  in)  to  lead  the  pony,  the  Duke 
taking  hold  of  it  (as  he  did  frequently)  on  the 
other  side.  Sandy  McAra,  the  guide,  and  the  two 
pipers  went  first,  playing  all  the  time.  To  all  ap- 
pearance the  ford  of  the  Tarff -wo,^  not  deeper  than 
the  other  fords,  but  once  in  it  the  men  were  above 
their  knees — and  suddenly  in  the  middle,  where 
the  current,  from  the  fine,  high,  full  falls,  is  very 
strong,  it  was  nearly  up  to  the  men's  waists. 
Here  Sandy  returned,  and  I  said  to  the  Duke 
(which  he  afterward  joked  with  Sandy  about) 
that  I  thought  he  (Sandy)  had  better  take  the 
Duke's  place ;  he  did  so,  and  we  came  very  well 
through,  all  the  others  following,  the  men  chiefly 
wading — Albert  (close  behind  me)  and  the  others 
riding  through — and  some  of  our  people  coming 


Life  in  the  Highlands, 


215 


over  douhle  on  the  ponies.  General  Gray  had 
little  Peter  Robertson  up  behind  him. 

The  road  after  this  became  almost  precipitous, 
and,  indeed,  very  unpleasant  to  ride ;  but,  being 
wet,  and  difficult  to  walk,  we  ladies  rode,  Albert 
walking  the  greater  part  of  the  time.  Only  once, 
for  a  very  few  steps,  I  had  to  get  off,  as  the  pony 
could  hardly  keep  footing.  As  it  was.  Brown 
constantly  could  not  walk  next  to  the  pony,  but 
had  to  scramble  below,  or  pull  it  after  him.  The 
Duke  was  indefatigable. 

The  Tilt  becomes  narrower  and  narrower  till 
its  first  source  is  almost  invisible.  The  Tai^ff 
flows  into  the  Tilt  about  two  miles  or  more  be- 
yond the  falls.  We  emerged  from  the  pass  upon 
an  open  valley,  with  less  high  hills  and  with  the 
hills  of  Braemar  before  us.  We  crossed  the 
Bainoch  or  Bynach,  quite  a  small  stream,  and 
when  we  came  to  the  "  County  March" — where 
Perth  and  Aberdeen  join — we  halted.  The  Duke 
gave  Albert  and  me  some  whisky  to  drink  out  of 
an  old  silver  flask  of  his  own,  and  then  made  a  short 
speech  proposing  my  health,  expressing  the  pleas- 
ure with  which  he  and  all  had  received  me  at 
Blair,  and  hoping  that  I  would  return  as  often  as 
I  liked,  and  that  I  should  have  a  safe  return  home ; 
ending  by  the  true  Highland  "Nis!   nis!  nis! 


■*  i    V 


!l 


216 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Sit  air,  a-nis!  A-ris!  a-ris!  a-ris!"  (pronounced 
"Neesh!  neesh !  neesh !  Sheet  eir,  a-neesli! 
A-rees !  a-rees !  a-rees !")  whicli  means,  "  Now ! 
now !  now !  That  to  him,  now !  Again !  again ! 
again !"  which  was  responded  to  by  cheering  from 
all.  Grant  then  proposed  "three  cheers  for  the 
Duke  of  Athole,"  which  was  also  very  warmly 
responded  to — my  pony  (good  "  Inchrory"),  which 
went  admirably,  rather  resenting  the  vehemence 
of  Brown's  cheering. 

We  then  went  on  again  for  about  three  miles 
to  the  Bainocli^  which  we  reached  at  ten  minutes 
to  six,  when  it  was  already  nearly  dark.  As  we 
approached  the  "  shiel,"  the  pipers  struck  up  and 
played.  The  ponies  went  so  well  with  the  pipes, 
and  altogether  it  was  very  pleasant  to  ride  and 
walk  with  them.  They  played  "  the  Athole  High- 
landers" when  we  started,  and  again  in  coming  in. 

Lady  Fife  had  very  kindly  come  down  to  the 
Bainoch  herself,  where  she  gave  us  tea,  which 
was  very  welcome.  We  then  got  into  our  car- 
riages, wishing  the  good  Duke  of  Athole  good-by. 
He  was  going  back  the  whole  way,  which  was 
certainly  rather  a  hazardous  proceeding — at  least 
an  adventurous  one,  considering  the  night,  and 
that  there  was  no  moon — and  what  the  road  was ! 
We  got  home  safely  at  a  quarter  past  eight.    Tlio 


Life  in  Oie  Iliglilands. 


217 


n  ::\i 


night  was  quite  warm,  thougli  sliglitly  showery, 
but  became  very  clear  and  starlight  later. 

We  had  traveled  09  miles  to-day  and  GO  yester- 
day. This  was  the  pleasant  est  and  most  enjoy- 
able expedition  I  ever  made,  and  the  recollection 
of  it  will  always  be  most  agreeable  to  me,  and  in- 
crease my  wish  to  make  more !  Was  so  glad  dear 
Louis  (who  is  a  charming  companion)  was  with 
us.  Have  enjoyed  nothing  as  much,  or  indeed 
felt  so  much  cheered  by  any  thing  since  my  great 
sorrow.*  Did  not  feel  tired.  We  ladies  did  not 
dress,  and  dined  en  famiUe^\o6km^  at  maps  of  the 
HigMands  after  dinner.  .   i 


Last  Expeditioi^. 


•Vt 


;  ft' 


Wednesday^  October  16, 1861. 
To  our  great  satisfaction,  it  was  a  most  beauti- 
ful morning.  Not  a  cloud  was  on  the  bright 
blue  sky,  and  it  was  perfectly  calm.  There  had 
been  a  sharp  frost  which  lay  on  parts  of  the 
grass,  and  the  mountains  were  beautifully  lit  up, 
with  those  very  blue  shades  upon  them,  like  the 
*  The  death  of  the  Duchess  of  Kent. 

K 


! 


^^ 


hi: 


»  ! 


%m 


218 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


bloom  on  a  plum.  Up  early,  and  breakfasted 
witli  Alice,  Louis,  and  Lenclien,  in  our  room.  At 
twenty  minutes  to  nine  o'clock  we  started,  with 
Alice,  LencLen,  and  Louis.  The  morning  was  be- 
yond every  thing  splendid,  and  the  country  in 
such  beauty,  though  the  poor  trees  are  nearly 
leafless. 

Near  Castleton^  and  indeed  all  along  the  road, 
in  the  shade,  the  frost  still  lay,  and  the  air  was 
very  sharp.  We  took  post-horses  at  Castletcniy 
and  proceeded  up  Glen  Ciunie  to  Glen  Callater, 
which  looked  lovely,  and  wdiich  Albert  admired 
much.  In  a  little  more  than  two  hours  we  were 
at  Loch  Callater :  the  road  was  very  bad  indeed 
as  we  approached  the  loch,  where  our  ponies  were 
waiting  for  us.  After  walking  a  few  paces  we 
remounted  them,  I  on  my  good  "  Fyvie,"  and  Al- 
ice on  "  Inchrory." 

The  day  was  glorious,  and  the  w^hole  expedi- 
tion delightful  and  very  easily  performed.  We 
ascended  Little  Cairii  Ttirc^  on  the  north  side  of 
Locli  Callater^  up  a  sort  c^f  footpath  very  easy  and 
even,  upon  ground  that  was  almost  flat,  rising 
very  gradually,  but  imperceptibly;  and  the  view 
became  wonderfully  extensive.  The  top  of  Cairn 
T'lirc  is  quite  flat,  with  moss  and  graos,  so  that 
you  could  drive  upon  it.     It  is  very  high,  for  you 


Life  in  the  Uighlands. 


219 


see  the  Ligli  table-land  behind  the  highest  point 
oi Loch-na-Gar.  On  that  side  you  have  no  view, 
but  from  the  other  it  is  wonderfully  extensive. 
It  was  so  clear  and  bright",  and  so  still  there,  re- 
minding us  of  the  day  on  J3eu  Miiich  Dlmi  last 
year. 

There  rose  immediately  behind  us  Ben  Mwicli 
Dlmij  which  you  hardly  ever  see,  and  the  shape 
of  which  is  not  fine,  with  its  surrounding  mount- 
ains of  Cairngorm^  BraeHiacJi^  Ben  Avon  ovA'an, 
Ben-na-Bhourd,  etc.  We  saw  Beny-GMo  quite 
clearly,  and  all  that  range  of  hills ;  then,  farther 
west,  ShichalUony  near  Locli  Tay  ;  the  mountains 
which  are  near  the  Black  Mount ;  and,  quite  on 
the  horizon,  we  could  discern  Be7i  Nevis^  which  is 
ahove  I^hi't  William. 

Going  up  Oair7i  Tare  we  looked  down  upon 
Bach  Canter^  a  small  loch  above  Loch  Callater, 
veiy  wild  and  dark.  We  proceeded  to  Cairn 
GlaishiCy  at  the  extreme  point  of  which  a  cairn 
has  been  erected.  We  got  off  to  take  a  look  at 
the  wonderful  panorama  which  Ipy  stretched  out 
before  us.  We  looked  on  FifesJiire,  and  the  coun- 
try between  Perth  and  Stirling  ^t]iQ  Lomond  Hills, 
etc.  It  was  beautifully  clear,  and  really  it  was 
most  interesting  to  look  over  such  an  immense 
extent  of  the  Highlands.    I  give  a  very  poor  de- 


Hi 


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i  «  ' 

1 

1 

220 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


scription  of  it ;  but  here  follows  a  rough  account 
of  the  places  we  saw. 

To  the  north — I^eii  Mulch  Dhiiy  Brae  Itiacli^ 
Cairiigorm^  Ben  Avotiy  Beii-na-Bhow'd. 

To  the  east — Locli-na-Gar^  etc. 

To  the  nortL^vest — Ben-yGMo  or  Ben-y-Gloe^ 
and  the  surrounding  hills  beyond  Sliiclmllion^  and 
the  mountains  between  Dunlceld  and  the  Black 
Mount. 

Quite  in  the  extreme  west — Ben  Nevis. 

To  the  south — the  Lomond  Hills  /  Berth  in  the 
middle  distance. 

We  walked  a  little  way,  and  then  I  got  upon 
my  pony.  Another  half  hour's  riding  again  over 
such  sinorular  flat  table-land  brought  us  on  to  the 
edge  of  the  valley  of  Cairn  Luchan^  which  is  indeed 
"  a  bonuie  place."  It  reminded  me  and  Louis  of 
Clova^  only  there  one  did  not  see  the  immense  ex- 
tent of  mountains  behind.  Cairn  Lochan  is  a  nar- 
row valley,  the  Eiver  Isla  winding  through  it  like 
a  silver  ribbon,  v  -f.h  trees  at  the  bottom.  The 
hills  are  green  a. id  steep,  but  toward  the  head  of 
the  valley  there  are  fine  precipices.  "We  had  then 
to  take  a  somewhat  circuitous  route  in  order  to 
avoid  some  bogs,  and  to  come  to  a  spot  where  we 
looked  right  up  the  valley  for  an  immense  dis- 
tance ;  to  the  left,  or  rather  more  to  the  south,  was 


'■.1 

'i3 


Life  in  the  Ilignlands. 


221 


1 


I 


Gle?i  Ishy  another  glen,  but  wider,  and  not  with 
the  same  high  mountains  as  Cairn  Lochan.  Be- 
yond Glen  Ida  were  seen  the  Lomond  Hills  be- 
hind Kinross  J  at  the  foot  of  wliich  is  Loch  Leven. 

We  sat  en  a  very  precipitous  place,  which  made 
one  dread  any  one  moving  backward ;  and  here, 
at  a  little  before  two  o'clock,  we  lunched.  The 
lights  were  charmingly  soft,  and,  as  I  said  before, 
like  the  bloom  on  a  plum.  The  luncheon  was 
very  acceptable,  for  the  air  was  extremely  keen, 
and  we  found  ice  thicker  than  a  shilling  on  the 
top  of  Cairn  Turc^  which  did  not  melt  when 
Brown  took  it  and  kept  it  in  his  hand. 

Helena  was  so  delighted,  for  this  was  the  only 
really  great  expedition  in  which  she  had  accom- 
panied us. 

Duncan  and  the  keeper  at  Loch  Calluter  (R. 
Stewart)  went  with  us  as  guides. 

I  made  some  hasty  sketches;  and  then  Albert 
wrote  on  a  bit  of  paper  that  we  had  lunched  here, 
put  it  into  the  Seltzer-water  bottle,  and  buried  it 
there,  or  rather  stuck  it  into  the  ground.  Grant 
had  done  the  same  when  we  visited  J3e7i  Muich 
Dhui  the  first  time.  This  over,  we  walked  part 
cf  the  way  back  which  we  had  ridden  to  avoid 
the  bogs — we  ladies  walking  only  a  short  way, 
and  then  riding.     We  altered  our  course,  and  left 


Ml 


■v^^4'    ? 


222 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Cair7i  Glaisliie  to  our  right,  and  went  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  Cairn  Wall.  Looking  back  on  the 
distant  hills  above  Glen  Ida  and  (Jairn  Loclian 
(Lord  Airlie's ''  Country"),  it  was  even  more  beau- 
tiful ;  for,  as  the  day  advanced,  the  mountains  be- 
came clearer  and  clearer,  of  a  lovely  blue,  while 
the  valleys  were  in  shadow.  Shicliallion,  and 
those  farther  ranges,  were  also  most  perfectly  to 
be  seen,  and  gave  me  such  a  longing  for  farther 
Highland  expeditions !  We  went  over  Garhcliory, 
looking  down  on  the  road  to  the  Spittal,  and  on 
the  lower  mountains,  which  are  most  curiously 
connected  one  with  another,  and  which,  from  the 
height  we  were,  we  could  look  down  uj)on. 

Here  follows  the  account  of  our  route,  with  all 
the  names  as  written  down  by  Duncan.  I  can 
not "  mind"  the  names,  as  they  say  here. 

Yvoxa  Balmoral  to 

Loclh  Callater^  four  miles. 

Left  Loclh  CaUater  at  11  o'clock  A.M. 

Little  Cairn  TtLrc, 

Big  Cairn  Turc, 

Loclh  Canter^ 

Cairn  GlaisMe^ 

Cairn  Lochan^ 

Ca-JSTess,  six  miles. 


Life  in  the  Uighlands, 


223 


Keturning  route : 
Cairn  Lochan, 
Cairn  Glasliie, 
Garh  Cliory^ 
MontJh  Mgie  Boad, 
Glass  Meallj    , 
Fian  Cliory^        .    ,        / 
Aron  Gliei/j 

Bliean  Spittal  Bridge^  4  30  P.M. 
Sliean  Spittal  Bridge  to  Balmoral,  16  miles. 


Ijj 


This  gave  one  a  very  good  idea  of  tlie  geogra- 
phy of  tlie  country,  which  delighted  dear  Albert, 
as  this  expedition  was  quite  in  a  different  direc- 
tion from  any  that  we  had  ever  made  before;  but 
my  head  is  so  very  ungeographical  that  I  can  not 
describe  it.  We  came  down  by  the  Month  Eigie, 
a  steej)  hill  covered  ^vith  grass,  down  part  of  which 
I  rode,  walking  where  it  was  steej^est ;  but  it  was 
so  wet  and  slipjDcry  that  I  had  two  falls.  We  got 
down  to  the  road  to  the  SpMal  Bridge,  about  15 
miles  from  Castleton,  at  nearly  half  past  four,  and 
then  down  along  the  new  road,  at  least  that  i:)art 
of  it  which  is  finished,  and  which  is  to  extend  to 
the  Cairn  Wall.  We  went  back  on  our  side  of 
the  river,  and,  if  we  liad  been  a  little  earlier,  Al- 
bert might  have  got  a  stag;  but  it  was  too  late. 


224 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


The  moon  rose  and  shone  most  beautifully,  and 
we  returned  at  twenty  minutes  to  seven  o'clock, 
much  pleased  and  interested  with  this  delightful 
expedition.     Alas !  I  fear  our  last  great  one ! 


(It  was  our  last  one! — 1867.) 


7,  and 
'clock, 
glitful 


TOURS 


IN 


ENGLAND    AND    IRELAND 


AND 


YACHTING  EXCURSIONS. 


\J  M 


K2 


I 


; 


First  Visit  to  Ireland. 


i^'fl 


On  Board  tlie  Victoria  and  Albert^ 
ill  the  Cove  of  Corh, 
Thursday^  August  2, 1849. 
Arrived  here  after  a  quick  but  not  very  pleas- 
ant passage.  The  day  was  fine  and  bright,  and 
the  sea,  to  all  appearance,  very  smooth ;  but  there 
was  a  dreadful  swell,  which  made  one  incapable 
of  reading  or  doing  any  thing.  We  passed  the 
Lands  Mid  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
When  we  went  on  deck  after  eight  in  the  even- 
ing, we  were  close  to  the  Cove  of  Cor\  and  could 
see  many  bonfires  on  the  hill,  and  the  rockets  and 
lights  that  were  sent  off  from  the  different  steam- 
ers.  The  harbor  is  immense,  though  the  land  is 
not  very  high,  and,  entering  by  twilight,  it  had  a 
very  fine  effect.  Lady  Jocelyn,  Miss  Dawson,  Lord 
Fortescue  (Lord  Steward),  Sir  George  Grey  (Sec- 
retary of  State  for  the  Home  Department),  Miss 
Hildyard,  Sir  James  Clark,  and  Mr.  Birch  are  on 
board  with  us.  The  equerries,  Colonel  Phipps  and 
Colonel  Gordon,  are  on  board  the  "  Black  Eagle." 


ft-  " 


i4  r 
1*  t 


\\      ■!*?. 


228 


Life  in  the  Highlands, 


'  Friday,  August  ^. 

The  clay  was  gray  and  excessively  "muggy," 
wliicli  is  the  character  of  the  Irish  climate.  The 
ships  saluted  at  eight  o'clock,  and  the  "  Ganges" 
(the  flag-ship  and  a  three-decker)  and  the  "  Hogue" 
(a  three-decker  cut  down,  with  very  heavy  guns, 
and  with  a  screw  put  into  her),  which  are  both 
very  near  us,  made  a  great  noise.  The  harbor  is 
very  extensive,  and  there  are  several  islands  in  it, 
one  of  which  is  very  large.  Spilce  Island  is  im- 
mediately opposite  us,  and  has  a  convict  prison ; 
near  it  another  island  with  the  depot,  etc.  In  a 
line  with  that  is  the  town  of  Cove,  picturesquely 
built  up  a  hill.  The  two  war-steamers  have  only 
just  come  in.  The  Admiral  (Dickson)  and  the 
Captains  of  the  vessels  came  on  board.  Later, 
Lord  Bandon  (Lord  Lieutenant  of  the  county). 
Lord  Thomond,  General  Turner,  Commander  of 
the  Forces  at  Cork,  presented  their  respects,  and 
Albert  went  on  shore,  and  I  occupied  myself  in 
writing  and  sketching.  Albert  returned  before 
our  luncheon,  and  had  been  walking  about  and 
visiting  some  of  the  cabins. 

We  left  the  yacht  at  two  with  the  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  and  went  on  board  the  "Fairy,"  which 
was  surrounded  with  rowing  and  sailing  boats. 


-I  1 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


229 


11 


^11 


a 


•  of 


We  first  went  round  the  harbor,  all  the  ships  sa- 
luting, as  well  as  numbers  of  steamers  and  yachts. 
We  then  went  in  to  C(yve,  and  lay  alongside  the 
landing-place,  which  was  very  prettily  decorated, 
and  covered  with  people ;  and  yachts,  ships,  and 
boats  crowding  all  round.  The  two  members, 
Messrs.  Koche  and  Power,  as  well  as  other  gentle- 
men, including  the  Eoman  Catholic  and  Protest- 
ant clergymen,  and  then  the  members  of  the  Yacht 
Club,  presented  addresses.  After  which,  to  give 
the  people  the  satisfaction  of  calling  the  place 
Q^ieenstoivii,  in  honor  of  its  being  the  first  spot 
on  which  I  set  foot  upon  Irish  ground,  I  stepped 
on  shore  amid  the  roar  of  cannon  (for  the  artille- 
ry were  placed  so  close  as  quite  to  shake  the  tem- 
porary room  which  we  entered)  and  the  enthusi- 
astic shouts  of  the  people.  We  immediately  re- 
embarked,  and  proceeded  up  the  River  Zee  toward 
Ca?'Jc.  It  is  extremely  pretty  and  richly  wooded, 
and  reminded  me  of  the  Tama?'.  The  first  feature 
of  interest  we  passed  was  a  little  bathing -place 
called  MbnJcstow7i,  and  later  Blackrock  Castle.,  at 
which  point  we  stopped  to  receive  a  salmon,  and 
very  pretty  address  from  the  poor  fishermen  of 
Bkackrock. 

As  we   approached  the  city  we   saw  people 
streaming  in,  on  foot,  on  horseback,  and  many  in 


1 
1 1 

) 

^ 

i 

230 


Life  in  Hie  Highlands. 


jaunting-cars.  Wlien  we  reached  Corlc  the  "  Fai- 
ry" again  lay  alongside,  and  we  received  all  the 
addresses :  first,  from  the  Mayor  and  Corporation 
(I  knighted  the  Mayor  immediately  afterward) ; 
then  from  the  Protestant  Bishop  and  clergy;  from 
the  Koman  Catholic  Bishop  and  clergy ;  from  the 
Lord  Lieutenant  of  the  county,  the  Sheriffs,  and 
others.  The  two  Judges,  who  were  holding  their 
courts,  also  came  on  board  in  their  robes.  After 
all  this  was  over  we  landed,  and  walked  some  few 
paces  on  to  where  Lord  Bandon's  carriage  was 
ready  to  receive  us.  The  ladies  went  with  us, 
p'ld  Lord  Bandon  and  the  General  rode  on  each 
side  of  the  carriage.  The  Mayor  preceded  us, 
and  many  (Lord  Listowel  among  the  number) 
followed  on  horseback  or  in  carriages.  The  12th 
Lancers  escorted  us,  and  the  Pensioners  and  In- 
fantry lined  the  streets. 

I  can  not  describe  our  route,  but  it  will  suffice 
to  say  that  it  took  two  hours;  that  we  drove 
through  the  principal  streets ;  twice  through  some 
of  them ;  that  they  were  densely  crowded,  deco- 
rated with  flowers  and  triumphal  arches;  that 
the  heat  and  dust  were  great ;  that  we  passed  by 
the  new  College  which  is  building — one  of  the 
four  which  are  ordered  by  Act  of  Parliament; 
that  our  reception  was  most  enthusiastic;   and 


Life  in  the  IligJilands. 


231 


that  every  thing  went  off  to  perfection,  and  was 
very  well  arranged.  Co?'h  is  not  at  all  like  an 
English  town,  and  looks  rather  foreign.  The 
crowd  is  a  noisy,  excitable,  but  very  good-humor- 
ed one,  running  and  pushing  about,  and  laughing, 
talking,  and  shrieking.  The  beauty  of  the  women 
is  very  remarkable,  and  struck  us  much;  such 
beautiful  dark  eyes  and  hair,  and  such  fine  teeth; 
almost  every  third  woman  was  pretty,  and  some 
remarkably  so.  They  wear  no  bonnets,  and  gen- 
erally long  blue  cloaks ;  the  men  are  very  poorly, 
often  raggedly  dressed ;  and  many  wear  blue 
coats  and  short  breeches,  with  blue  stockings. 

We  re -embarked  at  the  same  place,  and  re- 
turned just  as  we  came. 


Kingston  IIarhoi\  iJuhUn  Bay^  \ 
Sundcty,  August  5.  ) 
Safely  arrived  here:  I  now  continue  my  ac- 
count. For  the  first  two  hours  and  a  half  the 
sea,  though  rough,  was  not  disagreeable.  We  en- 
tered Waterford  Harhor  yesterday  at  twenty  min- 
utes to  four  o'clock.  The  harbor  is  rocky  on  the 
right  as  one  enters,  and  very  flat  to  the  left ;  as 
one  proceeds  the  land  rises  on  either  side.  We 
passed  a  little  fort  called  Duncannon  Fort^  whence 


232 


Life  in  the  Uighlands. 


James  II.  embarked  after  the  battle  of  the  Boyne^ 
and  from  which  they  had  not  saluted  for  fifty 
years.  Farther  up,  between  two  little  villages, 
one  on  either  side,  each  with  its  little  chapel,  pic- 
turesquely situated  on  the  top  of  the  rock  or  hill, 
we  anchored.  The  little  fishing-place  to  our  left 
is  called  Passage,  and  is  famous  for  salmon :  we 
had  an  excellent  specimen  for  our  dinner.  Albert 
decided  on  going  to  Waterford,  ten  miles  up  the 
river,  in  the  "  Fairy,"  with  the  boys,  but  as  I  felt 
giddy  and  tired,  I  preferred  remaining  quietly  on 
board  sketching.  Albert  returned  after  seven 
o'clock;  Le  had  not  landed. 


Viceregal  Lodge,  Plicenix  Parh,  \ 
Monday,  August  G.  ) 
Here  we  are  in  this  very  pretty  spot,  with  a 
lovely  view  of  the  WicMow  Hills  from  the  win- 
dow. But  now  to  return  to  yesterday's  proceed- 
ings. We  got  under  weigh  at  half  past  eight 
o'clock ;  for  three  hours  it  was  dreadfully  rough, 
and  I  and  the  poor  children  were  very  sea-sick. 
A\lien  we  had  passed  the  Tuscar  Pock  in  Wexford 
the  sea  beer  ne  smoother,  and  shortly  after  quite 
smooth,  and  the  evening  beautiful.  After  we 
pacsed  Arhloio  Head  the  WieMoio  Hills  came  in 


LxJq  i)L  the  IlifjJdands. 


233 


sight:  tliey  are  beautiful.  The  Sugarhaf  and 
Carrich  Mountain  have  finely  -  pointed  outlines, 
with  low  hills  in  front  and  much  wood.  At  hair 
past  six  we  came  in  sight  of  Duhlin  Bay,  and 
■were  met  by  the  "  Sphinx"  and  "  Stromboli"  (which 
had  been  sent  on  to  wait  and  to  come  in  with  lis), 
the  "  Trident,"  and,  quite  close  to  the  harbor,  by 
the  "  Dragon,"  another  w^ar- steamer.  With  this 
large  squadron  we  steamed  slowly  and  majestic- 
ally into  the  harbor  oi Kingston^  w^hich  was  cov- 
ered with  thousands  and  thousands  of  spectators, 
cheering  most  enthusiastically.  It  is  a  splendid 
harbor,  and  was  full  of  ships  of  every  kind.  T\e 
wharf,  where  the  landing-place  was  prepared,  was 
densely  crowded,  and  altogether  it  was  a  noble 
and  stirring  scene.  It  was  just  seven  when  we 
entered,  and  the  setting  sun  lit  up  the  country, 
the  fine  buildings,  and  the  whole  scene  with  a 
glowing  light,  which  was  truly  beautiful.  "We 
were  soon  surrounded  by  boats,  and  the  enthusi- 
asm, and  excitement  of  the  people  were  extreme. 
"While  we  were  at  breakfast  the  yacht  was 
brought  close  up  to  the  wharf,  which  was  lined 
with  troops.  Lord  and  Lady  Clarendon  and 
George*  came  on  board ;  also  Lords  Lansdowne 
and  Clanricarde,  the  Primate,  the  Archbishop  of 


*  The  Duke  of  Cambridge. 


234 


Life  in  the  IIi(jhlanc{s. 


I    < 

I   V- 


Dublin,  and  miiny  others.  The  address  was  pre- 
sented by  the  Sheriff  and  gentlemen  of  the  coun- 
ty. As  the  clock  struck  ten  we  diserabaiKed, 
stepping  on  shore  from  the  yacht,  Albert  leading 
me  and  the  children,  and  all  the  others  following 
us.  An  immense  multitude  had  assembled,  who 
cheered  most  enthusiastically,  the  ships  saluting 
and  the  bands  playing,  and  it  was  really  very 
striking.  The  space  we  had  to  walk  along  to 
the  railroad  was  covered  in,  and  lined  with  ladies 
and  gentlemen  strewing  flowers.  We  entered  the 
railway  carriages  with  the  children,  the  Claren- 
dons, and  the  three  ladies,  and  in  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  reached  the  Dublin  station.  Here  we  found 
our  cairiages,  with  the  postillions  in  their  -"ot 
liveries.  The  two  eldest  children  went  with  us, 
and  the  two  younger  ones  with  the  three  ladies. 
Sir  Edward  Blakeney,  Commander-in-Chief  in  Ire- 
land, rode  on  one  side  of  the  carriage,  and  George 
on  the  other,  followed  by  a  brilliant  staff,  and  es- 
corted by  the  17th  Lancers  and  the  Carabiniers. 
It  was  a  wonderful  and  striking  scene,  sucb 
masses  of  human  beings,  so  enthusiastic,  so  ex- 
cited, yet  such  perfect  order  maintained ;  then  the 
number  of  troops,  the  different  bands  stationed  at 
certain  distances,  the  waving  of  hats  and  handker- 
chiefs, the  bursts  of  welcome  which  rent  the  air — 


U—ilJ^ 


Ji 


Life  in  Hie  Iligldands. 


235 


all  made  it  a  n(?ver-to-l)e-forgotten  scene,  when 
one  reflected  liow  lately  the  country  liad  been  in 
open  revolt  and  under  martial  law. 

Diihliii  is  a  very  fine  city,  and  Sachville  Street 
and  Merrio7i  Square  are  remarkably  large  and 
handsome ;  and  the  Banh,  Trinity  College ,  etc.,  are 
noble  buildinejs.  There  are  no  cates  to  the  town, 
but  temporary  ones  were  erected  under  an  arch ; 
and  here  we  stopj^ed,  and  the  Mayor  presented 
me  the  keys  with  some  appropriate  words.  At 
the  last  triumphal  arch  a  poor  little  dove  was  let 
down  into  my  lap,  with  an  olive-branch  round 
its  neck,  alive  and  verv  tame.  The  heat  and  dust 
were  tremendous.  ^. .  e  reached  Phoenix  Par\ 
which  is  very  extensive,  at  twelve.  Lord  and 
Lady  Clarendon  and  all  the  household  received  us 
at  the  door.  It  is  a  nice,  comfortable  house,  re- 
minding us  of  Claremontj  with  a  pretty  teiTace 
garden  in  front  (laid  out  by  Lady  Normanby), 
and  has  a  very  extensive  view  of  the  Pa7'h  and 
the  fine  range  of  the  WicMoio  Moimtains.  We 
are  most  comfortably  lodged,  aud  have  very  nice 
rooms. 


Tuesday y  August  7. 
We  drove  into  DvWin — with  our  two  ladies — 
in  Lord  Clarendon's  carriage,  the  gentlemen  fol- 


236 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


■I     ■■'SL 

•a,  ^ 


lowing^  and  without  any  escort.  The  people  were 
very  enthusiastic,  and  cheered  a  great  deal.  We 
went  first  to  the  Banh^  where  the  Directors  re- 
ceived us,  and  then  to  the  printing-room,  and  from 
thence  viewed  the  old  Houses  of  Lords  and  Com- 
mons, for  what  is  now  the  Bank  was  the  old  Par- 
liament House.  From  here  we  drove  to  the 
Model  School,  where  we  were  received  hj  tho 
Archbishop  of  Dublin,  the  Eoman  Catholic  Arch- 
bishop Murray  (a  fine,  venerable-looking  old  man 
of  eighty),  and  the  other  gentlemen  connected 
with  the  school.  We  saw  the  Infant,  the  Girls\ 
and  the  Boys^  ScJiools  ;  in  the  latter,  one  class  of 
boys  was  examined  in  mental  arithmetic  and  in 
many  very  difficult  things,  and  they  all  answered 
wonderfully.  Children  of  all  creeds  are  admitted, 
and  their  different  doctrines  are  taught  separately, 
if  the  parents  wish  it ;  but  the  07ily  teaching  en- 
forced is  that  of  the  Gospel  truths,  and  love  and 
charity.  This  is  truly  Christian,  and  ought  to  be 
the  case  every  where.  About  1000  children  are 
educated  here  annually,  of  which  800  are  trained 
as  schoolmasters  and  mistresses.  From  here  we 
visited  Trinity  College,  the  L^ish  University,  which 
is  not  conducted  upon  so  liberal  a  system,  but  into 
which  Eoman  Catholics  are  admitted.  Dr.  Todd, 
the  secretary,  and  a  very  learned  man,  well  versed 


into 
)dcl, 
•sed 


Life  in  the  Highlands.  237 

in  the  Irish  language,  showed  ua  some  most  inter- 
esting ancient  manuscripts  and  relics,  including 
St.  Columba's  Book  (in  which  \yq  wrote  our 
names),  and  the  original  harp  of  King  O'Brian, 
supposed  to  be  the  one  from  ^vhich  the  Irish  arms 
are  taken.  The  library  is  a  very  large,  handsome 
room,  like  that  in  Trinity  College^  Camhrdge.  We 
then  proceeded  toward  home,  the  crowd  in  the 
streets  immense,  and  so  loyal.  It  rained  a  little 
at  intervals.  Home  by  a  litxle  past  one.  Albert 
went  into  Duhlin  again  after  luncheon,  and  I 
wrote  and  read,  and  heard  our  children  say  some 
lessons. 

At  five  we  proceeded  to  Kihnainliam  Hospital, 
very  near  here ;  Lord  Clarendon  going  in  the  car- 
riage with  the  ladies  and  myself,  Albert  and  the 
other  gentlemen  riding.  Sir  Edward  Blakeney 
and  his  staff,  and  George,  received  us.  We  saw 
the  old  pensioners,  the  chapel,  and  the  hall,  a  fine 
large  room  (where  all  the  pensioners  dine,  as  at 
Chelsea) y  and  then  Sir  Edward's  private  apart- 
ments. We  afterward  took  a  drive  through  all 
the  principal  parts  of  Duhlin  —  College  Green, 
where  the  celebrated  statue  of  William  the  Third 
is  to  be  seen ;  Stephens^ s  Green,  by  The  Four 
Coiirts,  a  very  handsome  building;  and,  though 
we  were  not  expected,  the  crowds  were  in  many 


m^ 


i-i- 


'■"'  r  *<' 


238 


Life  in  the  Higlilands. 


places  very  great.  We  returned  a  little  before 
seven.  A  large  dinner.  After  dinner  above  two 
or  three  hundred  people  arrived,  including  most 
of  the  Irish  nobility  and  many  of  the  gentry;  and 
afterward  there  was  a  ball. 


Wednesday^  Aiigiist  8. 
At  twenty  minutes  to  one  o'clock  we  left  for 
Dublin^  I  and  all  the  ladies  in  evening  dresses,  all 
the  gentlemen  in  uniform.  We  drove  straight  to 
the  Castle.  Every  thing  here  as  at  St.  Jameses 
Levee.  The  staircase  and  throne-room  quite  like 
a  palace.  I  received  (on  the  throne)  the  addresses 
of  the  Lord  Mayor  and  Corporation,  the  Universi- 
ty, the  Archbishoj)  and  Bishops,  both  Roman  Cath- 
olic and  Anglican,  the  Presbyterians,  the  non-sub- 
scribing Presbyterians,  and  the  Quakers.  They 
also  presented  Albert  with  addresses.*  Then  fol- 
lowed a  very  long  Levee,  which  lasted  without 
intermission  till  twenty  minutes  to  six  o'clock ! 
Two  thousand  people  were  presented ! 

*  Lord  Breadalbane  (Lord  Chamberlain)  was  in  attend- 
ance, having  joined  us  on  our  arrival  in  Dublin. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


239 


Thttrsday^  August  9. 
There  was  a  great  and  brilliant  review  in  the 
Plimnix  Parle — six  thousand  one  hundred  and 
sixty  men,  including  the  Constabulary.  In  the 
evening  we  two  dined  alone,  and  at  half  past 
eight  o'clock  drove  into  Dublin  for  the  Drawing- 
room.  It  is  always  held  here  of  an  evening.  I 
should  think  between  two  and  three  thousand 
people  passed  before  us,  and  one  thousand  six 
hundred  ladies  were  presented.  After  it  was  over 
we  walked  through  St.  Patrick^ s  Hall  and  the 
other  rooms,  and  the  crowd  was  very  great.  "We 
came  back  to  the  Plimnix  Parh  at  half  past 
twelve,  the  streets  still  densely  crowded.  The 
city  was  illuminated. 


Ittend- 


Friday,  August  10. 
At  a  quarter  to  twelve  o'clock  we  set  out,  with 
all  our  suite,  for  Carton^  the  Duke  of  Leinster's, 
Lord  and  Lady  Clarendon  in  the  carriage  with  us. 
We  went  through  Woodlands^  a  place  belonging 
to  Mr.  White,  in  which  there  are  beautiful  lime- 
trees  ;  and  we  passed  by  the  "  Preparatoiy  Col- 
lege" for  Maynootli ;  and  not  far  from  Carton  we 
saw  a  number  of  the  Maynooth  students.     The 


('* 


240 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


park  of  Carton  is  very  fine.  We  arrived  there  at 
a  little  past  one,  and  were  received  by  the  Duke 
and  Duchess  of  Leinster,  the  Kildares,  Mr.  and 
Lady  C.  Repton,  and  their  two  sons.  We  walked 
out  into  the  garden,  where  all  the  company  were 
assembled,  and  the  two  bands  playing ;  it  is  very 
pretty — a  sort  of  formal  French  garden,  with  rows 
of  Irish  yews.  We  walked  round  the  garden 
twice,  the  Duke  leiiding  me,  and  Albert  the  Duch- 
ess. The  Duke  is  one  of  the  kindest  and  best  of 
men. 

After  luncheon  we  walked  out  and  saw  some 
of  the  country  people  dance  ji^s,  which  was  very 
amusing.  It  is  quite  different  from  the  Scotch 
reel ;  not  so  animated,  and  the  steps  different,  but 
very  droll.  The  people  were  veiy  poorly  dressed 
in  thick  coats,  and  the  women  in  shawls.  There 
was  one  man  who  was  a  regular  specimen  of  an 
Irishman,  with  his  hat  on  one  ear.  Others  in  blue 
coats,  with  short  breeches  and  blue  stockings. 
There  were  three  old  and  tattered  pipers  playing. 
The  Irish  pipe  is  very  different  to  the  Scotch ;  it 
is  very  weak,  and  they  don't  blow  into  it,  but 
merely  have  small  bellows  which  they  move  with 
the  arm.  We  walked  round  the  pleasure-grounds, 
and  after  this  got  into  a  carriage  with  the  Duke 
and  Duchess,  our  ladies  and  gentlemen  following 


.  M- 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


241 


in  a  large  jaunting-car,  and  tlie  people  riding,  run- 
ning, and  driving  with  us,  but  extremely  well-be- 
haved ;  and  the  Duke  is  so  kind  to  them,  that  a 
word  from  him  will  make  them  do  any  thing.  It 
was  very  hot,  and  yet  the  people  kept  running 
the  whole  way,  and  in  the  thick  woolen  coats, 
which  it  seems  they  always  wear  here.  We  drove 
along  the  park  to  a  spot  which  commands  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  Wichlow  Hills.  We  then  went 
down  an  entirely  new  road,  cut  out  of  the  solid 
rock,  through  a  beautiful  valley,  full  of  the  finest 
trees,  growing  among  rocks  close  to  a  piece  of  wa- 
ter. We  got  out,  and  walked  across  a  little  wood- 
en bridge  to  a  very  pretty  little  cottage,  entirely 
ornamented  with  shells,  etc.,  by  the  Duchess.  We 
drove  back  in  the  jaunting-car,  which  is  a  double 
one,  with  four  wheels,  and  held  a  number  of  us — 
I  sitting  on  one  side,  between  Albert  and  the 
Duke ;  the  Duchess,  Lady  Jocelyn,  Lord  Claren- 
don, and  Lady  Waterford  on  the  opposite  side ; 
George  at  the  back,  and  the  equerries  on  either 
side  of  the  coachmr-n. 

As  soon  as  we  returned  to  the  house  we  took 
leave  of  our  hosts,  and  went  back  to  the  Phoenix 
Parle  a  different  way  from  the  one  we  came,  along 
the  banks  of  the  lyiffey^  through  Mr.  Colson's  park, 
in  which  there  were  the  most  splendid  beeches  I 


242 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


have  ever  seen  —  feathering  do^vn  quite  to  the 
ground;  and  farther  along  the  road  and  river 
were  some  lovely  sycamore  -  trees.  "We  drove 
through  the  village  of  Litcaiiy  where  there  were 
fine  decorations,  and  arches  of  bays  and  laurel. 
We  passed  below  The  Strawherry-heds,  which  are 
really  curious  to  see — quite  high  banks  of  them 
— and  numbers  of  people  come  from  Dublin  to 
eat  these  strawberries;  and  there  are  rooms  at 
the  bottom  of  these  banks  on  purpose.  We  were 
home  a  little  after  five. 


On  Board  the  Victoria  and  Albert^ 
in  Locli  Ityan, 

Sunday  J  August  12. 
We  arrived  after  a  dreadfully  rough  though 
veiy  short  passage,  and  ha\'^e  taken  refuge  here. 
To  return  to  Friday.  We  left  the  Phoenix  Par\ 
where  we  spent  so  pleasant  a  time,  at  six  o'clock, 
Lord  Clarendon  and  the  two  elder  children  going 
in  the  carriage  with  us,  and  drove  with  an  escort 
to  the  Dublin  Railway  Station.  The  town  was 
immensely  crowded,  and  the  people  most  enthusi- 
astic. George  met  us  there,  and  we  took  him,  the 
Clarendons,  and  Lord  Lansdowne  and  our  ladies 
into  the  carriage  v/ith  us.     We  arrived  speedily 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


243 


at  Kingstown^  where  there  wore  just  as  many  peo- 
ple and  as  much  enthusiasm  as  on  the  occasion  of 
our  disembarkation.  We  stood  on  the  paddle- 
box  as  we  slowly  steamed  out  of  Kingstowny  amid 
the  cheers  of  thousands  and  thousands,  and  sa- 
lutes from  all  the  ships ;  and  I  waved  my  hand- 
kerchief as  a  parting  acknowledgment  of  their 
loyalty.  We  soon  passed  IlowtJi  and  IrelancTs 
JEye.  The  ship  was  very  steady,  though  the  sea 
was  not  smooth,  and  the  night  thick  and  rainy, 
and  we  feared  a  storm  was  coming  on. 


the 
adies 
ledily 


Saturday  y  August  11. 

We  reached  Belfast  Ilarhor  at  four  o'clock. 
The  wind  had  got  up  amazingly,  and  the  morning 
was  a  very  bad  and  stormy  one.    '         * 

We  had  not  had  a  very  quiet  night  for  sleep- 
ing, though  very  smooth.  The  weather  got  worse 
and  worse,  and  blew  a  real  gale ;  and  it  was  quite 
doubtful  whether  we  could  start  as  we  had  in- 
tended, on  our  return  from  Belfast^  for  Scotland. 

We  saw  the  Mayor  and  General  (Bainbrigg), 
who  had  come  on  board  after  breakfast. 

At  a  quarter  past  one  we  started  with  the  la- 
dies and  gentlemen  for  the  "  Fairy."  Though  we 
had  only  two  minutes'  row  in  the  barge,  there 


2U 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


was  such  a  swell  that  the  getting  in  arid  out,  and 
the  rolling  and  tossing  in  the  boat,  were  very  dis- 
agreeable. We  had  to  keep  in  the  little  pavilion, 
as  the  squalls  were  so  violent  as  to  cover  the 
"  Fairy"  with  spray.  We  passed  between  Ilohj- 
wood  and  Carrickfergus^  celebrated  for  the  first 
landing  of  William  III.  We  reached  Belfast  in 
half  an  hour,  and  fortunatelv  the  sun  came  out. 

We  lay  close  alongside  the  wharf,  where  a  very 
fine  landing-place  was  arranged,  and  where  thou- 
sands were  assembled.  Lord  Londonderiy  came 
on  board,  and  numerous  deputations  with  ad- 
dresses, including  the  Mayor  (whom  I  knighted), 
the  Protestant  Bishop  of  Down  and  clergy,  the 
Catholic  Bishop  Denvir  (an  excellent  and  modest 
man,  the  Sheriff  and  Members  for  the  county,  with 
Lord  Donegal  (to  whom  the  greater  part  of  Bel- 
fast belongs),  Dr.  Henry,  from  the  new  College, 
and  the  Presbyterians  (of  whom  there  are  a  great 
many  here).  Lady  Londonderry  and  her  daugh- 
ter also  came  on  board.  There  was  some  delay 
in  getting  the  gang-board  down,  as  they  had  made 
much  too  large  a  one.  Some  planks  on  board 
were  arranged,  and  we  landed  easily  in  this  way. 
The  landing-place  was  covered  in,  and  very  taste- 
fully decorated.  We  got  into  Lord  Londonder- 
ry's carriage  with  the  two  ladies,  and  Lord  Lon- 


Life  in  the  Ilighlands. 


245 


(londeny  himself  got  on  tlie  rumble  beliind  witL 
the  two  sergeant  footmen,  Renwick  an  I  Birbage, 
both  very  tall,  large  men,  and  the  three  must 
have  been  far  from  comfortable. 

The  town  was  beautifully  decorated  with  flow- 
ers, hangings,  and  very  fine  triumphal  arches,  the 
galleries  full  of  people,  and  the  reception  very 
hearty.  The  people  are  a  mixture  of  nations,  and 
the  female  beauty  had  almost  disappeared. 

I  have  all  along  forgotten  to  say  that  the  favor- 
ite motto  written  up  on  most  of  the  arches,  etc., 
and  in  every  place,  was, "  Cead  mile  failte,"  which 
means  "  A  hundred  thousand  welcomes"  in  Irish, 
which  is  veiy  like  Gaelic ;  it  is,  in  fact,  tJie  lan- 
guage, and  has  existed  in  booJvS  from  the  earliest 
period,  whereas  Gaelic  has  only  been  written  since 
half  a  century,  though  it  was  always  spoken. 
They  often  called  out  "  Cead  mile  failte !"  and  it 
appears  in  every  sort  of  shape. 

Lord  Donegal  rode  on  one  side  of  the  carriage 
and  the  General  on  the  other.  We  stopped  at 
the  Linen  Hall  to  see  the  exhibition  of  the  flax 
and  linen  manufacture.  Lord  Downshire  and 
several  other  gentlemen  received  us  there,  and 
conducted  us  through  the  different  rooms,  where 
we  saw  the  whole  process  in  its  different  stages. 
First  the  plant,  then  the  flax  after  being  steeped, 


i'y 


246 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


then  the  spun  flax ;  lastly,  the  linen,  cambric,  and 
clotli  of  every  sort  and  kind.  It  is  really  very 
interesting  to  see,  and  it  is  wonderful  to  what  a 
state  of  perfection  it  has  been  brought. 

We  got  into  our  carriages  again.  This  time 
Lord  London  deny  did  not  attempt  to  resume  his 
uncomfortable  position. 

We  went  along  through  the  Botanic  Garden^ 
and  stopped  and  got  out  to  look  at  the  new  Col- 
lege which  is  to  be  opened  in  October.  It  is  a 
handsome  building.  We  passed  through  several 
of  the  streets,  and  returned  to  the  place  of  em- 
barkation. Belfast  is  a  line  town,  with  some  good 
buildings — for  instance,  the  Banh  and  BxcJiange 
— and  is  considered  the  Liverpool  and  Manchester 
oi  Ireland.  ;    - 

I  have  forgotten  to  mention  the  Constabulary 
who  are  a  remarkably  fine  body  of  men,  13,000 
in  number  (altogether  in  Ireland)^  all  Irish,  and 
chiefly  Roman  Catholics ;  and  not  one  of  whom, 
during  the  trying  times  last  year,  fraternized  with 
the  rebels.  -  t 

We  left  amid  immense  cheering,  and  reached 
the  "Victoria  and  Albert"  at  half  past  six.  It 
was  blowing  as  hard  as  ever,  and  the  getting 
in  and  out  was  as  disagreeable  as  before.  We 
decided  on  spending  the  night  where  we  were. 


Life  in  the  Ilujhlands. 


2-i7 


unless  tlie  wind  should  drop  by  tliree  or  four 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  Many  bonfires  were 
lighted  on  the  surrounding  hills  and  coasts. 


Sunday  y  August  12. 

The  weather  no  better,  and  as  there  seemed  no 
hope  of  its  improvement,  we  decided  on  starting 
at  two  o'clock,  and  proceeding  either  to  Loch 
Hyan  or  Lanilash.  Lord  Adolj^jhus  read  the 
service  at  half  past  ten,  at  which  the  two  eldest 
children  were  also  present. 

I  intend  to  create  Bertie  "  Earl  of  Dublin,"  as  a 
compliment  to  the  town  and  country ;  he  has  no 
Irish  title,  though  he  is  horn  with  several  Scotch 
ones  (belonging  to  the  heirs  to  the  Scotch  throne, 
and  which  we  have  inherited  from  James  VI.  of 
Scotland  and  I.  of  England) ;  and  this  was  one 
of  my  father's  titles.  ,* 

The  preparations  on  deck  for  the  voyage  were 
not  encouraging ;  the  boats  hoisted  up,  the  ac- 
commodation ladders  drawn  quite  close  up^  eveiy 
piece  of  carpet  removed,  and  every  thing  covered ; 
and,  indeed,  my  worst  fears  were  realized.  We 
started  at  two,  and  I  went  below  and  lay  down 
shortly  after,  and  directly  we  got  out  of  the  har- 
bor the  yacht  began  rolling  for  the  first  three 


V 

ik 

Wf 


i 


i„j  ■  I 


248 


Z^d  zn  the  Highlands. 


quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  way  wliicli  was  dreadful, 
and  there  were  two  rolls,  when  the  waves  broke 
over  the  ship,  which  I  never  shall  forget.  I  got 
gradually  better,  and  at  five  we  entered  ZocJi 
Myan^  truly  thankful  to  be  at  the  end  of  our 
voyage.  Albert  came  down  to  me,  and  then  I 
went  up  on  deck,  and  he  told  me  how  awful  it 
had  been.  The  first  great  wave  which  came  over 
the  ship  threw  every  body  down  in  every  direc- 
tion. Poor  little  Affie*  was  thrown  down  and 
sent  rolling  over  the  deck,  and  was  drenched,  for 
the  deck  was  swimming  with  water.  Albert  told 
me  it  was  quite  frightful  to  see  the  enormous 
waves  rising  like  a  wall  above  the  sides  of  the 
ship.  We  did  not  anchor  so  high  up  in  Loch 
jRyan  as  we  had  done  two  years  ago,  but  it  was 
a  very  safe,  quiet  anchorage,  and  we  were  very 
glad  to  be  there.    Albert  went  on  shore. 


Monday,  Atigiist  IS. 
We  started  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and 
the  yacht  rolled  a  little,  but  the  motion  was  an 
easy  one.  We  were  in  the  Clyde  by  breakfast- 
time,  but  the  day  was  very  bad,  constant  squalls 
hiding  the  scenery.     We  left  Greenock  to  our 

*  Prince  Alfred. 


L\Jq  in  the  Highlands. 


249 


left,  and  proceeded  a  little  way  up  Loch  Goil, 
which  opens  into  Loch  Long,  and  is  very  fine; 
it  seems  extraordinary  to  have  such  deep  water 
in  a  narrow  loch,  and  so  immediately  below  the 
mountains,  which  are  very  rocky.  We  turned 
back  and  went  up  Locli  Long,  w^hich  I  remem- 
bered so  well,  and  which  is  so  beautiful.  We 
let  go  the  anchor  at  Arrochar,  the  head  of  the 
lake,  intending  to  land  and  proceed  to  Loch  Lo- 
mond, where  a  steamer  was  waiting  for  us ;  but 
it  poured  with  rain  most  hopelessly.  We  waited 
an  hour  in  vain,  and  decided  on  stopping  till  after 
luncheon,  and  making  the  attempt  at  three  o'clock. 
We  lunched  and  stepped  into  the  boat,  as  it  had 
cleared  a  little;  but  just  then  it  began  pouring 
again  more  violently  than  before,  and  we  put 
back  much  disappointed ;  but  Albert  persevered, 
and  he  went  off  with  Mr.  Anson,  Sir  James  Clark, 
and  Captain  Kobinson  almost  directly  afterward. 
Just  then  it  cleared,  and  I  felt  so  vexed  that  we 
had  not  gone ;  but  there  have  been  some  terrible 
showers  since.  We  left  Arrochar  a  little  before 
four.  Loch  Long  looking  beautiful  as  we  returned. 

L  2 


\\\ 


!  i'  -B 


Ml 


250 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


PertJiy  Tuesday,  August  14. 
"We  ancliored  yesterday  in  Roseneatli  Bay,  close 
to  Moseneath  —  a  very  pretty  spot,  and  looking 
toward  the  mountains  which  you  see  in  Loch  Goil. 
One  of  them  is  called  "The  Duke  of  Argyll's 
Bowling-green."  Albert  only  returned  soon  after 
eight  o'clock,  having  been  able  to  see  a  good  deal 
of  Loch  Lomond,  and  even  Hoh  Roy'^s  Cave,  in 
spite  of  heavy  showers.  Captain  Beechey  (who 
was  with  us  during  the  whole  voyage  in  '47,  and 
again  the  whole  of  this  one  to  pilot  us),  Captain 
Crispin,  and  Captain  Robinson  (wha  met  us  this 
morning  and  piloted  Albert  in  Loch  Lomond,  and 
did  the  same  for  us  in  '47),  dined  with  us  also, 
and  we  had  much  interesting  conversation  about 
the  fonnation  of  glaciers,  etc.,  in  all  of  which  Cap- 
tain Beechey  (who  is  a  very  intelligent  man,  and 
who  has  been  all  over  the  world)  took  part.  He 
was  with  Sir  Edward  Parry  at  the  North  Pole, 
and  told  us  that  they  had  not  seen  daylight  for 
four  months.  They  heaped  up  snow  over  the 
ship  and  covered  it  in  with  boards  to  keep  the 
cold  off. 


■.L  "fill 


Life  in  the  llighkmck. 


251 


Balmoral^  Wednesday^  August  15. 

It  seems  like  a  dream  to  be  liere  in  our  dear 
Highland  home  again ;  it  certainly  does  not  seem 
as  if  it  were  a  year  since  we  were  here !  Now  I 
must  describe  the  doings  of  yesterday.  We  em- 
barked on  board  the  "  Fairy"  at  a  quarter  to  nine 
o'clock,  and  proceeded  up  the  Clyde  in  pouring 
rain  and  high  wind,  and  it  was  very  stormy  till 
after  we  had  passed  Greenock.  We  steamed  past 
Port  Glasgoiv^  then  came  Dumharton  and  Mr- 
sMne.  The  river  narrows  and  winds  extraordi- 
narily here,  and  you  do  not  see  Glasgoio  till  you 
are  quite  close  upon  it.  As  we  approached,  the 
banks  were  lined  with  people,  either  on  estrades 
or  on  the  sea-shore,  and  it  was  amusing  to  see  all 
those  on  the  shore  take  flight,  often  too  late,  as  the 
water  bounded  up  from  the  swell  caused  by  the 
steamer.. 

The  weather,  which  had  been  dreadful,  cleared 
up  just  as  we  reached  Glasgow,  about  eleven,  and 
continued  fine  for  the  remainder  of  the  day.  Sev- 
eral addresses  were  presented  on  board,  first  by 
the  Lord  Provost,  who  was  knighted  (Colonel 
Gordon's  sword  being  used),  then  one  from  the 
county,  the  clergy  (Established  Church  and  Free 
Kirk),  and  from  the  Houses  of  Commerce.     We 


m 


,  ift 


252 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


ym 


(li 


III 


landed  immediately  after  this :  tlie  landing-place 
was  very  handsomely  decorated.  We  then  enter- 
ed our  carriage  with  the  two  eldest  children,  the 
two  others  follomng.  Mr.  Alison  (the  celebrated 
historian,  who  is  the  Sheriff)  rode  on  one  side  of 
the  carriage,  and  General  Kiddell  (the  Command- 
er of  the  Forces  in  Scotland)  on  the  other.  The 
crowds  assembled  were  quite  enormous,  but  excel- 
lent order  was  kept,  and  they  were  very  enthusi- 
astic. Mr.  Alison  said  that  there  were  500,000 
people  out.  The  town  is  a  handsome  one,  with 
fine  streets  built  in  stone,  and  many  fine  buildings 
and  churches.  "We  passed  over  a  bridge  com- 
manding an  extensive  view  down  fiwo  quays, 
which  Albert  said  was  very  like  Paris.  There 
are  many  large  shops  and  warehouses,  and  the 
shipping  is  immense. 

We  went  up  to  the  old  Cathedral,  where  Prin- 
cipal Mac  Farlane,  a  veiy  old  man,  received  us,  and 
directed  our  attention,  as  we  walked  through  the 
church  gates,  to  an  immensely  high  chimney,  the 
highest,  I  believe,  in  existence,  which  belongs  to 
one  of  the  manufactories.  The  Cathedral  is  a 
very  fine  one,  the  choir  of  which  is  fitted  up  as  a 
Presbyterian  Church.  We  were  shown  the  crypt 
and  former  burial-place  of  the  bishops,  which  is  in 
a  very  high  state  of  preservation.     The  architec- 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


253 


ture  is  beautiful.  It  is  in  this  crypt  that  the 
famous  scene  in  liob  Roy  is  laid,  where  Rob  Roy- 
gives  Frank  Osbaldistone  warning  that  he  is  in 
danger.  There  is  an  old  monument  of  St.  Kenti- 
gern,  commonly  called  St.  Mungo,  the  founder  of 
the  Cathedral.  We  re-entered  our  carriages  and 
went  to  the  University,  an  ancient  building,  and 
which  Jias  produced  many  great  and  learned  men. 
Here  we  got  out  and  received  an  address.  We 
only  stopped  a  few  minutes,  and  then  went  on 
again  toward  the  Excliange,  in  front  of  which  is 
Marochetti's  equestrian  statue  of  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  very  like  and  beautifully  executed. 
We  got  out  at  the  railway  station,  and  started  al- 
most immediately. 

We  passed  Stirling  in  the  distance,  and  a  little 
before  four  we  reached  Perth,  where  the  people 
were  very  friendly.  We  took  the  four  children  in 
our  carriage  and  drove  straight  to  the  *'  George 
Inn,"  whore  we  had  the  same  rooms  that  we  had 
last  time. 

Albert  went  out  immediately  to  see  the  prison, 
and  at  six  we  drove  together  along  the  London 
ICoad  (as  they  rather  strangely  call  it)  toward 
Moncmeffe.  The  view  was  perfectly  beautiful, 
and  is  the  finest  of  Perth  and  the  grand  bridge 
over  the  Tay, 


254 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


Wednesday^  August  15. 
At  a  quarter  to  eight  o'clock  we  started.  The 
two  boys  and  Vicky  were  in  the  carriage  with  us, 
Alice  followed  with  the  ladies.  It  was  a  long 
journey,  but  through  very  beautiful  scenery.  We 
saw  the  Grampians  as  we  left  Perth.  We  first 
changed  horses  at  Blairgowrie,  15  miles.  Then 
came  a  very  long  stage  of  20  miles,  to  the  Spittal 
of  Glensliee.  We  first  passed  the  house  of  a  Lieut.- 
Colonel  Clark  Rattray,  called  Craig  Hall,  over- 
hanging a  valley  or  glen  above  which  we  drove, 
and  after  this  came  into  completely  wild  High- 
land scenery,  with  barren  rocky  hills,  through 
which  the  road  winds  to  the  S;piUal  of  Glensliee, 
which  can  scarcely  be  called  a  village,  for  it  con- 
sists of  only  an  inn.  and  two  or  three  cottages. 
We  got  out  at  the  inn,  where  we  found  Mr.  Far- 
quharson  and  his  son,  and  some  of  his  men.  Here 
we  had  some  luncheon,  and  then  set  off  again. 
The  next  stage  of  15  miles  to  Gastleton  is  over  a 
very  bad,  and  at  night  positively  dangerous  road, 
through  wild,  grand  scenery,  with  very  abrupt 
turns  and  steep  ascents.  One  sharp  turn  is  call- 
ed Tlie  DeviUs  Elboio.  The  Farquharson  men 
joined  us  again  here,  some  having  gone  on  before, 
and  others  having  followed  from  the  inn,  skipping 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


255 


over  stones  and  rocks  witli  tlie  rapidity  and  light- 
ness peculiar  to  Highlanders.  They  remained 
with  us  till  we  were  able  to  trot  on  again. 

We  dro  vq  through  a  very  fine  pass  called  Cai7*n 
Wall,  and  were  overtaken  by  a  heavy  shower. 
When  we  reached  Castleton  the  day  had  cleared, 
and  we  were  able  to  oj)en  the  carriage  again. 
Here  we  were  met  by  Sir  Alexander  Duff  and  the 
Duke  of  Leeds  at  the  head  oi  their  men.  Lady 
Duff,  Mr.  and  Lady  Agnes  Duff,  Miss  Farquhar- 
son,  and  several  of  the  children,  and  the  Duchess 
of  Leeds,  came  up  to  the  carnage.  The  drive 
from  Castleton  to  Balmoral,  particularly  the  beau- 
tiful part  from  the  JBallocli  Buie,  was  well  known 
to  us,  and  it  was  a  great  pleasure  to  see  it  all 
again  in  its  beauty.  Grant  had  met  us  at  the 
Spittal  of  GlensJiee,  and  ridden  the  whole  way 
with  us.  At  the  door  at  Balmoral  were  Mac- 
kay,  who  was  playing,  and  MacdonaH  in  full 
dress.    It  was  about  four  when  we  arrived. 


■ 


256 


Life  in  the  Highlands, 


Yachting  Excursion. 


M»  t 


On  Board  the  Victoria  andAlhert^ 

Dartmouth, 

Thursday,  August  20,  IMQt. 

We  steamed  past  tlie  various  places  on  the 
beautiful  coast  oi  Devonshire  wliicli  we  had  passed 
three  years  ago — Beaton,  Sidmouth,  of^  which  we 
stopped  for  ten  minutes,  Axmouth,  Teignmouth, 
etc.,  until  we  came  to  Babhicornbe,  a  small  bay, 
where  we  remained  an  hour.  It  is  a  beautiful 
spot,  which  before  we  had  only  passed  at  a  dis- 
tance. Red  cliffs  and  rocks,  with  wooded  hills 
like  Baly,  and  reminding  one  of  a  ballet  or  play 
where  nymphs  are  to  appear — such  rocks  and 
grottoes,  with  the  deepest  sea,  on  which  there  was 
not  a  ripple.  We  intended  to  disembark  and 
walk  up  the  hill;  but  it  came  on  to  rain  very 
much,  and  w^e  could  not  do  so.  We  tried  to 
sketch  the  part  looking  toward  Torhay.  I  never 
saw  our  good  children  looking  better,  or  in  high- 
er spirits.  I  contrived  to  give  Vicky  a  little  les- 
son by  making  her  read  in  her  English  history. 

We  proceeded  on  our  course  again  at  half  past 
one  o'clock,  and  saw  Torquay  very  plainly,  which 
is  very  fine.     The  sea  looked  so  stormy  and  the 


Life  in  the  Highlands, 


257 


I'fc 


weather  became  so  tliick  that  it  was  thought  best 
to  give  up  Plymouth  (for  the  third  time),  and  to 
put  into  that  beautiful  Dartmoutli^  and  We  accord- 
ingly did  so,  in  pouring  rain,  the  deck  swimming 
with  water,  and  all  of  us  with  umbrellas,  the 
children  being  most  anxious  to  see  every  thing. 
Notwithstanding  the  rain,  this  place  is  lovely, 
with  its  wooded  rocks,  and  chm'ch,  and  castle  at 
the  entrance.  It  puts  me  much  in  mind  of  the 
beautiful  Uliine^  and  its  fine  ruined  castles,  and 
the  LurleL 

I  am  now  below  writing,  and  crowds  of  boats 
are  surrounding  us  on  all  sides. 


Plymoutli  Harho7%  ) 

FridayyAugust2\.] 
We  got  under  weigh  by  half  past  six  o'clock, 
and  on  looking  out  we  saw  the  sea  so  calm  and 
blue,  and  the  sun  so  bright  that  we  determined 
to  get  up.  It  was  a  very  fine  day,  but  there 
was  a  great  deal  of  swell.  At  length,  at  half 
past  nine,  we  entered  the  splendid  harbor  of 
Plymouth^  and  anchored  again  below  Mount  Edg- 
cumbe^  which,  with  its  beautiful  trees,  including 
pines,  growing  doAvn  into  the  sea,  looks  more  love- 
ly than  ever.     I  changed  my  dress,  and  read  in- 


m 


258 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


numerable  letters  and  dispatclies,  and  then  went 
on  deck  and  saw  the  aiithorities — the  Admirals 
and  Generals.  I  did  Vicky's  lessons  and  WTote ; 
and  at  half  past  one  we  went  on  board  the  "Fairy" 
(leaving  the  children  on  board  the  "  Victoria  and 
Albert"),  with  all  our  ladies  and  gentlemen,  as 
well  as  Sir  James  Clark,  who  has  joined  us  here. 
W:  steamed  up  the  Tamar,  going  first  a  little  way 
up  the  St.  Germans  River,  which  has  very  prettily 
wooded  banks.  Trematon  Castle,  to  the  right, 
which  belongs  to  Bertie  as  Duke  of  Cornwall,  and 
Jats  to  the  left,  are  extremely  pretty.  We 
stopped  here,  and  afterward  turned  back  and 
went  up  the  Tamar,  which  at  first  seemed  flat,  but 
as  we  proceeded  the  scenery  became  quite  beauti- 
ful— richly  wooded  hills,  the  trees  growing  dow^n 
into  the  water,  and  the  river  winding  so  much  as 
to  have  the  effect  of  a  lake.  In  this  it  reminded 
me  so  much  of  going  up  the  Wiine,  though  I  don't 
think  the  river  resembles  the  Wiine.  Albert 
thought  it  like  the  Danuhe.  The  finest  parts  be- 
gin about  Saltasliy  which  is  a  small  but  prettily 
built  town.  To  the  right  as  you  go  up  all  is  un- 
English  looking ;  a  little  farther  on  is  the  mouth 
of  the  Tavy :  here  the  river  becomes  very  beauti- 
ful. We  passed  numbers  of  mines  at  work.  Far- 
ther on,  to  the  left,  we  came  to  Pentillie  Castle, 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


259 


situated  on  a  height  most  beautifully  wooded 
down  to  the  water's  edge,  and  the  river  winding 
rapidly  above  and  below  it.  Albert  said  it  re- 
minded him  of  the  situation  of  Greinhiirg^  on  the 
Danube,  Not  much  farther  on  we  came  to  the 
picturesque  little  village  and  landing-place  of 
Cothele,  at  the  foot  of  a  thickly  wooded  bank, 
with  a  valley  on  one  side.  Here  the  river  is  very 
narrow.  We  landed,  and  drove  up  a  steep  hill, 
under  fine  trees,  to  the  very  curious  old  House  of 
CotJiele,  where  we  got  out  of  the  carriage.  It  is 
most  curious  in  every  way,  as  it  stands  in  the 
same  state  as  it  was  in  the  time  of  Henry  VH., 
and  is  in  great  preservation — the  old  rooms  hung 
with  arras,  etc.         - 

We  drove  down  another  way,  under  beautiful 
trees  and  above  the  fine  valley ;  embarked,  and 
proceeded  down  the  river.  The  evening  was 
beautiful,  the  sun  bright,  and  the  sky  and  sea  so 
blue.  We  arrived  just  too  late  for  the  launch  of 
the  frigate  "  Thetis."  It  reminded  me  so  much 
of  when  we  were  here  three  years  ago,  as  we  ap- 
proached our  yacht,  surrounded  by  myriads  of 
boats,  and  had  to  row  through  them  in  our  barge. 
We  returned  at  half  past  five.  The  evening  was 
delightful — clear,  calm,  and  cloudless,  but  a  good 
deal  of  noise  in  the  boats  around  us.    Lord  and 


'^'W 


260 


Life  in  the  IligJdands. 


Lady  Mount  Edgcumbe  and  Sir  James  Clark 
dined  witli  us. 


iiH       h.- 


r 


Plymouth  J  Saturday,  August  22. 
Albeit  Avas  up  at  six  o'clock,  as  he  was  to  go 
to  Dartmoor  Forest.  At  ten  I  went  in  the  barge 
with  the  two  children,  the  ladies.  Baron  Stockmar, 
and  Lord  Alfred  Paget,  and  landed  at  Mount  Edg- 
ciimhey  where  we  were  received  by  Lady  Mount 
Edgcumbe,  her  two  boys,  her  sister  and  nieces,  and 
beyond  the  landing-place  by  Lord  Mount  Edg- 
cumbe. There  were  crowds  where  we  landed,  and 
I  feel  so  shy  and  put  ^.ut  without  Albert.  I  got 
into  a  carriage  with  the  children  and  Lady  Mount 
Edgcumbe — Lord  Mount  Edgcumbe  going  before 
us  and  the  others,  folio  wing — and  took  a  lovely 
drive  along  the  road  which  overhangs  the  bay, 
commanding  such  beautiful  views  on  all  sides,  and 
going  under  and  by  such  fine  trees.  We  had  been 
there  three  years  ago ;  but  it  is  always  a  pleasure 
to  see  it  again.  The  day  veiy  hot  and  a  little 
hazy.  We  came  to  the  house  at  eleven.  The 
children  went  with  their  governess  and  the  other 
children  into  the  shade,  and  had  luncheon  i :  the 
house,  and  I  remained  in  the  gallery — a  very  pret- 
ty room,  with  some  fine  pictures,  and  with  a  door 


Lifd  in  the  Uighlanda. 


261 


little 

The 

other 

the 

pret- 

door 


opening  on  the  garden,  and  commanding  a  lovely 
little  bit  of  sea  view,  which  I  tried  to  sketch.  A 
little  after  twelve  we  returned  to  the  yacht,  which 
had  been  beset  with  boats  ever  since  six  in  the 
morning.  Albert  returned  safely  to  me  at  one 
o'clock,  much  pleased  with  his  trip,  and  said  that 
Dartmoor  Forest  was  like  Scotland. 

At  two  we  went  with  our  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
and  without  the  children,  again  to  the  landing- 
place  at  Mount  EdgGumhe^  where  we  were  re- 
ceived as  before,  and  cliove  up  to  the  house. 
There  are  some  of  the  finest  and  tallest  chestnut- 
trees  in  existence  hero,  and  the  beech-trees  grow 
very  peculiarly  —  quite  tall  and  straight  —  the 
branches  growing  upward.  We  walked  about 
the  gallery,  and  looked  into  Lady  Mount  Edg- 
cumbe's  little  room  at  one  end  of  it,  which  is 
charming,  and  full  of  pretty  little  things  which 
she  has  collected,  and  then  we  took  luncheon  in 
a  room  where  there  are  some  fine  portraits  by 
Sir  Joshua  Keynolds.  They  are  all  of  the  Mount 
Edgcumbe  family,  one  of  whom  was  his  great 
patron.  Sir  Joshua  was  born  a  few  miles  from 
Plymouth.  There  are  in  the  same  room  pictures 
by  him  when  he  first  began  to  paint,  which  have 
kept  their  color ;  then  Avhen  he  made  experiments 
—  and  these  are  quite  faded ;  and  again  of  his 


2G2 


Ldjc  in  the  Highlands. 


works  when  lie  discovered  his  mistakes,  and  the 
color  of  his  pictures  is  then  beautiful.  We  walked 
about  the  garden  near  the  house,  and  then  drove 
to  the  "  Kiosk,"  by  beautiful  stone  pines  and  pi- 
nasters, which  interested  Albert  veiy  much,  and 
put  me  so  much  in  mind  of  Mr.  Lear's  drawings. 
The  view  from  this  "  Kiosk,"  which  is  very  high 
over  the  sea  and  town,  is  most  beautiful,  and  the 
sea  was  like  glass,  not  a  ripple  to  be  seen.  We 
walked  down  a  veiy  pretty  road  or  path  through 
the  woods  and  trees  till  we  met  the  carriage,  and 
we  drove  along  that  beautiful  road,  which  is  said 
to  be  a  littl'3  like  the  Cornice,  overhanging  the 
sea,  down  to  the  place  of  embarkation,  where  we 
took  leave  of  them  all,  and  returned  to  our  yacht 
by  half  past  four.  Poor  Lord  Mount  Edgcumbe 
is  in  such  a  sad,  helpless  state,  but  so  patient  and 
cheerful.  We  went  on  board  just  to  fetch  the 
children,  and  then  on  to  the  "  Fairy,"  and  steamed 
in  her  round  the  harbor,  or  rather  bay,  in  which 
there  are  such  pretty  spots ;  into  the  Cat  Water, 
from  whence  we  rowed  in  one  of  the  barges  a  lit- 
tle way  up  the  river  to  look  at  Saltram,  Lord  Mor- 
ley's ;  after  that  back  to  the  "  Fairy,"  went  in  her 
into  Mill  Bay,  Sutton  Pool,  and  Stoneliouse,  and 
returned  to  the  yacht  by  half  past  six. 


Life  in  the  Ili'jhlands. 


263 


Iti  Guernsey  Bay^  off  St.  Pierre^  Guernsey^  \ 
Sunday  y  August  23.  j 

On  waking,  tlie  morning  was  so  lovely  that  we 
could  not  help  regretting  tliat  we  could  not  delay 
our  trip  a  little,  by  one  day  at  least,  as  tlie  Coun- 
cil which  was  to  have  been  on  the  25th  is  now  on 
the  29th.  We  thought,  however,  we  could  do 
nothing  but  sail  for  Torhciy  at  half  past  nine,  and 
for  Osborne  on  Monday.  While  dressing,  I  kept 
thinking  whether  we  could  not  manage  to  see  Fal- 
mouthy  or  something  or  other.  Albert  thought 
we  might  perhaps  manage  to  see  one  of  the  Chan- 
nel Islands^  and  accordingly  he  sent  for  Lord  Adol- 
phus  Fitzclarence,  and  it  was  settled  that  we 
should  go  to  Guernsey y  which  delighted  me,  as  I 
had  so  long  wished  to  see  it.  The  day  splendid. 
The  General  and  Admiral  came  on  board  to  take 
leave.  Sir  J.  West  is  the  Admiral,  and  General 
Murray  the  General ;  and  at  about  half  past  nine 
we  set  off,  and  the  sea  the  whole  way  was  as  calm 
as  it  was  in  '43.  Plymouth  is  beautiful,  and  we 
shall  always  be  delighted  to  return  there. 

For  two  hours  we  were  in  expectation  of  seeing 
land;  but  it  was  very  hazy,  and  they  did  not 
know  where  we  were  till  about  six,  when  land 
was  seen  by  the  "  Fairy,"  who  came  to  report  it, 


26i 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


and  then  all  the  other  vessels  went  on  before  us. 
As  we  approached  we  were  struck  by  the  beauty 
of  the  Guernsey  coa«t,  in  which  there  are  sev€iral 
rocky  bays,  and  the  town  oi  St.  Pierre  is  very  pic- 
turesquely built,  down  to  the  water's  edge,  'i'ou 
see  SarJc  (or  Sercq)  as  you  enter  the  harbor  to  the 
right,  and  farther  on,  close  opposite  St  Pierre,  two 
islands  close  together — Herm  and  Jethou.  The. 
bay,  with  these  fine  islands,  is  really  most  curious. 
We  anchored  at  seven  immediately  opposite  St 
Pierre,  and  with  the  two  islands  on  the  other  side 
of  us.  We  dined  at  eight,  and  found  on  going  on 
deck  the  whole  town  illuminated,  which  had  a 
very  pretty  effect,  and  must  have  been  done  very 
quickly,  for  they  had  no  idea  of  our  coming.  It 
is  built  like  a  foreign  town.  The  people  speak 
mostly  French  among  themselves. 


.  Augtist  24. 

St.  Pierre  is  veiy  picturesque-looking,  with  very 
high,  bright-colored  houses  built  down  almost  into 
the  sea.  The  College  and  Church  are  very  con- 
spicuous buildings.  This  island  with  its  bold 
point,  and  the  little  one  of  Cornet  with  a  sort  of 
castle  on  it  (close  to  which  we  were  (inchored), 
and  the  three  islands  of  E^rm,  Jethoiij  and  Sarlc, 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


265 


witli  innumerable  rocks,  are  really  very  fine  and 
peculiar,  especially  as  tliey  then  were  in  bright 
sunlight.  We  both  sketched,  and  at  a  quarter  to 
nine  got  into  our  barge  with  our  ladies.  The  pier 
and  shore  were  lined  with  crowds  of  people,  and 
with  ladies  dressed  in  white,  singing  "  God  save 
the  Queen,"  and  strewing  the  ground  with  flow- 
ers. We  walked  to  our  carriage,  preceded  by  Gen- 
eral Napier,  brother  to  Sir  Charles  (in  Scinde)^  a 
very  singular-looking  old  man,  tall  and  thin,  with 
an  aquiline  nose,  piercing  eyes,  and  white  mus- 
taches and  hair.  The  people  were  extremely  well- 
behaved  and  friendly,  and  received  us  very  warm- 
ly as  we  drove  through  the  narrow  streets,  w^hich 
were  decorated  with  flowers  and  flags,  and  lined 
with  the  Guernsey  militia,  2000  stroi^g,  YAth  their 
several  bands.  Some  of  the  militia  were  mountedo 
The  vegetation  beyond  the  town  is  exceedingly- 
fine,  and  the  evergreens  and  flowers  most  abund- 
ant. The  streets  and  hills  steep,  and  the  view 
from  the  fort,  which  is  very  high  (and  where  Gen- 
eral Napier  presented  me  with  the  keys),  is  ex- 
tremely beautiful.  You  look  over  the  Bay  of 
Guernsey ,  and  see  opposite  to  you  the  islands  of 
Herm^  Jetliou^  and  Sim%  with  Alderney,  and  the 
coast  of  France^  Cape  de  la  Hague ^  to  the  left  in 
the  distance,  and  to  the  right  in  the  distance,  Jer- 


iiril 


266 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


tu- 


m 


sey.  The  island  appears  very  flourishing.  In  the 
town  they  speak  English,  but  in  the  country- 
French,  and  this  is  the  same  in  all  the  islands. 
They  belonged  to  the  Duchy  of  Normandy,  and 
have  been  in  oui*  possession  ever  since  William 
the  Conqueror's  time.  King  John  was  the  last 
of  their  sovereiojns  who  visited  them.  We  drove 
along  the  pier,  and  then  embarked  amid  great 
cheering.  It  was  all  admirably  managed;  the 
people  are  extremely  loyaL 

We  got  under  weigh  a  little  before  one,  and  in 
about  an  hour  and  a  half  we  came  close  to  Alder- 
7iej/,  seeing  all  the 'time  the  French  coast,  Cape  de 
la  Hague  very  plainly  to  our  right,  and  leaving 
the  Casquets  Lights  to  our  left.  Alderney  is  quite 
different  to  all  the  other  islands,  excessively  rocky 
and  barren,  and  the  rocks  in  and  under  the  sea 
are  most  frightful. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


267 


n  the 
untry 
Lands. 
/•,  and 
illiam 
e  last 
drove 
great 
1;  tlie 

and  in 
Alder- 
Jape  de 
jcaving 
quite 
rocky 
lie  sea 


Second  Yachting  Excuesion. 

On  Board  the  Victoria  and  Albert, 
'  Off  St.  HelierSy  Jersey, 
Wednesday,  Seinemher  2, 1846. 
At  a  quarter  past  seven  o'clock  we  set  off  with 
Vicky,  Bertie,  Lady  Jocelyn,  Miss  Kerr,  Mdlle. 
Gruner,  Lord  Spencer,  ]^ord  Palraerston,  and  Sir 
James  Clark  (Mr.  Anson  and  Colonel  Grey  being 
on  board  the  "  Black  Eagle"),  and  embarked  at 
Osborne  Pier.  There  was  a  good  deal  of  swell. 
It  was  fine,  but  veiy  cold  at  first.  At  twelve 
we  saw  Alderney,  and  between  t^vo  and  three 
got  into  the  Alderney  Pace,  where  there  was  a 
great  deal  of  rolling,  but  not  for  long.  We  pass- 
ed between  Alderney  and  tlie  French  coast — 
Cape  de  la  Hague — and  saw  the  other  side  of 
Alderney;  and  then,  later,  Sarlc,  Gi.evnmy,  and 
the  other  islands.  After  passing  the  Alderney 
Pace  it  became  quite  smooth ;  and  then  Bertie 
put  on  his  sailor's  dress,  which  was  beautifully 
made  by  the  man  on  board  who  makes  for  our 
sailors.  When  he  appeared,  the  ofiicers  and  sail- 
ors, who  were  all  assembled  on  deck  to  see  him, 
cheered,  and  seemed  delighted  with  him. 


268 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


The  coast  of  Jersey  is  very  beautiful,  and  we 
had  to  go  nearly  all  round,  in  order  to  get  to  St. 
Heliers.  We  first  passed  the  point  called  Rond- 
nez^  then  Grosnez  \vitli  a  tower,  St.  OueiUs  Bay^ 
La  Moccttj  a  curious  old  tov^er  on  a  rock,  and  then 
Brelad^s  Bay.  The  red  cliffs  and  rocks,  with 
the  setting  sun  'gilding  and  lighting  them  all  up, 
were  beautiful.  At  last,  at  a  quarter  to  seven, 
we  arrived  in  this  fine  large  bay  o^  St.Auhin,  in 
which  lies  St.  Heliers  ;  and  after  dinner  we  went 
on  deck  to  see  the  illumination  and  the  bonfires. 


\X 


Off  St.  Hellers  J  Thursday  J  September  ^, 
A  splendid  day.  I  never  saw  a  more  beautiful 
deep  blue  sea,  quite  like  Naples  ;  and  Albert  said 
that  this  fine  bay  of  St.  Aubm,  in  which  we  lie, 
really  is  like  Naples.  Noirmont  Point  terminates 
in  a  low  tower  to  our  left,  with  St.  Aiibin  and  a 
tower  in  a  rock  in  front  of  it ;  farther  in,  and  to 
our  right,  Elizahetlh  Castle^  a  picturesque  fort  on 
a  rock,  with  the  town  of  St.  Heliers  behind  it. 

The  coloring  and  the  effect  of  light  Avere  inde- 
scribably beautiful.  We  got  into  our  barge  with 
our  ladles  and  gentlemen,  and  then  went  on  board 
the  "  Fairy ,'^  until  we  were  close  to  the  harbor, 
and  then  we  got  into  tlie  barge  again.     We  land- 


:3---fS{Q?s^rf-  « 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


269 


ed  at  the  stairs  of  the  Victoria  Harl)0)\  amid  the 
cheers  of  the  numberless  crowds,  guns  firing,  and 
bands  playing ;  were  received,  as  at  Guernsey.,  by 
all  the  ladies  of  the  town,  very  gayly  dressed,  who, 
strewing  flowers  on  our  way,  conducted  us  to  a 
canopy,  where  I  received  the  address  of  the  States 
and  of  the  militia. 

We  then  got  into  our  carriage  and  drove  along 
the  pier.  Colonel  Le  Couteur,  my  militia  aid-de- 
camp, riding  by  my  side,  with  other  officers,  and 
by  Albert's  side  Colonel  Le  Breton,  commanding 
the  militia,  who,  5000  strong,  lined  the  streets, 
and  were  stationed  along  the  pier — the  States 
walking  in  front.  The  crowds  were  immense,  but 
every  thing  in  excellent  order,  and  the  people 
most  enthusiastic,  though  not  more  so  than  the- 
good  Guernsey  people ;  the  town  is  much  larger, 
and  they  had  much  longer  time  for  preparations ; 
the  decorations  and  arches  of  flowers  were  beauti- 
fully done,  and  there  were  numberless  kind  in- 
scriptions. All  the  country  people  here  speak 
French,  and  so  did  the  police  who  w^alked  near 
us.  It  was  a  very  gratifying  reception.  There 
was  a  seat  in  one  of  the  streets  filled  by  French- 
women from  Grouvilley  curiously  dressed  with 
white  handkerchiefs  on  their  heads.  After  pass- 
ing through  several  streets  we  drove  up  to  the 


^rnP 


270 


lii 


Life  in  the  Ilighlands. 


liiiipl 


Government  House,  but  did  not  get  out.  General 
Gibbs,  tlie  Governor,  is  very  infirm. 

We  then  proceeded  at  a  quicker  pace  —  the 
walking  procession  having  ceased — through  the 
interior  of  the  island,  which  is  extremely  pretty 
and  very  green  —  orchards  without  end,  as  at 
Mayence,  We  passed  the  curious  old  tower  of 
La  Hougue  Bie,  of  very  ancient  date,  and  went 
to  the  Castle  of  Mont  Orgueil,  in  Grouville  Bay, 
very  beautifully  situated,  completely  overhanging 
the  sea,  and  where  Kobert,  Duke  of  Normandy, 
son  of  WiiljaUi  the  Conqueror,  is  said  to  have 
lived.  We  walked  part  of  the  way  up,  and  from 
one  of  the  batteries,  where  no  guns  are  now 
mounted,  you  command  the  bay,  and  the  French 
coast  is  distinctly  seen,  only  13  miles  distant. 
The  people  are  very  proud  that  Mont  Orgueil 
had  never  been  taken;  but  I  have  since  learned 
it  was  taken  by  surprise  and  held  for  a  few  days ; 
Guernsey,  however,  never  was  taken. 

We  then  returned  to  our  carriage,  and  proceed- 
ed to  the  pier  by  a  shorter  road,  and  through  a 
different  part  of  the  town.  There  is  a  peculiar 
elm-tree  in  the  island,  which  is  very  pretty,  and 
unlike  any  other — the  leaf  and  the  way  it  grows 
almost  resembling  the  acacia.  The  crowd  was  very 
great  and  the  he|it  very  intense  in  going  back. 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


271 


"We  re-embarked  in  the  barge,  but  had  only  to 
go  a  few  yards  to  the  "  Fairy."  The  situation  of 
the  harbor  is  very  fine ;  and  crowned  with  the 
fort,  and  covered  by  numbers  of  people,  was  like 
an  amphitheatre.  The  heat  of  the  sun,  and  the 
glare,  had  made  me  so  ill  and  giddy  that  I  re- 
mained below  the  greater  part  of  the  afternoon, 
and  Albert  went  out  for  an  hour  on  the  "  Fairy." 


Falmouth  Harbor^  Friday^  Sept.  4. 
A  beautiful  day  again,  with  the  same  brilliant- 
ly blue  sea.  At  a  quarter  to  eight  o'clock  we  got 
under  weigh.  There  was  a  great  deal  of  motion 
at  first,  and  for  the  greater  part  of  the  day  the 
ship  pitched,  but  getting  up  the  sails  steadied  her. 
From  ^YQ  o'clock  it  became  quite  smooth ;  at  half 
past  five  we  saw  land,  and  at  seven  we  entered 
Falmoutlh  Harhor,  where  we  were  immediately 
surrounded  by  boats.  The  evening  was  beauti- 
ful, and  the  sea  as  smooth  as  glass,  and  without 
even  a  ripple.  The  calmest  night  possible,  with 
a  beautiful  moon,  when  we  went  on  deck ;  every 
now  and  then  the  splashing  of  oars  and  the  hum 
of  voices  were  heard ;  but  they  were  the  only 
sounds,  unlike  the  constant  dashing  of  the  sea 
against  the  vessel,  which  we  heard  all  the  time 
we  were  at  Jersey, 


I 


272 


IJJe  in  Ihe  Highlands. 


M 


'mi 


..} 


Moimfs  Bay.  Cornwall, 
Saturday,  September  5. 
At  eight  o'clock  we  left  Falmoiitli  and  pro- 
ceeded along  tlie  coast  of  Cornwall,  whicli  be- 
comes bold  and  inigged  beyond  the  Lizard  Point 
and  as  one  approaches  Land's  Mid.  At  about 
twelve  we  passed  Land'' 8  Mid,  which  is  very  fine 
and  rocky,  the  view  from  thence  opening  beauti- 
fully. We  passed  quite  close  by  the  Loiigships, 
some  rocks  on  which  stands  a  light-house.  The 
sea  was  unusually  smooth  for  the  LamVs  Mid. 
We  went  l)eyond  a  point  with  some  rocks  near  it, 
called  The  Brisons,  and  then  steamed  back :  the 
famous  Botallack  mine  lies  here.  A  little  before 
two  we  landed  in  this  beautiful  Mount's  Bay, 
close  below  St.  Michael'' s  Mount,  which  is  very 
fine.  When  the  bay  first  ojDened  to  our  view  the 
sun  was  lighting  up  this  beautiful  castle,  so  pecul- 
iarly built  on  a  lofty  rock,  and  which  forms  an 
island  at  hisrh  water. 


i 


'■■"H.-.'-.af-i^i... 


Life  in  the  Ilvjhlands. 


273 


an 


In  entering  tlie  hay  we  passed  the  small  village 
of  Mousehole  and  the  to^vn  of  Penzance^  which  is 
prettily  situated,  and  one  mile  and  a  half  from 
St.  MicliaeVs  Mount.  The  day  brightened  just 
as  we  arrived,  and  the  sea  again  became  so  bhie. 
Soon  after  our  arrival  we  anchored ;  the  crowd 
of  boats  was  beyond  every  thing ;  numbers  of 
Cornish  pilcher  fishermen,  in  their  curious  large 
boats,  kept  going  round  and  round ,  and  then  an- 
chored, besides  many  other  boats  full  of  people. 
They  are  a  very  noisy,  talkative  race,  and  speak  a 
kind  of  English  hardly  to  be  understood. 

During  our  voyage  I  was  able  to  give  Vicky 
her  lessons.  At  three  o'clock  we  all  got  into  the 
barge,  including  the  children  and  Mdlle.  Gruner, 
their  governess,  and  ro^ved  through  an  avenue  of 
boats  of  all  descriptions  to  the  "  Fairy,"  where  we 
went  on  board.  The  getting  in  and  out  of  the 
barge  was  no  easy  task.  Tliere  was  a  good  deal 
of  swell,  and  the  "  Fairy"  herself  rolled  amazingly. 
.We  steamed  round  the  bay  to  look  at  St.  MicliaeVs 
Mount  from  tlie  other  side,  which  is  even  more 
beautiful,  and  then  went  on  to  Penzance.  Albert 
landed  near  Penzance  with  all  the  gentlemen  ex- 
cept Lord  Spencer  (^^'ho  is  most  agreeable,  effi- 
cient, and  useful  at  sea,  being  a  captain  of  the 
Navy)  and  Colonel  Grey,  and  went  to  see  the 

M2 


274 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


smelting  of  copper  and  tin,  and  tlie  works  in  ser- 
pentine stone  at  Penzance.  We  remained  here  a 
little  wliile  ^\  itliout  going  on,  in  order  to  sketch, 
and  returned  to  the  "  Victoria  and  Albert"  by 
half  past  four,  the  boats  crowding  round  us  in  all 
directions ;  and  when  Bertie  showed  himself  the 
people  shouted — "  Three  cheers  for  the  Duke  of 
Cornwall !"  Albert  returned  a  little  before  beven, 
much  gratified  by  what  he  had  seen,  and  bringing 
home  specimens  of  the  serpentine  stone. 


Mounts  Bay^  Sunday,  September  6. 
A  hazy,  dull-looking  morning,  but  as  calm  as  it 
possibly  could  be.  At  half  past  eight  o'clock  we 
got  into  our  barge,  with  Miss  Kerr  and  Lord 
Spencer,  and  proceeded  without  any  standard  to 
the  little  harbor  below  St.  MicJiaeVs  Mount.  Be- 
hind St.  MicJiaeVs  Mount  is  the  little  town  oiMa- 
razion,  or  "  Market  Jew,"  which  is  supposed  to 
have  taken  its  name  from  the  Jews  having  in  for- 
mer times  trafficked  there.  We  disembarked,  and 
walked  up  ih-eMonnt  by  a  circuitous  rugged  path, 
over  rocks  and  turf,  and  entered  the  old  castle, 
which  is  beautifully  kept,  and  must  be  a  nice 
house  to  li\o  in,  as  there  are  so  many  good  rooms 
in  it.    The  dining-room,  made  out  of  the  refectory, 


Life  ill  the  IlirjUlands. 


276 


is  very  pretty :  it  is  surrounded  by  a  frieze  repre- 
senting ancient  hunting.  The  chapel  is  excess- 
ively curious.  The  organ  is  much  famed :  Albert 
played  a  little  on  it,  and  it  soanded  very  fine.  Be- 
low the  chapel  is  a  dungeon,  where  some  years 
ago  was  discovered  the  skeleton  of  a  large  man 
without  a  coffin :  the  entrance  is  in  the  floor  of 
one  of  the  pews.  Albert  went  down  with  Lord 
Spencer,  and  afterward  went  up  with  him  and  Sir 
James  Clark  (who,  with  Lord  Palmerstou  and  Col- 
onel Grrey,  had  joined  us)  to  the  tower,  on  the  top 
of  Avhich  is  "  St.  Michael's  chair,"  which,  it  is  said, 
betrothed  couple  run  up  to,  and  whoever  gets  first 
into  the  chair  will  have  at  home  the  government 
of  the  house;  and  the  old  housekeeper — a  nice, 
tidy  old  woman — said  many  a  couple  "does  go 
there !"  though  Albert  and  Lord  Spencer  said  it 
was  the  awkwardest  place  possible  to  get  at.  St. 
MichaeVs  Mount  belongs  to  Sir  J.  St.  Aubyn. 
There  were  several  drawings  there  of  Mont  St. 
Micliael  in  Normandy^  which  is  very  like  this  one, 
and  Avas,  I  believe,  inhabited  by  the  same  order 
of  monks  as  this  was,  i.  e.,  Benedictines.  We 
walked  down  again,  had  to  step  over  another  boat 
in  order  to  ge!;  into  our  barge,  as  the  tide  was  so 
very  low,  and  returned  on  board  the  yacht  before 
ten. 


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276 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


1 1 


The  view  from  the  top  of  St.  MicliaeVs  is  very 
beautiful  and  very  extensive,  but  unfortunately  it 
was  too  thick  and  hazy  to  see  it  well.  A  low 
ridge  of  sand  separates  St.  MicliaeVs  Mount  from 
Marazion  at  low  water,  and  the  sea  at  high  water. 
From  the  sand  to  the  summit  of  the  castle  is 
about  250  feet.  The  chapel  was  originally  erect- 
ed, they  say,  for  the  use  of  pilgrims  who  came 
here,  and  it  owes  its  name  to  a  tradition  of  St. 
Michael  the  Archangel  having  rested  on  the  rock. 

At  half  past  eleven  Lord  Spencer  read  on  deck 
the  short  morning  service  generally  read  at  sea, 
which  only  lasted  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes. 
The  awning  was  put  up,  and  flags  on  the  sides ; 
and  all  the  officers  and  sailors  were  there,  as  well 
as  ourselves.  A  flag  was  hoisted,  as  is  usual  when 
the  service  is  performed  on  board  ship,  and  Lord 
Spencer  read  extremely  well. 

Albert  made  a  most  beautiful  little  sketch  oiSt. 
MicliaeVs  Mount.  Soon  after  two  we  left  Mount's 
Bay.  About  four  we  came  opposite  to  some  very 
curious  serpentine  rocks,  between  MounUs  Bay 
and  Lizard  Pointy  and  we  stopped,  that  Albert 
might  land.  The  gentlemen  went  with  him.  Lord 
Spencer  soon  returned,  saying  that  Albert  was 
very  anxious  I  should  see  the  beautiful  little  cave 
in  these  serpentine  rocks ;  and  accordingly  I  got 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


277 


into  the  barge,  witli  tlie  cLildren,  and  ladies,  and 
Lord  Spencer,  and  we  rowed  to  these  rocks,  with 
their  caves  and  little  creeks.  There  were  many 
cormorants  and  sea-gulls  on  the  rocks.  We  re- 
turned again,  and  were  soon  joined  by  Albert, 
who  brought  many  fine  specimens  which  he  had 
picked  up.  The  stone  is  really  beautifully  marked 
with  red  and  green  veins. 

We  proceeded  on  our  course,  and  reached 
Fahnoiiih  before  seven.  The  fine  afternoon  was 
changed  to  a  foggy,  dull,  cold  evening.  We  have 
had  on  board  with  us,  since  we  left  Falmoutli,  Mr. 
Taylor,  mineral  agent  to  the  Duchy  of  Cornwall, 
a  very  intelligent  young  man,  married  to  a  niece 
of  Sir  Charles  Lemon's. 


Falmouth^  Monday ,  Septemher  7. 
Immediately  after  breakfast  Albert  left  me  to 
land  and  visit  some  mines.  The  corporation  of 
Penryn  were  on  board,  and  very  anxious  to  see 
"  The  Duke  of  Cornwall ;"  so  I  stepped  out  of  the 
pavilion  on  deck  with  Bertie,  and  Lord  Palmer- 
ston  told  them  that  that  was  "  The  Duke  of  Corn- 
wall," and  the  old  mayor  of.  Penryn  said  that "  he 
hoped  he  would  grow  up  a  blessing  to  his  parents 
and  to  his  country." 


!"■:  f 


278 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


A  little  before  four  o'clock  we  all  got  into  the 
barge,  with  the  two  children,  and  rowed  to  the 
**  Fairy."  We  rowed  through  a  literal  lane  of 
boats,  fall  of  people,  who  had  surrounded  the 
yacht  ever  since  early  in  the  morning,  and  pro- 
ceeded up  the  river  by  8t.  Justus  Pool,  to  the  left 
of  which  lies  Sir  C.  Lemon's  place,  and  Trefusis, 
belonging  to  Lord  Clinton.  We  went  up  the 
Truro,  which  is  beautiful — something  like  the  Ta- 
^«^,but  almost  finer,  though  not  so  bold  asPe?!- 
tillie  Castle  and  Cothele — winding  between  banks 
entirely  wooded  with  stunted  oak,  and  full  of 
numberless  creeks.  The  prettiest  are  King  liar- 
ry^s  Ferry  and  a  spot  near  Tregot/man  (Ijord  Fal- 
mouth's), where  there  is  a  beautiful  little  boat- 
house,  quite  in  the  woods,  and  on  the  river,  at  the 
the  point  where  the  Tregony  separates  from  the 
Triiro.  Albert  said  the  position  of  this  boat-house 
put  him  in  mind  of  Tell's  Chapel  in  Switzerland. 
We  went  a  little  way  up  the  Tregony,  which  is 
most  beautiful,  with  high  sloping  banks,  thickly 
wooded  down  to  the  water's  edge.  Then  we 
turned  back  and  went  up  the  Truro  to  Malpas, 
another  bend  of  the  river,  from  whence  one  can 
see  Truro,  the  capital  of  Cornxoall.  We  stopped 
here  a  while,  as  so  many  boats  came  out  from  a 
little  place  called  8io,iny  Cornier,  just  below  Tni- 


lAfe  in  the  Highlands. 


279 


ro^  in  order  to  see  us ;  indeed,  the  whole  popula- 
tion poured  out  on  foot  and  in  carts,  etc.,  along 
the  banks,  and  cheered,  and  were  enchanted  when 
Bertie  was  held  up  for  them  to  see.  It  was  a  very 
pretty,  gratifying  sight. 

We  went  straight  on  to  Swo7i  Pool,  outside 
Pendennis  Castle,  where  we  got  into  the  barge, 
and  rowed  near  to  the  shore  to  see  a  net  drawn. 
Mr.  Fox,  a  Quaker,  who  lives  at  Falmouth,  and 
has  sent  us  flowers,  fruit,  and  many  other  things, 
proposed  to  put  in  his  net  and  draw,  that  we 
might  see  all  sorts  of  flsh  caught,  but  when  it  was 
drawn  .there  was  not  one  fish !  So  we  went  back 
to  the  "Fairy."  The  water  near  the  shore  in 
Swan  Pool  is  so  wonderfully  clear  that  one  could 
count  the  pebbles. 


Tuesday,  September  8. 
A  wet  mornincv  when  we  rose  and  breakfasted 
with  the  children.  At  about  ten  o'clock  we  en- 
tered Fowey,  which  is  situated  in  a  creek  much 
like  Dartmouth,  only  not  so  beautiful,  but  still 
very  pretty.  We  got  into  the  barge  (leaving  the 
children  on  board,  and  also  Lord  Spencer,  who 
was  not  quite  well),  and  landed  at  Fowey  with 
our  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  Mr.  Taylor,  whom 
we  had  brought  with  us  from  Falmouth,    We  got 


280 


Life  in  the  IligJdands. 


into  our  carriage  witli  the  ladies,  tlie  gentlemen 
following  in  others,  and  drove  through  some  of 
the  narrowest  streets  I  ever  saw  in  Migland^  and 
up  perpendicular  hills  in  the  streets — it  really 
quite  alarmed  one ;  but  we  got  up  and  through 
them  quite  safely.  We  then  drove  on  for  a  long 
way  on  bad  and  narrow  roads,  higher  and  higher 
up,  comm.anding  a  fine  and  very  extensive  view 
of  the  very  hilly  country  of  Cornwall^  its  hills 
covered  with  fields,  and  intersected  by  hedges. 
At  last  we  came  to  one  field  where  there  was  no 
road  whatever;  but  we  went  d^wn  the  hill  quite 
safely,  and  got  out  of  the  carriage  at  the  top  of 
another,  where,  surrounded  by  woods,  stands  a 
circular  ruin,  covered  with  ivy,  of  the  old  castle 
of  Restormel,  belonging  to  the  Duchy  of  Corn- 
wall, and  in  which  the  last  Earl  of  Cornwall  lived 
in  the  thirteenth  century.  It  was  very  pictur- 
esque from  this  point. 

We  visited  here  the  Restormel  mine,  belonging 
also  to  the  Duchy  of  Cornwall.  It 
is  an  iron  mine,  and  you  go  in  on 
a  level.  Albert  and  I  got  into  one 
of  the  trucks  and  were  dragged  in 
by  miners,  Mr.  Taylor  walking  be- 
hind us.  The  miners  wear  a  curious 
woolen  dress,  with  a  cap  like  this : 


Lij^  in  the  Highlands. 


281 


of 


and  tlie  dress  tLus : 
and  they  generally 
have  a  candlestick 
in  front  of  the  cap. 
This  time  the  candle- 


sticks were  stuck 
along  the  sides  of 
the  mine,  and  those 
who  did  not  drag 
or  push  the  truvik 


carried  lights.  Albert  and  the  gentlemen  wore 
miners'  hats.  There  was  no  room  for  any  one  to 
pass  between  the  trucks  and  the  rock,  and  only 
just  room  enough  to  hold  up  one's  head,  and  not 
always  that.  It  had  a  most  curious  effect,  and 
there  was  something  uneart/hly  about  this  lit-up 
cavern-like  place.  We  got  out  and  scrambled  a 
little  way  to  see  the  veins  of  ore,  and  Albert 
knocked  off  some  pieces;  but,  in  general,  it  is 
blown  by  gunj)owder,  being  so  hard.  The  miners 
seemed  so  pleased  at  seeing  us,  and  are  intelligent, 
good  people.  It  was  quite  dazzling  when  we 
came  into  daylight  again. 

We  then  got  into  our  carriage  and  passed 
through  the  small  town  of  Lostwithielj  where  an 
address  was  presented  to  us,  and  then  we  passed 
through  Mr.  Agar  Eobarts's  Park,  which  reminded 
one  of  Cothele.  We  returned  by  the  same  road 
till  near  Fowey,  when  we  went  through  some  of 
the  narrowest  lanes  I  almost  ever  drove  through, 
and  so  fearfully  stony.  We  drove  along  high 
above  the  river  to  Place^  belonging  to  Mr.  Treffry, 


282 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


which  has  been  restored  according  to  drawings  in 
his  possession,  representing  the  house  as  it  was  in 
former  times,  A  lady  of  that  name  defended  the 
house  against  the  French  duiing  the  absence  of 
her  husband,  in  the  fourteenth  or  fifteenth  cen- 
tury. The  old  gentleman  showed  us  all  over  the 
house,  and  into  an  unfinished  hall,  lined  with  mar- 
ble and  porph}Ty,  all  of  which  came  from  Corn- 
wall. We  then  walked  down  to  the  place  of  em- 
barkation and  proceeded  at  once  to  the  yacht. 
Mr.  Taylor  deserved  the  greatest  credit  for  all  the 
arrangements.  Re  and  his  father  are  what  are 
called  "Adventurers"  of  the  mine. 


Osborne,  Wednesday,  September  9. 
We  got  up  about  seven  o'clock  and  found  we 
had  just  passed  The  Needles, 


Visit  to  the  Lakes  of  Killaeney. 


Tuesday,  Aiigust  27, 1861. 
At  eleven  o'clock  we  all  started  in  our  own  so- 
ciable, and  another  of  our  carriages,  and  on  ponies, 


Life  in  the  Iligldands, 


283 


for  Ross  Castle,  the  old  ruin  which  was  a  celebra- 
ted strong-hold,  and  from  which  the  Kenmrre  fam- 
ily take  their  Lame.  Here  there  was  an  immense 
crowd  and  a  great  many  "boats.  We  got  into  a 
very  handsome  barg<i  of  eight  oars — beautifully 
rowed — Lord  Castlerosse  steering.  The  four  chil- 
dren, and  Lady  Churchill,  Lady  Castlerosse,  and 
Lord  Granville  were  with  us. 

We  rowed  first  round  Innisf alien  Island  and 
some  way  up  the  Lower  Lahe.  The  view  was 
magnificent.  We  had  a  slight  shower,  which 
alarmed  us  all,  from  the  mist  which  overhung  the 
mountains ;  but  it  suddenly  cleared  away,  and  be- 
came very  fine  and  very  hot.  At  a  quarter  to  one 
we  landed  at  the  foot  of  the  beautiful  hill  of  Glena, 
where  on  a  small  sloping  lawn  there  is  a  very 
pretty  little  cottage.  We  walked  about,  though 
it  was  overpoweringly  hot,  to  see  some  of  the 
splendid  views.  The  trees  are  beautiful — oak, 
birch,  arbutus,  holly,  yew — all  growing  down  to 
the  water's  edge,  intermixed  with  heather.  The 
hills,  rising  abruptly  from  the  lake,  are  completely 
wooded,  which  gives  them  a  different  character  to 
those  in  Scotland,  though  they  often  reminded  me 
of  the  dear  Higlilands.  We  returned  to  the  little 
cottage,  where  the  quantity  of  midges  and  the 
smell  of  peat  made  us  think  oi  Alt-na-Giutliasaclu 


284 


Life,  in  the  Hifflilands. 


Up  stairs,  from  Lady  Castlerosse's  little  room,  the 
view  was  toward  a  part  of  the  Lotver  Lahe,  the 
outline  of  which  is  rather  low.  We  lunched,  and 
afterward  re-embarked,  and  then  took  that  most 
beautiful  row  up  the  rapid,  under  the  Old  Weir 
Bridge^  through  the  channel  which  connects  the 
two  lakes,  and  which  is  very  intricate  and  narrow. 
Close  to  our  right,  as  we  were  going,  we  stopped 
under  the  splendid  hill  of  the  Fagle^s  Nest  to  hear 
the  echo  of  a  bugle,  the  sound  of  which,  though 
blown  near  by,  was  not  heard.  We  had  to  get 
out  near  the  Weir  Bridge  to  let  the  empty  boats 
be  pulled  up  by  the  men.  The  sun  had  come  out 
and  lit  up  the  really  magnificent  scenery  splen- 
didly, but  it  was  most  oppressively  hot.  We 
wound  along  till  we  entered  the  TIp'per  Lake^ 
which  opened  upon  us  with  all  its  high  hills — the 
highest.  The  Beeks^  3400  feet  high — and  its  islands 
and  points  covered  with  splendid  trees — such  ar- 
butus (quite  large  trees),  with  yews,  making  a 
beautiful  foreground.  We  turned  into  a  small 
bay  or  creek,  where  we  got  out  and  walked  a  short 
way  in  the  shade,  and  up  to  where  a  tent  was 
placed,  just  opposite  a  waterfall  called  Z>^?T2/(?ortO- 
cliy^  a  lovely  spot,  but  terribly  infested  by  midges. 
In  this  tent  was  tea,  fruit,  ice,  cakes,  and  every 
thing  most  tastefully  arranged.    We  just  took 


Life  in  the  Highlands. 


285 


)m,  the 

Jce,  the 

id,  and 

b  most 

I  Weir 

its  the 

arrow. 

:opped 

'o  hear 

hough 

to  get 

boats 

ne  out 

splen- 

We 

Lake^ 

— the 

lands 

eh  ar- 

ing  a 

small 

short 

:  was 

\lcono- 

idges. 

every 

took 


some  tea,  which  was  very  refreshing  in  the  great 
heat  of  this  relaxing  climate.  The  vegetation  is 
quite  that  of  a  jungle — ferns  of  all  kinds,  and 
shrubs  and  trees — all  springing  up  luxuriantly. 
We  entered  our  boats  and  w^ent  back  the  same 
way  we  came,  admiring  greatly  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery,  and  this  time  went  down  the  rapids  in 
the  boat.  No  boats  except  our  own  had  followed 
us  beyond  the  rapids,  but  below  them  there  were 
a  great  many,  and  the  scene  was  very  animated, 
and  the  people  very  noisy  and  enthusiastic.  The 
Irish  always  give  that  peculiar  shrill  shriek,  im- 
like  any  thing  one  ever  hears  any  where  else. 


Wednesday.,  August  28. 
At  a  quarter  past  eleven  we  started  on  a  most 
beautiful  drive,  of  which  I  annex  the  route.     We 
drove  with  Mrs.  Herbert  and  Bertie  in  our  socia- 
ble, driven  from  the  box  by  Wagland;*    and, 

*  My  coachman  since  1857 ;  and  a  good,  zealous  servant. 
He  entered  the  Royal  service  in  1831,  and  rode  as  postillion 
for  seventeen  years.  His  father  has  been  thirty-two  years 
porter  in  the  Royal  Mews  at  Windsor,  and  is  now  seventy- 
five  years  old;  and  has  been  sixty  years  in  the  service. 
His  grandfather  was  also  in  the  Royal  service,  having  en- 
tered it  in  1788;  and  his  daughter  is  nursery-maid  to  the 


286 


Life  in  tlie  Hiyhlands. 


though  the  highest  mountains  were  unfortunately 
occasionally  enveloped  in  mist,  and  we  had  slight 
showers,  we  were  enchanted  with  the  extreme 
beauty  of  the  scenery .  The  peeps  of  the  lake ; 
the  splendid  woods  full  of  the  most  magnificent 
arbutus,  which  in  one  place  form,  for  a  few  yards, 
an  avenue  under  which  you  drive,  with,  the  rocks, 
which  are  very  peculiar,  all  made  it  one  of  the 
finest  drives  we  had  e\er  taken.  Turning  up  by 
the  village  and  going  round,  the  Tore  mountain 
reminded,  us  of  Scotland — of  the  woods  above 
Ahergeldiej  of  Craig  Daign  ond  Craig  Climie.  It 
was  so  fine.  We  got  out  at  the  top  of  the  Toro 
Waterfall  and  walked  down  to  the  foot  of  it.  We 
came  home  at  half  past  one.  At  four  we  started 
for  the  boats,  quite  close  by.  The  Micchross  Lake 
is  extremely  beautiful;  at  the  beginning  of  our 
expedition  it  looked  dark  and  severe  in  the  mist 
and  showers  which  kept  coming  on,  just  as  it  does 
in  the  Highlands.  Mr.  Herbert  steered.  Our 
girls,  Mrs.  Herbert,  Lady  Churchill,  and  Lord 
Granville  were  in  the  boat  with  us.  The  two 
boys  went  in  a  boat  rowed  by  gentlemen,  and  the 
rest  in  two  other  boats.  At  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Her- 
bert's request  I  christened  one  of  the  points  which 

Prince  of  Wales's  children.     Four  generations,  therefore, 
have  served  the  Royal  Family. 


Life  in  the  Iligldands. 


287 


runs  into  tlie  lake  with  a  bottle  of  wine,  Albert 
holding  my  arm  when  we  came  close  by,  so  that 
it  was  most  successfully  smashed. 

When  we  emerged  from  under  Brickeen  Bridge 
we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  Lower  Lake  and  of  the 
scenery  of  yesterday,  which  rather  puzzled  me, 
seeing  it  from  another  j^o/zi^  de  vue.  At  Benson^ 8 
Point  we  stopped  for  some  time,  merely  rowing 
about  backward  and  forward,  or  remaining  sta- 
tionary, watching  for  the  deer  (all  this  is  a  deer 
forest  as  well  as  at  Glenci)^  which  we  expected  the 
dogs  would  find  and  bring  down  into  the  water. 
But  in  vain :  we  waited  till  past  six,  and  no  deer 
came.  The  evening  had  completely  cleared  and 
became  quite  beautiful ;  and  the  effect  of  the 
numbers  of  boats  full  of  people,  many  with  little 
flags,  rowing  about  in  every  direction  and  cheer- 
ing and  shouting,  lit  up  by  the  evening  light,  ^'  as 
charming.  At  Darby's  Garden  the  shore  was 
densely  crowded,  and  many  of  the  women  in  their 
blue  cloaks  waded  into  the  river,  holding  their 
clothes  up  to  their  knees. 

We  were  home  by  seven  o'clock,  having  again 
a  slight  sprinkling  of  rain. 


THE    END. 


FtanJilin  Square,  Ne'v  York,  February,  1S68. 


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David,  the  King  of  Israel  :  A  Portrait  drawn  from  Bible 
History  and  the  Book  of  Psalms.  By  Frederick  Wil- 
liam Krummacher,  D.D.,  Author  of  "Elijah  the  Tish- 
bite,"&c.  Translated  under  the  express  Sanction  of  the 
Author  by  the  Rev.  M.  G.  Easton,  M.A.  With  a  Letter 
from  Dr.  Krummacher  to  his  American  readers.  12 mo, 
Cloth,  $1  75. 

In  such  a  field  Dr.  Krnmmacher's  well-known  powers  of  description,  his  chaste 
fancy,  his  well-balanced  judgment,  and  enlightened  pi''iy  were  sure  to  flrd  full 
scope  ;  nor  have  oiir  anticipations  been  disappointed.  In  these  pages  David  passes 
before  us  in  the  various  phases  of  his  character  as  shepherd,  psalmist,  warrior,  and 
monarch.  There  is  no  attempt  at  originality  of  view,  no  prosy  solution  of  diffi- 
culties, no  controversial  sparring ;  the  ni.rrative  flows  on  like  a  well-told  story, 
and  the  art  of  the  writer  lies  in  the  ant  selection  of  salient  pohits,  and  in  the  natu- 
ralness of  his  reflections.  A  tone  or  spirituality  is  imparted  to  the  narrative  by 
linking  it  to  the  Book  of  Psalms. — lirittsh  and  Foreign  Evangelical  Review. 

A  lilelike  picture  of  the  prophet-king  and  hia  timGe.—Evawjelical  Christendom. 


4         New  Boohs  published  by  Harper  6*  Brothers. 

The  Lovers^  Dictionary. 

A  Poetical  Treasury  of  Lovers'  Thoughts,  Fancies,  Ad- 
dresses, and  Dilemmas.  Indexed  with  nearly  Ten  Thou- 
sand References  as  a  Dictionary  of  Compliments  and 
Guide  to  the  Study  of  the  Tender  Science.  Post  8vo, 
Cloth,  $3  50  j  Gilt  Edges,  $4  25. 

A  very  happily-chosen  and  namerous  collection  of  love  poems  from  all  authors, 
but  so  arranged  that  lovers  can  make  it  a  lexicon  of  compliments  if  they  wish. 
In  these  700  pages  what  lover  can  not  find  the  wherewith  to  express  his  passion  f 
Who  shall  go  away  unsatisfied,  saying  there  is  not  enough  t  It  is  the  treasury 
of  lovers  for  thoughts,  fancies,  addresses,  and  dilemmas,  and  as  such  will  he 
eagerly  welcomed  and  much  used  by  them. — Springfield  Republican. 

The  volume  has  evidently  been  eclited  with  great  care,  the  comprehensive  index 
alone  implying  a  great  deal  of  intelligent  labor.— fio«ton  Transcript. 

This  book  maybe  termed  unique.  We  have  seen  few  collections  of  the  poetry 
of  the  affections  so  well  prepared  for  instantaneous  reference.  The  "Dictionary" 
portion  is  a  veritable  novelty,  and  we  can  well  suppose  it  will  be  studiously  con- 
sulted by  that  happy-unhappy,  that  blest-unblest  class,  for  whom  it  is  especially 
compiled. — Philadelphia  Post. 

A  choice  winnowing  of  the  pure  and  beautiful  in  love-writing.— 2\r.  Y,  Evening 
Oazette. 

No  other  collection  draws  together  so  much  of  the  poetry  of  the  affections,  so 
admirably  adapted  for  instant  reference. — Brooklyn  Times. 

It  must  become  the  lovers'  vade  mecum,  and  courtships  henceforth  will  doubtless 
be  far  more  poetical  and  romantic,  under  the  influence  of  this  Dictionary.— £o«ton 
Commercial. 

Selected  with  considerable  taste  and  judgment,  and  there  is  not  a  verse  in  the 
entire  collection  that  can  offend  the  severest  tsate.— Philadelphia  Inquirer. 

Bench  and  Bar. 

A  complete  Digest  of  the  Wit,  Humor,  Asperities,  and 
Amenities  of  the  Law.  By  L.  J.  Bigelow.  With  nu- 
merous Portraits  of  Distinguished  Judges  and  Advocates. 
New  Edition.     Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $i  50. 

This  compilation  of  legal  anecdotes  is  the  most  complete  work  of  the  kind  that 
has  been  published. 

It  includes  not  only  nearly  all  the  material  in  Jkatfekson's  "Book  aboct  Law- 
YEUS,"  recently  published  in  England,  hut  contains  large  American  additions. 

As  a  collection  of  legal  wit,  wisdom,  adventure,  humor,  puns,  and  remarkable 
incidents  connected  with  the  great  legal  minds  of  England  and  America,  it  is  of 
great  interest  to  the  lawyer,  and  affords  a  vast  fund  of  amusement  to  readers  of 
every  class. 


Wood^s  Physical  Exercises, 

Manual  of  Physical  Exercises  :  Comprising  Gymnastics, 
Rowing,  Skating,  Fencing,  Cricket,  Calisthenics,  Sailing, 
Swimming,  Sparring,  and  Base  Ball ;  together  with  Rules 
for  Training  and  Sanitary  Suggestions.  By  William 
Wood,  Instructor  in  Physical  Education.  With  125  Il- 
lustrations.   New  Edition.     i2mo.  Cloth,  $1  50. 


|stics, 
iling, 
Lules 

ILIAM 

5  II- 


New  Books  published  by  Harper  &»  Brothers.  5 

Du  Chaillus  Gorilla  Country, 

Stories  of  the  Gorilla  Country  :  Narrated  for  Young 
People.  By  Paul  B.  Du  Chaillu,  Author  of  "  Discov- 
eries in  Equatorial  Africa."  Profusely  Illustrated.  1 2mo, 
Cloth. 

It  would  be  hard  to  find  a  more  interesting  book  for  bojs  than  this.— I>(mdon 
Timee. 

Mace's  Fairy  Book, 

Home  Fairy  Tales  (Contes  du  Petit-Chdteau).  By  Jean 
Mace,  Author  of  "  The  Servants  of  the  Stomach,"  &c. 
Translated  by  Mary  L.  Booth,  Translator  of  "  Martin's 
History  of  France,"  "  Laboulaye's  Fairy  Book,"  &c.,  &c. 
Beautifully  Illustrated.      i2mo,  Cloth,  Beveled  Edges, 

$1  75. 

Tlie  stories  are  singularly  orlpinal,  and  unlike  any  thing  ever  before  clothed  in 
Eiigllsh  Avem.— Sunday  School  Tivus. 

Each  of  the  stories  is  unique  and  interesting,  and  with  a  moral  that  is  not  hard 
to  take. — Commercial  Advertiaer. 

In  these  grotesque  and  unique  stories  Mac6  has  combined  fun,  feeling,  and  wis- 
dom in  a  manner  to  make  them  very  charming.— CongreoationalM. 

Our  young  friends  are  again  indebted  to  Miss  Booth  for  a  rich  treat ;  and  we 
think  that  all  of  them  who  were  so  fortunate  as  to  get  a  taste  of  such  fairy  tales  as 
Frenchmen  tell,  through  her  translation  of  Laboulaye's  Fairy  Book,  which  ap- 
peared about  a  year  ago,  will  be  eager  to  devour  this  "later  volume  of  similar  sto- 
ries from  the  same  land.  Nor  will  they  be  at  all  disappointed,  how>  jr  high  their 
expectations ;  for  it  is  among  the  most  entertaining  of  all  books  of  its  kind. 
Mac6  is  one  of  the  moat  popular  writers  in  France  for  children ;  and  his  stories 
are  all  of  good  fairies ;  while  each  tale  convevs  a  sound  and  wholesome  moral,  in- 
culcated so  ingeniously  yet  naturally  that  it  can  scarcely  fall  of  its  aim.— Globe 
(Washington,  6.  C). 

Models  of  simplicity  and  good  t&Bte.—Philrtdelphia  City  Item. 

The  stories  are  such  as  children  ^vill  drink  in  breathlessly.— iJownd  Tahk. 

There  is  a  peculiar  charm  about  the  way  in  which  these  stories  are  written, 
which  can  not  fail  to  attract. — Army  and  Navy  Journal. 

Well  calculated  to  charm  and  instruct  the  young.— ^aUimore  Post. 

M^'Clintock  and  Strongs  Cyclopcsdia, 

The  First  Volume  of  a  New  Cyclopaedia  of  Biblical, 
Theological,  and  Ecclesiastical  Literature.  By  Rev. 
John  M'Clintock,  D.D.,  and  James  Strong,  S.T.D. 
With  Maps  and  Numerous  Illustrations.  To  be  com- 
pleted in  about  Six  Volumes,  Royal  8vo,  of  about  One 
Thousand  I'ages  each.  Vol.  I.,  coinprisin«:  the  Letters 
A  and  B,  is  now  ready.  '^Jlie  remaining  \'olumes  are 
in  rapid  progress,  and  will  appear  at  short  intervals. 
Price  per  Volume,  Cloth,  ^5  00 ;  Sheep,  $6  00 ;  Half 
Morocco,  ^8  00. 


6  New  Books  published  by  Harper  6^  Brothers. 

Barnes  s  Evidences  of  Christianity. 

Lectures  on  the  Evidences  of  Christianity  in  the  Nine- 
teenth Century.  Delivered  in  the  Mercer  Street  Church, 
New  York,  January  21  to  February  21,  1867.  On  the 
"  Ely  Foundation"  of  the  Union  Theological  Seminary. 
By  Albep T  Barnes,  Author  of  "  Notes  on  the  New  Testa- 
ment," &c.    i2mo,  Morocco  Cloth,  Beveled  Edges,  $1  75. 

We  do  not  believe  there  is  a  treatise  in  the  English  tongue  which  goes  more 
thoroughly  into  foundation  principles  on  the  subject  of  the  evidences,  and  at  the 
same  time  handling  them  with  such  inviting  perspicuity.— ^merwari  Presbxjtcrian 
(Philadelphia). 

It  is  one  of  the  earlier  installments  of  that  Christian  literature  that  will  yet  be 
forthcoming  to  answer  and  explode  the  scientific  skepticism  of  the  age.— AYtebwrf/ 
Chriatmn  Advocat^e. 

The  style  is  dignified,  the  arguments  are  conclusive,  and  the  book  is  an  armory 
of  defense  against  the  skepticism  and  philosophy  of  the  present  day. — Protestant 
Churchman. 

He  carries  on  the  discussion  with  his  accustomed  vigor  and  sobriety  of  state- 
ment, and  with  an  affluence  of  leixrning  and  knovledge  that  will  make  his  book  a 
valuable  mine  for  younger  clergymen. — &'.  S.  Times. 

Will  deservedly  attract  attention,  both  from  the  well-earned  fame  of  their  author, 
and  from  the  peculiar  tone  which  is  given  to  the  discussion  by  the  fact  that  the 
subject  is  treated  with  reference  to  the  special  demands  of  the  present  time.— 
Congregatvmalist. 

The  Land  of  Thor. 

By  J.  Ross  Browne,  Author  of  "Yusef,"  "Crusoe's  Isl- 
and," "  An  American  Family  in  Germany,"  &c.  Illus- 
trated by  the  Author.     i2mo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

Mr.  J.  Ross  Browne  is  a  li^'ely,  off-handed  American,  with  quick  eyes,  good  legs, 
and  a  ready  sense  of  fun,  that  he  can  express  fairly  in  words  and  more"  perfectly 
in  pictures.  In  this  book  he  first  lands  at  St.  Petersburg,  with  his  knapsack  on 
his  back  and  a  hundred  dollars ;  and  after  giving  about  half  his  volume  to  talk 
of  the  Russians,  illustrated  by  many  clever  and  amusing  woodcuts,  he  proceeds 
to  Scandinavia,  shows  ns  something  of  Sweden  and  Norway,  illustrated  still  with 
good  sketches,  some  of  scenery  and  more  of  character  seen  from  its  comic  side, 
looks  at  Copenhagen,  and  goes  also  to  Iceland.  It  is  thoroughly  entertaining,  and 
its  clever  woodcuts  are  picturesque  and  comic— Lo/K^on  Examiner. 

Agnes  Strickland's  Queens  of  England. 

Lives  of  the  Queens  of  England.  From  the  Norman 
Conquest.  By  Agnes  Strickland,  Author  of  "  Lives 
of  the  Queens  of  Scotland."  Abridged  by  the  Author. 
Revised  and  Edited  by  Caroline  G.  Parker.  i2mo, 
Cloth,  $2  00.     (Uniform  with  the  Student^ s  Histories.) 

Miss  Strickland  has,  with  great  care  !vnd  fidelity,  prepared  this  edition  of  her 
Lives  of  the  Queens  of  England  for  the  use  of  families  and  schools.  The  condensa- 
tion of  her  great  work  on  England's  queens  is  admirably  done  ;  and  while  it  is 
invaluable  to  youth,  it  will  be  found  a  useful  book  for  any  library,  offering  a  ready 
reference  to  facta,  dates,  &c.,  iu  the  lives  of  the  British  queens.— Z/»(/al  Intelligencer. 


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